Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[CherryRed]

There is this one too Rosi, just not a full as the one Lady Day posted.

 

[humblestumble]

I just got a set of presser feet in the mail and I love love LOVE them! I can't believe I've gone a year without them I especially love my walking foot. How many of you use multiple presser feet?

Also, I thought I'd let you guys know about my sewing blog. It's got tutorials and tips on it. It's my learning journey, and I'm trying to get the word out to help others who are beginners or even intermediates like myself so that they can get help if they can't afford to buy stuff to learn. Let me know what you think, I'm trying to improve http://diysewright.blogspot.com

 

[Honey Doll]

I've decided that I have to make myself a pair of the Simplicity 3322 high-waisted trousers from Eva Dress
The thing is that I'm a vintage size 16 and the pattern is 18!
I have a vaaague idea that a few of you ladies have made these trousers - could you please give some advice on how to alter these down a size? Should I just cut them 2 inches smaller all over or just around the waist- and hipline?
Would it be very difficult for someone who isn't experienced in pattern alteration?

Merci bien!

I would probably cut the pants a 1/2 inch smaller on the outer seam side. That would drop the waist by 2 inches (4 pant pieces x 1/2). If the hip measurement of the pattern needs to be brought similarly in you could do the same on the outer seam side.

When you have them together, try them on, adjust the fit by bringing the seam either in or out as necessary and then cut the waistband pieces to fit after you are satisfied with the fit of the pants.

This shouldn't be hard.

I haven't tried that pattern, but have done done one by Advance from the late 30s. The fit is fairly loose in the hip and the rise is quite low by modern comparison.

Honey Doll

 

[Lady Day]

I've decided that I have to make myself a pair of the Simplicity 3322 high-waisted trousers from Eva Dress
The thing is that I'm a vintage size 16 and the pattern is 18!
I have a vaaague idea that a few of you ladies have made these trousers - could you please give some advice on how to alter these down a size? Should I just cut them 2 inches smaller all over or just around the waist- and hipline?
Would it be very difficult for someone who isn't experienced in pattern alteration?

Merci bien!

The biggest area I would worry about is around the waist. Make sure your body measurements are on around that. All the rest (hips, thighs, lenght) are easily adjustable by a bit of taking in at the seam.

Good luck.
LD

 

[Lauren]

Sorry, guilty of cross posting on this, but it's applicable to ALL patterns, not only vintage vogues so I thought I'd repost

Here's how to take into account commercial pattern company ease in reference to the size you want your pattern to be
The ease on the Vintage Vogue I was using was 3.5" all around- which makes the fit significantly off for vintage wear. I suggest for a vintage fit in a dress that you have at least 1" of ease in the bust, fitted at the waist, and up to 2" in the hips for sitting and standing and whatnot- because it does you no good to make a dress to perfection then not be able to move in it. Here's what I did and you can do it for others if you're going to be making it from someone else:

Take 5 essential measurements:

*Bust
*Waist
*Hips
*Front waist (length from center front neck to the natural waistline (the smallest part of the waist). IF you need help with this, tie a piece of string around your waist and measure from the center of the bottom of your neck where that little "v" is to the string.
*Back waist- from center back neck to the waist.

Write these all down and keep them handy. When you go to buy a pattern buy it in the size that matches the three essential measurements.

When you get the pattern open it all up and grab a ruler and a calculator or a scrap of paper.

Measure across the bust of the dress taking into account any design , darts, or cutting, and the seam allowance (I believe it is 5/8" on these patterns) If there are multiple pieces and the dress has a lining, it will most likely be the most basic shape of the garment so measure across that instead of the design pieces.

Measure across bust, skipping over darts. Subtract 5/8" for seam allowance if it's on the fold. if it has a center seam subtract another 5/8".

Multiply x2. Write this number down.

Do the same with the back piece.

Add front measurement to back measurement and this is the finished garment bust measure.

Do the same for the waist (don't forget to skip over any darts and pleating) and the skirt. If the skirt has multiple pieces add the top measure of each piece then subtract 5/8" for each seam.

You should have your measurements now of the finished garment. If this is too big you know to cut a smaller size. If it's too small you know to go up a size. Do the same measureing for the other sizes to make sure you're not making it too big or too small. Use the one that matches your biggest measurement the best PLUS ease you desire.

Take your center front and center back measure and measure from the pattern from the top to the waistline of the pattern (this should be marked and if it's not it's the smallest width across the waist when you skip over the darts). Add or take away what you need to to match your measurements. There should be a part of the pattern marked *shorten or lengthen here*. That's where you do it. I take an invisible ruler, draw a line the width I need to take it in, then fold and pin mine. If you need to add, draw a line with an invisible ruler on a scrap piece of paper the width you need, slash your pattern on the line, and insert the scrap underneath, taping the pattern to the added inches.

I did this with the vintage Vogue and found them at least 1 size bigger. You may want to do it yourself. It will cut your fitting time in half, guaranteed, if you do it correctly

 

[K by the bay]

Wool shrinkage

Hello all. I'm thinking of doing some projects with wool. Does it shrink if you wash it in cold water but dont put it in the dryer? Supposing I washed a wool jacket in size large, would it shrink to a size medium? Thanks for any advice.

 

[Lauren]

I never wash wool as a rule- it's too risky I think. I always send mine out to be dry cleaned because I shrunk one of my favorite sweaters ever by throwing it in the wash. This site says that products labeled as such can be machine washed, but frankly I've never seen a label like that. But the site also has great info on why wool actually shrinks, so you may want to check it out
http://www.pp-t.co.uk/INFO pages/Archive/Washablewool.htm

 

[K by the bay]

Thanks, Lauren. I was actually thinking of getting a cheap wool jacket, like a man's suit jacket or something,(nothing vintage, don't worry),and washing it. I just don't know how much it would shrink. If I should get an extra large and expect it to turn into a size small or what, you know. I'll let you all know what happens if I try it. Just have to decide what size to get.

 

[Lauren]

I've always wondered myself what would happen in that case. Maybe try it with a $5 thrift store jacket first. The thing that is tough is that men's jackets have all this interlining and shoulderpads and layers women's jackets don't usually have- plus lining. I'm just afraid the wool on the outside would shrink and all the "guts" if you will, won't! Putting it to test on a cheap jacket may help with the experiment.

Why do guys get all the cool jackets, anyways? They always use the best wools and we get stuck with the polyesters! lol

 

[Lady Day]

Well...I machine wash ALL my wool.

Thus far, ive never had any prob with it shrinking, but I wash it on a delicate cycle and do a bit of reshaping and hang it to dry. I also (if its a wool sweater) continue to re shape it as it drys.

I did just make a swing coat out of a vintage wool, and when the time comes, I havend decided on how Im gonna clean it.

LD

 

[Lauren]

Really?! Even things you've bought?! I think I need to be shown the ways. I hate going to the dry cleaners!

 

[Elaina]

I on the other hand wash mine by hand in the tub, with cool water, hang them on a vintage swearter dryer (something that hangs from the ceiling, and you can then lie flat) the reblock back into shape.

Elaina

 

[Rosie]

I am sewing this dress:

I'm almost complete, just have to hem it and sew on bias tape. I'm wondering, can I sew a half crinoline in back to make it puff out the way it does in the drawing? I know dresses won't look *exactly* like the sketch, but I'd like a little poofiness.

 

[ShrinkingViolet]

Thanks a lot for the trouser resizing advice everybody!

I actually e-mailed the lovely lady at Eva Dress asking her the same question, and can you believe it, she was so helpful and offered to draw in lines on the actual pattern showing me where to adjust the width. That's what I call service.
I'm going to make them in some wool gabardine that's been sitting in my mom's closet since the 1970's - I hope they turn out nice
( and that I manage to finish them before Spring )!

 

[Lady Day]

I'm wondering, can I sew a half crinoline in back to make it puff out the way it does in the drawing? I know dresses won't look *exactly* like the sketch, but I'd like a little poofiness.

I dont see why not. Id be careful of a large gather at the waist tho. I dont have a crinoline, I bought some of those horrid bohemian skirts that were all the rage on clearence. 100% cotton, and poofy enought to do the job.

 

[Rosie]

Thanks LD. I think I'm going to extend the crinoline from some silk as to eliminate a lot of waist gathering.

 

[BettyValentine]

About Pleating:

Back when I was working in theater we used to send yardage off to the pleaters. It would come back nicely pleated in paper, and we'd sew it where it was supposed to go. (I'm pretty sure we'd hem the yardage before shipping it off.) I swear we sent it off to a place called American Pleaters, but I might just be confusing it with American Feathers, which supplied us wih feathers, or American Medical Supplies, which supplied us with medical foam. (Companies are not so creatively named these days.)

However, now that I am looking for pleaters, I find only places wanting to sell me expensive little machines for pleating stuff myself. Does anyone know a good pleater for me to send things to?

Thanks,
B

 

[Honey Doll]

Have you tried heirloom sewing shops

About Pleating:

Back when I was working in theater we used to send yardage off to the pleaters. It would come back nicely pleated in paper, and we'd sew it where it was supposed to go. (I'm pretty sure we'd hem the yardage before shipping it off.) I swear we sent it off to a place called American Pleaters, but I might just be confusing it with American Feathers, which supplied us wih feathers, or American Medical Supplies, which supplied us with medical foam. (Companies are not so creatively named these days.)

However, now that I am looking for pleaters, I find only places wanting to sell me expensive little machines for pleating stuff myself. Does anyone know a good pleater for me to send things to?

Thanks,
B

I'm not sure how much fabric you are looking to pleat, but alot of heirloom sewing shops will offer the service. Try http://www.marthasheirlooms.com/

If you are looking to place large orders they may be able to direct you elsewhere

Honey Doll

 

[Rosie]

I never sew from pattern. I just bought the Simplicity 4047 so that I can make the swing coat I've been going on and on about and what the heck is all of this stuff?! I'm so dumb, I have no idea what the instructions are saying, I'm freaked out. The instructions just go on and on and on. I don't normally give up so easily but, I'm very tempted in this case. Help!

 

[Lady Day]

1) Does the pattern have a 'level of difficulty' type of saying on it, such as 'Easy to Sew' or something like that? Some patterns will tell you the difficulty level somewhere in the pattern instructions.

2) Get the first sheet that shows you how the pattern is to be laid out on the fabric. Now, depending on your yardage (see description in pattern layout), your layout will vary. I always over buy fabric, and never pay attention to the layout cause I generally seem to find a way to lay it out fairly efficently.

3)MAKE SURE YOU FOLD THE FABRIC IN HALF! Either the 'right' side of the fabric touching, or facing out. If you have two pieces of fabric laid on top of one another, you might end up with two right or left sides of something, um not like I would know of that myself

4) Check patterns to see how many pieces of something you need. Two, four, six? I tend to cut my largest pieces first, just in case I dont have enough I can stitch together the smaller pieces and use them.

5) Take a deep breath, have a glass of wine, and lay out the pattern. Once its cut, then follow the sewing instructions.

Good luck Rosie and my swingcoat pattern is on its way to you next week

LD

ps Make sure you measure yourself before you cut out the pattern. Patterns dont always reflect the measurements they have on the package. You may have to size up/down a bit as needed.