Sears Motorcylce Jacket History 1949-1963

[JMax]

Here is the one I should have in hand Monday. It’s been posted in another thread but belongs here.

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[JMax]

Close up of D pocket. Also, the interior of the collar and bottom hem is lined with corduroy. Not sure I have seen that on the collar on other MC Hercs.

 

[JMax]

Somewhere in this thread is an odd Oakbrook labeled jacket with the through belt. That was our of character for the times This does look like a similar jacket with the late 40s label.

I don't know what is going on here. I doubt anyone would try to fake a jacket by sewing in an "older" label since no one but us would notice.

The lighter leather is also very reminiscent of the Vertical Zip jacket I just bought. Made by Appalachian.

My Guess: This is an early Appalachian made jacket, sleeves on top, leather zipper pulls, lighter leather. It is the same as the Oakbrook because they made both jackets, but at different times. Perhaps the Oakbrook was a left over jacket re-labeled.

Given the variety we know in the early wool lined jackets; some labeled "made in California" I believe Hercules was looking for a supplier and suppliers were designing jackets. They were looking to save money and cut cost, leading to a variety of features. Sears needed production numbers and at their cost.

I believe this Made in California jacket were made by Californian Sportswear Company.

The early Made in jackets with the through belt in Steerhide were also made by CSC. I'm not sure how long the relationship lasted with CSC. I do not think it lasted that long.

These jackets have the quality of leather and workmanship of a California Sportswear jacket. Higher quality than the Appalachian jackets. CSC was also well known for their use of steerhide. They made jackets for sears in the 30s. They had the capacity to supply.

What do you all think?



Yes, it is getting pretty confusing with the addition of this 40s label jacket.

Did the red and/or green (and gray?) wool-lined jackets have made in Cali labels? I can see that the one in the picture you uploaded into your post that I quoted does, but have the others? I don’t recall. I probably should try to organize my pictures.

 

[tmitchell59]

Almost every config may be found I think.
There is this through-belt on Grailed, with wool lining and this label, without palm trees :

Thank you for posting this. I forget about this jacket. It is the same as mine with the 50s label. I am not sure if I have this Mountain label on another jacket. Looks transitional like the jackets. Short lived. Does not look like a motorcycle jacket lining! I had a Sportclad or Admiral Byrd half-belt with this or very similar lining, but can't find the pictures. It was from this era.

I think we have most of the transitional labels and jackets. We must remember the leather labels.

 

[tmitchell59]

Did the red and/or green (and gray?) wool-lined jackets have made in Cali labels? I can see that the one in the picture you uploaded into your post that I quoted does, but have the others? I don’t recall. I probably should try to organize my pictures.

 

[Wildhorses]

I was looking for pics of a 40s Hercules, wool lined with the palm tree label, but it won't happen I think.
That's two labels with Cali already.
Anyway, like JMAX, I will have to find your jacket, either with green or red wool lining.
That will happen. For sure...
You were probably right about the straight zip pocket being an Appalachian, even if I don't know all the models that were made during this era ; in fact I should have looked at this totally different kind of leather before posting pics.

 

[Wildhorses]

Close up of D pocket. Also, the interior of the collar and bottom hem is lined with corduroy. Not sure I have seen that on the collar on other MC Hercs.

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It was on ebay. I could only find the ended listing, because shipping was not specified to Europe.
This way I have not been able to find it when it was for sale. Good for my wallet
It's a nice one, and I saw a similar one sold too, in a different size.

 

[tmitchell59]

Found the Albert Richard with the lining, not the same. From around the same time, late 40s. I know that Albert Richard jackets were made in Milwaukee by Fried-Osterman. Two crazy linings

 

[Wildhorses]

Similar lining colors. I like the label "THE COAT OF THE STARS".

 

[tmitchell59]

Similar lining colors. I like the label "THE COAT OF THE STARS".

This is like the label Thedi uses.

 

[Wildhorses]

Thedi, the star of the coats

 

[JMax]

Here is the 54 HH Herc. Some obvious differences between this and the steer Herc I have (shape of D, patch pocket, stitching pattern, type of seams, corduroy lined hem, patch of leather at armpit, pockets leather lined, reinforced panel w/ stud work, lapels all snap to jacket, belt loops, etc.). I will post side by side when I have some more time.

 

[handymike]

Dang, those seams are pretty!

 

[Canuck Panda]

Here is the 54 HH Herc. Some obvious differences between this and the steer Herc I have (shape of D, patch pocket, stitching pattern, type of seams, corduroy lined hem, patch of leather at armpit, pockets leather lined, reinforced panel w/ stud work, lapels all snap to jacket, belt loops, etc.). I will post side by side when I have some more time.

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That's one of the nicest vintage 50s moto jacket I've seen here. So they did have premium features like the reinforced bits here and there back then. Nice.
That collar can rub the wrong way with your helmut if you a full face helmut guy though. Is the fur removable?

 

[JMax]

Dang, those seams are pretty!

Aren’t they. My Oakbrook is the same.

That's one of the nicest vintage 50s moto jacket I've seen here. So they did have premium features like the reinforced bits here and there back then. Nice.
That collar can rub the wrong way with your helmut if you a full face helmut guy though. Is the fur removable?

It is quite good looking. I am pretty stoked.

I am a full-face bubba, and will keep note of that. And yes, the fur is removable.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Aren’t they. My Oakbrook is the same.



It is quite good looking. I am pretty stoked.

I am a full-face bubba, and will keep note of that. And yes, the fur is removable.

Thats great its removable! I had to learn that the hard way. It would get uncomfortably hot with a full face helmet and a fur collar. The fur looks awesome I would want it on all my jackets, but best if it is removable.

 

[Wildhorses]

Lots of nice details, a great find.

 

[JMax]

Lots of nice details, a great find.

The fit of this one is perfect. The other Sears are quite good, but this one perfect. A tad longer than the other two too.

I’ve got one seam to tie up but it’s right at the wrist. Easy. The rest is good, but the seams of the jacket do not feel as tight as the ones on the Steer. That one feels like a Vanson or LW.

 

[roadking04]

Just a quick question about the thru belts. Have you ever removed it and tried to put it back thru?

How difficult is it to re-thread?

 

[JMax]

Just a quick question about the thru belts. Have you ever removed it and tried to put it back thru?

How difficult is it to re-thread?

That’s a good question. I haven’t removed them. Both are original. My best guess— It may take a bit of time and some effort if the belt is flimsy. Easy peasy if it’s a solid belt.