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Resale value for my (destroyed) Double Helix Deviant jacket

blobsterroll

One of the Regulars
Messages
279
*Rant*

Hello everyone back in 2022 I bought a Double Helix Deviant Jacket. Was iffy about the fit and all that, but I decided to keep it. As it broke down I think the way the jacket "sits" changed as well and I loved it more!

So much so that I tried to get a custom collar fitted for it. Now being stationed in Germany, the fur guy does not speak that much of a good English and my German is horrible. I tried to use google translate but I dont think the guy can read (he is old, so his eyesight maybe the problem)

So attached pic is what I got. The leather collar itself got punched with the attachment buttons instead of having a sleeve that goes on top and held by HIDDEN buttons (much like Schott's configuration).

Just ranting. I have since emailed Double Helix Works to see if they sell just the collar and maybe I can get just the leather collar piece replaced. Otherwise, it looks like I will have to sell this to someone that has this taste for a jacket...
 

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Messages
16,855
Horror story. I don't know what made him think that having snaps sticking out of the collar is acceptable in the first place, regardless of how expensive the jacket is.

That said, what I'd do is keep the jacket and have studs added to the collar, maybe the kind with Swarovski crystals but if that isn't your thing... I don't know, honestly. I don't think it affects the price to such a great extent for someone who really wants this jacket - And it is a beautiful jacket, regardless - so I think you shouldn't let go of it too cheap. Plus the collar looks nice.

In any case, good luck with whatever happens.
 

blobsterroll

One of the Regulars
Messages
279
Horror story. I don't know what made him think that having snaps sticking out of the collar is acceptable in the first place, regardless of how expensive the jacket is.

That said, what I'd do is keep the jacket and have studs added to the collar, maybe the kind with Swarovski crystals but if that isn't your thing... I don't know, honestly. I don't think it affects the price to such a great extent for someone who really wants this jacket - And it is a beautiful jacket, regardless - so I think you shouldn't let go of it too cheap. Plus the collar looks nice.

In any case, good luck with whatever happens.

In his defense, allegedly thats how it was done back in the day and is still being done by Aero (AFAIK) but damn.

I've been pondering about the Leon Custom, so I might go for that. Here is to hoping Double Helix can send me just the hide or just the collar. :(
 

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Observe

One Too Many
Messages
1,208
It sucks that this happened, and that you weren't satisfied with the outcome, but I think you'll notice it less over time. I wouldn't move the jacket or try any further radical alterations. Biker jackets have snaps and zippers all over the place. If it was a clean half belt design I'd be more upset.
 

blobsterroll

One of the Regulars
Messages
279
It sucks that this happened, and that you weren't satisfied with the outcome, but I think you'll notice it less over time. I wouldn't move the jacket or try any further radical alterations. Biker jackets have snaps and zippers all over the place. If it was a clean half belt design I'd be more upset.
This is how she looks without the fur... Double Helix says they can repair it. Hallelujah! Waiting on their response regarding just sending the collar instead of sending back and forth.

Now I just need to find a GOOD tailor. And I am bringing a German speaking friend this time! Also, I can send it to Double Helix in the summer.

Edit: That bullet is a bottle opener :p
 

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Observe

One Too Many
Messages
1,208
This is how she looks without the fur... Double Helix says they can repair it. Hallelujah! Waiting on their response regarding just sending the collar instead of sending back and forth.

Now I just need to find a GOOD tailor. And I am bringing a German speaking friend this time! Also, I can send it to Double Helix in the summer.

Edit: That bullet is a bottle opener :p
It doesn't look that bad to me, but I'm glad you're getting satisfaction from DH. I'm impressed with their service.
 

Guppy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,339
Location
Cleveland, OH
This is how she looks without the fur... Double Helix says they can repair it. Hallelujah! Waiting on their response regarding just sending the collar instead of sending back and forth.

Now I just need to find a GOOD tailor. And I am bringing a German speaking friend this time! Also, I can send it to Double Helix in the summer.

Edit: That bullet is a bottle opener :p

I think it's fine as-is. The main problem being that communication gap. It's really unfortunate that you went forward without having a clear understanding of what was expected on both sides. But the outcome doesn't actually look bad. Both with and without the fur. I don't think it's destroyed by any means, and shouldn't hurt resale any more than any other customization would.
 

Will Zach

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,850
Location
SoFlo
This is how she looks without the fur... Double Helix says they can repair it. Hallelujah! Waiting on their response regarding just sending the collar instead of sending back and forth.

Now I just need to find a GOOD tailor. And I am bringing a German speaking friend this time! Also, I can send it to Double Helix in the summer.

Edit: That bullet is a bottle opener :p
I honestly think it does not look that bad at all. And the bullet pull is great. I am thinking of making a pull out of a heavy duty fishing swivel I use for tuna fishing.

PS - and the fur collar looks kickass.
 

willyto

One Too Many
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1,616
Location
Barcelona
I am a bit confused here. Isn’t that the way it’s done? Even Lost Worlds has photos of the Trojan with studs visible on the lapel like that. I know mine has more than usual(a non official job I would guess but doesn’t bother me)



Mine second hand also has many studs without the collar.

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Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,084
Location
London, UK
I think it's fine as-is. The main problem being that communication gap. It's really unfortunate that you went forward without having a clear understanding of what was expected on both sides. But the outcome doesn't actually look bad. Both with and without the fur. I don't think it's destroyed by any means, and shouldn't hurt resale any more than any other customization would.

Agreed - tbh, I was expecting much worse from the thread title / op.

Purely from a utilitarian pov, I suspect this will work much better than the like of the standard Schott design. Aero did their removable collars for a brief period under the Lauder management. When Ken came back to sort that out in 2011/12, he cut them from the line as he wasn't happy with the design. (It's also - bike jackets aside - something that wasn't a norm in the pre-1960 period, and didn't fit with the Aero design philosophy.) I've seen far too many over the years that ride up, don't sit in place, and such: the illusion of being a fixed-collar that they should give rarely works in reality. Where those studs are should make the collar sit much more stable than other designs I've seen.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,730
If you are sending the jacket to an authorized Double Helix shop you can also ask them to add a proper fur collar on top of the repair. Are their rates reasonable?
It's not that bad, the old way they did it, was so it would be stable in the wind. Current jacket makers uses the snaps from sail boats and they're much stronger than garment snaps. So they can hide them on the inside collar and would be just as strong.
I have a DH jacket, they're made so they can be repaired. I think if the cost is reasonable repair is the best route.
 

Hide'n'seek

One of the Regulars
Messages
285
Location
Scotland
In his defense, allegedly thats how it was done back in the day and is still being done by Aero (AFAIK) but damn.

I've been pondering about the Leon Custom, so I might go for that. Here is to hoping Double Helix can send me just the hide or just the collar. :(
This isn't how Aero do it. Aero do not offer removable collars as we have never found an attachmnet way that we have been truly happy with. Either the fur collar doesn't sit right or you need to attach lots of studs that with the collar removed are both uncomfortable and unsightly.
The jacket in your pic has had aftermarket collar attachments done by Aero stockist Thurston
 

Aloysius

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,000
In his defense, allegedly thats how it was done back in the day and is still being done by Aero (AFAIK) but damn.

This is by Thurston, not Aero, and yes it's how vintage American jackets (especially Buco jackets) did it as well as how The Real McCoy's does it now but it's not at all like the German guy did it. @willyto does yours have a stud on the back piece of the collar itself? I would be

You don't attach the studs to the visible back of the collar…

When I have the detachable collar off of my Thurston Aero, you basically can't see the studs at all. I mostly wear it without.

My suggestion would be to just leave the fur collar on permanently but this one looks awful. What is it made of?
 
Messages
17,512
Location
Chicago
This is by Thurston, not Aero, and yes it's how vintage American jackets (especially Buco jackets) did it as well as how The Real McCoy's does it now but it's not at all like the German guy did it. @willyto does yours have a stud on the back piece of the collar itself? I would be

You don't attach the studs to the visible back of the collar…

When I have the detachable collar off of my Thurston Aero, you basically can't see the studs at all. I mostly wear it without.

My suggestion would be to just leave the fur collar on permanently but this one looks awful. What is it made of?
Looks like Rabbit or coyote fur to me.
 

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