Ralphs-Pugh Company

[jchance]

The Police jacket is their standard model from the early 50s. I have this model, like new condition, with the finest Horsehide. I've also had this model that was a wreck.

What would you say is a fair price for a mint condition CHP, with mouton collar? Supposedly 1940’s steerhide.

Interestingly, there’s wrist knits inside the button sleeves.

 

[jchance]

RP wool and suede

 

[jchance]

several non-black RP jackets and RP rain-togs

 

[jchance]

more RP rain-togs and RP pants

 

[jchance]

I’m going to try to settle whether Ralphs-Pugh made leather jackets for Montgomery Ward with this post.

The top label is made by Ralphs-Pugh, as indicative of the RP’s famous Steerhide label. Note the circle with “MW” next to the tree, that’s short for Montgomery Ward.

The bottom 2 labels are for Montgomery Ward, which is oddly similar to the one made by Ralphs-Pugh above. Even the font and the house logos are the same! Instead of the MW logo that is missing, “Montgomery Ward” is written out.

 

[AHP91]

What would you say is a fair price for a mint condition CHP, with mouton collar? Supposedly 1940’s steerhide.

Interestingly, there’s wrist knits inside the button sleeves.

View attachment 714874 View attachment 714875 View attachment 714876

This is a great jacket that’s been w

What would you say is a fair price for a mint condition CHP, with mouton collar? Supposedly 1940’s steerhide.

Interestingly, there’s wrist knits inside the button sleeves.

View attachment 714874 View attachment 714875 View attachment 714876

fair price is whatever you would pay. I think I’ve seen the jacket - seller wants quite a bit for it but honestly would sell in Japan for that amount. Limiting factor is very small size. It’s a very rare jacket - the design is probably slightly less desirable than a d pocket or civilian jacket of Ralph’s Pugh. Still a tier a jacket due to condition and scarcity.

 

[jchance]

I would guess that RP had their choice of leathers and processing. They may have had their own "mix". The Tanneries were in the bay area. This label show up on other bay area makers.

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Here is another label from a California tannery. This is a goatskin jacket. I have seen this label with other leathers indicated.

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Thanks for mentioning the tannery! It’s prob an excellent tanning method that they had that their hides were able to survive that long. I also saw the tannery label on a Seattle Woolen Co. jacket in another thread. Below, I found another label of that tannery on an original California Mfg. Co. of Oakland, California that Rainbow Country uses as their repro label.

 

[jchance]

Ralphs-Pugh Straight Zip and another RP for J.C. Penney’s

 

[jchance]

2 Montgomery Ward by probably Ralphs-Pugh, unlabeled

 

[tmitchell59]

I’m going to settle whether Ralphs-Pugh made leather jackets for Montgomery Ward with this post.

The top label is made by Ralphs-Pugh, as indicative of the RP’s famous Steerhide label. Note the circle with “MW” next to the tree, that’s short for Montgomery Ward.

View attachment 714938

The bottom 2 labels are for Montgomery Ward, which is oddly similar to the one made by Ralphs-Pugh above. Even the font and the house logos are the same! Instead of the MW logo that is missing, “Montgomery Ward” is written out.

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Not all jackets made with these MW labels were made by RP. The Pony Hide banner indicates LA Sportogs, CSC made jackets with this label also.

 

[jchance]

Some fit pics (not me) of CHP, the front is too short.

 

[aztecasteve]

Here’s one I haven’t seen before

 

[jeo]

2 Montgomery Ward by probably Ralphs-Pugh, unlabeled

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Both of these are California Sportswear

Ralphs-Pugh Straight Zip and another RP for J.C. Penney’s

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Some fit pics (not me) of CHP, the front is too short.

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These are mine.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Quite unexpectedly, I walked into a vintage shop in my local area and walked out (the next day) with this Ralphs-Pugh police model jacket. I did not try it on nor did I take any measurements prior to purchase. I could tell it was special and worth some restoration.

Due to needing both a re-line and new zipper, it was just sent to Dena at Great Leather. The upper back panel of leather (above the upper back yoke) shows evidence of sun or light deterioration. Otherwise, with new lining and the sleeves repaired, and new zipper it should be ready for the next 80 years of wear. Since these photos were taken, I have sorted out how to snap the collar down correctly, so it does not look out of place as show here.

The lining does not look too bad in these photos, however the RH sleeve had completely come apart at the attachement point to the main body. Since I presently have "easy access" sleeves, I took photos for Dena of what expect, perhaps this can be repaired instead:

The LH sleeve is stating to go the same way, maybe it's better to simply do the complete jacket and not have to consider that down the road.

The best news - I can wear the jacket. The shoulders are 19" across, the back length is around 25" and the pit to pit is around 22.25" With the cuffs in the sleeves, they measure around 25" or maybe a little bit more.

Being a very old vintage jacket, I understand it may be had to find one that would ever be a "perfect fit". This one, suprisingly, still has a strong leather scent to it - no mildew, mold or smoke odor at all. And honestly, what really impressed me is just how detailed the craftsmanship of this jacket is, see the details in the next two photos for an idea:

 

[Mysteryo]

Quite unexpectedly, I walked into a vintage shop in my local area and walked out (the next day) with this Ralphs-Pugh police model jacket. I did not try it on nor did I take any measurements prior to purchase. I could tell it was special and worth some restoration.

Due to needing both a re-line and new zipper, it was just sent to Dena at Great Leather. The upper back panel of leather (above the upper back yoke) shows evidence of sun or light deterioration. Otherwise, with new lining and the sleeves repaired, and new zipper it should be ready for the next 80 years of wear. Since these photos were taken, I have sorted out how to snap the collar down correctly, so it does not look out of place as show here.

View attachment 723030 View attachment 723031 View attachment 723032 View attachment 723033 View attachment 723034

The lining does not look too bad in these photos, however the RH sleeve had completely come apart at the attachement point to the main body. Since I presently have "easy access" sleeves, I took photos for Dena of what expect, perhaps this can be repaired instead:

View attachment 723035 View attachment 723036
View attachment 723037


The LH sleeve is stating to go the same way, maybe it's better to simply do the complete jacket and not have to consider that down the road.

The best news - I can wear the jacket. The shoulders are 19" across, the back length is around 25" and the pit to pit is around 22.25" With the cuffs in the sleeves, they measure around 25" or maybe a little bit more.

Being a very old vintage jacket, I understand it may be had to find one that would ever be a "perfect fit". This one, suprisingly, still has a strong leather scent to it - no mildew, mold or smoke odor at all. And honestly, what really impressed me is just how detailed the craftsmanship of this jacket is, see the details in the next two photos for an idea:

View attachment 723039 View attachment 723038

Please, provide Dina with a proper 50's Talon Zipper, dont let her instal a modern yKK! (I know this is not of my business)

 

[AeroFan_07]

^^ I'd like to, just need to try and find one.

 

[Mysteryo]

^^ I'd like to, just need to try and find one.

I have some NOS.
the fabric is blue but can easily be dyed .
Tell me if interested

 

[tmitchell59]

I agree on the zipper, use an original. The 50s zippers are not that hard to find.

I'm looking forward to a visit, you and your new Ralphs-Pugh. I want to try that collar on mine! I may be able to make a pattern.

Looks like you found an original zipper!

It is a great jacket with a great story. I've never found a leather jacket this nice in any store. Congratulations.

 

[tmitchell59]

1950s Steerhide police jacket.

 

[jeo]

Adding this Ralph’s Pugh Cossack from the 30’s I just got to the thread.