Not only fit check ( Peacoat)

[Oakbark]

Hi gents
This peacoat should be the interpretation cut of the 1930 era, with some obvious exceptions.
I was looking for a peacoat with enough room to wear a sport jacket or flannel underneath it, not often, but at least to have the chance to wear it and still feel comfortable.
Most of the time, I'd wear a peacoat with a chunky shawl cardigan or with a trucker denim jacket or with a heavy turtleneck pullover.
For reference in these pics, I'm only wearing a polo pullover in merino wool, gauge 12 (quite thin).
I say since now that it looks a little too big for my liking, regardless of whether it might be more or less acceptable, but latelyI've been switching with great effort from snug outfits to something more relaxed; just that I'm not used yet;

anyway, I know a peacoat should fall straight: not tight, but close to the body—it's not meant to be as roomy as an overcoat.
This is an online purchase: I asked for the measurements before buying, and they were quite accurate, but not perfect.
The chest is 24 inches, while they told me it was 23.
The shoulders are 19.3inches, while I was told they were 19.
The back length is 32.7 inches.
The coat has a Thinsulate lining (this is the last time I buy a coat with padded lining).
I'm 5ft 8.5, with wide and muscled shoulders, chest, and back.
Honestly, I'd return it, but I can't;


I believe (for now) that the overall length doesn't suit me well, and among the thousands of screens I took online, I see that most of the time people wear peacoats that end at their thumbs with their arms resting on their sides.
In my case, the coat is 1.35 inches longer than my thumb, which is a note for aesthetic assessments.
For technical info, the coat is 2.7 inches longer than my buttocks, so a bit longer than those 2 inches that are considered the max lenght “allowed”

I saw that 1910s-era peacoats with this same construction had a similar length, ending over the hand of the wearer, so longer than what is commonly considered the proper length for a peacoat.

During my online research, I found that several Japanese brands make this longer cut, and due to the fact that, generally speaking, Japanese men are not blessed with height as I'm not, their peacoats end even a bit lower than mine.
Do I like it? Not much, but I saw someone wearing the no-bridge peacoat from Private White that was long and roomy, and I liked it.

What do you guys think of the overall aesthetic of mine?
I want to add that the shoulder seams seem a bit extended, but I own some Neapolitan jackets with the same shoulder angles/construction, and they are perfect for accommodating my wide shoulders.

As you can see from one pic, my arm is very close to the coat, and I'm only wearing a thin pullover.
The arm length is obviously too long; I quickly folded them up to show how it would look after the tailor alteration.

I'm not so keen to get rid of this coat somehow, first of all because it took me many months of searching—first to figure out what type I wanted; then it was very hard to find a civilian brand in 100% wool like this one for a price lower than $600/700—and finally because I know a smaller size of this one I got would be too snug on me anyway;

it might be nicer because of a shorter length, but for the upper part, it would be too tight, especially if wearing something heavier than a thin pullover.
In this peacoat, I'm comfortable, but layering up with something, I already feel the coat is kinda tight on me.

I'd consider shortening it by 1 inch, but those pockets seem to be placed too low compared to other models I saw, so making the coat 1 inch shorter might mess with the proportions, plus the original cut of the 1910 or 1930 was actually long.

I also considered taking in it a bit, cause the lower part has more room, I mean under my ribs cage, so it would look more close, but still holding the comfort of the upper part.

Some comments from you all would be very appreciated, both for technical notes and from an aesthetic point of view, and if I could do something (allowed) to improve the fit.

I will buy another peacoat anyway, from another brand, maybe in a different cut, shorter for sure and with no padded lining, but I'd like to wear this one too, as long as it doesn't seem too wrong both for the technical features of a peacoat and for the aesthetic purpose on me.
Thank you all in advance.

 

[Oakbark]

These are the pics of the Private White I was talking about.
it's a different cut, 6 buttons and so on, but I like how he sports it, it looks comfy, relaxed, withouit looking bulky in my opinion: might it depend on the fact that it doesn't have a padded lining? I take for granted that he's wearing his proper size for that coat.
Regarding the padded vs no padded lining, I'm not so sure on my thoughts:
Talking about fabtrics for suit jackets, worsted wool and canvassed construction offer the best drape to the jacket, in comparison for example with cotton that doesn't drape.
Now, looking at original peacoats from the 2 wars, that have a thin lining, there are 2 scenarios; a close fit, makes the peacoat looks great, but if the peacoat fits a bit bigger it starts showing the worst defects, cause the wool of the coat is thick and it looks rigid all over the shoulders, arms and so on.
In turn, a quilted coat, it's easy to look bulky, as I feel mine looks like, considering that a smaller size should be the proper one for my height, but not for my built and my idea of layering up

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

Hi gents
This peacoat should be the interpretation cut of the 1930 era, with some obvious exceptions.
I was looking for a peacoat with enough room to wear a sport jacket or flannel underneath it, not often, but at least to have the chance to wear it and still feel comfortable.
Most of the time, I'd wear a peacoat with a chunky shawl cardigan or with a trucker denim jacket or with a heavy turtleneck pullover.
For reference in these pics, I'm only wearing a polo pullover in merino wool, gauge 12 (quite thin).
I say since now that it looks a little too big for my liking, regardless of whether it might be more or less acceptable, but latelyI've been switching with great effort from snug outfits to something more relaxed; just that I'm not used yet;

anyway, I know a peacoat should fall straight: not tight, but close to the body—it's not meant to be as roomy as an overcoat.
This is an online purchase: I asked for the measurements before buying, and they were quite accurate, but not perfect.
The chest is 24 inches, while they told me it was 23.
The shoulders are 19.3inches, while I was told they were 19.
The back length is 32.7 inches.
The coat has a Thinsulate lining (this is the last time I buy a coat with padded lining).
I'm 5ft 8.5, with wide and muscled shoulders, chest, and back.
Honestly, I'd return it, but I can't;


I believe (for now) that the overall length doesn't suit me well, and among the thousands of screens I took online, I see that most of the time people wear peacoats that end at their thumbs with their arms resting on their sides.
In my case, the coat is 1.35 inches longer than my thumb, which is a note for aesthetic assessments.
For technical info, the coat is 2.7 inches longer than my buttocks, so a bit longer than those 2 inches that are considered the max lenght “allowed”

I saw that 1910s-era peacoats with this same construction had a similar length, ending over the hand of the wearer, so longer than what is commonly considered the proper length for a peacoat.

During my online research, I found that several Japanese brands make this longer cut, and due to the fact that, generally speaking, Japanese men are not blessed with height as I'm not, their peacoats end even a bit lower than mine.
Do I like it? Not much, but I saw someone wearing the no-bridge peacoat from Private White that was long and roomy, and I liked it.

What do you guys think of the overall aesthetic of mine?
I want to add that the shoulder seams seem a bit extended, but I own some Neapolitan jackets with the same shoulder angles/construction, and they are perfect for accommodating my wide shoulders.

As you can see from one pic, my arm is very close to the coat, and I'm only wearing a thin pullover.
The arm length is obviously too long; I quickly folded them up to show how it would look after the tailor alteration.

I'm not so keen to get rid of this coat somehow, first of all because it took me many months of searching—first to figure out what type I wanted; then it was very hard to find a civilian brand in 100% wool like this one for a price lower than $600/700—and finally because I know a smaller size of this one I got would be too snug on me anyway;

it might be nicer because of a shorter length, but for the upper part, it would be too tight, especially if wearing something heavier than a thin pullover.
In this peacoat, I'm comfortable, but layering up with something, I already feel the coat is kinda tight on me.

I'd consider shortening it by 1 inch, but those pockets seem to be placed too low compared to other models I saw, so making the coat 1 inch shorter might mess with the proportions, plus the original cut of the 1910 or 1930 was actually long.

I also considered taking in it a bit, cause the lower part has more room, I mean under my ribs cage, so it would look more close, but still holding the comfort of the upper part.

Some comments from you all would be very appreciated, both for technical notes and from an aesthetic point of view, and if I could do something (allowed) to improve the fit.

I will buy another peacoat anyway, from another brand, maybe in a different cut, shorter for sure and with no padded lining, but I'd like to wear this one too, as long as it doesn't seem too wrong both for the technical features of a peacoat and for the aesthetic purpose on me.
Thank you all in advance.

First coat too big all around, except maybe your belly, idk.
Second coat…no opinion. It’s not you wearing it.
B

 

[Eagledog]

Get rid of it. It looks ridiculous. The folded sleeves are way too long. It would look even stranger wearing a trucker jacket underneath. Like you were a homeless person layering up to transport your stuff to a new location.

 

[Oakbark]

Get rid of it. It looks ridiculous. The folded sleeves are way too long. It would look even stranger wearing a trucker jacket underneath. Like you were a homeless person layering up to transport your stuff to a new location.

I get your point, even though it doesn't add something more specific to my reasoning.
As I mentioned above, I folded the sleeves up, cause they would be the first easy job for the tailor.
A denim jacket probably wouldnt even fit for a realistic daily use, cause there's no room enough, especially on the back and on the arms.
I feel the coat tight even just trying it on at home sitting down and typing at the pc and wearing just a shirt underneath.
Btw, I got u see it bulky and I agree with you

 

[Eagledog]

If you up for a jacket project take it to a Taylor and see what they can do with it.
It needs to be examined in person by an expert Taylor.
I would probably move it along and look for something that is better suited to your needs.
Rather than trying to force the jacket to be something it is not.

 

[Oakbark]

If you up for a jacket project take it to a Taylor and see what they can do with it.
It needs to be examined in person by an expert Taylor.
I would probably move it along and look for something that is better suited to your needs.
Rather than trying to force the jacket to be something it is not.

Yes, I was expecting a different fit, still comfy, but not like this and now I'm browsing around to see examples of people / actors in movies wearing peacoats in a larger fit than the ( more correct one ). Some I like, some I don't.
Thanks for your input