Fit check: FCL Eric Jacket

[01flhr]

Im not a fan of that kind of layering, thats what i have loose fitting carhartts for. For 1700$ theres a ton of custom makers you could have gone to depending on where you are.

 

[torfjord]

The "you have to break in your leather jacket" nonsense is where and how they get you. Your brand new leather jacket should feel (near) perfectly comfortable right out of the box and if it doesn't, nothing is ever going to change.
Other than you getting used to it. That's how all "success" stories of a broken in leather jacket that was initially unwearable, are formed.

This is truth

 

[Canuck Panda]

Don't size down.

What you got there looks good. But I also think for the same money there are other great options out there.

The things I can see FCL do different on the Eric is to do a V shape action back panel instead of the rectangle shape action back panel so it can give the illusion of V taper, and curve their hem line more like their xzips. Like the Buco J-25 I have. Which is basically the same fit as your FCL jacket but different hem curve and a V shape action back panel instead of the straight down ones.

Sizing is very tight on these. 44 is 41.

With action back closed

With action back open

That is my opinion on recent years (2020 onwards) Japanese jackets in general, that they've been watered down but prices are still going up. If I put a 2022 jacket next to a 2012 Japanese jacket the 2012 one always seems to offer more details, for less money too, although the surging new prices are pushing the used prices up too. I am priced out of these jackets now...

 

[Sebas]

This is truth

Question then (genuinely curious, not trying to argue) - what is meant when people talk about leather “molding” to your body?

 

[torfjord]

Question then (genuinely curious, not trying to argue) - what is meant when people talk about leather “molding” to your body?

Break in of leather happens, but it is more of an aesthetic thing. It changes how the leather looks by forming creases, bringing out the natural grain and fades or darkens the colour. It does not have any noticeable effect on fit or comfort. At least in my experience. Many years ago, I managed to convince myself that it did, but that was completely delusional.

 

[Sebas]

Don't size down.

What you got there looks good. But I also think for the same money there are other great options out there.

The things I can see FCL do different on the Eric is to do a V shape action back panel instead of the rectangle shape action back panel so it can give the illusion of V taper, and curve their hem line more like their xzips. Like the Buco J-25 I have. Which is basically the same fit as your FCL jacket but different hem curve and a V shape action back panel instead of the straight down ones.

Sizing is very tight on these. 44 is 41.

View attachment 663000
View attachment 663001
With action back closed
View attachment 663002
With action back open
View attachment 663003

That is my opinion on recent years (2020 onwards) Japanese jackets in general, that they've been watered down but prices are still going up. If I put a 2022 jacket next to a 2012 Japanese jacket the 2012 one always seems to offer more details, for less money too, although the surging new prices are pushing the used prices up too. I am priced out of these jackets now...

Thank you for the detailed write up! Would also add that I’m pretty impressed with the craftsmanship on the jacket.

 

[Sebas]

Break in of leather happens, but it is more of an aesthetic thing. It changes how the leather looks by forming creases, bringing out the natural grain and fades or darkens the colour. It does not have any noticeable effect on fit or comfort. At least in my experience. Many years ago, I managed to convince myself that it did, but that was completely delusional.

But then couldn’t the argument be made that if something is uncomfortable now because the leather is stiff (e.g., crossing your arms) then it will become more comfortable over time as it breaks in and the creases allow for easier movement?

 

[Aloysius]

Don't size down.

What you got there looks good. But I also think for the same money there are other great options out there.

The things I can see FCL do different on the Eric is to do a V shape action back panel instead of the rectangle shape action back panel so it can give the illusion of V taper, and curve their hem line more like their xzips. Like the Buco J-25 I have. Which is basically the same fit as your FCL jacket but different hem curve and a V shape action back panel instead of the straight down ones.

Sizing is very tight on these. 44 is 41.

View attachment 663000
View attachment 663001
With action back closed
View attachment 663002
With action back open
View attachment 663003

That is my opinion on recent years (2020 onwards) Japanese jackets in general, that they've been watered down but prices are still going up. If I put a 2022 jacket next to a 2012 Japanese jacket the 2012 one always seems to offer more details, for less money too, although the surging new prices are pushing the used prices up too. I am priced out of these jackets now...

It's weird that a jacket with an elasticated waist is so wide at the hem.

But then couldn’t the argument be made that if something is uncomfortable now because the leather is stiff (e.g., crossing your arms) then it will become more comfortable over time as it breaks in and the creases allow for easier movement?

Not really. It's just the sleeves shortening, at most. Doesn't make it easier to move around in. With a good pattern even a stiff leather will be easy to move in.

 

[Sebas]

Also wanted to add that even in the product photos the jacket does not look like it fits well on the 2nd model, which is pretty funny imo: https://www.selfedge.com/fine-creek-leathers?product_id=2605&sort=p.date_added&order=DESC

 

[Aloysius]

Also wanted to add that even in the product photos the jacket does not look like it fits well on the 2nd model, which is pretty funny imo: https://www.selfedge.com/fine-creek-leathers?product_id=2605&sort=p.date_added&order=DESC

Yeah the pattern block for most Fine Creek jackets basically does not look flattering on anyone.

People think I have some grudge against them and their wearers, but I don't. And I think their patterns that are based on denim styles are actually quite nice. But most of their leather jackets are cut in a way that fits everyone poorly, and to be clear I don't think this is a 'mistake' per se; I think it's deliberate because it fits a niche fashion trend in Japan, and Fine Creek is affiliated with the magazines of that subculture.

Worth noting that some of the FCL fans here get their FCL jackets taken apart and made into a completely new jacket, which I feel doesn't count lol.

 

[torfjord]

Also wanted to add that even in the product photos the jacket does not look like it fits well on the 2nd model, which is pretty funny imo: https://www.selfedge.com/fine-creek-leathers?product_id=2605&sort=p.date_added&order=DESC

It doesn’t look good on either of those dudes.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Thank you for the detailed write up! Would also add that I’m pretty impressed with the craftsmanship on the jacket.

My Fine Creek jackets came with nicer stitch jobs than my RMC and Johnson, I will give them that. But I think FC can do better on the Eric still, if they just increase the height of the kidney panel (like my Johnson) I think it would be just about perfect.

When I shop for FC jackets I tend to go for the ones with the vintage half belt back design, the action backs on those are shorter than the Eric so there is no bulging spot when new,

Even on Japanese guys the Buco I have has better over drape than the Eric imo. You're already making the Eric look good now, imagine looking even better in the Buco or Johnson or other FC jackets that has a higher kidney panel / half belt so the upper action back is shorter.

Also 2000 dollars US is like 300,000 yen, so basically your 2000 US dollars gives you an equivalent of 2500 dollars of spending power in Japan. The only downside is no return no exchange so best to get them while you are there.

No bulge at the lower back because the J-25 also has higher kidney panels than the Eric. But my FC jackets do have better stitching than RMC jackets, almost Rainbow Country like, that's another brand that has some patterns that has better full action backs than the Eric, but nothing exactly like it, for example my Speedster, the one thing that stands out to me is the full action back panel needs to end shorter than longer,

If you want to stay with the FC brand, they do have other models that are better than the Eric imo, for the same money. They're on pre-order basis now so that's a bit tricky but there are other FC models that are better imo.
Edit, like the new FC Gordeau, ¥241,890

 

[Tom71]

Break in of leather happens, but it is more of an aesthetic thing. It changes how the leather looks by forming creases, bringing out the natural grain and fades or darkens the colour. It does not have any noticeable effect on fit or comfort. At least in my experience. Many years ago, I managed to convince myself that it did, but that was completely delusional.

Respectfully, Hannes, I could hardly disagree more.
A new, non-broken hide of some substance will hang on ANY wearer like a piece of cardboard, whereas it will drape along the natural curve of the body once fully broken in. It’s the same effect with new or freshly washed denim, really.

I’ve had jackets that I wore so intensely that the sleeves would follow my arms, a little dent for the elbow included.

That’s “molding” to my body in my book.

 

[cbez]

I agree that the look will change somewhat. But if it's uncomfortable on day 1, it will probably always be.

I've seen far worse fits than this get applauded. I do like the shorter (jdm?) Eric tho.

 

[torfjord]

Respectfully, Hannes, I could hardly disagree more.
A new, non-broken hide of some substance will hang on ANY wearer like a piece of cardboard, whereas it will drape along the natural curve of the body once fully broken in. It’s the same effect with new or freshly washed denim, really.

I’ve had jackets that I wore so intensely that the sleeves would follow my arms, a little dent for the elbow included.

That’s “molding” to my body in my book.

I get what you mean - I’ve had that dent in the elbow on a lot of jackets as well. It does conform to the body of the wearer in that sense. A person with the elbow at a different position would not have the sleeve dent in the same spot. But what I mean is that I’ve never experienced an uncomfortable jacket becoming comfortable by breaking in. If it’s uncomfortable from the beginning, it will stay uncomfortable with only very marginal difference being made by breaking it in. When you’re talking about drape - that to me is an aesthetic difference rather than a comfort difference.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I don’t think this jacket (Eric) is uncomfortable for the wearer. Please correct me if Im wrong OP. The front looks quite good. It’s the back that could be better, especially considering the price point. Either the Eric’s kidney panel is too low or its full action back pleat is too high, its creating vertical drape for the whole back when it could break at the lower back and drape the other direction.

Fine Creek has other patterns and I don’t think it’s fair to judge the whole brand based on the Eric pattern. The Gordeau looks really good to me with the shorter back and front drop. And I also suspect the JDM jackets has different length than the overseas jackets. If that’s the case maybe just stay with the shorter length for all markets?

 

[Sebas]

My Fine Creek jackets came with nicer stitch jobs than my RMC and Johnson, I will give them that. But I think FC can do better on the Eric still, if they just increase the height of the kidney panel (like my Johnson) I think it would be just about perfect.
View attachment 663035
When I shop for FC jackets I tend to go for the ones with the vintage half belt back design, the action backs on those are shorter than the Eric so there is no bulging spot when new,
View attachment 663036

Even on Japanese guys the Buco I have has better over drape than the Eric imo. You're already making the Eric look good now, imagine looking even better in the Buco or Johnson or other FC jackets that has a higher kidney panel / half belt so the upper action back is shorter.

Also 2000 dollars US is like 300,000 yen, so basically your 2000 US dollars gives you an equivalent of 2500 dollars of spending power in Japan. The only downside is no return no exchange so best to get them while you are there.

View attachment 663037
View attachment 663038
No bulge at the lower back because the J-25 also has higher kidney panels than the Eric. But my FC jackets do have better stitching than RMC jackets, almost Rainbow Country like, that's another brand that has some patterns that has better full action backs than the Eric, but nothing exactly like it, for example my Speedster, the one thing that stands out to me is the full action back panel needs to end shorter than longer,
View attachment 663039

If you want to stay with the FC brand, they do have other models that are better than the Eric imo, for the same money. They're on pre-order basis now so that's a bit tricky but there are other FC models that are better imo.
Edit, like the new FC Gordeau, ¥241,890
View attachment 663050

This is all really interesting, thank you for the post.

So basically to make sure I’m understanding: the issue with my current jacket is that the kidney panel is too close to the hem, which is causing it to bulge out?

If the above is right - is that something that gets better over time as the leather loosens and drapes or is it just stuck like that

 

[Sebas]

I don’t think this jacket (Eric) is uncomfortable for the wearer. Please correct me if Im wrong OP. The front looks quite good. It’s the back that could be better, especially considering the price point. Either the Eric’s kidney panel is too low or its full action back pleat is too high, its creating vertical drape for the whole back when it could break at the lower back and drape the other direction.
View attachment 663095
View attachment 663096
Fine Creek has other patterns and I don’t think it’s fair to judge the whole brand based on the Eric pattern. The Gordeau looks really good to me with the shorter back and front drop. And I also suspect the JDM jackets has different length than the overseas jackets. If that’s the case maybe just stay with the shorter length for all markets?

No, you’re correct it’s not uncomfortable, it’s just a bit difficult to put my hands in my pockets but again, not a deal breaker for me.

Here are pics of the back - I kind of see what you’re saying about the back drape, but it also doesn’t look terrible?

 

[cbez]

It looks totally fine for an otr fit. There are a lot of people with an axe to grind on FCL, and a lot of people who think the only good fit is a super V cut short jacket.

but when Stu puts out the same fit in a Ryder everyone lines up to say he's the best ever.

The US market right now likes longer jackets not belt line jackets. It is what it is.

 

[Aloysius]

No, you’re correct it’s not uncomfortable, it’s just a bit difficult to put my hands in my pockets but again, not a deal breaker for me.

Here are pics of the back - I kind of see what you’re saying about the back drape, but it also doesn’t look terrible?

I’m quite pro drape in the right places (upper torso) in both tailoring and workwear but if anything the rear view convinces me this doesn’t fit at all. Others will disagree of course.