Dr H
Call Me a Cab
- Messages
- 2,007
- Location
- Somerset, UK
** Autocorrect has defaulted to Shelley, but apologies to Dave Sheeley**
I’ve just received this custom order from Dave Sheeley (Mavrickson on FL) following a very enjoyable discussion stretching over a few months to develop the pattern. I’m delighted with the result and the fit.
Last year, I was looking for a two/three-seasons ‘20s/’30s styled jacket for work wear and so the Freewheelers Dust Bowl seemed a good bet. I was delighted to find one on the Japanese auction market, but as the pattern runs a size smaller I had to sell it on to another FL member, as it was just too small (a very trim size 42). I like the styling of the Dust Bowl, but I considered that the likelihood of finding another used example in a larger size was unlikely. I approached Dave to ask whether he’d be willing to copy a Dust Bowl, having seen images on FL of an excellent replica of a FW Switchyard coat that he’d produced. Dave was very enthusiastic to take it on and we looked the pattern in more depth and discussed the detailing (5-button fastening, French seams, half gusseted sleeve, multi panel back, simple front panels, no chest pocket). Dave noted that the Dust Bowl is based on a Monarch design, and Dave’s familiarity with the designs of this manufacturer is unrivalled, so we ran through his collection of vintage Monarchs to find the best match.
At the time of the order I had a horsehide FW Journeyman and I wanted a lighter hide, so opted for French goatskin (it’s particularly well grained and soft so it’s comfortable to wear, while being hardwearing). Some years ago, I had a Gordon & Ferguson M-422A in a warm, mid-brown goatskin and so I asked Dave to dye the skins to match (Dave had a G&F M-422A for reference so the match was spot on). As we discussed the pattern, I realized that the knitted collar with leather tab was perhaps a little casual for daily use and so perhaps a modified Dust Bowl might be more suitable. I’m particular partial to the Perry Sportswear A-2 collar with the rounded collar tips (Dave also had a Perry A-2 in his collection) so I specified this, but without the collar stand to improve the comfort. The other major change is to the back, which is now a two-panel design (without the top yoke) with a slight taper and flare to the skirt. The silhouette on the new pattern is also not as exaggerated as the Dust Bowl, which was quite hour-glass shaped. The further that we went into the project, the more apparent it was that the pattern was beginning to resemble a Canuck, with some key differences. This suited me, as I had considered one in the past, but couldn’t justify the cost. However, it crept up on me somewhat, which was sort of convergent evolution, as I hadn’t set out to pattern one.
Dave carries out his work on a range of original period sewing machines (5 were used on this project) and a Reece button holer so the French seams, which would have been really challenging, were possible throughout the jacket including the sleeves. It was a real luxury to be able to specify everything, from the colour of the hide, lining, thread, button hole thread, and pocket/sleeve lining, to the details (position of the Monarch label, location of an internal watch/ticket pocket, which is absent on the Dust Bowl).
Needless to say, this sort of project involves a lot of input from the craftsman, and Dave is extremely patient and highly skilled as I went back and forth over details (during the design phase I’d routinely receive at least half a dozen e-mails in rapid succession to nail down details and frequent photographic updates to show progress during the build as key stages were reached: dyeing, sleeve manufacture, lining, etc.). Dave constructed a prototype out of calico to check everything fitted together and I’m a huge fan of this sort of attention to detail. The aim was to build a jacket that Monarch might have produced between the wars and so the selection of houndstooth lining, sleeve and pocket lining were all based on period Monarch options. Similarly, the selection of thread for the shell and the buttonholes was colour matched with the goatskin. Finally, buttons are period Colt examples, which I particularly like as they’re easy to fasten and have a strong Art Deco look.
We spent a lot of time nailing the fit, frequent discussions to look at well fitting sports jackets and using the dimensions of the FW leather jackets. The end result is that my usual bugbears (sleeves that are often too long, or torso that is too tight and short) were entirely avoided and the jacket fits well right out of the box.
Dimensions (notionally a 44)
Shoulders 19 ¼”
Chest 23 ¾”
Sleeves 24 ½” (along the outer edge)
Rear length 28”
Front length 26 ½”
I now have two work jackets that I’ll alternate (black deerskin Journeyman by Freewheelers, and now this brown goatskin Monarch ‘Drifter’). I don’t anticipate buying another jacket, but if I were to do so then I’d go back to Dave without hesitation. The quality of materials used, Dave’s seam work, and detailing is top class. Above all, Dave’s encyclopaedic knowledge of these jackets meant that I picked up a lot of knowledge along the way too. If you want a extremely well crafted, very reasonably priced, custom jacket, built using period techniques then I can wholeheartedly recommend Dave Sheeley.
More images to follow later.
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