Lost worlds j23 new

[Monitor]

the lack of wiggle on the puller feel restrictive to me

https://www.ykkfastening.com/products/search/detail.html?pdid1=OLD+AMERICAN(R)
I like the others on that list, but unless you plan to buy bulk or live next door to YKK supplier, you won't likely find these on your local DIY sewing supplier shop I bet, they probably only have standard YKK puller or Excella.

I do like the look of the material of that expensive zip, looks like pewter or something.

These are all really nice. Probably better material, nylon tape thus won't rip. I think most repro makers use these, except with "Talon", "Scovill", etc. stamped on.

 

[Monitor]

I haven’t heard or read about a main zip failure. Please direct me to that info as I would be very interested in it. What has happened is a slight tear in the zip fabric by the main zip stop. On the CHP’s Scoville, it happened rather quick then stopped.

Edit: The exact same thing happened on my commando’s main YKK zip. Little tear, it stops, zipper flawless otherwise

Exactly what I mean. Tape isn't supposed to tear, especially not right away. And many LW's that I've seen have the exact same issue. Both of my jackets have replaced zippers.

 

[ton312]

The issue with vintage zips (or any) without the plastic “sleeve” on the male end is that the tape is subject to more abuse. On my Goodgal is really bad. The pin has completely separated from the tape. It still works and can be closed but if the jacket weren’t so loose on me at the waist it would surely separate at the bottom. Old cotton tape is just weak.

 

[Monitor]

To clarify - I don't mean to make it sound like anyone's stupid for paying $530 for a few zippers, otherwise we'd all fall into that category, the crap we pay for. I paid more for having two sleeve zippers positioned differently. It's all good. We're all being had here, I've no problem with that. Just saying that the fact they're NOS worries me and I personally wouldn't want to take the risk of having the zipper tape rip one month into use.

 

[ton312]

To clarify - I don't mean to make it sound like anyone's stupid for paying $530 for a few zippers, otherwise we'd all fall into that category, the crap we pay for. I paid more for having two sleeve zippers positioned differently. It's all good. We're all being had here, I've no problem with that. Just saying that the fact they're NOS worries me and I personally wouldn't want to take the risk of having the zipper tape rip one month into use.

I wonder if there’s a preemptive solution, to reinforce the male end.

 

[Carlos840]

I thought the original crowns had a spring retainer, one that locked the puller downward so it wouldn’t move when closed? Hence the name “Crown sprung zipper”.
View attachment 227190

They do, well some of them do...
Here is a bit of zipper porn for anyone doubting the worth of the upgrade:

No10 Standard main zipper;

No10 "Connecting rod" zipper:

LT inside pocket:

Sleeve/pocket zippers:

No6 Nickel C&C (not available anymore):

No6 Brass (silver paint) C&C:

No10 full nickel (teeth+puller) that will be on my future CHP:

Yes they are expensive, but i have not handled nicer zippers, they are honestly the finest jacket closing device you can imagine. They make every other zipper feel like cheap modern crap.
I also am having a hard time imagining the tape tearing, it is two or three times thicker than the tape on a modern Scovile or Talon, they are the most over engineered zippers i have seen.
I would pic the Crown package over the Comet anytime too.

Also i want to add that i was never charged more for thicker or thinner leather, that was never even mentioned to me.

 

[Monitor]

I wonder if there’s a preemptive solution, to reinforce the male end.

Leave it to Germans to do it right. All Harro jackets have the entire male end reinforced in a single piece of metal casing. No need for plastic tape, nothing. Slides in much easier, no chance of misalignment and won't ever tear.

 

[TheGuitarFairy]

smoothest and most artful zips I've ever experienced were the riri's on my lewis .. just beautiful (edit ^^^^ did monitor just beat me to it? those riri's above?)

my old (now KissMyMuscle's) LW J24 had that thing w/ torn tape happening.
as i once posted, i'm of the opinion its poor machining/sharp edges of <the slot where main pin inserts into> that's the cause of tape failure ... if you run your finger across those edges it's obvious it at minimum hastens tape failure.

 

[Carlos840]

Leave it to Germans to do it right. All Harro jackets have the entire male end reinforced in a single piece of metal casing. No need for plastic tape, nothing. Slides in much easier, no chance of misalignment and won't ever tear.

FreeWheelers use zippers with a similar male end, i think it's a great idea and i wish more zippers had that:

 

[JMax]

I’ve used sail/kite tape on the commando with some success. You just have to reapply from time to time. I’ve thought about using a stronger adhesive to apply the tape but honestly, since the tears haven’t gotten larger, I try not to think about it too much. Just sometimes silently curse that it teared up/ frayed in the first place.

 

[handymike]

A few drops of super glue preventatively applied to all my zippers has kept this from happening to my jackets. A couple of vintage ones were starting to fray, so I just did it to all of them.
The all metal encased pin should be an industry standard for jacketmakers at this point!
Nothing is worse than the nylon two-way main zip on my North Face though. PITA

 

[navetsea]

the full armored pin looks cool, I wonder how to DiY upgrade common zipper into this.

 

[El Marro]

Very nice Jacket John, congratulations!

 

[Carlos840]

the full armored pin looks cool, I wonder how to DiY upgrade common zipper into this.

What is especially cool in the FW version is that the metal tab goes all the way to the rivet on the right side of it, i am pretty sure the rivet actually goes through the tab.
The male pin is completely solid and has no bend/wobble to it at all.
This is really a nice zipper too.
It doesn't have the satisfying tank feel of a spring loaded Crown, but it feels like the sturdiest small zipper i have seen.

 

[handymike]

What brand is it?

 

[tmitchell59]

Great jacket. Looks Heavy! Good choice on the zippers. I had zipper failure on two LW jackets. Neither was that old or the heaviest leather. Just plain crappy zippers. They look like a cheap reproduction of a Talon. I have babied the Cheap Talon on my Test and it is still working. Finding someone to change a zipper on a 4+ LW may be challenging if not expensive. Probably save money getting the better zippers to start with.

 

[Carlos840]

What brand is it?

Whizzer, here is a full shot:

The female side also has a tab the goes all the way to the rivet and holds everything in place.
There is no way the tape could rip on either side...

John, sorry for the zipper porn derail, and great jacket by the way!

 

[red devil]

If anybody told me I would enjoy zipper porn in the past...

 

[Mich486]

Whizzer, here is a full shot:

The female side also has a tab the goes all the way to the rivet and holds everything in place.
There is no way the tape could rip on either side...

John, sorry for the zipper porn derail, and great jacket by the way!

Aren’t all hookless zippers like this? With the male/female metallic part extending so that the rivets go through them?

 

[J Leather Investigater]

Yes, I decided to give them a try on this one. They look too nice.

They are amazing bro, i cant express enough how great they are, exceptional

Yes, I decided to give them a try on this one. They look too nice.