Italian brands hats

[Daniele Tanto]

Guerra Melousine

Guerra 1855 is one of the few italians hatters, still active, that remains after the huge flood of the 70'.
I introduce you this Guerra Melousine fur felt


The color is a very light tan with a medium brown ribbon (4 cm.)
Finishing of the felt is very soft and the hairs are easily combed

The hats has an excellent finishing, lined in white satin

Brown soft leather sweatband, no paper label under that



only this stamp

Dimension are the classic for EU hats of the 60-70' Brim at 5 cm. and crown at 10 cm. (lowest point). Size is tagged at 61 but real size is 60 or 7 1/2 US

 

[RJR]

Nice.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Minerva Blue

This is a Minerva, never heard of this Italian hatter. The only indication on the hat, but the paper size label is the same of a Barbisio.

The hat is made of thin felt, medium pliable.
The color is a deep blue and it is very light in weight.

Dimension are: 4.5 cm and a low crown at 9.5 cm. overwelted brim. The shape is a mixing of styles.

Low ribbon, the same color of the felt and good finishing. It seems first level entry hat made by Barbisio from the seventies.
No paper label inside, it was destroyed. The paper label of size is clearly the same of Barbisio of the same age.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks for posting this example!

 

[besdor]

There are around five or six factories left in Italy that make hats. Borsalino and Cervo are the only ones who still make their own bodies. The rest buy from Fepsa and Tonak .

 

[Daniele Tanto]

I known Besdor the italian situation. The Minerva is an example of a good hat made (more than thirty years ago) by Barbisio as not so expensive hat for a "debutant" buyer. It is a new-old stock sitting for years in a shelf, made by Barbisio, before to close the activity. In EU (you know better than me) many years ago the hatters made products, occasionally, with a brand new name. It happened, often, for not so expensive hats put on the market without the main brand to keep the image of the brand and above all prices, high.

 

[wcbrown]

Cappelleria Melegari Milan. "Last Man Standing" replica

 

[mayserwegener]

I known Besdor the italian situation. The Minerva is an example of a good hat made (more than thirty years ago) by Barbisio as not so expensive hat for a "debutant" buyer. It is a new-old stock sitting for years in a shelf, made by Barbisio, before to close the activity. In EU (you know better than me) many years ago the hatters made products, occasionally, with a brand new name. It happened, often, for not so expensive hats put on the market without the main brand to keep the image of the brand and above all prices, high.

Same as Germany (same time period) as we know. Thanks again for posting an Italian example.

 

[besdor]

I dpnt think anyone in Germany makes their own bodies anymore. Mayser, Wegner and FWS outsources almost everything today.

 

[mayserwegener]

I dpnt think anyone in Germany makes their own bodies anymore. Mayser, Wegner and FWS outsources almost everything today.

Yes no more hat felt production in Germany. Only Wegener is making a very limited number of hats in Germany. Mayser moved all hat production to Slovakia in 2011 and heavily reduced available models. I believe FWS only produces caps in Germany.

 

[RJR]

I like the look of the "Last man...".

 

[wcbrown]

I like the look of the "Last man...".

thanks RJR I tried my very best to get some photos up last night but they were sideways, upside down, you name it...they were. i'll see if I have any better luck tonight.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

I would love to know your thoughts on the comparison between the two hats "Last man stand" that you had from Melegari and VS.
If it is possible with some pictures of the details that you want to highlight.
It is interesting to see the work of two hatters so far operate on a hat "replica"

 

[Bob Roberts]

Any info at all on Guerra GQ from Hats Plus? Seems like a nice hat.

 

[wcbrown]

Cappelleria Melegari Milan. "Last Man Standing" replica




View attachment 24238

I have been talking to Sergio at Melegari, he informed me they use FEPSA felt. That explains a lot from what I learned from you guys about WHY this hat is so very supple.

 

[Bob Roberts]

Gentlemen! Any info/opinions on guerra cashmere fedora??? What's with a $200+++ wool hat...? Thank you for any feedback.

 

[mayserwegener]

Gentlemen! Any info/opinions on guerra cashmere fedora??? What's with a $200+++ wool hat...? Thank you for any feedback.

It's Cashmere so a higher grade wool (Vicuña is a higher grade). They have a nice feel and finish but the form is not to the liking of most on here (not my opinion). They also do not come open crown which most on here prefer. The sweatbands are not the most comfortable (synthetic leather?) either. In my opinion Guerra is a better deal than Borsalino (probably better quality control at a lower price point).

Borsalino Vicuña

http://www.cappelleriamelegari.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=688&language=en

 

[Bob Roberts]

It's Cashmere so a higher grade wool (Vicuña is a higher grade). They have a nice feel and finish but the form is not to the liking of most on here (not my opinion). They also do not come open crown which most on here prefer. The sweatbands are not the most comfortable (synthetic leather?) either. In my opinion Guerra is a better deal than Borsalino (probably better quality control at a lower price point).

Borsalino Vicuña

http://www.cappelleriamelegari.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=688&language=en

Thank You for the information. Hat is a Guerra "Cashlux" 4 in crown and what I believe is a whipstitch type fimish on the brim treatment. I'll reference the link you sent. Thanks again.

 

[mayserwegener]

Yes the "Cashlux" has a stitched binding. It's lighter weight felt (soft feel) with a short nap and some shine. The link was just an example of a Vicuña wool hat at a higher price point. The Guerra "Cashlux" are nice hats but with a modern form.

 

[Bob Roberts]

Yes the "Cashlux" has a stitched binding. It's lighter weight felt (soft feel) with a short nap and some shine. The link was just an example of a Vicuña wool hat at a higher price point. The Guerra "Cashlux" are nice hats but with a modern form.

Thx again. Was looking for a higher crown. This particular hat had a 4in crown that I coulda lived with but the hat had some other issues so I took a pass.