Is this vintage Cal Leathers CHP jacket worth it? Help with ID and condition

[Rick Dalton]

Hey everyone,

I’ve been eyeing this CHP-style cross-zip jacket that’s supposedly a vintage Cal Leathers piece. The seller claims it is, but the label looks like it might’ve been sewn in later — it’s not very cleanly attached, which raises some doubts. I’d really appreciate your thoughts:

• Do you think it’s a genuine Cal Leathers jacket?
• If so, what decade might it be from?
• And most importantly — how would you rate the condition of the leather?

The creasing is noticeable in photos, and I’m not sure if that’s just normal aging or if it’ll look rough in person. Any honest opinions welcome.

This is a tough one for me, as it’s quite a big purchase — especially with shipping from Australia to Europe, which, as more experienced members pointed out in another thread, also means I’ll have to deal with customs and possibly high import duties.

Thanks in advance for any insight — it really helps.

Cheers,
Rick

 

[Guppy]

It looks consistent with other known Cal Leather jackets I've seen/handled. Sleeve cuffs should have mouton lining, your photos don't show whether they do or not.

 

[Destruct]

Tag and construction look legit

 

[Rick Dalton]

It looks consistent with other known Cal Leather jackets I've seen/handled. Sleeve cuffs should have mouton lining, your photos don't show whether they do or not.

Good point — I hadn’t thought to check that. I’ll ask whether the sleeves have the mouton lining.


Also, what’s your take on the condition of the leather? Does it look more creased or worn in than most CAL jackets you've come across?


Thanks again for your help!

 

[Albe64]

It is a CAL...belt loops are buttoned down-up as all (and almost only) CALs do.... I have a '60s CAL which was quite creased but with Pecard and other creams I have restored it pretty well. If it fits you (CALs could be tricky with measurements as they were often customized for patrolmen) it's gonna be your best riding jacket ever. From Australia to Europe? That's gonna be a headache for sure.... a custom duties party.

 

[Rick Dalton]

Thanks for the info — very helpful! Quick question: is there any thread here on Fedora Lounge about restoring these CAL jackets? I'd love to read more experiences or see some before-and-after shots.


Also, do you think this one could be from the '60s too?


By the way, have you had any experience shipping from Australia to Europe? I’m a bit worried about customs charges and general hassle — would love to hear how bad (or manageable) it actually was in your case.


I'd love to buy a CAL jacket within the EU, but finding one that fits me — especially with sleeves long enough — seems almost impossible.

 

[NamoAmituofo]

Hey OP - are you buying from eBay or another member? You could always ask seller to mark down value and mark it as a personal item.

Re restoring and conditioning - what I’d do is soak it in cold bath with a little detergent, the rinse 3 times - the worst thing and often what you don’t know until you get it is the smell from vintage jackets!! Disgusting! Wash it all out in a cold bath!

Then let it drain in the bathtub for a couple of hours - just leave it inside the bathtub. Then lay it flat on tiled floor to dry over 24 hrs - turning now and then. Then while still damp, rub in a good leather conditioner - the water helps leather to soak in conditioner. Once you’ve done that - wear it and move around in the sun ideally or somewhere dry inside for an hour or so - take off to change your top/shirt which will be a bit damp - then wear it again. This way it will mould to your body really well in a few hours.

Do not hang it until almost dry. Post some pics here!

 

[jchance]

That Serval zipper dates between 1951-1971. White-label Cal has been used since 1960s, so the jacket is correctly dated in the 1960s-1971.

 

[Rick Dalton]

That Serval zipper dates between 1951-1971. White-label Cal has been used since 1960s, so the jacket is correctly dated in the 1960s-1971.

Wow, thanks! It’s great that you were able to date the jacket so precisely. According to the seller, though, this one is lighter than a typical Cal Leather jacket — probably similar to the one in this post: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/cal-leather-lightweight-chp-jacket-size-large-long.113505/
I’ll have to wait a bit for it to arrive. I just hope I won’t be disappointed with the leather — hopefully it’s not too soft or floppy, like an old rag. I’ve never actually seen this softer version of a Cal cross zip on someone before.

 

[Rick Dalton]

Quick update — the Cal CHP finally made it all the way from Australia, and I couldn’t be happier. The leather is super soft and light, which honestly surprised me a bit, but the overall quality feels top notch. Could it be horsehide?

I’ve also attached a photo of myself proudly wearing the jacket — one very happy second-hand Cal customer!

 

[AeroFan_07]

Looks great there Rick - wouldn't even worry about Horsehide. Just wear it and enjoy it.

 

[jchance]

Quick update — the Cal CHP finally made it all the way from Australia, and I couldn’t be happier. The leather is super soft and light, which honestly surprised me a bit, but the overall quality feels top notch. Could it be horsehide?

I’ve also attached a photo of myself proudly wearing the jacket — one very happy second-hand Cal customer!

Vintage Cal never disappoints. It could be horsehide, it could be steerhide (more likely). Horsehide was more common in 1950s and earlier. Steerhide was used in 1960s and cowhide was used in 1970s-present.