Is acrylic topcoat necessary on newly dyed leather?

[Monte.C]

Is this the right place for this?
Some time ago I stripped and re-dyed a vintage leather jacket. This was before I knew anything about leather, and I used Fiebing's resolene to finish because that's what "they" say to do.

I don't like the glossy result, but I've discovered Angelus has flat and satin finish options.
By chance I found another one identical, but in better shape than the first!

I plan on the same treatment - stripping and re-dye.
Question: Is a clear coat of anything required, maybe to eliminate any bleed? Doesn't that inhibit absorption of a conditioner? Doing this without acrylic seems like such a "natural" way - just dyed leather, then oiled/waxed with a leather conditioner. I'm not concerned about "the environment" but I like the idea of not putting a plastic topcoat.

Oh there's the other thing: The conditioner is oil and wax. Doesn't that itself protect from dye bleeding to your clothes?
Thanks all.

 

[PilotJens]

It depends on the leather and how good the dye is absorbed. If you use the dye too concentrated then a lot of dye will dry on the surface and rub of .
You can seal it with wax but waxes can also rub off .
I think CXL can also rub on to light colored clothes

 

[Monte.C]

I see. Makes sense.
Well it's thin 50 year old leather. Hmmm.

 

[Monte.C]

Questions:
1. All these prime jacket makers, all these premium leather options - Are any of these leathers coated with any sort of clear topcoat?
2. Why isn't bleeding/rubbing off a problem with these premium leathers? Is it baked in or something? (Someone is going to share how their one jacket bled color onto their shirt that one time. That doesn't answer the question. That would be a quite abnormal occurrence.)
3. If I put an acrylic topcoat on it, won't this inhibit the absorption of any conditioners?

I understand this isn't a DIY craftsy forum, this is for mainly collecting and appreciating fine items of clothing. Bummer I might have to go find a leatherworking forum to ask just one question.

Most of the information online seems to reside under a paradigm of "here's an awesome project you can do - then you do this and this, and then protect your work with a finish coat and you're done! That's it, forever and ever. Finished." That's very different than aged leather that breathes and wants moisture. A plastic coating isn't to my liking.

 

[handymike]

I let it dry completely (like a week or so), then I use conditioner on it- some color will come off. Buff it with a cloth, and finally I finish it with Blackrock which is basically carnuba wax. You could use Urad if you like a shiny finish. After that, very little color comes off.

 

[Monte.C]

I let it dry completely (like a week or so), then I use conditioner on it- some color will come off. Buff it with a cloth, and finally I finish it with Blackrock which is basically carnuba wax. You could use Urad if you like a shiny finish. After that, very little color comes off.

Thanks HM, that's just the sort of info I'm after.

 

[Monte.C]

Oh and I sent my questions to both Fiebing's and Angelus. Will report back on that if I get any answers.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Most naked aniline dyed leather will not pass the white glove test, but I wouldn't call them bleeding either. Just using the leather article will gather dirt and bunch of other crap that would sort of form a layer themselves.

I've never had luck with the pro dyes on already tanned leather. In order for it to work well the leather base must be really clean, and I am too lazy to do the stripping. Anglus acrylic leather paint can be cut with water and give the same aniline look, and is sort of three in one, primer plus color plus sealant. Much easier to use for end consumers imo. But if you are hand dying a gun holster from naked veg tan leather, then pro dye is what I would suggest, with some sort of sealant like wax or another coat of acrylic. And I use a foam paint roller, it's the quickest no streak way, wool dabs are good for the seams but they leave streaks on big surfaces.

 

[Monte.C]

"Thank you for contacting Fiebing.
Leather that is used to make clothing is chrome tanned and colored in a tannery. The process is very different than using dye on natural leather.'"
Is it all chrome-tanned? I don't care WHERE it's colored. And you're telling me "the process is different"... ?

The tannery also applies a very strong coating on the leather (usually).
What does "very strong" mean? Bulletproof? So I can "usually" expect an Aero jacket to be coated in plastic?

Acrylic coatings that you can buy (like Fiebing’s Resolene) will inhibit conditioners. Fiebing’s Tan Kote is a resin based finish that allows conditioners to pass through but it is not completely water resistant so it can spot if rained on."
That's fine, thanks. And I never asked about water resistance.

@handymike I'm liking your suggestions more & more. I might do that, buff thoroughly and take my chances with any color transfer. I have my own recipe for conditioner and I've already purchased the Blackrock. At this point I'm pretty sour to the idea of a plastic topcoat. We've got a "live" material here. (Well, it's dead, actually.) A plastic coating seems like a numbskull solution. If it's necessary then ok. If I can get away with oils & wax, then that's preferable.

 

[Monte.C]

Most naked aniline dyed leather will not pass the white glove test, but I wouldn't call them bleeding either. Just using the leather article will gather dirt and bunch of other crap that would sort of form a layer themselves.

I've never had luck with the pro dyes on already tanned leather. In order for it to work well the leather base must be really clean, and I am too lazy to do the stripping. Anglus acrylic leather paint can be cut with water and give the same aniline look, and is sort of three in one, primer plus color plus sealant. Much easier to use for end consumers imo. But if you are hand dying a gun holster from naked veg tan leather, then pro dye is what I would suggest, with some sort of sealant like wax or another coat of acrylic. And I use a foam paint roller, it's the quickest no streak way, wool dabs are good for the seams but they leave streaks on big surfaces.

View attachment 645646

Panda that's like a whole tutorial worth of info. Thanks! Helpful.
One note is that I've already done this once, with the same model jacket off the same production line. Stripped it well using alcohol. The result is beautiful, but then I used resolene - so there's the question. This time I think I'll be buffing it out with a conditioner, and then Blackrock (carnauba-based) to finish. Cross fingers.

I don't want to use paint. I think that was the original finish on both of these jackets, and it left them looking flat. My red-brown dye finish has life, character and depth.

- note: If I'm missing the point, change my mind.

 

[Monte.C]

Ok! Angelus is now exclusively my official dye supplier. This Kasandra over there reminds me of Gail @Schott.

"Thank you for reaching out.

Here are the answers to your questions:

Doesn't the acrylic coating inhibit absorption of any leather conditioner I'll use?
The acrylic topcoat, like Resolene, creates a protective barrier over the leather, which does limit the absorption of conditioners. The topcoat is designed to seal in the dye and protect the leather from water and wear, but conditioner may not penetrate effectively.

If you want to condition them, then I wouldn't recommend applying a finisher.
If you want to apply finisher, then don't apply a conditioner as it will be hard for the finisher to adhere.

Are premium leathers on high end new jackets coated with something?
High-end leather jackets often have a thin finish or coating applied during production. This can range from an acrylic or polyurethane finish to a wax or oil coating, depending on the desired finish and durability. These coatings enhance water resistance and color retention, and they typically help prevent dye rub-off.

Is their dye baked in or something?
In many cases, premium leather is drum-dyed, where the dye is absorbed deeply during the tanning process. This creates a more permanent color that doesn’t bleed or rub off and requires minimal maintenance. Additionally, the leather may be treated with a light sealant to protect it without fully sealing it off like acrylic coatings do.

I suggest applying the angelus leather preparer and deglazer first and then you can dye it.
After that, make sure to cure properly. Regarding the finisher, it's optional. Personally, I wouldn't recommend it so that the leather can still have a natural breathability, you can apply a conditioner to make it supple.

Hope this helps. Thank you!"

Sounds like her bottom line is in the last paragraph. Strip, dye, and then conditioner if you wish.
I'm not completely sure what she's referring to as a "finisher" vs acrylic. Angelus sells "Acrylic Finisher" and also a urethane clear coat described as a finisher. I'm going to stick to plan. Buff out with a conditioner, then Blackrock.

I'm feeling better about this now.