Homburg Nation

[fabiovenhorst]

Originally they weren't formal hats. Edward VII's Homburg was Gray but he had other color variations. The Homburg became more formal over time so Black is by far the most prevalent. I would say by prevalence -> Black, Gray or Brown, Blue, Taupe, Others. Always worn with Center Crease with or without Side Dents. I haven't seen such hats (Homburg is Anglo / American term) worn with feathers other than my old Deutscher Schützenhut.

That's interesting!

 

[TheManInTheHat]

Sorry about the picture quality but there's a story:

One day last November, I was wearing one of my 5 Homburgs - a black Stetson - and black coat to go teach, here in Hong Kong. I'd arrived early for my class and was in the lift lobby, taking the selfie (attached) and sending a text message. The lift arrived, an elderly Chinese man stepped out and saw the tall, silent, black-hatted Western man, seemingly waiting for him. He gasped and then, recovering his composure, commented ruefully, “I think you don’t need a Hallowe’en costume!” For a second, he thought I had come to collect his soul. I'm 100% sure: that would never have happened with any other hat!

 

[TheManInTheHat]

I did some archive research into the history of various hats and share an extract here. Apologies for any inaccuracies or acccidental plagiarism:

It is generally accepted that the Homburg was created in 1860 by “Bertie”, the eldest son of Queen Victoria. He was Prince of Wales and later King Edward VII. Bertie was a well-loved playboy and fashion innovator, introducing several dress styles that survive today. And he loved to wear hats. He regularly travelled to Germany, visiting his European relatives and friends in Bad Homburg, with its spa and casino. During one visit in 1860, the 20 year-old Prince had an idea for a new hat. He went to the Moeckel hat factory and demonstrated what he wanted by taking a traditional, hard Tyrolean hunting hat, removing the feather and punching a dent into the crown. Soon after, he and his friends were all sporting the new style. The “Prince of Wales” hat, later known simply as the “Homburg” after the town where it was created, was quickly adopted by fashionable young men across Europe and the US. And with the decline of the silk topper, the Homburg soon became the prescribed hat for formal evening wear.

The Homburg continued its illustrious career and was often preferred by prominent men with large egos. In the UK, it was for many years known as the “Anthony Eden” because that famously fastidious minister always wore one. Winston Churchill – another hat man – was often photographed wearing his favourite Homburg. And there was controversy in the US in 1953, when President-elect Eisenhower decided to “smash tradition” (as reported in the Chicago Tribune) by wearing a Homburg, instead of a traditional silk top hat, to his inauguration. Interestingly, Homburgs are often selected by costume departments for the principal characters in film and television productions, including the Godfather, Poirot and Dracula, as well as iconic BBC shows such as Hancock and Dad’s Army.

 

[mayserwegener]

That's interesting!

Thanks! Here is another but not me. Hannover-Linden (1900)

 

[mayserwegener]

Sorry about the picture quality but there's a story:

One day last November, I was wearing one of my 5 Homburgs - a black Stetson - and black coat to go teach, here in Hong Kong. I'd arrived early for my class and was in the lift lobby, taking the selfie (attached) and sending a text message. The lift arrived, an elderly Chinese man stepped out and saw the tall, silent, black-hatted Western man, seemingly waiting for him. He gasped and then, recovering his composure, commented ruefully, “I think you don’t need a Hallowe’en costume!” For a second, he thought I had come to collect his soul. I'm 100% sure: that would never have happened with any other hat!

Good One!

I did some archive research into the history of various hats and share an extract here. Apologies for any inaccuracies or acccidental plagiarism:

It is generally accepted that the Homburg was created in 1860 by “Bertie”, the eldest son of Queen Victoria. He was Prince of Wales and later King Edward VII. Bertie was a well-loved playboy and fashion innovator, introducing several dress styles that survive today. And he loved to wear hats. He regularly travelled to Germany, visiting his European relatives and friends in Bad Homburg, with its spa and casino. During one visit in 1860, the 20 year-old Prince had an idea for a new hat. He went to the Moeckel hat factory and demonstrated what he wanted by taking a traditional, hard Tyrolean hunting hat, removing the feather and punching a dent into the crown. Soon after, he and his friends were all sporting the new style. The “Prince of Wales” hat, later known simply as the “Homburg” after the town where it was created, was quickly adopted by fashionable young men across Europe and the US. And with the decline of the silk topper, the Homburg soon became the prescribed hat for formal evening wear.

The Homburg continued its illustrious career and was often preferred by prominent men with large egos. In the UK, it was for many years known as the “Anthony Eden” because that famously fastidious minister always wore one. Winston Churchill – another hat man – was often photographed wearing his favourite Homburg. And there was controversy in the US in 1953, when President-elect Eisenhower decided to “smash tradition” (as reported in the Chicago Tribune) by wearing a Homburg, instead of a traditional silk top hat, to his inauguration. Interestingly, Homburgs are often selected by costume departments for the principal characters in film and television productions, including the Godfather, Poirot and Dracula, as well as iconic BBC shows such as Hancock and Dad’s Army.

These type of Soft Felts were common in Continental Europe and go back to around mid 19th Century. Edward VII did bring back such a hat from Möckel but the dates I have seen are early 1880s . There is also some confusion regarding the Homburg and a dark green Velour that he brought back from Marienbad that was produced by Anton Pichler Graz. I found out about this hat when translating an Anton Pichler tribute that appeared in Österreichisch Hutmacher-Zeitung, December 20, 1930.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionz...hler-hutfabrik-josef-pitchler-sohne/#entry958

I actually visited the Gotisches Haus (Gothic House) Hat Museum, Bad Homburg vor der Höhe, Germany back in January.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/230-gotisches-haus-gothic-house-hat-museum-bad-homburg-vor-der-höhe-germany/

I have an early 1900s Stiff Felt from PH. Möckel Hutfabrik, Homburg vor der Höhe but no Soft Felts. I did find an old Velour in the Gotisches Haus (Gothic House) Hat Museum, Bad Homburg vor der Höhe, Germany archives. You can see them here.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/14-ph-möckel-hutfabrik-homburg-vor-der-höhe/

 

[TheManInTheHat]

Here are my Homburgs. The feathers are only included for posterity, I promise! They are a black Stetson, Milan straw Dobbs, brown Bollman, brown and black cheapie Stacy Adams, both new. Last, not least: a gray Churchill. All the felts are pretty rigid, especially the SA which are wool felt.

 

[TheManInTheHat]

Gettin' ready to scare the locals with Stetson and Bollman Homburg Power...

 

[TheManInTheHat]

I recently decided to add side dents to the Churchill and snap the brim, which made it a total head-turner...

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks for posting your Homburgs. The Churchill wouldn't be considered a Homburg Brim up or down.

 

[TheManInTheHat]

Thanks for posting your Homburgs. The Churchill wouldn't be considered a Homburg Brim up or down.

Yes I was uncertain. It's very stiff but doesn't have a taped brim

 

[TheManInTheHat]

Anthony Eden was UK Foreign Secretary and later, one of the "least successful Prime Ministers of the 20th century". Because of his fondness for the Homburg, it was admiringly known as the 'Anthony Eden hat' for many years. As his popularity plummeted in the 1950s, due to a series of blunders, everyone also stopped wearing the Anthony Eden hat.

Back in 1936, though, when he was still a rising star, Time magazine referred to Eden's "pin-stripe trousers, modish short jacket and swank black felt hat", worn during a diplomatic mission to the League of Nations in Geneva. Even as a much older man, many remarked on Eden's "film star" appeal.

 

[TheManInTheHat]

And here's how the Chicago Tribune reported on General Eisenhower's 1953 Homburg decision...

 

[TheManInTheHat]

The best screen Homburgs from Dracula in 1931; Dracula in 1958; the Godfather; Poirot.

 

[mayserwegener]

Only two of them would be considered Homburgs. As I have mentioned Homburg is Anglo-American term. I have never come across the term in 1930s and older Austrian and German Hat trade publications.

 

[TheManInTheHat]

Only two of them would be considered Homburgs. As I have mentioned Homburg is Anglo-American term. I have never come across the term in 1930s and older Austrian and German Hat trade publications.

Interesting. Which would not be considered Homburgs? All pictures are from US and UK films and tv shows, by the way.

 

[mayserwegener]

First row last hat, Second row middle hat maybe (bad angle), Third row last hat

Homburgs need to have a certain Flange / Curl. It should look like a Smile (German Flange / Curl) from the front view (the degree can vary but not flat). In most cases they will have brim binding but it's not essential. Should have a Stiffer Brim and Softer Crown (originally very tapered). Worn with Center Crease and with or without Side Dents (originally without).

Honestly I don't like the term Homburg because they were just Soft Felt Fashion Hats up to WWII in Germany and Austria. In America up to WWII they might also be called Fedora or something else. In Italy they might be called Lobbia although I think this is more post WWII. Lobbia originally was a totally different hat style. In the UK without Brim Binding Lords Hat and so on. Homburg is an Anglo - American term that really caught on World Wide post WWII.

 

[TheManInTheHat]

First row last hat, Second row middle hat maybe (bad angle), Third row last hat

Homburgs need to have a certain Flange / Curl. It should look like a Smile (German Flange / Curl) from the front view (the degree can vary but not flat). In most cases they will have brim binding but it's not essential. Should have a Stiffer Brim and Softer Crown (originally very tapered). Worn with Center Crease and with or without Side Dents (originally without).

Honestly I don't like the term Homburg because they were just Soft Felt Fashion Hats up to WWII in Germany and Austria. In America up to WWII they might also be called Fedora or something else. In Italy they might be called Lobbia although I think this is more post WWII. Lobbia originally was a totally different hat style. In the UK without Brim Binding Lords Hat and so on. Homburg is an Anglo - American term that really caught on World Wide post WWII.

Thank you for sharing your comments and opinions. However, whatever the terminology prevalent in Germany and Austria, the term Homburg was in common use, in the UK and the US, for many years before WWII.

Indeed, I have collected specific references to the Homburg hat from US and UK newspapers dated 1894, 1905, 1925 and 1934. And the style was clearly understood and agreed on by all users and fashion writers. It's a pity we can't find the same level of agreement in 2016.

 

[mayserwegener]

I said it's an UK / American term. I wouldn't say the style was clearly understood by all users and fashion writers prior (or post) to WWII.

I prefer to use Hat Factory / Production terms (Soft & Stiff Felt Hat) because they were universal (just translate to German, French, Italian, ect). It's just a personal choice because I am production (not fashion) oriented.

 

[TheManInTheHat]

For loungers with sufficient patience to cope with the 1934 writing style, here's a newspaper account of a meeting of the Hatters Association - the hat industry body which included retailers and manufacturers - in London. There are references to all kinds of popular hats of the day, including the dear homburg.

 

[Steve1857]

I found this Wegener Colonel the other day. The fur is very soft, both on the rim and crown.











Unfortunately, the brim has become somewhat misshapen. I have no idea of the age. Early 60's perhaps?