High Notch Leathers (House brand) Izumiya clothing store (Retail store)

[Poltung]

Cordva_no is also where I found out about High Notch Mfg brand. He has very curated nice collection of jackets. Cream of the crop.
I rate very highly of my High Notch jacket. It is on par with the other brands he carries in his store, FW, TM, Cushman. However, I read through his web page in translation again and it doesn't seem like he is making jackets now, just repairs. I could be wrong.
Since High Notch Mfg brand doesn't have much marketing exposure, their used prices are very low, but quality is very high.
There is an used basic half belt on Mecari now for ¥40,000. IMO it's a banging deal for the quality.
https://jp.mercari.com/item/m27414772426

Thanks for the insightful response @Canuck Panda !

It is indeed a great deal if they are about as good as those heavy hitters you mentioned!

I am more interested in their "Catoosa" model which I've seen pop up in Grailed for about 480€, which is fine by me. I'll probably pull the trigger tonight as I'm still discussing things with the seller.
But I'll be sure to keep my eyes open for more of this brand size 38 on Mercari!

I just love the multi panel back and the steep diagonal chest pocket with looped ball and chain, adding a touch of freshness to what I feel is a more old-school traditional design.

 

[Poltung]

Thanks for the insightful response @Canuck Panda !

It is indeed a great deal if they are about as good as those heavy hitters you mentioned!

I am more interested in their "Catoosa" model which I've seen pop up in Grailed for about 480€, which is fine by me. I'll probably pull the trigger tonight as I'm still discussing things with the seller.
But I'll be sure to keep my eyes open for more of this brand size 38 on Mercari!

I just love the multi panel back and the steep diagonal chest pocket with looped ball and chain, adding a touch of freshness to what I feel is a more old-school traditional design.

Quick Update:

Just bought the Catoosa jacket for 460 euros (about 510 USD), expecting it next wednesday!
I'll keep you guys updated and post some pics here.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Quick Update:

Just bought the Catoosa jacket for 460 euros (about 510 USD), expecting it next wednesday!
I'll keep you guys updated and post some pics here.

These jackets would've retailed for ¥180,000 (¥198,000 tax in) when they were new, just like all the other preimum Japanese brands. Only that High Notch Mfg brand is just one tiny store in Fukuoka, some 1,000 km away from Tokyo. Not a lot of recognition in brand. High quality stuff. Cordova_no seems to only has premium pieces in his collection, and he has a Catoosa. Can't wait to see it!

 

[Poltung]

Quick info on Izumiya High Notch leather jackets straight from the horse's mouth:
It is Shinki Hikaku Leather. I suspected it, but now we have clear confirmation.

 

[Canuck Panda]

That's what I had suspected. There is really not a lot of different options when it comes to horsehide available in Japan. Makes this guys used jacket probably one of the best deal for mi Japan Shinki jacket...

He is currently doing some major surgery work to a Highwayman jacket. Slim sleeves and slim body. Very cool workmanship. No fancy expensive Juki, just some old industrial single needle and going slow...

 

[red devil]

There is really not a lot of different options when it comes to horsehide available in Japan

Not really, there are a lot of smaller tanneries we do not know. Quite a few local craftsman do not use Shinki.

 

[Poltung]

Not really, there are a lot of smaller tanneries we do not know. Quite a few local craftsman do not use Shinki.

I guess that's true for Simmons Bilt for example, as it would be surprising for them not to take the opportunity to mention that their Japanese HH is from Shinki.

 

[Poltung]

That's what I had suspected. There is really not a lot of different options when it comes to horsehide available in Japan. Makes this guys used jacket probably one of the best deal for mi Japan Shinki jacket...

He is currently doing some major surgery work to a Highwayman jacket. Slim sleeves and slim body. Very cool workmanship. No fancy expensive Juki, just some old industrial single needle and going slow...

View attachment 514298 View attachment 514299 View attachment 514300

He seems to be really meticulous with his work, reminds me of Field Leathers from what I see on both of their IGs. Glad to see skilled artisans taking pride in their work!

 

[Mawashi]

Cordva_no is also where I found out about High Notch Mfg brand. He has very curated nice collection of jackets. Cream of the crop.
I rate very highly of my High Notch jacket. It is on par with the other brands he carries in his store, FW, TM, Cushman. However, I read through his web page in translation again and it doesn't seem like he is making jackets now, just repairs. I could be wrong.
Since High Notch Mfg brand doesn't have much marketing exposure, their used prices are very low, but quality is very high.
There is an used basic half belt on Mecari now for ¥40,000. IMO it's a banging deal for the quality.
https://jp.mercari.com/item/m27414772426

That is a almost perfect fit for me except the shoulders at 45 are an inch too small but at that price it is seriously worth starving over.

 

[red devil]

I guess that's true for Simmons Bilt for example, as it would be surprising for them not to take the opportunity to mention that their Japanese HH is from Shinki.

Not sure they want to work with Shinki, their leather is notoriously inconsistent. You either end up with a lot of second grade leather if you want to keep your standards high. Or you pass it on to your customers anyway hoping they will not know the difference.

Some makers prefer not to have to deal with this.

 

[Poltung]

Not sure they want to work with Shinki, their leather is notoriously inconsistent. You either end up with a lot of second grade leather if you want to keep your standards high. Or you pass it on to your customers anyway hoping they will not know the difference.

Some makers prefer not to have to deal with this.

Is there a thread referring to such second grade leathers from Shinki? I'm curious about it and would like to compare it to leathers I own

 

[red devil]

Come to think of it, there is no single thread to track it... this was mentioned in different threads over the years.

 

[Blackadder]

Not sure they want to work with Shinki, their leather is notoriously inconsistent. You either end up with a lot of second grade leather if you want to keep your standards high. Or you pass it on to your customers anyway hoping they will not know the difference.

Some makers prefer not to have to deal with this.

I would not be surprised when there is a higher demand than supply. I have heard talk about shell cordovan from the famous tannery that you either get whatever colour they give you or you have to reach a certain volume i.e. you get a small batch of the colour you want when you buy a bunch of other colour.
The failure rate is not low as well and the defective products are sold at discount to tradesmen who then move them on as some special "marbled" batch. That's why you see all those so called "marbled" shell cordovan wallets and cardholders around. Those "marbled" shell cordovan are originally defective products from the factory's perspective.
Back to High Notch. The jacket looks nice. It is almost exactly what I like save for the zippered cuffs. Congratulations. Good find.

 

[Poltung]

I would not be surprised when there is a higher demand than supply. I have heard talk about shell cordovan from the famous tannery that you either get whatever colour they give you or you have to reach a certain volume i.e. you get a small batch of the colour you want when you buy a bunch of other colour.
The failure rate is not low as well and the defective products are sold at discount to tradesmen who then move them on as some special "marbled" batch. That's why you see all those so called "marbled" shell cordovan wallets and cardholders around. Those "marbled" shell cordovan are originally defective products from the factory's perspective.
Back to High Notch. The jacket looks nice. It is almost exactly what I like save for the zippered cuffs. Congratulations. Good find.

Thanks for the response it is quite informative! That is logical, considering some tanneries' high popularity, namely Horween and Shinki Hikaku.

As for the High Notch Catoosa, I agree with your comment on the zipped sleeves. I was also on the fence about it, but then thought "oh well I already have an elegant Schott suede with buttoned cuffs, let's go zippers to be more casual", even though this is clearly outside of my comfort zone.
Still haven't received the jacket yet though!

 

[Mawashi]

Thanks for the response it is quite informative! That is logical, considering some tanneries' high popularity, namely Horween and Shinki Hikaku.

As for the High Notch Catoosa, I agree with your comment on the zipped sleeves. I was also on the fence about it, but then thought "oh well I already have an elegant Schott suede with buttoned cuffs, let's go zippers to be more casual", even though this is clearly outside of my comfort zone.
Still haven't received the jacket yet though!

Pictures or it didn't happen lol!

 

[JCSD]

Picked this one up and am sorely disappointed that it’s a bit too snug. Quality is everything that I expected based on the observations here.

 

[Poltung]

Picked this one up and am sorely disappointed that it’s a bit too snug. Quality is everything that I expected based on the observations here.

View attachment 515810 View attachment 515811 View attachment 515812 View attachment 515813

Absolutely beautiful! The leather and stitchlines look fantastic. But I'm sad to hear that it doesn't fit you
I'm still waiting for mine, should be here soon!

 

[Poltung]

I finally received my High Notch Catoosa !
It is my very first "proper" leather jacket, so here's a quick, inexperienced, review of this beauty:

First, the specs:
The leather: Shinki Horsehide teacore
The lining: Satin
The hardwear: Brass Waldes Zipper, brass ball and chain and brass halfbelt buckles.

Here are some pictures of the jacket, unworn.
Teacore is already showing through the horsehide. The leather is absolutely stunning, and it is exactly what I expected in a leather jacket of this weight and style.

The stitches, to my untrained eyes, are really, really well made. I see no visible flaws anywhere.

However, here comes the not so good part. I suspect this isn't Izumiya's fault but rather one of the previous owners': this damn Waldes zipper (the front one) won't close properly, even when unworn, laid flat.
I greased the zipper, tried pulling slowly, quickly, while tugging at the bottom hem, nothing works. As you'll see in the pics, the zipper keeps separating, which drives me mad as I always feel like I'm close to succesfully zipping it up.

Do any of you have advices on the matter?
Is it a Waldes / Vintage zipper (or vintage leather jacket) thing? Or have the previous owners been a bit too rough with the poor thing? I see no misaligned or broken teeth, but then again what do I know, I'm no expert.

 

[Poltung]

Here is the fit check (or should I make a separate thread? Sorry I'm a bit new around here)

I think it fits me good, albeit a tad bit too snug for my liking, but apparently this is how this kind of jacket is supposed to fit.

My biggest gripe with this size is my inability to properly layer.
Jacket is perfect with a t-shirt, but I throw a thin wool sweater on top of it and I now feel like walking around stiff like a penguin. Unfortunately, I can't even close the zipper properly to give you the full fit review.

 

[handymike]

Waldes can be tricky. You need to make sure the male pin is all the way in.