Hi guys im new here had a question about my new schott perfecto 618

[MrProper]

Ive seen lots of other posts on here where people get really specific with their questions with no kickback from other people. So i dont see how im being any different. Leather jackets are an expensive long term investment so questions and concerns should be expected and welcomed. I understand its human nature for there to be a pecking order and so senior posters get more respect and new guys are likely to get told to shut up and just wear it (which i have been). Its just a question if ur annoyed u dont have to respond. I know though that im not being overly anal with my questions ive seen tons of other posts on this forum with similar questions and respectful responses.


Also the first time i was recommended to stop fretting over every little thing, it was regarding a shoulder strap that was bent, and so it didnt look good. Im paying my hard earned money for an expensive jacket so my questions matter. If the people on this forum faced this problem, i guarantee many if not most people on here would notice it and have questions about it. My second question after that shoulder strap question was regarding shoulder sizing measurements. And its a another valid question, because it could lead the questioner to eventually seeking a custom made jacket later on down the road. So none of my questions are invalid, so being told to stop fretting over every little thing is disrespectful and a new guy doesnt have to take it. Its not my fault that there have been back to back problems with my recent schott 618 purchases. I believe i also mentioned loose stitching on one of the jackets, which falls in line with the notion (found on this forum) that schott stitching has more mistakes on average than almost any of the other big name leather jacket brands.

It's relatively simple: you get a jacket, put it on, admire yourself in the mirror and think "cool. I like it." Check.
You do the same thing with the same result an hour, a day later? Check.
Then this is your jacket.

If you start looking for and finding things about the jacket that make you wonder, then even a thousand contrary responses from a forum won't manage to gloss over those points for you.
Then this is not your jacket.
Not for nothing the classified section is well filled.
Just my opinion on this.

edit:
And no, a quarter inch doesn't amount to anything in the slightest.
Manufacturing tolerances at Aero and some others are +/- 0.5 inch.
If you have worn the jacket for 50 hours, you can't return it anyway, right? So wear and then sell at some point, the feeling of satisfaction should not arise.

 

[Saxena107]

outside lambskin/ sheepskin/ goatskin/ calfskin, it is pretty normal for a brand new jacket in steer, thick cow, or horse to feel stiff at first and you just have to go through it. broken in jacket same like broken in boots and raw jeans will take some wear to get there.

if you keep sizing up to the point the jacket fit comfy from the start it will look sloppy visually, by the time it is broken in you won't be happy with it.

I understand that the jacket will be stiff at first. But the shoulder fatigue i'm experiencing (along with a minor headache) is making me wonder if the shoulder length of the jacket is a bit too short for me (it's a quarter of an inch shorter than my actual shoulder length). Or am i having shoulder fatigue merely because it's a heavy jacket and i'm wearing it for a long period of time (i wear the jacket daily for 10 hours a day, and i love it; I don't want to take it off). I'm hoping the shoulder length of the jacket is fine. And I'm hoping the shoulders will feel more comfortable as it breaks in and that i'm only feeling shoulder fatigue because my body's not used to something this heavy. Because it's my first leather jacket. Although i've worn heavy stuff before; I used to play pop warner football and high school football, so i'm familiar with wearing shoulder pads. Also was in the drum line in high school, and we had heavy uniforms as well as had to carry heavy drums on our shoulders. And i vaguely remember having a similar shoulder fatigue while carrying those drums around.

It's relatively simple: you get a jacket, put it on, admire yourself in the mirror and think "cool. I like it." Check.
You do the same thing with the same result an hour, a day later? Check.
Then this is your jacket.

If you start looking for and finding things about the jacket that make you wonder, then even a thousand contrary responses from a forum won't manage to gloss over those points for you.
Then this is not your jacket.
Not for nothing the classified section is well filled.
Just my opinion on this.

edit:
And no, a quarter inch doesn't amount to anything in the slightest.
Manufacturing tolerances at Aero and some others are +/- 0.5 inch.
If you have worn the jacket for 50 hours, you can't return it anyway, right? So wear and then sell at some point, the feeling of satisfaction should not arise.

I really like my jacket. Just wanted to make sure it was perfect for me, as i plan on wearing it for years/decades. I saw imperfections so i addressed them, that's all. Thanks for letting me know that a quarter of an inch is nothing and that jackets are made for 0.5 inch variance. Was feeling shoulder fatigue, and now i realize it's just because it's a heavy jacket, that's all. I don't plan on trying to return or sell this jacket, i love it so much.

 

[navetsea]

I think what you experience is the same with everyone elses buying and putting on brand new leather jacket that visually fits well, and if fatigue is your problem sizing up will only get you a slightly heavier jacket. You just condition your body to accept an extra weight on your upper body is your new reality and your shoulder must deal with it and get over it or switch to fashion grade leather lamb and calf or try buy a used ones where someone else has done the breaking in part. Shoulder width is not that important on a leather jacket for normal fellows unless you have abnormally narrow / normal chest and huge shoulder from doing certain kind of sport. I have jackets with shoulder width range from 40 to 46cm while they visually look different, but i can wear them equally comfortable once they are broken in. From your photos your jacket shoulder looks fine on you.

 

[Edward]

I really like my jacket. Just wanted to make sure it was perfect for me, as i plan on wearing it for years/decades. I saw imperfections so i addressed them, that's all. Thanks for letting me know that a quarter of an inch is nothing and that jackets are made for 0.5 inch variance. Was feeling shoulder fatigue, and now i realize it's just because it's a heavy jacket, that's all. I don't plan on trying to return or sell this jacket, i love it so much.

Great you enjoy the jacket. As you'll have seen, were' a passionate bunch round here. Folks in these parts are always very keen to help (partly because they're a nice bunch, me because I'm an enabler who vicariously enjoys the new jacket experience I kid, I kid.... sort of. ). It's easy to misread something sometimes in written communication absent tone of voice; sometimes on here English isn't always a poster's first language, which can sometimes make a post more 'direct' and seem a little blunt where that's not intended. You'll find, though - probably seen it already - people generally are just very keen to help. All of us now and again over-focus on tiny details and find it helpful for others to say 'look, it's not a big deal'. You'll get used to us all over time. The guys here are a good bunch with great knowledge between them all. Welcome, and enjoy!

 

[jacketjunkie]

If anything, your new size 44 has overhang at the shoulders, the 19.75“ are not too narrow for your frame.

 

[Edward]

If anything, your new size 44 has overhang at the shoulders, the 19.75“ are not too narrow for your frame.

I kinda like a little bit of shoulder overhang in this style, but I really liked the way Brando wore it, so.

 

[Saxena107]

U

I kinda like a little bit of shoulder overhang in this style, but I really liked the way Brando wore it, so.

yeah ive never seen anybody else rock that jacket the way marlon did- with the extra room in the shoulders and the tapered torso. Maybe the costume designers of the movie tailored the jacket...

 

[Edward]

U

yeah ive never seen anybody else rock that jacket the way marlon did- with the extra room in the shoulders and the tapered torso. Maybe the costume designers of the movie tailored the jacket...

It's such a shame the original seems to have disappeared! If memory serves, it was also unlined (I have a notion they may have ripped out all the lining to make it easier for Brando to wear during long shoots in a warm climate?). It's possible the wardrobe department played around with it a bit, though from the photos I've seen it does seem a common period fit. I've also heard it said Brando had a bit of input into the costume himself - if so, I wonder if there's an element of his own preferred fit there. I am given to understand Brando did ride, though I don't know whether that's something he picked up for the film and kept on, or a previous interest.

 

[Saxena107]

It's such a shame the original seems to have disappeared! If memory serves, it was also unlined (I have a notion they may have ripped out all the lining to make it easier for Brando to wear during long shoots in a warm climate?). It's possible the wardrobe department played around with it a bit, though from the photos I've seen it does seem a common period fit. I've also heard it said Brando had a bit of input into the costume himself - if so, I wonder if there's an element of his own preferred fit there. I am given to understand Brando did ride, though I don't know whether that's something he picked up for the film and kept on, or a previous interest.

I'm curious as to what size jacket he wore... Maybe the information's out there on the internet. Might try and look it up soon.

 

[Edward]

I'm curious as to what size jacket he wore... Maybe the information's out there on the internet. Might try and look it up soon.

According to the Googles, he was approx 166lbs and 5'8" tall early in his career, and by The Godfather, the same height and twice that weight. I'm sure somebody could work it out from that; at a guess I'd suspect he'd have been somewhere in the 38 to 42 range?

 

[Rich22]

According to the Googles, he was approx 166lbs and 5'8" tall early in his career, and by The Godfather, the same height and twice that weight. I'm sure somebody could work it out from that; at a guess I'd suspect he'd have been somewhere in the 38 to 42 range?

His published biography states he was 5'8 3/4, and 144lbs, as a young man. He became dangerously fat later in life, but he looked to still be under 200lbs in Godfather, certainly not 332lbs...

 

[Edward]

His published biography states he was 5'8 3/4, and 144lbs, as a young man. He became dangerously fat later in life, but he looked to still be under 200lbs in Godfather, certainly not 332lbs...

View attachment 365413

I must be wrong on the 72 timeline, though his weight was known to fluctuate significantly (which was a him thing rather than a 'for the roles' thing). Definitely at the bottom end of the scale as Strabler, of course.

 

[Rich22]

I must be wrong on the 72 timeline, though his weight was known to fluctuate significantly (which was a him thing rather than a 'for the roles' thing). Definitely at the bottom end of the scale as Strabler, of course.

There's photos of him still looking ok in the mid 1980's, and looking his worst around about the turn of the millennium. You're right about fluctuating, I think, but I can't find any photos of him looking morbidly obese until he was an old man.



Here's an amusing article about his horrendous over eating. https://www.todayifoundout.com/index.php/2012/11/the-odd-eating-habits-of-marlon-brando/
Sounds like he had issues with binge eating and crash dieting quite early in life.

 

[AliceP]

outside lambskin/ sheepskin/ goatskin/ calfskin, it is pretty normal for a brand new jacket in steer, thick cow, or horse to feel stiff at first and you just have to go through it. broken in jacket same like broken in boots and raw jeans will take some wear to get there.

if you keep sizing up to the point the jacket fit comfy from the start it will look sloppy visually, by the time it is broken in you won't be happy with it.

At some point one year ago my jacket was doing this kind of impossible poses unsupported
View attachment 364063
View attachment 364061 View attachment 364065
It was very stiff and the very dry. I feel pain on the seams where folded leather edges is pooling since jacket fit very snug on me
In the thread WJDYWT i wear this same jacket today totally comfy.

Okay, that is a beautiful jacket. I love undyed natural leather that tans in the sun & develops a patina with wear.

I thought vachetta & the like were only used in handbags and wallets and sometimes shoes but this is gorgeous. May I ask the maker?

 

[Edward]

There's photos of him still looking ok in the mid 1980's, and looking his worst around about the turn of the millennium. You're right about fluctuating, I think, but I can't find any photos of him looking morbidly obese until he was an old man.

View attachment 365569

Here's an amusing article about his horrendous over eating. https://www.todayifoundout.com/index.php/2012/11/the-odd-eating-habits-of-marlon-brando/
Sounds like he had issues with binge eating and crash dieting quite early in life.

Jinkies, I always forget he lived so much longer, what with him being one of the rare actors who retired, like Connery.

 

[AliceP]

@Saxena107 I'll echo what others have said – 1/4" in the shoulders on a jacket does not make a difference. But if we're talking about watches, bracelets, and shoes, 1/4" does make a difference. It's all relative!

 

[Saxena107]

@Saxena107 I'll echo what others have said – 1/4" in the shoulders on a jacket does not make a difference. But if we're talking about watches, bracelets, and shoes, 1/4" does make a difference. It's all relative!

Thank you that infos very helpful.

 

[navetsea]

Okay, that is a beautiful jacket. I love undyed natural leather that tans in the sun & develops a patina with wear.

I thought vachetta & the like were only used in handbags and wallets and sometimes shoes but this is gorgeous. May I ask the maker?

thank you, it was a custom order locally in my country based on my doodle
I answered a bit more detailed here:
What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?