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GauchoGermanico

New in Town
Messages
5
Good Morning !☕

Been reading & perusing quietly in the background, since my research and ultimate purchase of my Schott 618HH almost three years ago (…wow…) on November 28, 2023 (pic below). Three years later, I’m considering a Vanson C-2 or Thurnderbird….not because I don’t love the horsehide in my Schott, but because I’m now looking for something that not only comes close to the elusive Hero Cut of the Durable, but will also protect me as much as possible when riding - if (God forbid) things go south or sideways. Hence I’m re-focused on the Vanson.

Just for public consumption & comparison, I’m sharing my research & journey here, hoping it informs & helps

First, the “Gold Standard” or “North Star” of The Durable, in size 40, credit to dmoser1978 who has this jacket in his collection:

Durable 40:
P2P: 21"
Waist: 18"
Back Length: 22"
Sleeve shoulder seam to end: 23"
Middle collar to sleeve end: 34"
Shoulder: 21”
Taper: 3"


SCHOTT N.Y.C. - 618HH: Horsehide Perfecto® - 46
I had to size up dramatically for this jacket, due to the "restrictive shoulders & chest” as Tom71 cited. Same experience with my body, but “your mileage may vary." Also, I’m personally still trying to come as close as possible to the “Holy Grail Hero Cut” look of The Durable, and I wanted enough room in the chest to allow for my thickest hoodie. As a result, I’ve got enough room in the waist of this jacket that I’ve considered having it professionally tailored/tapered.

P2P: 24.25”
Waist: 22”
Back Length: 25”
Sleeve shoulder seam to end: 26”
Middle collar to sleeve end: 36”
Shoulder: 19.5”
Taper: 2.25”

Of all the jackets hagning in my collection (both riding gear and not), my personal “North Star” whose proportions come as close as possible to the Durable and which I enjoy wearing the most:

P2P: 24.25”
Waist: 21”
Back Length: 24.5”
Sleeve shoulder seam to end: 25”
Middle collar to sleeve end: 35”
Shoulder: 20.5”
Taper: 3.25"


As I understand it, the specs on the Vanson C-2 or Thunderbird in a 42 are:
P2P: 23.5”
Waist: 21”
Back Length: 24.5”
Sleeve shoulder seam to end: n/a
Middle collar to sleeve end: 35”
Shoulder: n/a
Taper: 2.5”


Unlike some other posters, who may have different proportions: I’ve always preferred the shorter center back length & shorter (resaonable) sleeves on a motorcycle jacket, especially since both of my bikes are cruisers.
Hoping that the Vanson be the instersection of “Durable Hero Cut + High Quality American Made Leather + Certified PPE C-2 Riding Gear”

That being said, I am concerned about the “hides” comment above, if anyone can elaborate/embellish more. I know from my initial research that a few years ago Vanson faced challenges getting American hides, and as of this writing, their website currently cites: “Each Vanson is designed, engineered, cut and hand made in the U.S.A. of imported and domestic materials."

After speaking to a few local veteran Vanson retailers, I’m planning on a road trip to Vanson in the next few weeks to have them measure & fit me, giving consideration to the body armor, which they are more than happy to install, but treat as a “Custom” order.
If that’s the case, without seeing them in person yet, I’m envisioning my custom to be an armored Thunderbird with the Brass Hardware of the C-2

The journey continues….

View attachment 816761
I hope you find your holy grail of Jackets! Share your experience once you get to visit Vanson!

In regards to the meassurements of your Schott, the shoulder width you shared is the cross shoulder right? It's adevertised on Schott's page as 20.5''. Is it really one inch shorter in reality? It's quite a big difference!
 

Tom71

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,057
Location
Europe
Both look great! Del's one looks quite good indeed, but the price might be too high for me considering the importation.

Could I kindly ask you about the cross shoulder meassurment of your size 44 Schott? I've been comparing the meassurements of a Jacket I have, which fits quite well and it is smaller by a bit in every part when compared to the size 44 that Schott has on their web. So I think that maybe I'm closer to a 44 than a 46. Problem is that my jacket has exactly the same cross shoulder width as Schott's one, but if by any reasson Schott's real cross shoulder size is shorter... then the jacket could not fit me (depending how off the meassurement of the website is).

I have posted detalied info including measurements in the following thread


I will re-measure later today an post a picture for you to see how I do it.
 

RJD257

New in Town
Messages
27
I hope you find your holy grail of Jackets! Share your experience once you get to visit Vanson!

In regards to the meassurements of your Schott, the shoulder width you shared is the cross shoulder right? It's adevertised on Schott's page as 20.5''. Is it really one inch shorter in reality? It's quite a big difference!
Just remeasured my SCHOTT N.Y.C. - 618HH: Horsehide Perfecto® - 46 this morning, and the tape tells the tale.
19.5" from end of epaulet to end of epaulet. (see pic below)

Over the past few years, I've lost track of how many jackets, jeans, etc that I've tried on, and two garments that are labelled as the same size, from the same manufacturer can feel entirely different on your body as the result of "acceptable tolerances." I literally have two of the same jacket model, same pattern, same manufacturer same size, different colors - one fits me ""snug" the other feels "blousy" or "drapey."

My gorgeous goddess of a girlfriend, who used to work for a couture designer has said for years that "you just have to try it on, and if you find something that fits your body perfectly - that's the one you walk out with."

And again - if we're judging jackets by The Durable as "The North Star" or "Gold Standard" - the Schott (...even in their size 46...) comes in an inch and a half shy of the Durable's Hero Cut in their size 40.... But it's not all in the wide shoulders, it's also in the length of the torso, and the taper from P2P down to waist. And of course your unique body...

Promise I'll share the road trip here in this thread, for those who may be even further away then I am from Vanson's HQ.

And enjoy your own personal journey / adventure of trying on all those jackets until you find YOUR "Holy Grail" !

View attachment IMG_2289.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Tom71

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,057
Location
Europe
I have posted detalied info including measurements in the following thread

[/URL]

I will re-measure later today an post a picture for you to see how I do it.

Re-measured and confirm that shoulder is 18,7”-18,9” depending on stretch I apply.

IMG_2295.jpeg
 

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