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German & Austrian Hutmachers

Messages
17,521
Location
Maryland
Manfred, Thanks! I couldn't make out some of the handwriting. By the way really great to see your A. Croizier, Chazelles sur Lyon France Melone in action!
 
Messages
17,521
Location
Maryland
PH. Möckel Hutfabrik, Homburg vor der Höhe, Hoflieferant Sr. Maj. d. Kaisers u. Königs (Austria) und Sr. Maj. d. Königs v. England, measures about 59cm, 130 grams, probably pre WWI. In very good condition except for slight damage to the sweatband. Also rare stitched liner (only seen this once before) on a stiff felt hat. PH. Möckel Hutfabrik (1806) made the original Homburg style hat for King Edward the VII of England. I have only come across two old Möckels' (another Melone and Top Hat) and they were in very bad condition.

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Messages
17,521
Location
Maryland
Manfred, Thanks! It turned out to be in better condition than I thought it would be based on the auction photos. Now I need to find a Möckel Homburg style hat. :)
 

mikespens

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,913
Location
Tacoma, Wa
Congratulations Steve, an amazing find to add to your museum. Love seeing those hand signed tags. Is it my imagination or is the brim ribbon treatment elliptical?
 
Messages
17,521
Location
Maryland
Carl Kellner Hamburg, 58cm, probably 1930s or older. I believe this hat could have been made by J. Hückel´s Söhne (modified? see below) based on what is left of the paper label. This is a very stiff heavy weight felt (nothing to do with quality) which probably has to do with the 'Derby' model name (stiffer soft felt hat). The crown tip patch is missing but the triangle shape is similar to the Carl Kellner Hamburg logo. Some minor felt issues that are made more apparent by the lighter felt color.

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Appears this hat was modified because of the felt strip stitched to the crown about one inch above the brim line was added after paper label. If so the ribbon might not be original.

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mikespens

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,913
Location
Tacoma, Wa
"Appears this hat was modified because of the felt strip stitched to the crown about one inch above the brim line was added after paper label. If so the ribbon might not be original."

Steve, am I seeing a felt spacer raising the crown? That's bizzarre!
 
Messages
17,521
Location
Maryland
Mike, Yes you are correct. Definitely a lot of hand stitch work. :) The ribbon is from a later time period so my guess is the modification took place in the 1950s or later. I will have to see if I can find out more about it.
 

randooch

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,869
Location
Ukiah, California
Mike, Yes you are correct. Definitely a lot of hand stitch work. :) The ribbon is from a later time period so my guess is the modification took place in the 1950s or later. I will have to see if I can find out more about it.
Is that a first on The Lounge? It would have been the most frugal way to stay abreast of changing styles, I suppose. That's remarkable.
 
Messages
17,521
Location
Maryland
Randal, I haven't seen anything like it before. The hat was setup later (1980s?) in a military crease. I have a another hat from the same seller that was also set up this way that I will post in a bit.
 
Messages
17,521
Location
Maryland
Echter Borsalino, size 5 1/2 Point, probably 1930s. This Echter Borsalino is from the same seller and also later (1980s?) setup in a military crease. It was also sold by Carl Kellner Hamburg (I have a some other hats from this shop). The felt is very thick and stiff which is not usually associated with Borsalinos. I have no idea if this stiffness is a later result of trying to make into a military style hat. Unfortunately the sweatband (a real beauty) is damaged but over all the hat is in good shape. I think the bow is especially nice and also the tip patch.

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