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Footwear to go with our jackets

milkbaby

New in Town
Messages
11
They protect a boots tongue from being worn into by the laces, especially when using a particularly durable lace which can be more prone to doing this.
They can also add a tad bit of thickness to the tongue and help snug up a fit just a little.
I can understand not liking the look ( I don't like dress boots or cap toes ), but most people can actually benefit from them at least to some degree.

I have low instep and skinny ankles, so kilties often help snug up that area. My feet are like duck feet, wide up front and low volume, so kilties help refine the fit, and I personally love the look too!
 

milkbaby

New in Town
Messages
11
20250117_120438.jpg
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,926
Location
East Java
I'm in the process of getting my first engineer boots, nothing fancy though just local bootmaker and just local cowhide... and ugh I picked longer and flatter toes like chelsea boots, I know it won't look like the real deal but I don't think cowhide will look good on rounder/ fuller toes since it won't roll and will only crease, it's hand welted but on the more budget side of thing because my budget for it is not much and I want 4cm heelstack
 

Herrvallmo

A-List Customer
Messages
453
Location
Sweden
I'm in the process of getting my first engineer boots, nothing fancy though just local bootmaker and just local cowhide... and ugh I picked longer and flatter toes like chelsea boots, I know it won't look like the real deal but I don't think cowhide will look good on rounder/ fuller toes since it won't roll and will only crease, it's hand welted but on the more budget side of thing because my budget for it is not much and I want 4cm heelstack
I've seen some cowhide engineers with amazing rolls/patina so I wouldn't write of cowhide just like that :)

Did you design the boots yourself @navetsea? love your jackets so I'm very curious what you would cook up if designing boots :D

Cheers mate
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,926
Location
East Java
I've seen some cowhide engineers with amazing rolls/patina so I wouldn't write of cowhide just like that :)

Did you design the boots yourself @navetsea? love your jackets so I'm very curious what you would cook up if designing boots :D

Cheers mate
Thanks, I did draw my preference, but due to the nature of the lower price I have lower expectation and not sure how close or far it would follow my drawing :) but I shall make peace with it, what I know I picked oxblood oilpull cowhide and I want the side of the sole and welt to be lightly stained black, and I wanted the square edge of the outsole to be profiled or trimmed into a angle all around, I wanted logger heel with some shelf on the back to hold the hem of the pants kinda like spur shelf thing, 270 gyw, but I don't know if they use machine or actually hand welt. I will show the drawing once I accept the boots so it won't create any fake expectation since I will wear whatever it would be and won't be hypercritical about it :)
 

Herrvallmo

A-List Customer
Messages
453
Location
Sweden
Thanks, I did draw my preference, but due to the nature of the lower price I have lower expectation and not sure how close or far it would follow my drawing :) but I shall make peace with it, what I know I picked oxblood oilpull cowhide and I want the side of the sole and welt to be lightly stained black, and I wanted the square edge of the outsole to be profiled or trimmed into a angle all around, I wanted logger heel with some shelf on the back to hold the hem of the pants kinda like spur shelf thing, 270 gyw, but I don't know if they use machine or actually hand welt. I will show the drawing once I accept the boots so it won't create any fake expectation since I will wear whatever it would be and won't be hypercritical about it :)
Please do show when you are ready mate, I'm very interested :) but from what you wrote I think it'll be a winner, oxblood/burgundy matches amazing with most colors(oxblood + black is a personal favorite of mine).

Cheers and have a great weekend!
 
Last edited:

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,230
Location
London, UK
They protect a boots tongue from being worn into by the laces, especially when using a particularly durable lace which can be more prone to doing this.
They can also add a tad bit of thickness to the tongue and help snug up a fit just a little.
I can understand not liking the look ( I don't like dress boots or cap toes ), but most people can actually benefit from them at least to some degree.

They're something I was never really aware of until I started moving in these circles. Obviously not something you typically see on your average footwear these days - an easy thing to exclude when building a boot to a price point. I'd be interested to try some at some stage, though, having become more aware over the years of their utilitarian function. They're one of those thing that I very much did not cared for the look of until I started to appreciate their function more, now I rather like them. They are of course utilitarian to a point - I mean, my Iron Rangers are now about a dozen years old. The tongues on those are very much shaped to where my laces fall. Nothing I'd call 'damage', but you can see the imprint of the laces and the tongues are a darker colour where they fall (noticeable as my IRS are in the 'Amber' colour). I'm planning to pick up a pair in black in the next year or so; it would be interesting to experiment with a kiltie on those to compare. I've not thought before about the idea of them helping snug up a boot just a little (I've only really had than need with penny loafers and engineer boots), but I can see that coming into play. The idea of them being protective would make a lot of sense where - as you note - the tongue is made deliberately softer.


I finally received the Rose Anvil Kilties for my USGI ICW boots ( they were on vacation) and I think they were a good addition.
View attachment 674544
I just didn't want these to look like combat boots, and I think these achieved that.

Soon as I scrolled down far enough to see that first shot, my first thought was how significantly these demiitarise the look - before I saw your comment that that was the intent. Job very much done! I've been tempted to try a pair of the ww2 style brown jump boots before now - that might well be something I'll try with those.
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,926
Location
East Java
Please do show when you are ready mate, I'm very interested :) but from what you wrote I think it'll be a winner, oxblood/burgundy matches amazing with most colors(oxblood + black is a personal favorite of mine).

Cheers and have a great weekend!
I will, thanks,
yes I agree, I imagine burgundy and black would look proper with everything from denim to olive cargo, to earth colored corduroys and light ecru or white , even grey or black pants too, and it doesn't have to pick side with either with brown or black group of leather so it could be paired with both. I hope that it fits because I never wear "jackboots" style before.
you too man have a great weekend
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,926
Location
East Java
The maker send me pic before finishing, and i kind of love the silhouette, the heel counter is very generous compared to things i draw but i kinda love it too, it makes the side kind of pulled together and more supported, and i kind of love the toes too has some western vibes to it, i asked for logger heel but at this stage they show this western tapered heel it still can be finished with curve but i like it this way, looks more fitting with all the other elements like the rear shelf i asked to break my pants against, and i love the toespring
The v gusset is the most generous i ever see on engineer, perhaps he is afraid of customer complains about their foot cant get into the boots and ask for rebuild and stuff, but it the shaft looks slim and waisted above the ankle so perhaps the gusset size is justified.

in short it looks 65% of my drawing but i like it anyway and i will like it more after the sole is lightly blackened
Screenshot_20250127_204319_Gallery.jpg
27012025084211_1.jpg
20250120_114342.jpg
please don't look at the stitching, it's very budget friendly engineer and hand lasted and hand welted, and finished within 10 days
 
Last edited:

red devil

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,987
Location
London
The maker send me pic before finishing, and i kind of love the silhouette, the heel counter is very generous compared to things i draw but i kinda love it too, it makes the side kind of pulled together and more supported, and i kind of love the toes too has some western vibes to it, i asked for logger heel but at this stage they show this western tapered heel it still can be finished with curve but i like it this way, looks more fitting with all the other elements like the rear shelf i asked to break my pants against, and i love the toespring
The v gusset is the most generous i ever see on engineer, perhaps he is afraid of customer complains about their foot cant get into the boots and ask for rebuild and stuff, but it the shaft looks slim and waisted above the ankle so perhaps the gusset size is justified.

in short it looks 65% of my drawing but i like it anyway and i will like it more after the sole is lightly blackened
View attachment 676938
View attachment 676939
View attachment 676949
please don't look at the stitching, it's very budget friendly engineer and hand lasted and hand welted, and finished within 10 days

This is looking good overall :D
 

Bennarion

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,372
The maker send me pic before finishing, and i kind of love the silhouette, the heel counter is very generous compared to things i draw but i kinda love it too, it makes the side kind of pulled together and more supported, and i kind of love the toes too has some western vibes to it, i asked for logger heel but at this stage they show this western tapered heel it still can be finished with curve but i like it this way, looks more fitting with all the other elements like the rear shelf i asked to break my pants against, and i love the toespring
The v gusset is the most generous i ever see on engineer, perhaps he is afraid of customer complains about their foot cant get into the boots and ask for rebuild and stuff, but it the shaft looks slim and waisted above the ankle so perhaps the gusset size is justified.

in short it looks 65% of my drawing but i like it anyway and i will like it more after the sole is lightly blackened
View attachment 676938
View attachment 676939
View attachment 676949
please don't look at the stitching, it's very budget friendly engineer and hand lasted and hand welted, and finished within 10 days
It's a great project. I like your drawing
 

cbez

One Too Many
Messages
1,913
Location
CA
Not bad for a test run. I like the proportions of the top adjuster and counter better in your drawing.

Maybe in the future you could provide rough measurements to help them.
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,926
Location
East Java
I will wear and see if this works with my jeans and style, and if the leather suffice, i got a feeling i'm going to like the outline silhouette and the overall look which is the important part for me to give it a full wear, by the time i need a resole i will send it back with letter of things i like, to be used as a reference to build a better pair... i paid like 1/3 of benzein for a 270 handwelted pair and 24 cm/ 9.4" tall shaft per my spec almost a 10", 4cm heelstack and its 10 days express, cant really get upset about anything, if not for heelcounter and the v cut, i think i could settle with it until the upper break down, all in all i got one of a kind engineer that looks like no other.
 

Herrvallmo

A-List Customer
Messages
453
Location
Sweden
The maker send me pic before finishing, and i kind of love the silhouette, the heel counter is very generous compared to things i draw but i kinda love it too, it makes the side kind of pulled together and more supported, and i kind of love the toes too has some western vibes to it, i asked for logger heel but at this stage they show this western tapered heel it still can be finished with curve but i like it this way, looks more fitting with all the other elements like the rear shelf i asked to break my pants against, and i love the toespring
The v gusset is the most generous i ever see on engineer, perhaps he is afraid of customer complains about their foot cant get into the boots and ask for rebuild and stuff, but it the shaft looks slim and waisted above the ankle so perhaps the gusset size is justified.

in short it looks 65% of my drawing but i like it anyway and i will like it more after the sole is lightly blackened
View attachment 676938
View attachment 676939
View attachment 676949
please don't look at the stitching, it's very budget friendly engineer and hand lasted and hand welted, and finished within 10 days
Looks great man! but holy moly that "sketch/design" is insanely good! You sure have a real knack for that mate :D

Cheers!
 
Last edited:

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,960
Location
Europe
The maker send me pic before finishing, and i kind of love the silhouette, the heel counter is very generous compared to things i draw but i kinda love it too, it makes the side kind of pulled together and more supported, and i kind of love the toes too has some western vibes to it, i asked for logger heel but at this stage they show this western tapered heel it still can be finished with curve but i like it this way, looks more fitting with all the other elements like the rear shelf i asked to break my pants against, and i love the toespring
The v gusset is the most generous i ever see on engineer, perhaps he is afraid of customer complains about their foot cant get into the boots and ask for rebuild and stuff, but it the shaft looks slim and waisted above the ankle so perhaps the gusset size is justified.

in short it looks 65% of my drawing but i like it anyway and i will like it more after the sole is lightly blackened
View attachment 676938
View attachment 676939
View attachment 676949
please don't look at the stitching, it's very budget friendly engineer and hand lasted and hand welted, and finished within 10 days

I think it looks great, and I dig the deviations from the "traditional" look. It´s really great that you make a project out of your purchases!

As to stitching: I kind of get that people OCD over such details when paying top dollar on a luxury item. In terms of "real work-wear" durability and functionality beat stitch-count and straight lines 7 days of the week.
 

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