FIVESTAR LEATHER CONTACTS

[TartuWolf]

Regarding the inner pockets - the openings are made of folded leather, which means you basically have 4 layers of EXTRA bulk on top of the 2 layers of existing leather (front outer panel + front inner panel). The result is 6 layers of leather concentrated in a small space, which not only can be seen from outside on the front but also can be clearly felt. Would chose a different configuration next time.

Similar with cuffs - way too much leather and bulk at the cuff panels. I would skip the whole wrist cuff panel and do a plain sleeve if you want maximum simplicity and minimal bulk. On the other hand I'm going for a wrist cuff with buttons on my Aero order, wonder how that will turn out.

Well I see two ways that sleeves can work in terms of mobility:
A. You have long enough sleeves that have creased and work kind of like an accordion as you stretch them forward or sideways + some shoulders/back gussets. This allows your cuff to stay where it is but your movement is still not restricted. My Vanson works like that.
B . You have slippery enough sleeves (+some of the above hopefully) that your arms slide around relatively freely in the sleeves, cuffs also move in relation to your wrists, but your movement is not restricted. Slippery and wider sleeves help with this.
In my case I have none of that - I stretch my arms forward and they get caught by the sleeve material (+ my mistake specifying the forearm too narrow..) and get stuck. Nothing at the shoulders or the upper back in terms of movement enhancing features to save me.
For me ideal is option A, but option B can work as well.

Take everything I say with a grain of salt / as an opinion, I'm not one of the seniors here, I'm just learning and sharing my thoughts / experience

 

[ROOK ALLURES]

Regarding the inner pockets - the openings are made of folded leather, which means you basically have 4 layers of EXTRA bulk on top of the 2 layers of existing leather (front outer panel + front inner panel). The result is 6 layers of leather concentrated in a small space, which not only can be seen from outside on the front but also can be clearly felt. Would chose a different configuration next time.

Similar with cuffs - way too much leather and bulk at the cuff panels. I would skip the whole wrist cuff panel and do a plain sleeve if you want maximum simplicity and minimal bulk. On the other hand I'm going for a wrist cuff with buttons on my Aero order, wonder how that will turn out.

Well I see two ways that sleeves can work in terms of mobility:
A. You have long enough sleeves that have creased and work kind of like an accordion as you stretch them forward or sideways + some shoulders/back gussets. This allows your cuff to stay where it is but your movement is still not restricted. My Vanson works like that.
B . You have slippery enough sleeves (+some of the above hopefully) that your arms slide around relatively freely in the sleeves, cuffs also move in relation to your wrists, but your movement is not restricted. Slippery and wider sleeves help with this.
In my case I have none of that - I stretch my arms forward and they get caught by the sleeve material (+ my mistake specifying the forearm too narrow..) and get stuck. Nothing at the shoulders or the upper back in terms of movement enhancing features to save me.
For me ideal is option A, but option B can work as well.

Take everything I say with a grain of salt / as an opinion, I'm not one of the seniors here, I'm just learning and sharing my thoughts / experience

Thanks again. In your text is the reason why maybe I won't change the sleeves width... I hate when sleeves don't slide properly and I hate jackets that make me feel like I'm in a straitjacket... Have a couple on my closet that I don't wear for that reason... Two of my jackets are a Schott 141, which I use mainly to ride and a G1 by Cockpit USA. Both inner lining sleeves on these jackets are made out satin fabric, black and dark brown, respectively. Not the most eye catching for sure, but one thing I really like is the freshness of this material (I live in Portugal, which can be very hot during Spring and Summer time) and the way arms gentle slide inside the sleeves, so I guess I will go with satin again, at least on sleeves. Now I understand what you were referring to with the inner pockets... I have that problem with a Helston's I have (attached picture)... It looks pretty nice, but too much leather in the inside pockets will add extra volume and weight and with time may even deform the jacket, specially if one carries heavy stuff inside. Guess I'll go only for one simple pocket on the left side or no inside pocket at all... Thanks for your insights TartuWolf. They were pretty helpful! Regards!

 

[ROOK ALLURES]

I received a jacket last week in premium waxed goat. It's not as shiny as it would appear in my opinion. Since the temperature dropped a little I had a chance to wear the jacket, the sleeves already are breaking in nicely. I'll try to post some pictures tomorrow

Hi! Can you show the pics? Thanks!

 

[Johhnyheuvel]

Hi! Can you show the pics? Thanks!

Made some pics after work. Had maybe 2 hours of wear in total, arm creases are developing nicely. The jacket is less shiny as the pictures make it appear.

 

[ROOK ALLURES]

Pretty nice jacket and yes the hide is not too shiny... Quite similar to Schott 688, one of my all time faves. How does it fit? Is a regular model or did you ask it with some modifications? Thank you!

 

[Johhnyheuvel]

Pretty nice jacket and yes the hide is not too shiny... Quite similar to Schott 688, one of my all time faves. How does it fit? Is a regular model or did you ask it with some modifications? Thank you!

Indeed it looks similar to the 688, although I didn't even knew that model. My jacket is the 1930 caferacer model (https://www.fivestarleather.us/products/civilian-vintage-1930s-classic-men-real-leather-jacket) with my own measurements and 1 slanted chest pocket instead of 2 horizontal.

The fit is quite slim which is something I'm really into.

 

[ROOK ALLURES]

Indeed it looks similar to the 688, although I didn't even knew that model. My jacket is the 1930 caferacer model (https://www.fivestarleather.us/products/civilian-vintage-1930s-classic-men-real-leather-jacket) with my own measurements and 1 slanted chest pocket instead of 2 horizontal.

The fit is quite slim which is something I'm really into.
View attachment 530227

Ah, ok... Pretty minimal. I'm a single chest pocket guy either. Lots of brands from the era have their own interpretation of that model. I believe it's one of the most popular ever. Are you happy with the jacket? I'm about to order mine soon... Thanks!

 

[ROOK ALLURES]

Thank you TartuWolf! Huge help you gave me! Why do you say the inner pockets ruined the front a bit? Regarding the sleeves, guess I'm going to choose just with wrist cuff panels and skip the buttons. I like practical and simple jackets... Despite everything you mentioned, your jacket is a bless for the eyes and really looks well built... You say the lining was a bad choice for the sleeves, because it won't allowed arms to slide inside the sleeves or for any other reason? Will ask for striation grain, for sure. Looks great! Thanks a lot!

Hi again TartuWolf. Do you remember if you paid more for the extra leather panel on the inner lining bottom? And how much did they charged you for all modifications? Communication is a bit slow with them... Thanks!

 

[Johhnyheuvel]

Ah, ok... Pretty minimal. I'm a single chest pocket guy either. Lots of brands from the era have their own interpretation of that model. I believe it's one of the most popular ever. Are you happy with the jacket? I'm about to order mine soon... Thanks!

I'm really happy. And I love the design of it.

 

[TartuWolf]

@ROOK ALLURES
My order was a fully custom project. I sent them a lot of photos and measurements. They had to create the pattern from scratch / from photos.
Total cost (with shipping) was ~350$.
Now you can get it for ~200$ : https://www.fivestarleather.us/products/fivestar-leather-half-belt-goat-leather-black-jacket
I would say ~50$ was the shipping. ~100$ was the pattern. ~200$ was the actual jacket.
I think the jacket is worth 200$, but I'm not too sure it is worth 300$. Mainly because of restrictive mobility due to wrong sleeve lining, too narrow sleeves, too low armholes and no mobility features. If those 4 things were done properly (mostly my own fault) it would be worth 300$ that I paid for it.
But that's the story with 5* - incredible deal if you play your cards right.

I don't think the extra leather panel on the inner lining bottom hem was any extra.
One quote from Shawn regarding cost:
"Can I ask what makes this project 350$ instead of the usual 150-250$ jackets on your website? I guess simply because it is a custom order?"
"
Dear Sir
Once I check your detailed file than below things makes this project cost up
Complete custom pattern
As you have a lot of changing and accuracy to follow so we have to develop its pattern totally for this jacket, than the stitching will be followed according to your desired measures at each level, the time we can make 3 simular jackets we will make only this single jacket.
You required a 1.4 mm thick leather which is although have a little extra cost and a little extra weight as well during shipping, which will add the $ as well.
To cut the grain you requested we have to sort the skins, and may we have to check 100 skins to make collect the required grain you are looking for, also the leather cutting average will increase.
"

If I would order from them again I'd pick an existing pattern that I like and give them all my measurements. Even then you are not guaranteed to get what you ordered as they have a tendency to skew the measuring when sending QC pictures - they measure one way, it turns out quite different when the jacket arrives and you measure yourself.
On the flipside if it is too off then they do offer to make thing right and redo the jacket for lower cost or fix the existing one.
Picking a pattern/model from existing ones is a bit tricky, as some of them are much better than others.
I would pick this one if I was ordering one right now : https://www.fivestarleather.us/products/vintage-d-pocket-road-master-men-jacket-black-steerhide

Anyway, 5* is a fun and (relatively) cheap gamble in the leather jacket world.

 

[ROOK ALLURES]

I'm really happy. And I love the design of it.

thaks!

 

[ROOK ALLURES]

@ROOK ALLURES
My order was a fully custom project. I sent them a lot of photos and measurements. They had to create the pattern from scratch / from photos.
Total cost (with shipping) was ~350$.
Now you can get it for ~200$ : https://www.fivestarleather.us/products/fivestar-leather-half-belt-goat-leather-black-jacket
I would say ~50$ was the shipping. ~100$ was the pattern. ~200$ was the actual jacket.
I think the jacket is worth 200$, but I'm not too sure it is worth 300$. Mainly because of restrictive mobility due to wrong sleeve lining, too narrow sleeves, too low armholes and no mobility features. If those 4 things were done properly (mostly my own fault) it would be worth 300$ that I paid for it.
But that's the story with 5* - incredible deal if you play your cards right.

I don't think the extra leather panel on the inner lining bottom hem was any extra.
One quote from Shawn regarding cost:
"Can I ask what makes this project 350$ instead of the usual 150-250$ jackets on your website? I guess simply because it is a custom order?"
"
Dear Sir
Once I check your detailed file than below things makes this project cost up
Complete custom pattern
As you have a lot of changing and accuracy to follow so we have to develop its pattern totally for this jacket, than the stitching will be followed according to your desired measures at each level, the time we can make 3 simular jackets we will make only this single jacket.
You required a 1.4 mm thick leather which is although have a little extra cost and a little extra weight as well during shipping, which will add the $ as well.
To cut the grain you requested we have to sort the skins, and may we have to check 100 skins to make collect the required grain you are looking for, also the leather cutting average will increase.
"

If I would order from them again I'd pick an existing pattern that I like and give them all my measurements. Even then you are not guaranteed to get what you ordered as they have a tendency to skew the measuring when sending QC pictures - they measure one way, it turns out quite different when the jacket arrives and you measure yourself.
On the flipside if it is too off then they do offer to make thing right and redo the jacket for lower cost or fix the existing one.
Picking a pattern/model from existing ones is a bit tricky, as some of them are much better than others.
I would pick this one if I was ordering one right now : https://www.fivestarleather.us/products/vintage-d-pocket-road-master-men-jacket-black-steerhide

Anyway, 5* is a fun and (relatively) cheap gamble in the leather jacket world.

Thanks for your quite accurate message. You seem to value much of the things I also value in a leather jacket. The one I'm about to order is based in one of his models with minor changes, so maybe I'll be luckier with the price, though I'm also asking for top grain quality hide...
The reason I'm not asking for a fully custom jacket was actually referred by you. Coming out with a complete new pattern/ template, respecting the body measurements and physical characteristics of a person, without being able to try it and adjust it is something pretty difficult and with potential error result, but tempting... And I'm with you – paying 350 for a jacket with several issues may not be worth it... And that uneven in taking measurements can be disastrous, that's why I'm creating a PDF file with all my considerations, measurements and doubts (they must be considering me a pain in the ass right now ). But I believe it's the only way to take less risks...
Pretty curious with the final result, but I'm sure that if I like it, it will be an all year armor for years to come. My fave jacket, also happens to be the oldest and the one I say I will never get rid of....
Thanks for your time, it helped me to focus in some issues.

 

[TartuWolf]

@ROOK ALLURES
Another thing to note is that you will get an upcharge based on what leather you pick. It is general consensus here that thick premium goat is the top choice from 5*. And it has no upcharge. Steerhide costs more. Horsehide even more. And I got a small charge for asking to look for hides with a lot of striation grain.

Which model are you picking?

Yeah I would not go fully custom again. Mostly because I don't know that well what I'm doing and a jacket is not only a sum of it's measurements. I think this model is constricting around the shoulders and sleeves also because of the angles and rotation that they got wrong. Someone on this forum once said that they make 2d jackets instead of 3d ones, that's why the result is so relatively poor.

Like many have said before - 5* is best at copying - you send them an existing jacket of any type (leather, denim, wool) and they make an exact copy with all the measurements and the angles. " My fave jacket, also happens to be the oldest and the one I say I will never get rid of" - might be a good candidate for this expertise of theirs.

This copying thing is also reason why their military jackets are regarded to be much much better than the civilian ones - they actually copied originals. With the civilian ones you really need to know which one was copied (or designed by a qualified/expert TFL member) and which ones are just rather poorly created from photos and ideas (like mine).

"that's why I'm creating a PDF file with all my considerations, measurements and doubts" - yes I did exactly the same, can give you the PDF if you want for reference. And, in a way, each one of us who want very specific stuff for one jacket is a pain in the ass for them as they mostly work with mass orders netting them much better profit than our individual ones.

"it will be an all year armor for years to come" - go for the 2mm hides that he has, then you will know the meaning of armor! There are some epic/hilarious examples in the main 5* thread. Oh boy is that a long thread..

 

[ROOK ALLURES]

Thanks! The model I´m about to order is the ROAD MASTER https://www.fivestarleather.us/cdn/shop/products/MAINFRONT_1024x1024.jpg?v=1625037240 in Premium waxed goat, with minor changes: brass zippers on chest and side pockets, buckles on the back with a slightly larger bottom's back panel and haven't decide about the cuffs yet, but not with horn buttons, because I want something quite practical, maybe like the one's used in most of the post war civilian jackets (see attached picture) — double panel, just in the sleeve front, or even zippers. I had a jacket like that that I sold some time ago. Nothing to fancy...
What is your name? I was thinking about asking them to find me the same hide you did and referring your name, if you don't mind. Is it to heavy and thick?
And yes, check your PDF out, would help me to figure if I'm missing some important issues. I'll be leaving in a couple of hours for a motorcycle road trip and will come back on monday, so no hurries on that. Will rest my eyes from computers for a while... Thanks again. Your inputs were quite helpful!

 

[TartuWolf]

@ROOK ALLURES
I would highly recommend adding at least shoulder gussets if that would not cost too much extra.

You can find the pdf here : https://docs.google.com/document/d/1u3EIAOkCyFu4sKfH4cWc4YyQNhoav8qqneKdQxUJh6Q/edit?usp=sharing

Just ask for "Premium Semi Veg Tanned Goatskin - Black - 1.4mm - Waxed" and Shawn should know what you are talking about.
If you want to reference me just say the guy from Estonia. I doubt anyone apart from me has ever ordered from 5* to Estonia.

I would not say this leather is too heavy or thick. But it's a personal preference. I dislike thin and flimsy leather - reminds me of the all the fashion jackets that I want to get away from with this hobby.
For me ideally the leather is thick (1.3-1.5mm) and pliable (like got in this example) or thinner (1.1-1.3mm) and stiffer (ex horsehide). But my experience is very limited and I'm still learning / acquiring a taste.

Enjoy your moto trip! Maybe someday I'll have a moto as well..

 

[ROOK ALLURES]

Hi again. Already have two jackets with gussets, although they improve facility in movements a lot, they tend to be bulky and don't lay flatten and I want a clean minimal look for the back. If this jacket was meant to ride I would probably go for the gussets.
Thank you for your PDF, I'm going to check it (I'm not into thin leather as well). The motorcycle trip was awesome, some 600Km with excellent weather. Thanks and regards!

 

[ROOK ALLURES]

Hi again. Already have two jackets with gussets, although they improve facility in movements a lot, they tend to be bulky and don't lay flatten and I want a clean minimal look for the back. If this jacket was meant to ride I would probably go for the gussets.
Thank you for your PDF, I'm going to check it (I'm not into thin leather as well). The motorcycle trip was awesome, some 600Km with excellent weather. Thanks and regards!

Hey! ordered it already. Were Five Star accurate with your provided measurements? That's an issue I take quite seriously...
Thanks!

 

[TartuWolf]

@ROOK ALLURES
Hey! Can't wait to see the outcome of your order, especially in terms of fit.

Well they were mostly accurate, but also inaccurate in several different ways.
1 . They completely screwed up the chest pocket measurements, making it rather useless for anything else than keys. So that's a total blunder.
2 . They tend to skew (either intentionally or not) the measurements by how they measure. For example they measured my pit-to-pit as ~49 in QC photos, but I measured them ~51 when I got it. Or armhole size they measured ~24 while I get ~26.
3 . In some cases it's quite important WHERE do you measure. A good example is forearm width. Need to clearly specify how far up from the cuff is the forearm width.

But also keep in mind a few things:
1 . Measuring a jacket is rather tricky, especially when we talk about thick leather. It's not an exact science. Some margin of error must be expected not only in production but also in measuring.
2 . You're buying the cheapest "real" leather jacket out there (new), should adjust your expectations accordingly.

Hope this helps!

 

[ROOK ALLURES]

Thank you! I'm with you (3 . In some cases it's quite important WHERE do you measure.). That's why I send them pics of how I did it. So, they tend to skew it... Pit to pit., shoulder to shoulder and arm holes are very important measurements and if not exact, it can ruin the jacket in way that you can't wear it at all, just because it won't fit you. I'm slim but with large shoulders. Maybe I should ask for a little bit more room around shoulders, armpits and chest... This is rather tricky indeed... The role model I used as also thick leather, but to be honest I don't know which one is thicker... And I definitely dislike too trimmed jackets.
I'm very curious as well and a little afraid also...

 

[Marc mndt]

Pit to pit., shoulder to shoulder and arm holes are very important measurements and if not exact, it can ruin the jacket in way that you can't wear it at all, just because it won't fit you.

This is only true for bad / weak patterns imo. A good pattern jacket will look great even though the measurements are not 'perfect' or exact (whatever that may be).

One of these jackets has a ptp of 21.5", the other has a ptp of 24". Both perfectly comfortable jackets.