Brim Curls: Kettles, Pencill, etc.

[1961MJS]

After looking at all these, I guess I prefer the 'western' style of homburg brim curl...

That's great Scotty, you're not Ponderous enough (yet) to dress like Winston anyway. The hat and cigar would be cool though.

later

 

[Neophyte]

After looking at all these, I guess I prefer the 'western' style of homburg brim curl, if that means a slightly dipping brim front and rear.

This effect, the curl with the dippin of the front and rear, is what first attracted me to the Clearwater "Mosby", and Old West hats in general. It really is striking.

Still, someday I would like to own a traditional homburg, something like TheGood's St. Regis, or one of rlk or mayserwegener's many, many fine examples.

 

[scottyrocks]

Well, Ive got the cigars. A homburg is now a distinct possibility. As far as the ponderousness? Nah.

 

[The Good]

Yes no binding. The original Homburgs (late 19th Century) didn't have binding but this one is from the 1930s so not as common for that time period. The brim has a typical later day curl but not stiff or Bowler like.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't these sometimes referred to as lord's hats? The features being that of essentially a homburg, without the bound edge...

 

[Neophyte]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't these sometimes referred to as lord's hats? The features being that of essentially a homburg, without the bound edge...

According to this article, "A lord's hat is identical to a homburg, except it has an unbound brim. It's appropriate with anything up to a suit in formality, but you're unlikely to find one, unless it's vintage or you have one custom-made."

So, maybe you're onto something there, J.B. .

 

[mayserwegener]

That is a British term so not sure it crossed over to the Continent but possible. The curl on my Hückel is definately later Homburg like but the brim is soft which is not later Homburg like. It would be interesting to compare a 1930s Lord's Hat by one of the British makers. Late 19th and early 20th Homburgs are different than what you see into the 20s and later (see below).

 

[rlk]

that's a very thin binding on the cavanagh. did they ever make a homberg / derby / bowler with a cavanagh edge?

Yes, I have a Cavanagh-edged Homburgish-not sure where the images are-I'll do a photo tomorrow.

This effect, the curl with the dippin of the front and rear, is what first attracted me to the Clearwater "Mosby", and Old West hats in general. It really is striking...

The front and rear dip can be done easily on the older soft hats as desired and for most of the stiffer ones with a bit of steam assistance.

 

[Neophyte]

Yes, I have a Cavanagh-edged Homburgish-not sure where the images are-I'll do a photo tomorrow.


The front and rear dip can be done easily on the older soft hats as desired and for most of the stiffer ones with a bit of steam assistance.

Thanks for the info! I can't wait to see tis Cav-edge Homburg"ish" .

 

[Brad Bowers]

I have also seen Cavanagh and Dobbs Derbies with Cavanagh Edges, though they covered the edges with binding. I still have yet to add one to my collection.

Brad

 

[donnc]

After looking at all these, I guess I prefer the 'western' style of homburg brim curl, if that means a slightly dipping brim front and rear.

Just another ill-informed surmise here, but I believe this style has been preferred by black men, who we can thank for the continued existence of the Homburg in the US. Hence the surprising range of light colors, for men who dress up for a broader range of social occasions than most in the US.

 

[Neophyte]

Alright, here's anothe question for you fine gents, especially those who own wide-brim hats with the curl treatment:

Would you say that the curl treatment adds a lot of tension to the brim?

I'm still considering the options for my custom hat, and I'm thinking of a Boss of the Plains style western with a wide, curled brim. At that point, I'd modify the brim shape as I saw fit; the flat brim with curl at the beginning is functionally considered to be an blank slate. It would be great to know if adjusting the brim shape once the curl has been incorporated will be more or less difficult.

Thanks all for your great contributions to this thread, by the way :eusa_clap!

 

[Neophyte]

While I'm sitting around waiting for someone to answer the above query, here's a few more examples of cool curls, shamelessly stolen from other threads lol:

Hat at bottom right of the following pic:

 

[rlk]

Thanks for the info! I can't wait to see tis Cav-edge Homburg"ish" .

 

[Neophyte]

That is a really, really, REALLY cool homburg with a really, really, REALLY cool brim! Thanks for sharing those pics, rlk! :eusa_clap

 

[Neophyte]

RLK, I hope you don't mind me posting one of the pics of one of your westerns you posted in the Western thread...if you do, I will gladly pull it.

Here's a really nice lid posted by frussell:

Posted by Monbla in the Western thread:

 

[monbla256]

Here's another refernce brim curl for you, what I would call a "workin' curl" . Here's a 3/4 front view:

And a full rear view:

Not a pencil curl but a western reference for ya

 

[Neophyte]

That's alright, Monbla...I said at the beginning that any curl would count as long as its substantial. That keeps the thread open to variety, instead of being flooding by mostly homburgs and bowlers or mostly by Westerns. I just wanna see some durn curl lol!

As I've mentioned before, I'm trying to craft this thread as to be THE thread to consult when someone on the Lounge wants to see some brim curl, whether is be hand-rolled, pencil, kettle, that one mentioned by Brad Bowers that I still cannot pronounce, etc...

Incidentally, here's one Dinerman might remember posting a while back, a fedora owned by Douglas with a cool brim treatment:

...and another great example from RLK:

 

[hatophile]

Hey Neo,

I especially like the middle photo of the guys from the 20's, some cool hats in there.

I think some of the shaping issue depends on the actual stiffness of the hat. I just reshaped a vintage OR that was kind of stiff. I used steam and just gradually curled the brim, but only slightly because I didn't want an exaggerated curl. That seemed to work pretty well, and I suspect if I wanted more curl, I could just continue shaping the brim upward. If the felt is more pliable, of course it would take less force to move the brim upward. The other option would be to wet the hat like you would your Akubra, and work the brim that way. If you want your hat to have a "lived in" look, then water would be fine. I would use steam, however for a more refined look.

 

[Neophyte]

Hey Neo,
I especially like the middle photo of the guys from the 20's, some cool hats in there.

I think some of the shaping issue depends on the actual stiffness of the hat. I just reshaped a vintage OR that was kind of stiff. I used steam and just gradually curled the brim, but only slightly because I didn't want an exaggerated curl. That seemed to work pretty well, and I suspect if I wanted more curl, I could just continue shaping the brim upward. If the felt is more pliable, of course it would take less force to move the brim upward. The other option would be to wet the hat like you would your Akubra, and work the brim that way. If you want your hat to have a "lived in" look, then water would be fine. I would use steam, however for a more refined look.

Practically every photo I've posted was stolen directly from the "Western, Anyone" thread lol!

Thanks for the information! I suppose you're right about it being subjective depending on several other factors.

I suppose I didn't clarify, though. I was supposed to ask about brim curls that have been bound-edged...I know that a bound edge adds tension in a snap brim, as on a fedora, but I've never handled a bound-edge curled brim before...

I do enjoy the curl that I've put in my Akubra. It is easy to unroll in the rain to provide more protection, and goes right back up and stays there when the rain is gone . Very versatile!

 

[hatophile]

Thanks for the information! I suppose you're right about it being subjective depending on several other factors.

I suppose I didn't clarify, though. I was supposed to ask about brim curls that have been bound-edged...I know that a bound edge adds tension in a snap brim, as on a fedora, but I've never handled a bound-edge curled brim before...

I do enjoy the curl that I've put in my Akubra. It is easy to unroll in the rain to provide more protection, and goes right back up and stays there when the rain is gone . Very versatile!

That's OK, Neo,
The Open Road would have a bound brim, but very narrow. A larger brim will
still be shapable, just need more gentle persuasion.