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BK Durable "The Wild One" One Star Double Rider

dmoser1978

One of the Regulars
Messages
107
View attachment 480042
View attachment 480043

All credit to dmoser,
The original Durable jacket shoulder width = chest width, and the waist width = shoulder width minus 3". This is the key ratio for getting the Johnny jacket fit.

Durable 40:
Shoulder: 21"
P2P: 21"
Waist: 18"

I'm gonna perform some plastic surgery to an incoming 618, and my existing Johnson M500 and Aero Indian Ranger to get this Durable look. Project for the next 6 months. Super excited about these. Will post about the surgery when done, either success or fail.
I think we should keep in mind that Brando had a pretty good taper himself at the time.
 

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navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,875
Location
East Java
maybe the costume department tapered the waist a little bit to give more exaggerated strong hero look as the also remove the liner , I can't imagine leather jacket company aimed to normal people would make a pattern where the back hem would be so tight it stuck above the wearer pants belt line, while the upper part fit quite freely even on young marlon brando, it would limit market segment that would fit into it, but alteration for movie, or newer versions after the movie became a hit would make sense as then young people perhaps wanted to get the same look
Well, it wasn't always as snug at the waist, I've just gotten rounder as I've gotten older.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,084
Location
London, UK
Great posts! I’ve been curious about the TMC jacket for a while, albeit not from the perspective of The Wild One per se.

(I’ve never seen the film and so have no real connection to it; in terms of this layout of jacket front, my interest came more from Johnny Ramone’s.)

I think only the Harrington style comes close to this design in cutting across as many tribal boundaries. (Maybe also a Type III denim...).

My first jacket in this style was an Alice Cooper nod, in 1989; by my second in 1995, it was all about the Ramones. In more recent years, Brando is to go-to visual reference point. Same design, three very different regenerations of the wearer.

that jacket is crazy snug on the waist, but very cool shoulder angle slope, that movie has lots of cool stills to make it legendary.

So, so many great photos online. And all the other characters look great too. Always loved the other look, the guy with the US Army kepi (with the cavalry insignia, a nice touch). The other club, led by Chino (Lee Marvin's character), were very representative (and also fed back in as a big influence to them, completing the circle) of how the early Hells Angels MC and other such were already dressing at the time, according to Sonny Barger. Legend has it that Barger himself bought / acquired the striped top worn by Marvin in the film, and wore it to early HA meets. Brando's BRMC boys - more likely because of, rather than despite, the film being unavailable in the UK until 1968 - were a bigger influence on the look of the British rocker movement in its 1960-65 heyday.

I pondered putting this in a different thread but I think this seems the right one.

For all the talk about the Durable, the "Wild One" jacket at Toys McCoy I keep feeling pulled back to is this one (in the non-film iteration, but I figure the film art one is more relevant to the thread):

View attachment 480178

The collar shape is stunning.

I think Stinger is one of these other guys - there was quite a variation in jackets worn by the BRMC, as of course was realistic.

1673525907139.png


Would love to see what this one was based off directly, though - especially if it was one of the other jackets from the film directly. They all had to go somewhere.

I think we should keep in mind that Brando had a pretty good taper himself at the time.

A girl once told me I reminded her of Brando. Alas, it was in The Godfather....
 

Aloysius

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,000
I’m rather tempted by the TMC ‘Mobster’ jacket given the weak yen right now…

I had a look at thorough measurements posted by a Japanese shop. Looks like the 40 (my chest size) would actually work for me in the chest and shoulders, but the length is about 23 inches. The 42 gets me a nice 24.4” length, but then pushes the chest and shoulders into relatively large territory… on the other hand, that might be a plus for the 50s jacket style of a slight drop shoulder and big chest?

The 40 has a chest of 22.8" and shoulders of 18.9" while the 42 has a chest of 23.6" and shoulders of 19.3”.

What’s also interesting here is that TMC doesn’t seem to be doing the bizarre reverse vanity size of nu-RMC or many other JP brands.

Incidentally, the shop I was looking at has nice photos of the details:

1673565358518.jpeg


Would love to see what this one was based off directly, though - especially if it was one of the other jackets from the film directly. They all had to go somewhere.

61CBA3C4-50E1-49FC-B354-9F1D4DF22F5F.jpeg
 

Observe

One Too Many
Messages
1,208
I’m rather tempted by the TMC ‘Mobster’ jacket given the weak yen right now…

I had a look at thorough measurements posted by a Japanese shop. Looks like the 40 (my chest size) would actually work for me in the chest and shoulders, but the length is about 23 inches. The 42 gets me a nice 24.4” length, but then pushes the chest and shoulders into relatively large territory… on the other hand, that might be a plus for the 50s jacket style of a slight drop shoulder and big chest?

The 40 has a chest of 22.8" and shoulders of 18.9" while the 42 has a chest of 23.6" and shoulders of 19.3”.

What’s also interesting here is that TMC doesn’t seem to be doing the bizarre reverse vanity size of nu-RMC or many other JP brands.

Incidentally, the shop I was looking at has nice photos of the details:

View attachment 480379



View attachment 480381
How similar is TMC Mobster compared to the RMC version? I saw in one picture online that TMC has footballs in the armpits but the RMC has none. Wonder about other things like leather, etc. Can't seem to find much on the TMC model online.
20141217_0b151e.jpg
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,730
I have been checking those two jackets out myself. Both Mobsters are made with the unibody wing collar, which is a very nice luxury touch like the Mulholland but not what the screen jacket is, which is more Cal CHP collar that mimics the wing collar but is actually a set in collar. The Toys one has the \ / taper while the RMC one seems more of the slim straight torso shape. Tough call.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,084
Location
London, UK
I’m rather tempted by the TMC ‘Mobster’ jacket given the weak yen right now…

I had a look at thorough measurements posted by a Japanese shop. Looks like the 40 (my chest size) would actually work for me in the chest and shoulders, but the length is about 23 inches. The 42 gets me a nice 24.4” length, but then pushes the chest and shoulders into relatively large territory… on the other hand, that might be a plus for the 50s jacket style of a slight drop shoulder and big chest?

The 40 has a chest of 22.8" and shoulders of 18.9" while the 42 has a chest of 23.6" and shoulders of 19.3”.

What’s also interesting here is that TMC doesn’t seem to be doing the bizarre reverse vanity size of nu-RMC or many other JP brands.

Incidentally, the shop I was looking at has nice photos of the details:

View attachment 480379



View attachment 480381

Ah! Thanks! Great shots, not seen these ones before as stills. Love the idea of this. Might be wary of wearing one if I lived in Outlaws territory (albeit their rendition of this - which was inspired by the film's BRMC Colours - is markedly different), but I love the look overall.
 

Aloysius

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,000
Ah! Thanks! Great shots, not seen these ones before as stills. Love the idea of this. Might be wary of wearing one if I lived in Outlaws territory (albeit their rendition of this - which was inspired by the film's BRMC Colours - is markedly different), but I love the look overall.

If I were to get one, I'd go with the plain version of course. I think the painted ones are perhaps wearable in Europe and Japan by Americana enthusiasts, but in Britain or America it would look odd except at some kind of costume convention.
 

Claudio Pellerito

One of the Regulars
Messages
121
Hello. I know I'm resurrecting an old thread, but I have a little input into the BK Durable. It's patterned after an original Durable One Star that I own and loaned to BK so that they could make a copy of it. My payment was the first replica they made.
It's a really nice jacket and I'm including pics here of the original and the new one.

The Durable original:
AXBqtbT.jpg



The BK One Star:
LAMyHrk.jpg


Original jacket:
HO6fRy0.jpg
Of course you’ll never gonna sell your original, right?
 

Blackadder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,826
Location
China
How similar is TMC Mobster compared to the RMC version? I saw in one picture online that TMC has footballs in the armpits but the RMC has none. Wonder about other things like leather, etc. Can't seem to find much on the TMC model online. View attachment 480382
RM also has the underarm football. RM has a different cuff though, also not snaps but button holes. I have the early version made by the Few.
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...hat-have-mccoys-done-with-this-jacket.106692/
 

Claudio Pellerito

One of the Regulars
Messages
121
First up is the Durable. This is a vintage piece that was relined, had the zippers replaced, and was redyed about 10 years ago. The leather is very soft and thin and I don't wear this very often, it's more a collectible piece at this point.

Durable 40:
P2P: 21"
Waist: 18"
Back Length: 22"
Sleeve shoulder seam to end: 23"
Middle collar to sleeve end: 34"
Shoulder: 21"
Hello! Since you don’t wear it very often, I was wondering if you might consider selling it! Thank you so much.
 
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16,855
Whenever I forget about that Bikeriders cringe-fest, it jumps out of somewhere and somehow manages to look even worse every single time I see it. . .
 

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