Berets, Anyone?

[Babbo Philipe]

Camille Pissarro with his new Manufacture de Bérets merinos d'Arles 12p, he's very content! View attachment 375608

i just dig this picture, a rough drawing

 

[Babbo Philipe]

Enjoying the moment on a cold stormy day with my Tabernacle cigar and Auloronesa, made by former owner/operator Denis Guédon (the master) and embroidered by Christine, professional embroiderer in Ogeu-les-Bains.
Happy new year my beret wearing friends

 

[Fern]

Hello, fellow Boineros! I’m a new member to this forum and joined after reading all 157 pages of this thread.

Reading through all the pages over the past couple of weeks felt like reading a really interesting docudrama novel. I loved reading the early dramas among members, the rise of @Daan as the boina expert of the thread, the arrival of Trump and COVID, the closures of loved beret factories (Deer, Blancq-Olibet), factory fires, the passing of beloved and historical figures in the beret world, members’ personal injuries and family pictures, and so many exquisite historical photos and videos.

In all those pages is truly the foundation of a great community, and before I join-in and start sharing about me and my passion for boinas/txapelas I wanted to give my respects and appreciation to what has come before so we can keep it going in 2022 and beyond!

Thank you for teaching me so much about the history and character of this humble, artisanal accessory that means so much to all of us here. More to come!

 

[Fedster]

Hello, fellow Boineros! I’m a new member to this forum and joined after reading all 157 pages of this thread.

Reading through all the pages over the past couple of weeks felt like reading a really interesting docudrama novel. I loved reading the early dramas among members, the rise of @Daan as the boina expert of the thread, the arrival of Trump and COVID, the closures of loved beret factories (Deer, Blancq-Olibet), factory fires, the passing of beloved and historical figures in the beret world, members’ personal injuries and family pictures, and so many exquisite historical photos and videos.

In all those pages is truly the foundation of a great community, and before I join-in and start sharing about me and my passion for boinas/txapelas I wanted to give my respects and appreciation to what has come before so we can keep it going in 2022 and beyond!

Thank you for teaching me so much about the history and character of this humble, artisanal accessory that means so much to all of us here. More to come!

You are very welcome!

 

[Fedster]

Questions: are you wearing any other hat? I am hat man, but since I started wearing berets/boinas I have abandoned all other hats but one (my ushanka which I use when it is below -5C). I love my akubras and tilleys, but I have never worn them any more after switching, and I doubt I will wear them ever again!

 

[Fern]

Questions: are you wearing any other hat? I am hat man, but since I started wearing berets/boinas I have abandoned all other hats but one (my ushanka which I use when it is below -5C). I love my akubras and tilleys, but I have never worn them any more after switching, and I doubt I will wear them ever again!

Hi @Fedster - I have three fur/leather aviator hats (made in Iceland for me) and several cabbies/flat caps. Oh, and one really special fedora from Colombia. But like you, now that I have my boina/beret collection, I’m wearing these almost exclusively even in very cold weather. I’m using Behind-the-Head Ear Warmers with the boina to stay warm in 0°C or colder. Here’s yesterday, wearing an Elosegui fina.

 

[Fern]

Adding to the long line of selfie posts here with a House Gorostiaga (Elosegui) Superlujo in Azul Bilbao. What’s nice is the thickness of the sweatband or inner aperture of the txapela (la talla) is appreciably better than the Finas that I have. I’m trying out the different thicknesses this winter, sharing the love of #txapelas (pronounced chápelas) with my local friends along the way.

Still writing the story of how I came across Spanish basque txapelas. More to tell soon!

 

[Fedster]

My story of why a started wearing a beret is simple. My wife told me to get a flat cap, but, after brexit I wanted to wear an European hat. Enters the beret. I was really taken by how convenient and versatile a beret or a boina are. The end.

 

[Fern]

Walking through my neighborhood and appreciating our Toulouse Lautrec mural. He’s wearing a pretty cool large beret.

 

[Mm25]

Elosegui Exposición Año 1858 or Super Lujo? Looking at both and not seeing the difference clearly spelled out anywhere. Any help is appreciated.

 

[Fern]

Pouces, centimeters, pulgadas, inches, millimeters... It all makes my brain hurt!
It also does not help the situation that -- according to Boinas Elosegui -- that the "United States, Panama, and other places" use a different length for their pulgadas?!

My little cheat sheet (with absolutely no guarantees of accuracy) follows. It gets me a quick estimate of a beret's diameter in a format that is easier for me to visualize...
("inch" refers to a U.S. inch)
(all numbers rounded up/down for my convenience)
_____________________________________________
***Una pulgada castellana equivalía a 23,22 milímetros. Actualmente en Estados Unidos, Panamá y otros países se usa una pulgada de 25,4 milímetros.***
_______________________________
***1 pulgada B.E. = aprox. 23,3 mm*** ^(23,22 mm)^
10 pulg = 233 mm* = 9.1 in
10,5 pulg = 244 mm* = 9.6 in
11 pulg = 256 mm* = 10.1 in
11,5 pulg = 268 mm* = 10.5 in
12 pulg = 279 mm = 11.0 in
12,5 pulg = 291 mm = 11.4 in
13 pulg = 302 mm = 11.9 in
13,5 pulg = 314 mm = 12.3 in
14 pulg = 326 mm* = 12.8 in
15 pulg* = 349 mm* = 13.7 in
16 pulg* = 372 mm* = 14.6 in
_______________________________
9 pouce = 9.6 in
9.5 pouce = 10.1 in
10 pouce = 10.7 in
10.5 pouce = 11.2 in
11 pouce = 11.7 in
11.5 pouce = 12.3 in
12 pouce = 12.8 in
_______________________________
9 inch = 228.6 mm
9.5 inch = 241.3 mm
10 inch = 254 mm
10.5 inch = 266.7 mm
11 inch = 279.4 mm
11.5 inch = 292.1 mm
12 inch = 304.8 mm
12.5 inch = 317.5 mm
13 inch = 330.2 mm
13.5 inch = 342.9 mm
14 inch = 355.6 mm
14.5 inch = 368.3 mm
15 inch = 381 mm
______________________________

One of those 2013 posts that I came across and bookmarked. But since I’ve been using it so much recently, thought I’d quote it for all the newer arrivals (like me.)

10 pulg = 233 mm* = 9.1 in
10,5 pulg = 244 mm* = 9.6 in
11 pulg = 256 mm* = 10.1 in
11,5 pulg = 268 mm* = 10.5 in
12 pulg = 279 mm = 11.0 in
12,5 pulg = 291 mm = 11.4 in
13 pulg = 302 mm = 11.9 in
13,5 pulg = 314 mm = 12.3 in
14 pulg = 326 mm* = 12.8 in
15 pulg* = 349 mm* = 13.7 in
16 pulg* = 372 mm* = 14.6 in
_______________________________
9 pouce = 9.6 in
9.5 pouce = 10.1 in
10 pouce = 10.7 in
10.5 pouce = 11.2 in
11 pouce = 11.7 in
11.5 pouce = 12.3 in
12 pouce = 12.8 in
_______________________________
9 inch = 228.6 mm
9.5 inch = 241.3 mm
10 inch = 254 mm
10.5 inch = 266.7 mm
11 inch = 279.4 mm
11.5 inch = 292.1 mm
12 inch = 304.8 mm
12.5 inch = 317.5 mm
13 inch = 330.2 mm
13.5 inch = 342.9 mm
14 inch = 355.6 mm
14.5 inch = 368.3 mm
15 inch = 381 mm
​

 

[Fern]

Elosegui Exposición Año 1858 or Super Lujo? Looking at both and not seeing the difference clearly spelled out anywhere. Any help is appreciated.

I have both. My 1858 feels like a proper hat because of the soft, calfskin sweatband (feels supple like calfskin.) The wool is dense, soft and highly shapeable but always blacked of blacks. Feels like an elegant hat, but obviously a boina nonetheless. The correct size is important to get with the 1858, both in circumference in the headband size, but also the depth of the vuelo (how migo the hat is and how much material one has to play the shape with.) Note: 1858s also come with out leather sweatbands.

The SuperLujos come in 3 colors or more, option with and without sweatband, and a few vuelo options. I love these too because They fit awesome, not as súper formal as the 1858, and equally dense and soft wool to shape.

 

[Fern]

It all began on the drive into Bilbao. One could see all kind of men in different age groups wearing a distinctive black beret and they looked awesome. I needed to find out what those hats are called!

I was born in Medellin, Colombia, and come from mountain Paisa people. After many decades living in US, I knew my passion for the environment is rooted in the pastoral landscapes of Antioquia, where I eventually learned that I have some Basque roots with a great grandmother named Elena Aristizabal Atehortua, a very Basque name.

So last year I embarked on a mission to go see the original Basque Country and spent 10 days in Navarra, Biscaya, and la Rioja. (Barcelona and Catalunya as well, though obvi not Pais Vasco.)

And it was on the drive in the city of Bilbao that I saw these elegant hats and all kinds of associations came rushing to mind, but I knew right then I needed to have my first basque hat. Once I got on Google, I learned to call then boinas in Castellano, txapelas in Euskera, and well, I found this website and decided to learn everything I could about these hats. So wearing the txapela feels like a really historical and radical feeling, while also looking so stylish to me. I like that it reminds me of the Basque people and I will enjoy wearing these hats for the rest of my life. Right now I only have Eloseguis, from Fina, Lujo, SuperLujo and the 1858. I’m still figuring out how I like to shape them but my 1858 is a 13” vuelo, and that one has to most supple material. Love that hat.

I’m so glad for all the stories in this thread about the Elosegui factory and all the types of boinas/txapelas they make. I’ll repost some of the links to videos so more people can enjoy and not get lost in the hundreds of comments before this one.

 

[Fedster]

Elosegui Exposición Año 1858 or Super Lujo? Looking at both and not seeing the difference clearly spelled out anywhere. Any help is appreciated.

I have both. In terms of felt I do not perceive any difference in density and stiffness. I prefer the felt only boinas, but when I was testing whether to go with a leather headband or not I noticed that the best ones (by a mile) are from the Boneteria Aluoronesa.

 

[Fern]

Question for the members:
people talk about rolling up their boinas and folding them away in their pockets. Could you show me what you mean? Take a picture of how you “roll and fold” your boinas and post it here, because when I do this it looks like a small burrito and wouldn’t actually fit in my pocket.

 

[Daan]

Question for the members:
people talk about rolling up their boinas and folding them away in their pockets. Could you show me what you mean? Take a picture of how you “roll and fold” your boinas and post it here, because when I do this it looks like a small burrito and wouldn’t actually fit in my pocket.

Great to see all this new activity on the forum! There were a few questions asked that I may be able to answer:

• When people talk about rolling up their beret, this is typically referred to a universel, or headband-less beret. This is one of the advantages of an universel over a beret with headband, which is usually stiff (the Auloronesa being the exception) and prone to crack or break over time. An universel can be tightly rolled and easily stuffed in a pocket.
• The difference between the Exposicións Año 1858 and Super Lujo: the first is slightly heavier compared to the same diameter Super Lujo, but more significant, softer to the touch due to the longer brushing process.
• A comparison between an Elósegui Super Lujo, or Año 1858 with an Auloronesa is a difficult one, as the berets are as different from each other as Basque berets can be. Both brands are, with the Flamingo's, my absolute favorites, all top quality but certainly different from each other. The Super Lujo gets it impermeability from Teflon treatment, whereas the Auloronesa is impermeable from the specific way the berets are knitted and felted - without additives. The Elósegui berets, or boinas are made of Australian merino wool, whereas the Auloronesas are made of French merino wool (which is hard to get and is the reason that stock in a certain colour or diameter can be sold out for a while). The models with leather headband are very different; Elósegui uses a relatively thick band of leather that is stiff and, if not rightly sized, leaves an imprint on your forehead. Auloronesa uses the same soft leather as used for the upholstery of the top French cars, which is supple and soft (but makes the berets very expensive). And most significant of course is that a Super Lujo needs breaking in (some stretching, adjusting to size and shape), whereas the Auloronesa Universel is size adjustable and ready to wear.

 

[Fern]

Great to see all this new activity on the forum! There were a few questions asked that I may be able to answer:

• When people talk about rolling up their beret, this is typically referred to a universel, or headband-less beret. This is one of the advantages of an universel over a beret with headband, which is usually stiff (the Auloronesa being the exception) and prone to crack or break over time. An universel can be tightly rolled and easily stuffed in a pocket.
• The difference between the Exposicións Año 1858 and Super Lujo: the first is slightly heavier compared to the same diameter Super Lujo, but more significant, softer to the touch due to the longer brushing process.
• A comparison between an Elósegui Super Lujo, or Año 1858 with an Auloronesa is a difficult one, as the berets are as different from each other as Basque berets can be. Both brands are, with the Flamingo's, my absolute favorites, all top quality but certainly different from each other. The Super Lujo gets it impermeability from Teflon treatment, whereas the Auloronesa is impermeable from the specific way the berets are knitted and felted - without additives. The Elósegui berets, or boinas are made of Australian merino wool, whereas the Auloronesas are made of French merino wool (which is hard to get and is the reason that stock in a certain colour or diameter can be sold out for a while). The models with leather headband are very different; Elósegui uses a relatively thick band of leather that is stiff and, if not rightly sized, leaves an imprint on your forehead. Auloronesa uses the same soft leather as used for the upholstery of the top French cars, which is supple and soft (but makes the berets very expensive). And most significant of course is that a Super Lujo needs breaking in (some stretching, adjusting to size and shape), whereas the Auloronesa Universel is size adjustable and ready to wear.

Hi @Daan — rolled up like this? Is it supposed to be this big? Do you do it differently?

 

[Daan]

Hi @Daan — rolled up like this? Is it supposed to be this big? Do you do it differently?
View attachment 399377 View attachment 399378

Exactly! Naturally, the diameter of the beret determines how long it is, but most stay comfortably in the back pocket of my jeans.

 

[Fern]

Exactly! Naturally, the diameter of the beret determines how long it is, but most stay comfortably in the back pocket of my jeans.

Gotcha. I was worried that the rolling up would create creases or damage the felt (and I tried folding it in half, looking more like a fortune cookie than a burrito!)

 

[Fern]

@Daan — another question for you: Spanish Merino sheep — How come Elosegui doesn’t get their wool from Spain anymore but sources it from Australia?