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Been making a detachable mouton collar for my Durable « Wild One » Jacket

Mysteryo

One Too Many
Messages
1,312
Location
Nantes (FR)
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I’m the lucky owner of 2 59’s Durable jackets, one size 46 in good « worn »condition, and one in size 44 in an excellent condition (leather and hardware still shiny!), this one also has its original detachable faux fur collar.

of course the detachable collar doesn’t fit the size 46, and it’s a small deception to me that it has a synthetic mouton fleece.

So I’ve been planning in my free time, on reproduce this collar for my bigger size jacket and one with a real mouton panel!

that’s the amateur experience in modestly share with you. So please don’t be too harsh, as it’s a trial and errors fun activity . the result is far from perfect but it does the job.

here’s a few Picts of the process.

first, tracing a pattern from the original collar, and extrapoling the measures…
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cutting the parts in an heavy paper/cardboard.
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Disassembling a vintage golden mouton coat
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cutting the leather parts
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sewing as best as I can, with my 70’s industrial JuKi Sewing machine
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Aaaaaand, here it is!
The leather I used is a bit stiff but hopefully it will soften.
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TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,286
Fantastic. Any time you can do something yourself, I think it really elevates whatever you're working on.

I have 2 Cals with the mutton collar, both in black. So I started experimenting with the one I was going to sell. I haven't gotten any good offers and it's too nice of a jacket to let it go. I always wanted more of shade of brown like you have done here. So I thought, why not try and bleach the collar. After some experimenting with hydrogen peroxide, watered down bleach and straight up bleach, I gave it a go. I'm still fiddling with it so haven't posted pics, but now I have a mostly black collar, but when the light hits it certain ways, it gives off a brown glow. Really happy with it and makes it different than my other which is straight up black. I was surprised that I had to use pure bleach just to crack the black dye and even then, it took two treatments. They don't make them like they used to, that's for sure.
 

torfjord

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,781
Location
Sweden
Well done! I’ve been experimenting with doing a detachable fur collar for my sears but it’s nowhere near where I want it to be just yet. Yours look really nice! It’s a special feeling crafting something yourself.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,732
Location
Illinois
Excellent! Great work. This is an expensive item to have made. you did well. I have a similar situation with Ralphs-Pugh jackets; I have one to duplicate and a couple that could used collars. I don't know if I have the skill to do this.

I often think, where did all the Collars go? Many of the Sears jackets are listed as coming with the collar, yet very few are sold today with the collar.

Thanks for this inspiration!
 

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
Well done! Love me some detachable mouton collars myself and this is something I can only dream of doing myself. Jacket looks so good with the fur!
 

photo2u

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,351
Location
claremont california
Excellent work! I am also working in making my own mouton collars for several jackets. You are very talented and the finish product looks excellent!
I was thinking my self in using goat instead of horsehide to create a more flexible backing. Also, I still in the hunt for some 50s snap fasteners. I was wondering, Did you have some sewing experience before doing this very well done collar? May be as forum we should unite our resources to locate hardware that can be share among members.
 
Last edited:

Mysteryo

One Too Many
Messages
1,312
Location
Nantes (FR)
Thank you guys, I have not much experience in sewing, I learned things by myself, and as I mentioned it’s trials and errors process.
But I think that sewing should be part of the education for every one. after all, not so long ago, our grand mothers and mothers commonly knew how to make clothes. It’s a shame such a culture has now become rare.
But here we go, if there is something I need and can’t find I try to do it myself -well regarding leather.
I had to learn how to use a machine so that I could repair some of my vintage leather jackets… unfortunately, I don’t have much time for that hobby, but it fills me with great joy to do such little things and learn ho to…
As for the materials, I found leather in a local fabric shop, as
Well as the snap (which are not 50’s nor American originals :-(
 

J Leather Investigater

One Too Many
Messages
1,661
Location
Wilmington n.c.
Thank you guys, I have not much experience in sewing, I learned things by myself, and as I mentioned it’s trials and errors process.
But I think that sewing should be part of the education for every one. after all, not so long ago, our grand mothers and mothers commonly knew how to make clothes. It’s a shame such a culture has now become rare.
But here we go, if there is something I need and can’t find I try to do it myself -well regarding leather.
I had to learn how to use a machine so that I could repair some of my vintage leather jackets… unfortunately, I don’t have much time for that hobby, but it fills me with great joy to do such little things and learn ho to…
As for the materials, I found leather in a local fabric shop, as
Well as the snap (which are not 50’s nor American originals :-(
Good job
 

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