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mark_m

New in Town
Messages
21
Yes wool seems like a cheap material that looks shoddy. Stetson has many entry level hats in this category. Seems you could get a fur Akubra for a little more money. Stetson rate their better hats with Xs but none of it makes any sense to me. The lower the X the felt looks thicker, I'd assume cause it's full of wool. IDK. Is it worth it to chose a 6x over a 5x or 4x? A 6x approaches $300 vs a ballpark $200 4x or 5x, what do you get for that extra X? IDK

I've got several akubras, they just tell you it's rabbit felt and don't try to confuse you with all these made up ratings. That said I've got in my head I want a stetson
Stetson does have their "Pure" line which they say is pure beaver, fwiw.
 
Messages
10,839
Location
vancouver, canada
Stetson does have their "Pure" line which they say is pure beaver, fwiw.
I have their equivalent from 2015. It is a nice fur but the rest of the hat is just average. Cheap sweat band, cheap poly ribbon/bow. The build quality was ok. Was it worth $300 in 2015? It is a nice hat but for that money I could have purchased a custom and had money left over for a nice dinner out.
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,100
Location
San Francisco, CA
Stetson always gets it the worst for obfuscating the actual content of their fur mixes....and that's not untrue. But, c'mon, 4x, 5x, 6x is not really different than Imperial and Heritage being some sort of blend of rabbit and hare.

The last I checked, 4x was wool. But Stetson has been known to change grades as they will and they don't releease PDF catalogs anymore. Is a 6x better than a 5x? Presumably. How much better? Who knows. I have a 6x and a 10x in Hatco westerns and the 10x looks like its finished nicer, but that could just be luck of the draw. Maybe there's a western hat forum out there that would be able to tell you better.
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Has anyone here purchased a hat from Virginia City Hat Maker - Pioneer Emporium? I just called and it’s $750 for a custom pure beaver hat (they said they preferred FEPSA and that’s what the mostly use but they do use some Winchester). They accept appointments and you get fitted and they make the hat in approximately 1 ½ hours. I can’t imagine there’s a lot of detailed work done with that time frame. I’ll be going through Virginia City this summer on a fly fishing trip and I’ll try to stop by the shop…I won’t be ordering a custom.

It kind gave me a Watson’s Hat Shop vibe if that makes sense?
 
Happy VE Day!!!!
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quixoticTexan

New in Town
Messages
17
Apologies if I did this wrong. I tried to post under an existing topic forum, but couldn't recall how to do it. It's been a while since I posted. I was given this hat. I don't have really any experience with panama cowboy hats. It's dirty and stiff. (I have a vintage Dobbs panama, and it is soft and pliable.) Size 7 1/8. It actually fits me, so I am torn between keeping it, if it can be perked up. Or selling it "as is". My main issue with keeping/wearing is the dirt. I vacuumed, then wiped with a damp cloth. It came back very dirty. If I choose to sell, what would be a good asking price? I can't find this exact hat for sale or sold anywhere right now. Any thoughts appreciated. Thx
 

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wsmontana

Practically Family
Messages
520
Location
Montana
This is a loaded question. The “X” count has never had a consistent definition. It changes between makers and between years within the same makers. A 5X Stetson from 1940, a rare hat, is “better” than a 100X from 2023. A 3X Stetson from 1990 is better than a 6X from 2023. Stetson and others are also giving “Xs” to wool and buffalo felt hats. If you are comparing hats made at the same time by the same maker, the higher the X count the “better” the felt. However, aside from wool content that legally has to be disclosed, Stetson, and most makers, does not normally disclose the fur type percentages. The current Stetson 6X and below don’t have any beaver content (not a big deal, but it’s something).

I’m sure there is a better place to post this but here is an example that compares 3X Beaver vs. 4X Beaver for a 60s/70s Stetson Revenger. All variables (e.g., model, vintage, color, size, and condition) are the same — the only apparent difference is the X designation.

See the attached photos for a visual comparison but in summary the 4X felt is a bit more supple and deeper/richer in color. The 4X liner has piping and the 3X does not. There is a $35 price tag in the 4X. Unfortunately there is no price tag on the 3X but it is a step down so I would guess a $25 hat.

Hope this helps someone in navigating the X’s maze.

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Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,841
Location
Central Texas
Yes, but give them a call. From time to time, they have meetings and such and may not always be open as scheduled.

Heading to Texas Thursday for a wedding. Is the Hatco (Stetson) outlet store still in operation in Garland?

“The Outlet Store is open Monday through Saturday, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. and closed on Sunday.”

I’d still give them a call: 972-494-0337
 

Granville

One of the Regulars
Messages
214
Location
Long Beach, NY
I just bought a "Harvard '40" (Adam Hat). Anyone know why that model name came into existence, i.e., is it commemorating something? Also, anyone know when these models were produced? So far the only notable things I've found about that year at Harvard are 1) the school administration came out as pro-war that year, bucking the "isolationists", and 2) Jack Kennedy graduated. But neither of these seem to be the reason for Adam to name a hat. Certainly the JFK connection would be spurious, given his inauguration is often cited as the beginning of the end of the fedora. Not unlike Clark Gable heralding the demise of the undershirt in "It Happened One Night."
 
Messages
19,412
Location
Funkytown, USA
I just bought a "Harvard '40" (Adam Hat). Anyone know why that model name came into existence, i.e., is it commemorating something? Also, anyone know when these models were produced? So far the only notable things I've found about that year at Harvard are 1) the school administration came out as pro-war that year, bucking the "isolationists", and 2) Jack Kennedy graduated. But neither of these seem to be the reason for Adam to name a hat. Certainly the JFK connection would be spurious, given his inauguration is often cited as the beginning of the end of the fedora. Not unlike Clark Gable heralding the demise of the undershirt in "It Happened One Night."

Normally, a number is associated with the retail price of a hat, such as Stetson 25 or Mallory Ten. So I would assume you have a $40 hat. However, it's hard to tell anything without seeing the hat. A 40 dollar hat in the 40s or 50s would be a very nice hat.

You could also try looking through the Adam hat thread. Perhaps there is a reference to this model.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/adam-alley.18380/
 

Granville

One of the Regulars
Messages
214
Location
Long Beach, NY
Normally, a number is associated with the retail price of a hat, such as Stetson 25 or Mallory Ten. So I would assume you have a $40 hat. However, it's hard to tell anything without seeing the hat. A 40 dollar hat in the 40s or 50s would be a very nice hat.

You could also try looking through the Adam hat thread. Perhaps there is a reference to this model.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/adam-alley.18380/
Thanks, but the logo is "Harvard '40" (note the apostrophe), indicating the year. There's a cool site with pics of Adam Hats' liners, listed by date order, indicating a nineteen-sixties era and calling said logo "Plaza/Harvard '40" (http://www.thehatmovement.co.uk/Adam/AdamLiners/Site/Adam Liners.html).
I've only seen/found two here at the lounge, one of which was squelched into a pork-pie.
Clearly an obscure model.
Here are some pics:
Adam Harvard 40.png
Adam Harvard tip.jpg
 

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