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11,714
Another factor there is salt. Salt really wreaks havoc with leather. I remember when my friend bought a beautiful old Mercedes with soft leather seats. He visited while we were at a cottage on the Outer Banks and left the windows open overnight. Salty mist soaked the front seats and they dried stiff and cracked terribly when he sat on them. Tragic...
There could be a lot of truth to that…. In fact as I was typing above I started thinking of the salt content of the sweat and how that might factor in.

But all and all.. I think Brent and Jim are correct in that often moisture from sweat and other sources can reveal hidden damage to old leather sweats that might not have been noticeable otherwise. Cause them to prune up irreparably.

All of that being said…. Its really only a modern day collector of vintage hats problem. Items like sweatbands were intended to be replaced if necessary with heavy use… much like the brake pads of your car. Doesn’t make it any less disappointing though when it happens and you need to replace a beautiful 70 or 80,year old sweat.
 

Jazzsaxy123

New in Town
Messages
8
Just curious to find out more about the Stetson Key Club. I can’t seem to find a lot of info on them. When were they made? Do they hold up well? Thanks!
 

Emilis

Familiar Face
Messages
88
Hello Lounge. Hope that everyone's doing alright. Currently I am looking to purchase leather sweatbands and rabbit felt capelines (~160gr) in Europe. Suggestions?
 
Messages
10,855
Location
vancouver, canada
Hello Lounge. Hope that everyone's doing alright. Currently I am looking to purchase leather sweatbands and rabbit felt capelines (~160gr) in Europe. Suggestions?
Check with Drew at The Millinery Warehouse. There has to be a Ukraine felt distributor somewhere in the EU. Also there is Kopka out of Germany. If they don't sell direct they can point you to a distributor.
 

Emilis

Familiar Face
Messages
88
Check with Drew at The Millinery Warehouse. There has to be a Ukraine felt distributor somewhere in the EU. Also there is Kopka out of Germany. If they don't sell direct they can point you to a distributor.
I actually bought from millinery warehouse. Didnt find anyone offering 160gr rabbit felt for decent money. Got some roan leather sweats aswell. The only thing that I did not like was the fact that they were offering very expensive overseas shipping: almost 200$ for DHL and 350$ for fedex! Keep in mind that the parcel will be around 2kg ONLY. Good thing I had a buddy in the states that brought the shipping price to 60$ in total. By the way, when I asked for alternative shipping options - they just ignored me, so probably the last time I will be ordering from them just because of customer support.
 
Messages
10,855
Location
vancouver, canada
I actually bought from millinery warehouse. Didnt find anyone offering 160gr rabbit felt for decent money. Got some roan leather sweats aswell. The only thing that I did not like was the fact that they were offering very expensive overseas shipping: almost 200$ for DHL and 350$ for fedex! Keep in mind that the parcel will be around 2kg ONLY. Good thing I had a buddy in the states that brought the shipping price to 60$ in total. By the way, when I asked for alternative shipping options - they just ignored me, so probably the last time I will be ordering from them just because of customer support.
I have always found Drew to be very helpful. He has mailed things to me to save $$. They are in the process of moving so maybe he is swamped. The price of FEPSA beaver felts has just jumped up a huge amount and likely to go higher.
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,872
Location
Central Texas
A public servic announcement, just in case anyone is interested!

20230421_184348.jpg
 
Messages
19,427
Location
Funkytown, USA
Would it be possible for a hatter to make a sweatband that never needs to be replaced?

If so, what would be the means by which that could happen?

Yes, don't wear the hat. Sweatbands are sacrificial, as they take the abuse of sweat, salt, etc. and are in direct contact with our skin. Even without wear, leather sweats will dry up over time. IF you use your hat at all, the sweatband will wear out, eventually.
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Would it be possible for a hatter to make a sweatband that never needs to be replaced?

If so, what would be the means by which that could happen?


There are certainly materials that would last indefinitely that could be used as sweatbands. However, when you figure in costs, comfort, attachment to the felt, thickness, etc. you end up with leather, probably roan, that will eventually wear out.

There was a time when makers experimented with sweatbands that were buttoned in that the owner could replace himself.
 
Messages
10,855
Location
vancouver, canada
Yes, don't wear the hat. Sweatbands are sacrificial, as they take the abuse of sweat, salt, etc. and are in direct contact with our skin. Even without wear, leather sweats will dry up over time. IF you use your hat at all, the sweatband will wear out, eventually.
I have to resist the strong urge to 'save' my good hats. Much like my mother that kept her 'good china' on the top shelf only to be used on special occasions I want to preserve my hats in amber. When she passed I retrieved the dust covered china and gave it to the poor neighbours.....god forbid that happens to my hats.

Wear the hat, wear the hell out of it. It does not cost much to replace a sweat and not that hard to do yourself. It is a cheap replacement in exchange for the joy of wearing the hell out of the hat and if the sweat breaks down then celebrate that the hat has served you well. If the entire hat breaks down, give it a decent burial and celebrate all the great times you enjoyed with it atop your head.

In the meantime every year or so give it a bit of a clean with a drop of Lexol and you may just get an entire lifetime out of the one sweat....if it is a decent quality to start with.
 
Messages
19,427
Location
Funkytown, USA
I have to resist the strong urge to 'save' my good hats. Much like my mother that kept her 'good china' on the top shelf only to be used on special occasions I want to preserve my hats in amber. When she passed I retrieved the dust covered china and gave it to the poor neighbours.....god forbid that happens to my hats.

Wear the hat, wear the hell out of it. It does not cost much to replace a sweat and not that hard to do yourself. It is a cheap replacement in exchange for the joy of wearing the hell out of the hat and if the sweat breaks down then celebrate that the hat has served you well. If the entire hat breaks down, give it a decent burial and celebrate all the great times you enjoyed with it atop your head.

In the meantime every year or so give it a bit of a clean with a drop of Lexol and you may just get an entire lifetime out of the one sweat....if it is a decent quality to start with.

Most of us are able to rotate through so we don’t overburden the sweats in our vintage hats, as well. If I hadto wear one hat every day, I would likely wear it out.
 
Messages
10,855
Location
vancouver, canada
What's the difference between stetson 5x and 6x felt?


Also, wearable is silver belly on hotter days? How susceptible is it to collecting visible dirt?
As the X designation on hats is so very ill defined I think you are asking an unanswerable question unless you purchase both hats and put them side by side.
In my experience a felt is a felt is a felt and all will have a similar effect on hot days. Some folks wear felt year round while some break out the straws as soon as possible. This is a choice you get to make. Silverbelly is a very light colour so yes it will obviously show the dirt more than a black or dark brown hat. That is why I never wear a white shirt while eating spaghetti.
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
What's the difference between stetson 5x and 6x felt?


Also, wearable is silver belly on hotter days? How susceptible is it to collecting visible dirt?


This is a loaded question. The “X” count has never had a consistent definition. It changes between makers and between years within the same makers. A 5X Stetson from 1940, a rare hat, is “better” than a 100X from 2023. A 3X Stetson from 1990 is better than a 6X from 2023. Stetson and others are also giving “Xs” to wool and buffalo felt hats. If you are comparing hats made at the same time by the same maker, the higher the X count the “better” the felt. However, aside from wool content that legally has to be disclosed, Stetson, and most makers, does not normally disclose the fur type percentages. The current Stetson 6X and below don’t have any beaver content (not a big deal, but it’s something).
 

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