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[belfastboy]

Well I once ordered a custom hat at 5 3/4 inch crown height and got back what looked to be 5 1/2. I was otherwise happy with it but also didn’t know if I was measuring the crown properly, so I just let it go.

Fast forward to today and I am ordering a second custom and I’d like to be sure I understand how to measure the final product.

So yeah, I’d like there to be some science involved.

It's easy: tell the hatter you want a full 5 3/4" open crown measured from the brim upwards. Don't assume anything, make all things you want explicit. I think the hatter would be pleased to have clear instructions. I know as a hatter I am always glad to receive really clear instructions

 

[The Lost Cowboy]

It's easy: tell the hatter you want a full 5 3/4" open crown measured from the brim upwards. Don't assume anything, make all things you want explicit. I think the hatter would be pleased to have clear instructions. I know as a hatter I am always glad to receive really clear instructions

You and I have talked at length about my last custom hat on another thread. I have no idea why it ended up 5 1/2 instead of 5 3/4 since I was clear about the desired crown height in my order. I'd rather just leave that discussion alone.

But I appreciate your encouragement about giving specific instructions - it is helpful for me in my current order which has some peculiarities I'd like to see Mr. Gannon get right.

 

[belfastboy]

You and I have talked at length about my last custom hat on another thread. I have no idea why it ended up 5 1/2 instead of 5 3/4 since I was clear about the desired crown height in my order. I'd rather just leave that discussion alone.

But I appreciate your encouragement about giving specific instructions - it is helpful for me in my current order which has some peculiarities I'd like to see Mr. Gannon get right.

As a custom hatter if I mess up and don't get the specs right I would much rather have him return the hat to me for a remake. Better that than have residual bad feelings about what should be a perfect hat and a joyous experience. Michael is one of the tops in the field....he will get it right.

 

[The Lost Cowboy]

As a custom hatter if I mess up and don't get the specs right I would much rather have him return the hat to me for a remake. Better that than have residual bad feelings about what should be a perfect hat and a joyous experience. Michael is one of the tops in the field....he will get it right.

I look forward to reporting on the experience in the Gannon thread. The hat is on the block as we speak!

 

[Vegasgirlalways]

Here are the pics you asked for. Thank you for great help.

Well that actually may be a Boss of the Plains. Can you measure how tall it is and the width of the brim? And clearer picture of the tags inside? Or can you read what it says in the right side one? A Boss should be 4 1/2" tall with a 4" brim. Other models with the same general (block) shape do exist, so it's impossible to say with 100% certainty. There is a BoP logo stamp which is not here, but that's not necessarily dispositive. The fact that it's black is a little confounding. I can't swear to it, but I would think a BoP would be more common in a lighter color.

As far as value, we generally don't do that (eBay can be fickle). But that's a pre-war hat, so more desirable than average. The smaller size hats tend to attract less attention, but 7 1/8 is on the cusp I think.

Too bad it's just one size away for me.

 

[Vegasgirlalways]

Here are the pics you asked for. Thank you for great help. View attachment 550106

Well that actually may be a Boss of the Plains. Can you measure how tall it is and the width of the brim? And clearer picture of the tags inside? Or can you read what it says in the right side one? A Boss should be 4 1/2" tall with a 4" brim. Other models with the same general (block) shape do exist, so it's impossible to say with 100% certainty. There is a BoP logo stamp which is not here, but that's not necessarily dispositive. The fact that it's black is a little confounding. I can't swear to it, but I would think a BoP would be more common in a lighter color.

As far as value, we generally don't do that (eBay can be fickle). But that's a pre-war hat, so more desirable than average. The smaller size hats tend to attract less attention, but 7 1/8 is on the cusp I think.

Too bad it's just one size away for me.

 

[scottlox]

Hi, i am new to this page and would like some help with these 2 hats. I am sure they are both officer hats, one is older than the other and it doesn't have any eyelets at all, any help would be great.

 

[Frunobulax]

Hi, i am new to this page and would like some help with these 2 hats. I am sure they are both officer hats, one is older than the other and it doesn't have any eyelets at all, any help would be great.

It would be helpful if you could post some photos pf the insides, and any markings on the sweatbands.

 

[scottlox]

The first 2 pics are of the 11th Cav hat and the other 2 with the Ackerman brand are from the 6th Cav hat.
I have looked at all the resources for 1911 hats and one reason I thought they could be pre WW1 is because both the 6th and 11th Cav went into Mexico under Gen Pershing.
The reason I think the 6th Cav hat is older is because it has no stitching on the brim and no eyelets, I am assuming it was a private purchase hat. I also think they are both Officers hats because they have their original Officer hat cords and insignia still on them. They are both size 7. this is why I am here, I am unsure.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

The first 2 pics are of the 11th Cav hat and the other 2 with the Ackerman brand are from the 6th Cav hat.
I have looked at all the resources for 1911 hats and one reason I thought they could be pre WW1 is because both the 6th and 11th Cav went into Mexico under Gen Pershing.
The reason I think the 6th Cav hat is older is because it has no stitching on the brim and no eyelets, I am assuming it was a private purchase hat. I also think they are both Officers hats because they have their original Officer hat cords and insignia still on them. They are both size 7. this is why I am here, I am unsure.

If my understanding is right, the union label puts that hat between 1896 and 1934. I know that doesn’t help much. These are not hats I’m familiar with. I hope someone else can help you.

 

[harrytemp]

How are crowns measured or determined?

 

[Frunobulax]

How are crowns measured or determined?

We just recently had a bit of this discussion in another thread. For my part, open crown height is determined by the height of the block used making the hat. The block determines the taper, as well.

Were you looking for something specific?

 

[harrytemp]

From an appearance standpoint the older hats look like they have a taller crown and I think it looks better than today's 4 or 4.5'' crowns.

That is why I asked how can I determine actual measurements.

Is it universally common to measure the crown up to a certain height?

 

[Steve1857]

How are crowns measured or determined?

You can either measure it as open crown, like Jim says. Or, you can measure it to the front crease once the crown is formed.

Both ways are measured from the base of the brim.

 

[AHP91]

I'm normally on the outerwear section of this site, but here might be a shot in the dark - can someone tell me any information on this old looking hat I bought? Came from a shop in Arkansas. Just bought it cause it looked pretty cool and maybe old. Feels like wool felt or something. Thanks

 

[harrytemp]

How do we really suppose to wear these hats?

Just started collecting and I have three hats so far. The one that claims to be my exact head size is a little big so the top of my head hits the crease.

So my next two hats I bought a smaller size and it is a tad big but it is ok. Fits my head perfectly except it sometimes, sometimes the crease touches my head.

How are se suppose to wear them and are we measuring our heads incorrectly per Stetson instructions?

I could easily just measure a bit higher on my forehead and go for the smaller hat.

I notice some members wear them high and some of them are wearing hats too big (which would have my exact problem).

I am missing out on great prices due to this. I am going back and forth within 3 sizes.

 

[belfastboy]

From an appearance standpoint the older hats look like they have a taller crown and I think it looks better than today's 4 or 4.5'' crowns.

That is why I asked how can I determine actual measurements.

Is it universally common to measure the crown up to a certain height?

If the crown is full (zero taper) it will be more dominant to the eye.

The more taper the less predominant the crown will appear. A full square crown (zero taper) will appear much larger than a same sized tapered crown. Because there is more actual crown surface showing.

 

[blewnote]

How do we really suppose to wear these hats?

Just started collecting and I have three hats so far. The one that claims to be my exact head size is a little big so the top of my head hits the crease.

So my next two hats I bought a smaller size and it is a tad big but it is ok. Fits my head perfectly except it sometimes, sometimes the crease touches my head.

How are se suppose to wear them and are we measuring our heads incorrectly per Stetson instructions?

I could easily just measure a bit higher on my forehead and go for the smaller hat.

I notice some members wear them high and some of them are wearing hats too big (which would have my exact problem).

I am missing out on great prices due to this. I am going back and forth within 3 sizes.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/how-high-should-a-hat-sit.10070/

Google is your friend, but I understand your quandary. And like most things, it comes down to preference... some people like to wear them high, others low. And a good number of people on this site just seem addicted to getting hats, even if they don't quite fit them and calling it good enough (not that there's anything wrong with that, although if anyone has any grey homburgs or fedoras with 2 to 2-1/2 " brims in a size 7 1/4 that don't actually fit them and want to sell along, DM me!).

A good rule of thumb though is that the hat is resting about 1/4 to 1/2 inch above your ears when the brim is parallel to the ground. I start there, but then usually tilt mine to the right and back a little.

I was measured at a good hat store as a 7 3/8 but always had to put foam strips in the hat band to have the hat not wiggle around or sit down lower than I'd like causing the crown to come into contact with my head (or so I thought, more on that in a sec). I've never liked the way hats fit with foam because it seems to distort the sweatband and cause it to kind of buckle and it becomes uncomfortable. Felt strips seem to be better at making a hat fit without this discomfort, but I also recently discovered that I'm more of a large 7 1/4, especially now that I regularly shave what little hair I had left off.

What really solved it for me was getting a custom hat that is the exact shape of my head and is a delight to wear.

As a further digression: I'm attracted to the vintage hats and have found much more sucess with 7 1/4, especially since I learned that you can stretch them just a little bit if you need just a teensy bit more room. I also learned that the height and shape of the crown has a lot to do with keeping the hat from touching the top of my head, which I really dislike. Taller crowns, or crowns with less taper tend to have enough room to keep the middle up high enough, or crown shapes like a telescope crown (at least I think that's what it's called, it's what is on porkpie hats) which come up in the middle also solve this problem for me.

 

[harrytemp]

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/how-high-should-a-hat-sit.10070/

Google is your friend, but I understand your quandary. And like most things, it comes down to preference... some people like to wear them high, others low. And a good number of people on this site just seem addicted to getting hats, even if they don't quite fit them and calling it good enough (not that there's anything wrong with that, although if anyone has any grey homburgs or fedoras with 2 to 2-1/2 " brims in a size 7 1/4 that don't actually fit them and want to sell along, DM me!).

A good rule of thumb though is that the hat is resting about 1/4 to 1/2 inch above your ears when the brim is parallel to the ground. I start there, but then usually tilt mine to the right and back a little.

I was measured at a good hat store as a 7 3/8 but always had to put foam strips in the hat band to have the hat not wiggle around or sit down lower than I'd like causing the crown to come into contact with my head (or so I thought, more on that in a sec). I've never liked the way hats fit with foam because it seems to distort the sweatband and cause it to kind of buckle and it becomes uncomfortable. Felt strips seem to be better at making a hat fit without this discomfort, but I also recently discovered that I'm more of a large 7 1/4, especially now that I regularly shave what little hair I had left off.

What really solved it for me was getting a custom hat that is the exact shape of my head and is a delight to wear.

As a further digression: I'm attracted to the vintage hats and have found much more sucess with 7 1/4, especially since I learned that you can stretch them just a little bit if you need just a teensy bit more room. I also learned that the height and shape of the crown has a lot to do with keeping the hat from touching the top of my head, which I really dislike. Taller crowns, or crowns with less taper tend to have enough room to keep the middle up high enough, or crown shapes like a telescope crown (at least I think that's what it's called, it's what is on porkpie hats) which come up in the middle also solve this problem for me.

Thank you.

 

[milandro]

I suppose there is no real answer to this.

You are supposed to wear it the way it feels comfortable for you.

There are fitting issue with any hat or any garment for that matter. Sizes are only a part of the story.

One would think that size 7 1/2 (60cm) , being a number , would always be the same but of course not.

The sizes vary fairly fundamentally between brands but also within models and within the same hat model type and size (in other words no two hats are exactly the same).

Then you have the shape of your head and the one of the hat ( more or less round, oval, long oval...).

Naturally there is the issue of the height of the crown , and two different models would have different heights and feel completely different.


So, I suppose we all have hats that are different, feel different fit differently . I certainly have. Also I have sizes ranging from 60 to 62. the use of cork or other devices to fit a hat that fits too loosely is very common but also the use of hat stretchers to slightly expand the hats which have shrunk, something which in some hats may happen at some point or periodically.

In other words @harrytemp , no, there is no answer to your problem, we all deal with it


Buying hats, at a distance means to find them to your liking (fitting wise) or not, but you need to deal with the problems which arise along the way