Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

[handymike]

Because the pants don’t come up as high anymore. Pants used to sit at the “natural waist” which is right around the belly button. Now they sit on the hips or lower.

 

[Observe]

When and why did denim jackets begin to be made with a longer cut? I ask because I have always preferred the "vintage" cut of older Wranglers, Mavericks, etc. that tend to sit above the rear. It seems most denim jackets being made today, aside from dedicated repro brands, generally sit at least halfway down the rear

I'd imagine it correlates with the lower rise in modern pants.

 

[WorldsAway]

That makes sense, thank you both for the response.

 

[navetsea]

When and why did denim jackets begin to be made with a longer cut? I ask because I have always preferred the "vintage" cut of older Wranglers, Mavericks, etc. that tend to sit above the rear. It seems most denim jackets being made today, aside from dedicated repro brands, generally sit at least halfway down the rear

because of hand warmers, and people wear their tshirt long and untucked, I saw a nice waist length type 3 by local denim brand (of which I quickly bought) and the comments section of its IG and a review in YT by local buyer/ reviewer wished the jacket was longer, and so their next release was indeed longer in the body. it what market dictates, a brand can't sustain on ideals alone until they are big enough to dictate the market.

 

[Observe]

Slightly wordy and image-heavy post ahead. Thank you in advance for your patience.

Just received a second-hand Vanson Enfield in the mail yesterday. I have encountered a curious problem with the drape of the back panel. It almost folds up into itself. I will attach pictures to illustrate what I mean. I was first thinking it was due to it being folded up in a box for the better part of two weeks as it made its way across the globe to me. I conditioned the leather with a combination of Urad and Tenderly (the leather felt a bit dry and had some points of abrasion where the topcoat had worn away) and set it aside to let the stuff absorb.

Conditioning had no noticeable effect on the phenomenon. The leather is supple and broken-in, and soft to the touch. Here is a picture of the outside lower part of the back panel, with the section in question highlighted.

I continued to inspect the jacket to try and determine the cause of the matter. I tried undoing the side adjusters to see if they were somehow causing this, but there was no difference, no matter how loose or tight I set them.

After further inspection, I believe the problem is possibly due to the lining being too small/short/tight inside the jacket, causing the bottom of the back panel to pucker and pull up into itself as highlighted in the above images. Here is a couple shots of the inside liner of the jacket, both flat on the floor and held up in my hand to show what's going on inside the jacket.

What do you guys think? Am I correct in my diagnosis of the lining being too small as the cause of this issue? How would I go about fixing it if so? Would it be possible to fix it myself or would I need to bring it to a tailor? Thanks again for your patience and assistance.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Slightly wordy and image-heavy post ahead. Thank you in advance for your patience.

Just received a second-hand Vanson Enfield in the mail yesterday. I have encountered a curious problem with the drape of the back panel. It almost folds up into itself. I will attach pictures to illustrate what I mean. I was first thinking it was due to it being folded up in a box for the better part of two weeks as it made its way across the globe to me. I conditioned the leather with a combination of Urad and Tenderly (the leather felt a bit dry and had some points of abrasion where the topcoat had worn away) and set it aside to let the stuff absorb.

View attachment 482522 View attachment 482521

Conditioning had no noticeable effect on the phenomenon. The leather is supple and broken-in, and soft to the touch. Here is a picture of the outside lower part of the back panel, with the section in question highlighted.

View attachment 482523

I continued to inspect the jacket to try and determine the cause of the matter. I tried undoing the side adjusters to see if they were somehow causing this, but there was no difference, no matter how loose or tight I set them.

After further inspection, I believe the problem is possibly due to the lining being too small/short/tight inside the jacket, causing the bottom of the back panel to pucker and pull up into itself as highlighted in the above images. Here is a couple shots of the inside liner of the jacket, both flat on the floor and held up in my hand to show what's going on inside the jacket.

View attachment 482524
View attachment 482520

What do you guys think? Am I correct in my diagnosis of the lining being too small as the cause of this issue? How would I go about fixing it if so? Would it be possible to fix it myself or would I need to bring it to a tailor? Thanks again for your patience and assistance.

Unfortunately I believe this is heat damage. The previous owner must have tried to shrink fit the jacket and went too far (high) with the heat dry.
Anyways, you did good conditioning it, it helps. I’d try to place a heavy weight plate on top of the back panel with the conditioning soaked in, with a towel in between to not show marks, for a few days at least. It won’t change the leather back to its original state but it could flatten things out for a smoother drape.
Good luck.

 

[Observe]

Unfortunately I believe this is heat damage. The previous owner must have tried to shrink fit the jacket and went too far (high) with the heat dry.
Anyways, you did good conditioning it, it helps. I’d try to place a heavy weight plate on top of the back panel with the conditioning soaked in, with a towel in between to not show marks, for a few days at least. It won’t change the leather back to its original state but it could flatten things out for a smoother drape.
Good luck.

Damn, I really hope it isn't heat damage. I would consider it to be a little bit shady for someone to sell this jacket without acknowledging such a thing. When the jacket is hanging from a coat hanger, it drapes normally. It's only once the jacket is on body or hanging by the locker loop or some other configuration where it is not flat, where it becomes apparent.

Edit: I tried holding the jacket upside down from the bottom of the back panel, and the same effect crops up at the top of the back panel, near the collar. I feel as though this further corroborates my theory of this being related to the lining. I thought I saw a thread on here about a similar issue someone else had a while ago, but I can't find it any more.

 

[Damon141]

Zipper question:

I am loving my newly acquired vintage Windward halfbelt but I can tell the zipper is not long for this world—the bottom starter tooth is about half off the cloth tape.

Can anyone recommend a place in NYC to supply and install a new zipper? Is this the kind of repair the corner dry cleaners can do or does it need a specialist?

The original is surprisingly fine toothed 20” long zipper and says CONMAR.

Thanks!

David

There is a seller on EBay who has quantities of most major vintage zipper brands but I can’t tell you if he will have the exact one, but you can attempt to keep it close.

Hopefully someone can help you with the zipper replacement, I’ve seen some mentioned but not sure if they can install them using the same thread holes.

 

[handymike]

Damn, I really hope it isn't heat damage. I would consider it to be a little bit shady for someone to sell this jacket without acknowledging such a thing. When the jacket is hanging from a coat hanger, it drapes normally. It's only once the jacket is on body or hanging by the locker loop or some other configuration where it is not flat, where it becomes apparent.

Edit: I tried holding the jacket upside down from the bottom of the back panel, and the same effect crops up at the top of the back panel, near the collar. I feel as though this further corroborates my theory of this being related to the lining. I thought I saw a thread on here about a similar issue someone else had a while ago, but I can't find it any more.

You could use a seam ripper to undo some stitches along the bottom edge of the liner. Start in the middle and work outward until it lays flat. Then reinforce the ends. If the liner is pulling, you’ll know, if it’s something else- at least you’ll have access to the inside to feel around.

 

[Observe]

I decided to get bold and take a seam ripper to the lining along the bottom hem. I believe the photos speak for themselves. Now to get the lining stitched back together by somebody. I assume the lining will need another piece of material added along the bottom? Hopefully not too big a job.

 

[handymike]

Burn the edges of the thread, and leave it alone. As long as nothing else unravels you should be fine for a long time.

 

[Mighty44]

There is a seller on EBay who has quantities of most major vintage zipper brands but I can’t tell you if he will have the exact one, but you can attempt to keep it close.

Hopefully someone can help you with the zipper replacement, I’ve seen some mentioned but not sure if they can install them using the same thread holes.

I wondered about using the same holes. Okay thanks!

 

[Observe]

Burn the edges of the thread, and leave it alone. As long as nothing else unravels you should be fine for a long time.

What about crap getting up in the jacket? Do I just leave a loose flap?

Edit: how does this sort of thing even happen with a jacket? Flaw from the factory or did the lining shrink somehow?

 

[handymike]

Who knows.
Some vintage jackets left the bottom hem un-attached, so as long as the edges hold- no harm.

 

[Canuck Panda]

What about crap getting up in the jacket? Do I just leave a loose flap?

Edit: how does this sort of thing even happen with a jacket? Flaw from the factory or did the lining shrink somehow?

Open bottom lining is a thing. I wish more longer jackets came like that, easier to clean and imo drapes better.
Always check the zipper before buying. Wavy zip means it’s had something done to it. However in your case I think it turned out ok. Looks good. Yours actually have some graining vs my smooth CW.

 

[Damon141]

Who knows.
Some vintage jackets left the bottom hem un-attached, so as long as the edges hold- no harm.

I was just going to say that but was unsure the purpose.

Is it for cleaning?

I imagine it would be easier to clean a lining with warm soapy water with an open lining and using a bath towel behind the liner to keep the leather dry.

i

 

[JoeNiblick]

What are other jackets similar to the FreeWheelers 37J1? I’m digging the more streamlined collar.

 

[barnabus]

Impulse-buy wool overcoat just arrived today, but it has a strong smell of cigarette smoke that I'd like to get rid of.

I can try airing it out outside, once we're back above freezing here. But would dry cleaning help? Does that work to deodorise things?

 

[Will Zach]

Try airing first. Ozone works best, though, search TFL using keyword ozone.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Impulse-buy wool overcoat just arrived today, but it has a strong smell of cigarette smoke that I'd like to get rid of.

I can try airing it out outside, once we're back above freezing here. But would dry cleaning help? Does that work to deodorise things?

Unfortunately no. Dry cleaning will only add gasoline smell on top of the cigarette smell.

Some dry cleaners have their secrets I believe its just a bag full of charcoal and come back in a week.

Otherwise just wait till it's warmer and hang it in the sun for an afternoon. I got some jackets I got this winter that needs airing out too. But no sun for a while. Still in the middle of winter. Gotta wait.