Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

[handymike]

I agree, Pecards is bad on deer. It gets gummy.

 

[hjv2]

Horween recommends Neatsfoot Oil based products on Chromexcel.

https://www.horween.com/blog/2010/03/23/chromexcel®-2

 

[Harris HTM]

Asking for some quick feedback here if anyone has the time. I wrote an article on my website about how to care for leather jackets. Obviously there are different takes on this, but my main point was to teach people who are new to leather jackets that they shouldn't condition them often... if ever really. Most of us on here know this, but I was wondering if there are any glaring omissions here.

https://almostvintagestyle.com/2023/01/17/how-to-condition-and-care-for-leather-jackets/

I'm not going to do a step by step set of instructions for how to actually put conditioner on a jacket, but other than that, any suggestions? This isn't really aimed at this crowd, but maybe some of you have feedback for me to help some of the uninitiated.

Though not relevant to conditioning but probably relevant to caring for leather jackets: maybe add a line or two regarding the zippers? Soap, pencil and other remedies so they slide smoothly? I read your article really fast so maybe there is there but I missed it.

 

[Monitor]

Asking for some quick feedback here if anyone has the time. I wrote an article on my website about how to care for leather jackets. Obviously there are different takes on this, but my main point was to teach people who are new to leather jackets that they shouldn't condition them often... if ever really. Most of us on here know this, but I was wondering if there are any glaring omissions here.

https://almostvintagestyle.com/2023/01/17/how-to-condition-and-care-for-leather-jackets/

I'm not going to do a step by step set of instructions for how to actually put conditioner on a jacket, but other than that, any suggestions? This isn't really aimed at this crowd, but maybe some of you have feedback for me to help some of the uninitiated.

All good. I'd be a bit more clear about the difference between products such as Lexol and Pecard as being water based, the former is better in penetrating leather than the latter. Tanning method actually isn't important when it comes to leather conditioner absorbance, it is the finish that is a deciding factor when it comes to that & both types of leather can be coated with a waterproof finish. Pecard might sit for weeks on both chrome and veg tanned leather. That's where Lexol is better, being a water based conditioner (though honestly, it doesn't really do a whole lot either way). Or liquid silicone, which I prefer.

 

[navetsea]

Asking for some quick feedback here if anyone has the time. I wrote an article on my website about how to care for leather jackets. Obviously there are different takes on this, but my main point was to teach people who are new to leather jackets that they shouldn't condition them often... if ever really. Most of us on here know this, but I was wondering if there are any glaring omissions here.

https://almostvintagestyle.com/2023/01/17/how-to-condition-and-care-for-leather-jackets/

I'm not going to do a step by step set of instructions for how to actually put conditioner on a jacket, but other than that, any suggestions? This isn't really aimed at this crowd, but maybe some of you have feedback for me to help some of the uninitiated.

I think your article is already complete like everyone have said, nice presentation and photos, I like the gaping pocket welt on your jacket and the vanson is in such a perfect state.

perhaps it can be added that if we keep on conditioning open pore leather it will eventually turn it into oil pull up, it kills the grain potential and won't crease naturally and would feel mushy, the color would also look unnaturally dark as if the leather is wet, so we have to stop before our leather turns into that. however if our leather is already overtreated because newbie error or to much listening to internet, then we can strip the oil with leather degreaser or lighter fluid (wash benzene) with cotton pad you will see the brown oxidized oil get absorbed from the leather into the cotton pad and the leather immediately look lighter in color once the fluid evaporated it might dull the sheen a bit, but just let it normalize by itself in several days deeper oil will replenish the dry top layer and even out the color and bring back its sheen once buffed, at least I did this to my over conditioned vegtan belt. perhaps people don't see enough impact rightaway from conditioning so they over do it, with leather the result of conditioning can be much delayed probably can take a week for the effect to show, so perhaps newbies need to know that and just be chill about it don't wait 1 hour or overnight and do another treatment like what youtube videos suggest it.

 

[Observe]

No omissions. I would not recommend using pecards on your deerskin bodie though. The naked deerskin will suck it all up, probably changing the characteristics of the leather.

I had a few tiny spots on my deerskin fw, carefully tried touching them up with colorless Urad but that immediately changed the color of the leather.

I think it's best to leave this jacket untreated. If anything you could give it a handwash with some mild detergent.

I tried colorless urad on some trashed deerskin gloves and it made them smooth, yet "crispy" feeling and kind of slippery. Definitely changed character of the leather. I wouldn't think the outcome a desired trait for a leather jacket, and I only did it to the gloves as an experiment as the instructions say not to use on soft porous leather like deer. It didn't destroy the gloves but it might be hard to get a good grip with them for a while.

 

[58panheadfan]

Asking for some quick feedback here if anyone has the time. I wrote an article on my website about how to care for leather jackets. Obviously there are different takes on this, but my main point was to teach people who are new to leather jackets that they shouldn't condition them often... if ever really. Most of us on here know this, but I was wondering if there are any glaring omissions here.

https://almostvintagestyle.com/2023/01/17/how-to-condition-and-care-for-leather-jackets/

I'm not going to do a step by step set of instructions for how to actually put conditioner on a jacket, but other than that, any suggestions? This isn't really aimed at this crowd, but maybe some of you have feedback for me to help some of the uninitiated.

For Deerskin you can use a suede care/waterproofing Spray the jacket can also be brushed dry from time to time. But as already mentioned no creams, oils or similar on a deerskin jacket, it will be destroyed.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

No omissions. I would not recommend using pecards on your deerskin bodie though. The naked deerskin will suck it all up, probably changing the characteristics of the leather.

I had a few tiny spots on my deerskin fw, carefully tried touching them up with colorless Urad but that immediately changed the color of the leather.

I think it's best to leave this jacket untreated. If anything you could give it a handwash with some mild detergent.

Ok good to know. I will have to update this info. I'll also make sure to avoid it on my jacket.

I agree, Pecards is bad on deer. It gets gummy.

I'll avoid! Thanks.

Though not relevant to conditioning but probably relevant to caring for leather jackets: maybe add a line or two regarding the zippers? Soap, pencil and other remedies so they slide smoothly? I read your article really fast so maybe there is there but I missed it.

This is a good thing to add. I did not include it.

All good. I'd be a bit more clear about the difference between products such as Lexol and Pecard as being water based, the former is better in penetrating leather than the latter. Tanning method actually isn't important when it comes to leather conditioner absorbance, it is the finish that is a deciding factor when it comes to that & both types of leather can be coated with a waterproof finish. Pecard might sit for weeks on both chrome and veg tanned leather. That's where Lexol is better, being a water based conditioner (though honestly, it doesn't really do a whole lot either way). Or liquid silicone, which I prefer.

Good to know thanks!

I think your article is already complete like everyone have said, nice presentation and photos, I like the gaping pocket welt on your jacket and the vanson is in such a perfect state.

perhaps it can be added that if we keep on conditioning open pore leather it will eventually turn it into oil pull up, it kills the grain potential and won't crease naturally and would feel mushy, the color would also look unnaturally dark as if the leather is wet, so we have to stop before our leather turns into that. however if our leather is already overtreated because newbie error or to much listening to internet, then we can strip the oil with leather degreaser or lighter fluid (wash benzene) with cotton pad you will see the brown oxidized oil get absorbed from the leather into the cotton pad and the leather immediately look lighter in color once the fluid evaporated it might dull the sheen a bit, but just let it normalize by itself in several days deeper oil will replenish the dry top layer and even out the color and bring back its sheen once buffed, at least I did this to my over conditioned vegtan belt. perhaps people don't see enough impact rightaway from conditioning so they over do it, with leather the result of conditioning can be much delayed probably can take a week for the effect to show, so perhaps newbies need to know that and just be chill about it don't wait 1 hour or overnight and do another treatment like what youtube videos suggest it.

Yeah thats great to add. Shows more of the downsides of overconditioning. I appreciate that.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Lexol

+1 for Lexol. I've used it on my cars seats for years never had a problem. Now I use it on used jackets I buy. Fast absorbing, doesn't leave a residue, easy spray on application.

I also use Mink oil to soften stiff leather. But that stuff leaves a residue and is best when the jacket is warmed up first and then polishing with a brush is still needed to push the mink oil into the leather. Same thing about Vaseline, it will leave residue and doesn't really soak in without extra labor.

Lexol is really the easiest and does the job fast and good.

 

[handymike]

I tried colorless urad on some trashed deerskin gloves and it made them smooth, yet "crispy" feeling and kind of slippery. Definitely changed character of the leather. I wouldn't think the outcome a desired trait for a leather jacket, and I only did it to the gloves as an experiment as the instructions say not to use on soft porous leather like deer. It didn't destroy the gloves but it might be hard to get a good grip with them for a while.

Think of Urad as a top-coating. It is resin based, so using it is like varnishing your jacket. Best to use it sparingly IMHO.

 

[Observe]

Think of Urad as a top-coating. It is resin based, so using it is like varnishing your jacket. Best to use it sparingly IMHO.

I do quite like it for that effect, but you're right, it has its place.

 

[Will Zach]

Think of Urad as a top-coating. It is resin based, so using it is like varnishing your jacket. Best to use it sparingly IMHO.

Yes, very sparingly. BTW, thx for your sample.... Best to put on a tiny dab on the attached sponge, wipe that off against edge of can, and rub that on the leather. Spread as much as you can, let the wetness of the leather be your guide as to how big area you can cover with one dab. If it is wet, it is coated. A super-thin layer. Does a good job of restoring a worn-off topcoat, and if the layer is super-thin, it is not too shiny. Urad is NOT a conditioner, I think they have a thing called Tenderly for that.

 

[Observe]

I have used Lexol typically to condition in the past but I've ordered some Tenderly from Urad to try it out.

 

[thatoreoguy]

What jacket is this ?

 

[sunset]

What jacket is this ?

I'm not familiar, but based on a pretty rough online image of the magazine table of contents, it could be a Nigel Cabourn coat bought from Pickings & Parry. Might have been vintage, they sell used. The magazine publication date followed an in person visit to the store.

High res image of the cover.

 

[navetsea]

+1 for Lexol. I've used it on my cars seats for years never had a problem. Now I use it on used jackets I buy. Fast absorbing, doesn't leave a residue, easy spray on application.

I also use Mink oil to soften stiff leather. But that stuff leaves a residue and is best when the jacket is warmed up first and then polishing with a brush is still needed to push the mink oil into the leather. Same thing about Vaseline, it will leave residue and doesn't really soak in without extra labor.

Lexol is really the easiest and does the job fast and good.

I agree with Canuck Panda, if you are complete beginner and don't know the characteristic of your leather to pick conditioner that suitable for it

simply go to the car/ luxury car interior section of your supermarket or hardwarestore and find one there from the most reputable brand of car interior care you ever heard of or simply the most expensive there, usually it is the safest option, no company who claim their product works for car interior and having their products stocked on major store racks will fail you, ease of application and quick drying and non oily non blotchy is usually guaranteed, these brand is geared toward general market for people who don't know about any technique in conditioning leather and usually these conditioner won't darken the leather.

sadly beginners especially from raw denim circle probably would grab Obenauff first, one of the most potent and most risky for messing up your leather from over conditioning, even the direction of use in obenauff bottle is overkill, since the product is geared toward outdoor performance for very basic very thick vegtan leather boots worn in the muddy wet outdoor and not for expensive beautiful leather for maintaining its looks, go to wallet and belt section of raw denim communities you may see pictures of over conditioning on vegtan leather

 

[Jasonissm]

I'm not familiar, but based on a pretty rough online image of the magazine table of contents, it could be a Nigel Cabourn coat bought from Pickings & Parry. Might have been vintage, they sell used. The magazine publication date followed an in person visit to the store.

High res image of the cover.

Interesting that it's Pickings and Parry since they're somewhat local shop in Melbourne, Australia, and the magazine is Clutch Japan, but Nigel Cabourn was also my first thought as they have many items of a similar style and are quite big in Japan with a bunch of retailers including Speedway Sendai.

 

[navetsea]

This is my case of over conditioning, the top left is my 4yrs old belt clip, one of first vegtan thing i bought when adopting raw denim, i put on too much stuff on it especially when it was new as natural vegtan accumulated over 4 years you can see the texture looked bloated and looked wet and the color is dirty brown black then i use deglazer to clean up all the buildup, and then i rub beeswax and buff it with horsehair brush, suddenly the grain and pores are visible again and the leather feel firm and not squishy to touch

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Added new info to the article along with specific thank yous for the info. Thanks for the feedback y'all!

 

[Observe]

Where can I get a decently priced Sam Browne belt to fit a CHP? Only spent $200 on the jacket, so I'm not looking to break the bank on it. Anyone have a used one kicking around or a lead on a cheaper one?

I don't want or need the shoulder strap, that's too deep into LARP territory. The jacket has belt loops so I feel like for the sake of completion I wouldn't mind something to run through it.