Aero Sheene- Fit Advice and Creative Guidance

[Carlos840]

I think the debate about zippers on pockets really depends what you do with them.
Personally i never put my hands in my jacket pockets, it stretches them out and you end up with wide open gaping pockets that look like crap. Zippers will prevent that from happening and will also make sure that any objects you keep in there stay in there.
What i would do is get zippers, but ask for the puller to be located at the bottom when closed, so that it looks more balanced with closed zippers, which is how i wear the jacket 99% of the time. IF i need the pocket, i unzip it, stick something in and zip it back up. They are never left open.

 

[Guppy]

I like zippered pockets for riding jackets. It's security. I like them to close down. I don't find them uncomfortable with my hand inside. I might feel the teeth, and if it's especially cold that could potentially be a problem, but most of the time it's not too uncomfortable, albeit not as comfortable as a smooth, soft pocket.

 

[AeroFan_07]

You might also like this thread for a year or so back...
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/aero-sheene-fan-thread.91163/

 

[JMax]

The front looks great as do the sleeves, but the back is a mess IMHO. I wouldn't be happy with that.

I would bet that eliminating the gussets would solve that slight ballooning in that area. Or a regiment of cable rows.

 

[Peacoat]

I, too, am surprised a size 40 fits you with your measurements. It all looks good, except as others have said, the back is a mess. I would send those photos to Carrie and see what she thinks is the best way to deal with that. She has a very good eye for detail, and has been doing this for awhile now. I got two Aeros through her and the fit on both is great.

Welcome to the Lounge.

 

[Fanch]

+1 what @Peacoat just said and am surprised that a size 40 CR would work at all, given your anatomic measurements. I have two size 42 Sheenes: A black Vicenza HH with shoulder gussets like your fit jacket and no zippers on the handwarmer pockets; and a russet Vicenza HH without shoulder gussets but zippers on handwarmer pockets. Both jackets fit me like they were custom made for me, which essentially they were.

I wish that I had ordered at least one inside pocket without closure on each jacket. I found I prefer no zippers on handwarmer pockets. I also prefer a plain back with shallow V-yoke without shoulder gussets that are IMO more ormamental than functional. Both of my Sheenes have olive cotton drill lining throughout with no issues whatsoever. I do have a CXL FQHH Teamster with cotton sateen sleeve lining that also works well for me.

For daily wear I prefer Vicenza HH over CXL FQHH as the latter is significantly heavier and less flexible than Vicenza HH that IMO has a better drape than CXL for routine wear. However, the CXL is highly water resistant, Vicenza less so. All about preferences here, and the information I provided represents what I like. Good luck and welcome to the Lounge!

 

[lina]

That’s an unusually large 40. Another 40 would almost certainly be smaller, FYI.

 

[VestCoast]

After consulting with Carrie and mulling over the excellent advice provided here I have settled on the following specs:

-Black CXL FQHH

-Black Stitching

-V yoke (not a western single point)

-No shoulder gussets

-Zipped Handwarmers, closed down

-Wine Sateen liner in body and sleeves

-2 chest pockets, slightly angled inward and deep

-2 interior pockets, no closures

-Interior and Exterior Kidney panel

-Highwayman collar

-Brass hardware


I decided to go with the black CXL FQHH because I think it will be the most versatile and as others have said, is a good first jacket color. The brown on the fit jacket was really spectacular but I think will ultimately be a little less wearable for me. I particularly like the tea core aging effect with the Black CXL FQHH which will match my Red Wing Klondike Engineer boots.

I didn’t find the zipper opening on the handwarmer pockets irritating enough to sway me from the clean look that the pockets have when zipped shut. I will have them specced to close down however, as I think it improves the silhouette. I am planning on going with brass hardware with I think will make the pockets look even better against the black.

I think I am leaning towards the Highwayman collar over the August. I found the mandarin collar on the fit jacket to be very uncomfortable, pushing against the back of my neck pretty considerably when standing. That, and the fact that the fit jacket was purchased by someone else from the Thurston Bros. site while in transit to me made keeping the fit jacket a non-option.

I am planning to stick with the size 40. The jacket was comfortable and I could reach all the pockets, answer a phone, drink out of a mug, etc. without trouble. I could fit a medium weight sweatshirt underneath the fit jacket and still feel reasonably comfortable. I would consider sizing up to a 42 if the shoulders didn’t feel perfect in the 40. The 42 seems to have an extra 0.75” on average in width which would be excessive on my frame, and make the back look worse. I did notice in the fit pictures that the waist in the back looks very trim/tight compared to the shoulders, which might contribute to the upper back looking worse in general. I am wondering whether adding 0.5” to the side panels would address this, or if just breaking in the jacket is the best course. I will say that the sizing has me a little apprehensive. I have always straddled the line between M/L and have become rather brand loyal when something actually fits.

I believe that if my jacket is made to be similar in size to the fit jacket with a little less material in the back, I will be very happy with how it fits.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Sounds great! I hope you will indeed enjoy it very much! I like the black/red lining combination.

I thought of only one other item - the main zipper. You may like a #8 or so in terms of size instead of the standard #5. I find my #5 in a couple Aero's to be pretty hard to get started zipping, and some have had failures of these zippers early (I did in a 30's HB). That same 30's HB has a #10 YKK in it now. Just something to consider...now the wait begins!

 

[Guppy]

Sounds great! I hope you will indeed enjoy it very much! I like the black/red lining combination.

I thought of only one other thought - the main zipper. You may like a #8 or so in terms of size uinstead of the standard #5. I find my #5 in a couple Aero's to be pretty hard to get started zipping, and some have had failures of these zippers early (I did in a 30's HB). That same 30's HB has a #10 YKK in it now. Just something to consider...now the wait begins!

Seconded.

 

[Peacoat]

Sounds great! I hope you will indeed enjoy it very much! I like the black/red lining combination.

I thought of only one other thought - the main zipper. You may like a #8 or so in terms of size uinstead of the standard #5. I find my #5 in a couple Aero's to be pretty hard to get started zipping, and some have had failures of these zippers early (I did in a 30's HB). That same 30's HB has a #10 YKK in it now. Just something to consider...now the wait begins!

My Thunder Bay now has a #10 Talon in it after constant problems, and finally failure, with the #5.

Seconded.

Thirded.

 

[handymike]

Will Aero do a #8 zipper?

 

[sweetfights]

Sounds great! I hope you will indeed enjoy it very much! I like the black/red lining combination.

I thought of only one other thought - the main zipper. You may like a #8 or so in terms of size uinstead of the standard #5. I find my #5 in a couple Aero's to be pretty hard to get started zipping, and some have had failures of these zippers early (I did in a 30's HB). That same 30's HB has a #10 YKK in it now. Just something to consider...now the wait begins!

very true on the main zipper size!!!

 

[Carlos840]

Both my Aeros have no 5 Talons and they have never felt weak or too small to me.

 

[VestCoast]

I had actually asked Carrie about getting a larger main zip but she said that Aero doesn't offer a zipper larger than the 5 in order to keep the jacket close to the original design. The number 5 worked fine for me on the fit jacket and I like that it hides pretty easily behind the welts. That being said, the zipper will only be working light duty down here in Austin most of the year.

 

[Guppy]

I had actually asked Carrie about getting a larger main zip but she said that Aero doesn't offer a zipper larger than the 5 in order to keep the jacket close to the original design. The number 5 worked fine for me on the fit jacket and I like that it hides pretty easily behind the welts. That being said, the zipper will only be working light duty down here in Austin most of the year.

Aero can do larger zippers on request, but they don't like to. I think when you're dealing with heavy CXL horse or steer, it's a good idea, even if it's not "period correct". On their lighter weight hides, a #5 is fine.

 

[AeroFan_07]

My 30's Half-belt is a 8.5 lb Steerhide jacket, and the #10 makes it a lot more usable. My #5 Talon zipper would part out and spread open from the bottom. I would not worry about the zipper all that much, as you indicate, in Texas you may not be using it much. However if and when you ever need another zipper, you will indeed have options.

 

[ton312]

After consulting with Carrie and mulling over the excellent advice provided here I have settled on the following specs:

-Black CXL FQHH

-Black Stitching

-V yoke (not a western single point)

-No shoulder gussets

-Zipped Handwarmers, closed down

-Wine Sateen liner in body and sleeves

-2 chest pockets, slightly angled inward and deep

-2 interior pockets, no closures

-Interior and Exterior Kidney panel

-Highwayman collar

-Brass hardware


I decided to go with the black CXL FQHH because I think it will be the most versatile and as others have said, is a good first jacket color. The brown on the fit jacket was really spectacular but I think will ultimately be a little less wearable for me. I particularly like the tea core aging effect with the Black CXL FQHH which will match my Red Wing Klondike Engineer boots.

I didn’t find the zipper opening on the handwarmer pockets irritating enough to sway me from the clean look that the pockets have when zipped shut. I will have them specced to close down however, as I think it improves the silhouette. I am planning on going with brass hardware with I think will make the pockets look even better against the black.

I think I am leaning towards the Highwayman collar over the August. I found the mandarin collar on the fit jacket to be very uncomfortable, pushing against the back of my neck pretty considerably when standing. That, and the fact that the fit jacket was purchased by someone else from the Thurston Bros. site while in transit to me made keeping the fit jacket a non-option.

I am planning to stick with the size 40. The jacket was comfortable and I could reach all the pockets, answer a phone, drink out of a mug, etc. without trouble. I could fit a medium weight sweatshirt underneath the fit jacket and still feel reasonably comfortable. I would consider sizing up to a 42 if the shoulders didn’t feel perfect in the 40. The 42 seems to have an extra 0.75” on average in width which would be excessive on my frame, and make the back look worse. I did notice in the fit pictures that the waist in the back looks very trim/tight compared to the shoulders, which might contribute to the upper back looking worse in general. I am wondering whether adding 0.5” to the side panels would address this, or if just breaking in the jacket is the best course. I will say that the sizing has me a little apprehensive. I have always straddled the line between M/L and have become rather brand loyal when something actually fits.

I believe that if my jacket is made to be similar in size to the fit jacket with a little less material in the back, I will be very happy with how it fits.

I wouldn't add anything to the side panels! The fit at the waist is good! The 40" CR @23" p2p is the average. My 42" is about 24.5" and I think that's within the norm (+/- .5"). The rest of your order seems spot on. I personally prefer the shoulder gussets as I believe Aero has refined the design to actually function and I think they actually clean up the back but I can see why folks want to omit them. I use the same back config (at the shoulders) on all my Aero's and my latest order will have it as well.

Black with brass is an excellent choice! I love the way the shiny brass/gold looks against black leather.

Your spec's sound really good and I think you are crafting an everyday wearer that will also be a showstopper. Now you have to try and enjoy the misery of waiting for it to be built.

 

[Logician]

Both my Aeros have no 5 Talons and they have never felt weak or too small to me.

What about the pulls: Do you think there are big and robust enough? Some claim (FL) that the failure rate is higher for a #5 Talon pull than for a #10 Talon (not the Scovill #10 with paper clip pull). I'm curious because I've just received a LW Brown Test with a #5 Talon as main zipper. All my other LW Suburbans have either a #10 Scovill with paper clip pulls or a #10 Talon with a standard long pull. I just want to know if there is trouble in the offing?

 

[Peacoat]

I have had big trouble with the #5 zip, as I have documented here. I will never have another small zipper on a FQHH jacket or a heavy steer jacket. If Aero won't accommodate me with a large zipper, then I won't buy the jacket. The replacement for a failed zipper is just too expensive to justify—over $200.

I will say the #5 zip in my Sheene has worked fine, as has the #5 zip on my Highwayman and my Eastman Luftwaffe. There just was too much material in the ThunderBay for it too work as intended. Plus it was installed improperly, which guaranteed its eventual failure. So, no more #5 zips for me.