Advice on jacket for my body type

[Bobopalooza]

Hi Everyone,

This is my first post. Please let me know if this should be under a separate thread (not fully sure how it works).

I've been thinking about getting my first Aero jacket made and love how the Highwayman/Sheene-type styles look. That said, I have weird body proportions (big shoulders, wide hips, long legs, short torso). See attached images (belly button is like directly below my chest). You can see how far my current jacket extends beyond my tucked in shirt in the one image (this jacket does feel too long to me).

From those with experience....does it look ok to wear these styles slightly longer (midway down the ****)? I feel like cropping a Highwayman at my belt might just look awkwardly short and wide. I'd probably mostly wear with untucked t shirts and henleys (but would want the ability to look good tucked in). Would like a closer fitting overall look (no need for layering hoodies underneath or anything). Also love the way the CXL FQHH looks on pictures here.

I am open to ideas (jacket styles, types of leather, fit, etc.). I do love wearing leather jackets and just want it to really pop. I know there's a lot of great collective knowledge here. Thank you, all!

 

[Bobopalooza]

I think something like a slim short bodied A1/2 bomber type would work better, and some jeans with less taper.

Something like what thedi is wearing here:

View attachment 810531

But I think the better idea is to go look at thedi’s stock picks, he’s pretty tall and likes to wear cropped jackets with high rise pants, he’s pretty much got that look nailed down, and he models many of his designs and they all have a full body fit picture.

He appears a bit thinner than you, and he does dive a bit into cosplay on some stock pics, but you’ll get a good idea of how different designs could potentially look on you.

Here’s a link to his stock pics catalog:
https://thedi-leathers.com/product-category/jackets/

Thank you! I will check out these Thedi looks. Appreciate the feedback.

 

[Bobopalooza]

I forgot to mention but I suggest you think about the leather type you’ll want to use.

Cxlfqhh is great but also very rigid and that’ll add structure to the jacket, which in turn adds visual volume to the look because it doesn’t drape or bend around your body.

For example that jacket you’re wearing would look really different if it were made of cxlfqhh, like waaay different, like you would only see a strip of the Tshirt at most and more volume in the shoulders and sleeves.

If you want something tough but easier to move in try some thick goat, or thick deer if you want the softest and best drape, but even mid weight veg tan hh would give you a less top heavy look than something in cxl.

Great point. Does that change over time as the cxl hh breaks in? That one I'm wearing is pretty loose (I wouldn't mind it feeling thicker).

Part of my thinking with the Highwayman is that its boxier fit would hang off my wide shoulders belter than a slimmer model (since I have no V taper really) and kind of flatter the chest more. I think you are right about trying straight fit jeans over the slimmer ones, too.

Also, to your A2 suggestion....I'd like pockets I could rest my hands in. Not sure if that is doable with that model.

 

[Monitor]

Don't wear those jeans ever again in your life.

You need low-rise jeans, regular or wider cut. If you insist on a slim fitting pair, a discreet boot cut will balance things out. Avoid belts altogether as you don't want the waist of your trousers firmly fixed and more importantly, you want to avoid the sharp visual boundary created by it (which makes your torso look much shorter than it is). Creating a seamless flow between your clothes will make either of the two jacket styles you mentioned, work for you.

Don't worry about the shoulders, especially not on a Highwayman. You're good there.

 

[Bobopalooza]

Don't wear those jeans ever again in your life.

You need low-rise jeans, regular or wider cut. If you insist on a slim fitting pair, a discreet boot cut will balance things out. Avoid belts altogether as you don't want the waist of your trousers firmly fixed and more importantly, you want to avoid the sharp visual boundary created by it (which makes your torso look much shorter than it is). Creating a seamless flow between your clothes will make either of the two jacket styles you mentioned, work for you.

Don't worry about the shoulders, especially not on a Highwayman. You're good there.

Yikes. Ok then. Thank you.

Are you suggesting I just wear shirts untucked? Or...are you saying to tuck, just without a belt (or both)?

Do you recommend the jacket be a certain length here as well?

 

[Bobopalooza]

Don't wear those jeans ever again in your life.

You need low-rise jeans, regular or wider cut. If you insist on a slim fitting pair, a discreet boot cut will balance things out. Avoid belts altogether as you don't want the waist of your trousers firmly fixed and more importantly, you want to avoid the sharp visual boundary created by it (which makes your torso look much shorter than it is). Creating a seamless flow between your clothes will make either of the two jacket styles you mentioned, work for you.

Don't worry about the shoulders, especially not on a Highwayman. You're good there.

I'd also be open to specific denim brand/style suggestions, if you happen to know of any. This is an area I haven't dug too deeply in. I know raw denim is a big rabbit hole but something higher quality that's not just ridiculously thick or hard to maintain would be cool to check out.

 

[Monitor]

Are you suggesting I just wear shirts untucked? Or...are you saying to tuck, just without a belt (or both)?

No, tucking or untucking your shirt should never be the deciding factor. That's your call. But a belt shouldn't visually cut you in half like that.

My mildly controversial take is that belts are purely accessories and that whoever says they absolutely need a belt, should reconsider their jeans size.

Do you recommend the jacket be a certain length here as well?

Again, once correctly proportioned, the rest of your outfit will no longer dictate the length of your jacket. Your instinct is on the money, though - You would benefit from a shorter, boxier style, such as the Highwayman.
As for the "Sheene", which is actually Aero's Cafe Racer, I'm afraid you'd need to oversize with extensive length alterations which creates a whole bunch of other issues & all that for zero benefits over simply going with a Highwayman.

I'd also be open to specific denim brand/style suggestions, if you happen to know of any. This is an area I haven't dug too deeply in. I know raw denim is a big rabbit hole but something higher quality that's not just ridiculously thick or hard to maintain would be cool to check out.

I personally am strongly opposed to the concept of the supposed high-end denim, something I have often addressed in the past so I won't go into it again (everything can become a rabbit hole if you dig it up yourself) so my suggestion is that you completely ignore the whole luxury denim hype and stick to the usual suspects like Levi's, Lee, Wrangler, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, etc.. From there you could upgrade to brands like Naked & Famous, Edwin, Nudie, and 3sixteen - Brands that denim nerds often file under budget / entry level, even though you won't get a single quantifiable advantage by any supposed high-end name.

 

[Bobopalooza]

I appreciate your time and thoughts here. Thank you. I think less contrasty shirt/pants colors might help the "seamless flow between clothes" too. The white t shirt is just such a common look.

I got it in my head years ago that I didn't want to be swimming in fabric (with regards to jeans). I'm aware now though that a straighter cut could help that knee valgus thing and balance things out more.

Thoughts on whether cuffing jeans would shorten the legs visually a bit? I assume not but haven't tried.

 

[raf]

On first page of this thread: https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/how-to-measure-a-jacket-correctly-tutorial.15194/ are instructions on how to measure for a typical WW 2 Flight jacket. Same technique of measuring will be reliable for most all jackets. Strongly suggest "Inflating" one's chest prior to measuring chest--will be beneficial. Most folks suggest ordering "UP" a chest size for G-1 and A-2 jackets for max comfort and possible use of thin fleece jacket in early winter. Jackets always easier to wear if a little too-long in some dimensions, compared to too-short in same dimensions. Personal Torso/Arm length may not be precisely related to chest size. NEVER skimp on torso/arm length in the hope that a slightly larger chest size will fully compensate. It's "understood" that most jackets will have their sleeves and perhaps bodies "contract" significantly post-production, and after some use. Again, a little too long might be the sweet spot. Do your homework.

As for the rest of your non-jacket requirements, I don't know.

 

[hivecanary]

What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?

This is an indoor picture which shows better details of the jacket. So hard to find these jackets in a decent size.

www.thefedoralounge.com

I cannot for the life of me find any way to crowbar fedora lounge into functioning correctly, so this is the best i can manage. Anything worn by the member TheOldFashion that looks good on him will likely look great on you too, as there are a lot of body type similarities

 

[Bobopalooza]

http://[URL]https://www.thefedoralo...ou-wearing-today.82949/page-3229#post-3270702

[/URL]



I cannot for the life of me find any way to crowbar fedora lounge into functioning correctly, so this is the best i can manage. Anything worn by the member TheOldFashion that looks good on him will likely look great on you too, as there are a lot of body type similarities

Thank you and good call! He does have a similar body type. Really appreciate the link.

 

[TheOldFashioned]

http://[URL]https://www.thefedoralo...ou-wearing-today.82949/page-3229#post-3270702

[/URL]



I cannot for the life of me find any way to crowbar fedora lounge into functioning correctly, so this is the best i can manage. Anything worn by the member TheOldFashion that looks good on him will likely look great on you too, as there are a lot of body type similarities

Thank you and good call! He does have a similar body type. Really appreciate the link.

I appreciate the shoutout, but am going to have to respectfully disagree with this comparison. My specs are 5'9", 147lb, 31" waist, and I cuff my denim 29.5 - 30" inseam.

 

[Bobopalooza]

It looks like you kind of have the longer leg/shorter torso thing I have (maybe it is just your pants style). I am definitely thicker than you though....so maybe your outfits wouldn't transfer well. Thank you for weighing in.

 

[hivecanary]

By similar body type specifically mean mass in the shoulders, waist and hips is relatively evenly distributed, and the arms and legs are also fairly straight from joint to tip. Trying to wear a severe triangular fit fights against the form, with something like the aero 30s half belt you posted pushing up against that limit but still looks fantastic. I think your selnsenof style, proportion, fit, and line/curve composition would also work well with the initial poster

 

[hivecanary]

Someone like ton312 would be a bad style start point because he's very triangular with shoulder mass that works well with broad shouldered styles. To me the specific measurements of a person are less important for style than where seams, angles, curves, and the sense of mass hit on the body. You'll always need to be able to apply your measurements to the thing your looking at, but silhouette that fits a body type can be adjust in measurement, when a silhouette doesnt it also doesnt matter if the measurements are perfect.

 

[TheOldFashioned]

I have weird body proportions (big shoulders, wide hips, long legs, short torso).

Then OPs description seems to run counter to your argument. I don't think anyone would ever say I have big shoulders, wide hips, and long legs.

Many of my jackets I sourced from Japan and one of the common, though not universal, features is that jackets of that market are notoriously narrow in the shoulders.

That being said, I do agree that finding styles/patterns that fit your body type is ideal. Your assessment of not using @ton312 as starting point for OP is spot on in my opinion.

I've been on this jacket journey for several years now, and only relatively recently have I started to feel like I have a decent understanding of what works best for me. A lot of it was learned through trial and error. But I still enjoy older acquisitions that aren't necessarily ideal. I don't let chasing perfect stand in the way of trying and enjoying good enough.

 

[TheOldFashioned]

My chest to waist drop is 7-8", which isn't extreme, but definitely not tubular. I think 6" drop is considered standard. These jackets have the most V-cut in my collection, Vanson C, Cal CHP, and HD Cylce Champ (Elvis version):

 

[raf]

I think it essential for OP (or anyone) to understand how to measure their body. In almost all cases, this is done with a flexible cloth tape measure, and nothing else.

Reading the first page of this thread (do read on if you like) will supply the universally approved method for body measurement for Jackets: https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/how-to-measure-a-jacket-correctly-tutorial.15194/

Using above measuring techniques to measure an existing jacket, preferably a jacket that fits one decently, is a good way to discover what dimensions one needs.

Understanding Jacket/Body measurements allows one to compare with Mfr/Vendor jackets. It is important to note that some independent internet sellers find it impossible to measure jackets in this manner, and often provide little beyond OEM sizing label. In this case, go to OEM site and hope that their modern sizing has not changed from when the original item was made.

Not all jacket Mfrs use the same method of determining body measurements for their jackets as posted above. Strongly suggest working with them and using their measurement system.

With most A-2 and G-1 leather flight jackets, ordering "UP" one chest size often seems to provide more comfort and possibly room for a decent thin fleece vest which will extend the use of the jacket a bit.

My personal rule of thumb is that a jacket tht is a "little" too Long/Large is MUCH easier to comfortably wear than one that is a little too Small/Short

 

[hivecanary]

I think its the camera distortion and angle that have been playing tricks on my eyes, emphasizing central width and and shortening the top and elongating the bottom. I love your style across the board, your use of pant leg flairs, a high belt line, and weight and texture and how it draws the eye up and down, all of which felt applicable here. But those measurements are a great example of trying to be cognizant of how something looks on screen vs in real life.

 

[TheOldFashioned]

I think its the camera distortion and angle that have been playing tricks on my eyes, emphasizing central width and and shortening the top and elongating the bottom. I love your style across the board, your use of pant leg flairs, a high belt line, and weight and texture and how it draws the eye up and down, all of which felt applicable here. But those measurements are a great example of trying to be cognizant of how something looks on screen vs in real life.

My camera skills are definitely second rate. I just use my phone camera, propped on a valet/butler stand, so there's likely some distortion going on.

But I have definitely embraced the high belt line because I think it provides better balance for my outfits for me personally. (And the older I get I simply find high rise pants more comfortable!) Early on when I started collecting "cool" jackets, it was just a singular item I was forcing into my then wardrobe. I spent two or three years revamping it and embraced more of a vintage/retro/heritage style. So instead of low rise mall denim I now wear high(er) rise heavier weights. I'm not really into sick fades with my denim. I'm more interested in textures and/or colors.

I then applied the same mindset to shirts and footwear. My latest focus the past year or so has been on accessories - belts, buckles, rings, etc. It all forms a more cohesive whole, which is what I lacked early on. That's why I think my fits today are vastly better than say five years ago. And I learned most of it from all the fine folks here, sharing their knowledge and showcasing their outfits.

My apologies to OP for highjacking this thread.