Advice on jacket for my body type

[hivecanary]

Dorian on Instagram

47K likes, 323 comments - dexterousdoor on September 29, 2026

www.instagram.com

I like this video because it gets at part of whats hard about expanding our fashion horizons: as long as your budget allows its okay to not get it right the first time and maybe look 'bad' for a bit, you'll learn from every new experiment and attempt, and you'll make a super interesting gallery of memories and reference material along the way. You can try lighterweight cheaper thrift store stuff thats similar to the higher end style your aiming for before commiting to the bigger purchase.

I think things like high waisted pants is useful to jacket suggestions because it does change how the total ensemble is percieved. A 'too long' jacket that otherwise fits well might look right with a change of pants and shoes.

 

[Edward]

Hi Everyone,

This is my first post. Please let me know if this should be under a separate thread (not fully sure how it works).

I've been thinking about getting my first Aero jacket made and love how the Highwayman/Sheene-type styles look. That said, I have weird body proportions (big shoulders, wide hips, long legs, short torso). See attached images (belly button is like directly below my chest). You can see how far my current jacket extends beyond my tucked in shirt in the one image (this jacket does feel too long to me).

From those with experience....does it look ok to wear these styles slightly longer (midway down the ****)? I feel like cropping a Highwayman at my belt might just look awkwardly short and wide. I'd probably mostly wear with untucked t shirts and henleys (but would want the ability to look good tucked in). Would like a closer fitting overall look (no need for layering hoodies underneath or anything). Also love the way the CXL FQHH looks on pictures here.

I am open to ideas (jacket styles, types of leather, fit, etc.). I do love wearing leather jackets and just want it to really pop. I know there's a lot of great collective knowledge here. Thank you, all!

My two cents, *never* try to elongate a jacket out of the proportions of the original design; it'll throw it all out of whack and just look wrong. If you've ever seen a Perfecto or even a Harrington style jacket with a 28"/29" body (and all else "normal"), you'll notice it just looks utterly wrong. That's what happens when you take an older style and elongate it to match modern trousers with a "waistband" that's four inches south of the natural waist. Better instead to look for a jacket design that was always intended to be longer.

 

[Bobopalooza]

http://[URL]https://www.instagram.com/reel/Dd5GqKgMW_5/?stkn=MWVubnN6aGEwOXc3Zg==

[/URL]

I like this video because it gets at part of whats hard about expanding our fashion horizons: as long as your budget allows its okay to not get it right the first time and maybe look 'bad' for a bit, you'll learn from every new experiment and attempt, and you'll make a super interesting gallery of memories and reference material along the way. You can try lighterweight cheaper thrift store stuff thats similar to the higher end style your aiming for before commiting to the bigger purchase.

I think things like high waisted pants is useful to jacket suggestions because it does change how the total ensemble is percieved. A 'too long' jacket that otherwise fits well might look right with a change of pants and shoes.

This was cool!

 

[Bobopalooza]

My camera skills are definitely second rate. I just use my phone camera, propped on a valet/butler stand, so there's likely some distortion going on.

But I have definitely embraced the high belt line because I think it provides better balance for my outfits for me personally. (And the older I get I simply find high rise pants more comfortable!) Early on when I started collecting "cool" jackets, it was just a singular item I was forcing into my then wardrobe. I spent two or three years revamping it and embraced more of a vintage/retro/heritage style. So instead of low rise mall denim I now wear high(er) rise heavier weights. I'm not really into sick fades with my denim. I'm more interested in textures and/or colors.

I then applied the same mindset to shirts and footwear. My latest focus the past year or so has been on accessories - belts, buckles, rings, etc. It all forms a more cohesive whole, which is what I lacked early on. That's why I think my fits today are vastly better than say five years ago. And I learned most of it from all the fine folks here, sharing their knowledge and showcasing their outfits.

My apologies to OP for highjacking this thread.

No this is all great. I am learning a lot here and love the comments. Where did you land that cool red/grey flat cap?

 

[Tom71]

Hi Everyone,

This is my first post. Please let me know if this should be under a separate thread (not fully sure how it works).

I've been thinking about getting my first Aero jacket made and love how the Highwayman/Sheene-type styles look. That said, I have weird body proportions (big shoulders, wide hips, long legs, short torso). See attached images (belly button is like directly below my chest). You can see how far my current jacket extends beyond my tucked in shirt in the one image (this jacket does feel too long to me).

From those with experience....does it look ok to wear these styles slightly longer (midway down the ****)? I feel like cropping a Highwayman at my belt might just look awkwardly short and wide. I'd probably mostly wear with untucked t shirts and henleys (but would want the ability to look good tucked in). Would like a closer fitting overall look (no need for layering hoodies underneath or anything). Also love the way the CXL FQHH looks on pictures here.

I am open to ideas (jacket styles, types of leather, fit, etc.). I do love wearing leather jackets and just want it to really pop. I know there's a lot of great collective knowledge here. Thank you, all!

Nothing wrong ith your body. It´s all abut how you dress.

I do concur with what @Monitor says here.

With your proportions, slim, highrise jeans will only make your legs look longer. I would play around with different cuts, but a starting point could be a midrise 1950´s cut with generous legs and no taper. I have come to like them, and strictly wear them on my hip-bones (technically, they should lend at the waist, but I like it more a bit lower, and you may profit as well).

I am not so sure that jackets that are already meant to be short will be the optimal solution. They may end up looking too "Bolero" style.
Best shot would be to go somewhere, where you can try on different styles. Outside this, a carcoat-style jacket may work for you as it kind of overrides the vertical marker waist/shirt.

Where are you based?

 

[TheOldFashioned]

No this is all great. I am learning a lot here and love the comments. Where did you land that cool red/grey flat cap?

I managed to get that cap secondhand here through the Classifieds from a fellow member, but it's originally from a favorite maker of mine, The Well Dressed Head by Keith Lo Bue. I have half a dozen caps from Keith. He's an artisan based in Australia that specializes in making custom caps from vintage and/or antique material. Here's the spec card for that cap:

You can find him on Instagram and Etsy.

I originally came to the forum for hats and then ventured over to the Outerwear section for jackets. Caps pair well with jackets and seem to be less intimidating to the general public than a fedora or cowboy hat. (Not that I particularly care about that last part.)

I know your original intent for this thread was asking about advice for a jacket, but for what it's worth, I agree with both @Monitor and @Tom71 regarding mid-rise, wider cuts pants for you. I think this would create better balance overall, which would then serve as a basis for determining a jacket. To Tom's point, if you have an opportunity to try different styles on in person that would be ideal.

And at the end of day, all that really matters is that you are happy with the end result. The 99% of the general populous that you come across during the day is too worried about their own lives to give two sh***s about what you're wearing. I do think people recognize effort and a nice fit, but even then, they seldom will go out of their way to comment/compliment on it out and about in public. Feel good about yourself without any outside validation, including a bunch of Likes from random dudes on the Internet, and you'll be doing alright.

That being said, listening to the advice provided by the members here will likely assist you in finding a style that works for you.

 

[rodgerrr]

I can sympathize with the OP here. About 12 years ago I had a major infection - lost a disk and had two vertebrae fuze in my lower back - and so lost length in my torso. I am now around 5'9" with a 47" chest which is a royal pain wrt finding clothes that fit. I've also become addicted to acquiring numerous leather jackets! Here's what I've found works for me:

Understand that different styles of leather jackets are better worn at different lengths. Anything that is meant to tighten at the waist at the hem: A2, trucker style, etc is meant to be short - meaning for me 24" long or even less. Jackets like half belts can be worn longer (25-26 inches works for me).

Do not buy anything on-line unless the length is specified. For most brands I wear an XL or 44 - and mass produced jackets of that size are meant for someone 6-2.

Yes: as was mentioned earlier - go to the store if possible and try it on - like you would a new suit. There you'll get a good idea of what works for you. There are jackets out there which have a boxy fit which a highwayman and 50 halfbelt have or a tapered fit which a sheen and 30's half belt have. You'll have some issue as our hips are wider than our waist and the longer the jacket is the wider the bottom opening needs to be.

Consider a custom jacket. Theodorous at Thedi is great to work with and will tell you what will work for your body type. He will custom make you a jacket to your measurements. Once you get the idea of what works for you - you'll be able to pick out items that work for you based on measurements (chest, shoulders, length, etc) which is what a lot of guys on this site do.

 

[Bobopalooza]

I managed to get that cap secondhand here through the Classifieds from a fellow member, but it's originally from a favorite maker of mine, The Well Dressed Head by Keith Lo Bue. I have half a dozen caps from Keith. He's an artisan based in Australia that specializes in making custom caps from vintage and/or antique material. Here's the spec card for that cap:
View attachment 814613

You can find him on Instagram and Etsy.

I originally came to the forum for hats and then ventured over to the Outerwear section for jackets. Caps pair well with jackets and seem to be less intimidating to the general public than a fedora or cowboy hat. (Not that I particularly care about that last part.)

I know your original intent for this thread was asking about advice for a jacket, but for what it's worth, I agree with both @Monitor and @Tom71 regarding mid-rise, wider cuts pants for you. I think this would create better balance overall, which would then serve as a basis for determining a jacket. To Tom's point, if you have an opportunity to try different styles on in person that would be ideal.

And at the end of day, all that really matters is that you are happy with the end result. The 99% of the general populous that you come across during the day is too worried about their own lives to give two sh***s about what you're wearing. I do think people recognize effort and a nice fit, but even then, they seldom will go out of their way to comment/compliment on it out and about in public. Feel good about yourself without any outside validation, including a bunch of Likes from random dudes on the Internet, and you'll be doing alright.

That being said, listening to the advice provided by the members here will likely assist you in finding a style that works for you.

That's awesome...thanks for the hat info! Unique idea with the old fabrics. I will probably lurk in the jeans/hat/shirt sections now. I agree on the self-happiness thing too. It's nice to outgrow insecurities. Still...also nice to receive compliments from other sharply dressed dudes.

I noticed a pair of what looked like red denim you had on it one of your photos. Those looked really cool.

 

[Bobopalooza]

Nothing wrong ith your body. It´s all abut how you dress.

I do concur with what @Monitor says here.

With your proportions, slim, highrise jeans will only make your legs look longer. I would play around with different cuts, but a starting point could be a midrise 1950´s cut with generous legs and no taper. I have come to like them, and strictly wear them on my hip-bones (technically, they should lend at the waist, but I like it more a bit lower, and you may profit as well).

I am not so sure that jackets that are already meant to be short will be the optimal solution. They may end up looking too "Bolero" style.
Best shot would be to go somewhere, where you can try on different styles. Outside this, a carcoat-style jacket may work for you as it kind of overrides the vertical marker waist/shirt.

Where are you based?

Thank you for the suggestions! Yeah, the pants I'm wearing in the pictures are mid-rise and sitting on my hip bones. I think anything high-waisted might look a little cartoony.

I am in the Cedar Rapids/Coralville, IA area.

 

[Bobopalooza]

I can sympathize with the OP here. About 12 years ago I had a major infection - lost a disk and had two vertebrae fuze in my lower back - and so lost length in my torso. I am now around 5'9" with a 47" chest which is a royal pain wrt finding clothes that fit. I've also become addicted to acquiring numerous leather jackets! Here's what I've found works for me:

Understand that different styles of leather jackets are better worn at different lengths. Anything that is meant to tighten at the waist at the hem: A2, trucker style, etc is meant to be short - meaning for me 24" long or even less. Jackets like half belts can be worn longer (25-26 inches works for me).

Do not buy anything on-line unless the length is specified. For most brands I wear an XL or 44 - and mass produced jackets of that size are meant for someone 6-2.

Yes: as was mentioned earlier - go to the store if possible and try it on - like you would a new suit. There you'll get a good idea of what works for you. There are jackets out there which have a boxy fit which a highwayman and 50 halfbelt have or a tapered fit which a sheen and 30's half belt have. You'll have some issue as our hips are wider than our waist and the longer the jacket is the wider the bottom opening needs to be.

Consider a custom jacket. Theodorous at Thedi is great to work with and will tell you what will work for your body type. He will custom make you a jacket to your measurements. Once you get the idea of what works for you - you'll be able to pick out items that work for you based on measurements (chest, shoulders, length, etc) which is what a lot of guys on this site do.

Spine surgery does not sound fun and hope all is good. Thank you for the advice. Curious if you prefer the shorter 24" jackets vs the 26" ones? I don't mind the idea of a shorter jacket as long as there is room to put my hands in the pockets (if I can balance the legs out with the right jeans). I for sure need to try some different ones on.

 

[rodgerrr]

Spine surgery does not sound fun and hope all is good. Thank you for the advice. Curious if you prefer the shorter 24" jackets vs the 26" ones? I don't mind the idea of a shorter jacket as long as there is room to put my hands in the pockets (if I can balance the legs out with the right jeans). I for sure need to try some different ones on.

Re what length I like is a function of what type of jacket it is and how it is meant to be worn. For years I really wanted a trucker jacket (a leather version of a Levis jacket) and found they look really bad when too long. I've seen some on here of that type sold as short as 22". I finally had Theodorous make me one (two actually). On the flip side some half belts - like the Atlas sold through Thurston Bros - are busy in front (lots of pockets) and need to be a little long. Trucker jackets are made with and without pockets for your hands - and, I think, probably look best without those pockets. A2 types also come with and without pockets for your hands. The A2's made to emulate WWII types have patch type pockets that are hard to get your hands into. There are several A2 types, however, made with these lower "patch type" pockets and pockets for your hands behind them. Those jackets are made to be worn a little short and loose so easier to get right. Half belt types nearly always come with pockets for your hands and in like a jillion different styles. It is an easier style to get right - fit wise - I think. If you want one like that - call Carrie at Thurston Bros and she can fix you up with a "fit jacket" from which she can sort out the adjustments to get it right,

 

[TheOldFashioned]

That's awesome...thanks for the hat info! Unique idea with the old fabrics. I will probably lurk in the jeans/hat/shirt sections now. I agree on the self-happiness thing too. It's nice to outgrow insecurities. Still...also nice to receive compliments from other sharply dressed dudes.

I noticed a pair of what looked like red denim you had on it one of your photos. Those looked really cool.

Thanks, they're Civilianaire, though you can find similar made by Naked & Famous, Gustin, et. al.