Aero patterns for thin guys?

[Bmiller01]

i’ve been looking at getting a new aero for a little bit now and i’ve gone back and forth between a few different styles, Teamster, Barnstormer, Maxwell and Long half belt…etc. Im pretty sure i want a longer jacket/coat, i’m just not sure if any thin guys have experience with any of these.
I’ve heard it to make sure you get a pattern that fits your body shape so that it feels and looks good as well. of course a tweak here and there for a custom jacket is no problem, but to change an entire patter around to make it fit your body just doesn’t make sense.

I also know for a fact that i want CXL FQHH, the heavy weight, stiffness, almost armor like that will mold to your body and show amazing grain sounds exactly like what i want but i’ve heard that some patterns it really just doesn’t work well with and i want to make sure i get one that it does.

For reference i’m 5’11”/1.8M -150LBS/68KG with fairly wide shoulders, so to have someone with some taper, or be able to get it taken in, would be ideal, i really don’t want to end up putting it on for the first time and it looking like i’m wearing a trash bag lol.

I would love to hear anyone’s opinion and observations as most have had 10x more experience than me.

Thank you,
B

 

[MrProper]

As a slim person, you really have to like long jackets if you're considering them. Personally, I don't like them on slim people, especially if they have broad shoulders. In my opinion, it looks a bit disproportionate.

I'm slim and tall and don't wear long leather jackets

I think Aero's slim patterns are the best, e.g., the Premier Highwayman.

But of course, tastes vary.

 

[Bmiller01]

thank you! i didn’t know that the premier hwm is a slimmer pattern, i guess ill have to look closer at the descriptions of each jacket on the website!

like i said i think i want a longer jacket, but im not married to the idea, especially if a shorter jacket would in fact fit or look better, i guess it’s just hard to really know without them in your hands haha

 

[Pandemic]

Tall slim(ish) guy here. Another consideration is the silhouette of the jacket, not just long versus short or slim versus full cut. Some are more cylindrical, some hourglass and some trapezoid (big shoulders narrowing down to the waist). For my build, I think the latter is most flattering.

 

[Edward]

Worth speaking directly to Aero as they know their product line and how all models fit. The big mistake to avoid is trying to slim down or size down a pattern like the Barnstormer which is designed to have room in it for layering, and to be worn as more of an overcoat than a jacket. I've seen that done over the years (in leather, peacoats, overcoats of all sorts...), and it always looks wrong. If you want something to wear over just a shirt (more like a blazer than an overcoat, in terms of layering), you'd be better off with a shorter jacket. In the longer styles, though, the Hudson is worth looking as as a longer jacket. I'd consider one of those myself as a warmer jacket I would wear over lighter layering in place of a blazer when it's cold enough for more than a blazer but too warm for a blazer and a full overcoat.

As ever, nothing beats either a trip to Aero, or at least an Aero stockist to try on various options if that's possible.

 

[Bmiller01]

Tall slim(ish) guy here. Another consideration is the silhouette of the jacket, not just long versus short or slim versus full cut. Some are more cylindrical, some hourglass and some trapezoid (big shoulders narrowing down to the waist). For my build, I think the latter is most flattering.

absolutely, i do think that a trapezoid silhouette would be what i would need, i absolutely dread the over blousy hem!

 

[Bmiller01]

Worth speaking directly to Aero as they know their product line and how all models fit. The big mistake to avoid is trying to slim down or size down a pattern like the Barnstormer which is designed to have room in it for layering, and to be worn as more of an overcoat than a jacket. I've seen that done over the years (in leather, peacoats, overcoats of all sorts...), and it always looks wrong. If you want something to wear over just a shirt (more like a blazer than an overcoat, in terms of layering), you'd be better off with a shorter jacket. In the longer styles, though, the Hudson is worth looking as as a longer jacket. I'd consider one of those myself as a warmer jacket I would wear over lighter layering in place of a blazer when it's cold enough for more than a blazer but too warm for a blazer and a full overcoat.

As ever, nothing beats either a trip to Aero, or at least an Aero stockist to try on various options if that's possible.

yeah, if i was in the UK, I would have to take a trip over there.

thank you! i do think you made a good point in ‘how’ i plan to wear it should also play a huge part in fit as well. i do want a heavier, bigger coat, something to layer a sweater or something over so that i think is why i lean more toward a middle length/past the belt but not fully coving Bum length.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Board Racer is a very good option if taller/slimmer of size.

 

[ProteinNerd]

You can also get 0.5 inch reduction in each side of the waist. I've had it done in a few jackets in the past with success but it can be a gamble. Best to talk to Aero if in the UK or Thurston Bros if USA if you are going to start really messing with sizing but as @AeroFan_07 suggested, the Board Racer is a great slightly longer Cafe Racer style for slimmer guys.

 

[MrProper]

the Board Racer is a great slightly longer Cafe Racer style for slimmer guys.

However, it can be difficult if your shoulders are relatively broad compared to the rest of your body.

At least for me, the pattern wasn't right. So I got a custom-made version based on the PHWM pattern.

But otherwise, the Boardracer is pretty cool.

 

[Bmiller01]

You can also get 0.5 inch reduction in each side of the waist. I've had it done in a few jackets in the past with success but it can be a gamble. Best to talk to Aero if in the UK or Thurston Bros if USA if you are going to start really messing with sizing but as @AeroFan_07 suggested, the Board Racer is a great slightly longer Cafe Racer style for slimmer guys.

yeah talking with thurston is definitely going to be the move. they for sure would know more than i would, what to do and the best way to go about it.

 

[Bmiller01]

However, it can be difficult if your shoulders are relatively broad compared to the rest of your body.

At least for me, the pattern wasn't right. So I got a custom-made version based on the PHWM pattern.

But otherwise, the Boardracer is pretty cool.

with my shoulders that’s what i am afraid of too, i dont want a jacket that fits in the shoulders, yet the hem is like a dress on me with sooooo much excess leather. i would most likely have to take it in a little bit, i like a lot of the 20s/30s styles, but don’t want them to be too slim in the shoulders where it’s not a proper fit.

 

[MrProper]

with my shoulders that’s what i am afraid of too, i dont want a jacket that fits in the shoulders, yet the hem is like a dress on me with sooooo much excess leather. i would most likely have to take it in a little bit, i like a lot of the 20s/30s styles, but don’t want them to be too slim in the shoulders where it’s not a proper fit.

Aero can taper the hem. It can't be done indefinitely, but a few inches are possible. I always had the maximum done.

 

[Pandemic]

As has been said above, figure out what style you like and get some good measurements- your body and a jacket that you think fits well. Get pics of you in said jacket. Send pics and ask detailed questions of the Aero team. They know their stuff and will see you right.

 

[ProteinNerd]

If your shoulders are too broad for the Board Racer, you can always get a Cafe Racer and add 0.5 inches to each side of the waist. That gives significantly more room through the shoulders and alleviates the severe drop to the waist. Again, talk to Thurston or Aero before doing something like this but it worked really well for me in the past.

 

[jacketjunkie]

I would be very careful with pattern adjustments if you are new into this and have no practical experience of what works on your body. Find an Aero stockist, try on different styles and go from there. I also second the notion that you shouldnt size down a wide style to slim down, this never works well imho.

 

[Allin216]

I too love the longer styles! My favorite jackets I have from Aero are both Long Half Belts. One is in brown Pinnacle HH and I've had it about a year, while the other just arrived last week and is made from black Vicenza HH. The Hercules is another long half belt design that has slightly fancier front panels. If you wanted a button front rather than zipper, the Teamster would fit very similarly, and keeps the action back (which helps with comfort and wearability). Keep in mind too that the side cinches give you a little bit of ability to pull in the fit at your waist (but not at the "hem"). These are all "1950's" styles, with more of a relaxed fit so you might want to consider a size down from standard as your starting point.

The Premier 1920's work coat offers a similar look to the Teamster but with slimmer fit, button cuffs, triple stitched seams, and a simpler back design with buttons rather than slider style side-cinches. Anything with "Premier" in the name will be a slim-fit pattern, more dramatically affecting the fit in terms of higher arm holes and slimmer arms than it describes shoulder-to-waist drop. In general most of Aero's styles are fairly boxy to start with.

One that comes to mind that isn't would be the Rockafella, which is super cool and is sort of a in-between or mid length for Aero. The Rockafella would probably more easily lend itself to an extra inch or two of length than adding dramatic taper to a style that has none.

One more thing too, just because I read your other thread about leather choices for the Barnstormer: if you're still thinking about a shearling lining or this otherwise being a cold-weather winter coat, I'd just caution that CXL can become very uncomfortable in the cold. Unrelated to the break-in of CXL or it being tumbled, this is largely just a function of the fats and waxes CXL is hot-stuffed with turning to solids and hardening in the cold.

 

[gjchristy]

i’ve been looking at getting a new aero for a little bit now and i’ve gone back and forth between a few different styles, Teamster, Barnstormer, Maxwell and Long half belt…etc. Im pretty sure i want a longer jacket/coat, i’m just not sure if any thin guys have experience with any of these.
I’ve heard it to make sure you get a pattern that fits your body shape so that it feels and looks good as well. of course a tweak here and there for a custom jacket is no problem, but to change an entire patter around to make it fit your body just doesn’t make sense.

I also know for a fact that i want CXL FQHH, the heavy weight, stiffness, almost armor like that will mold to your body and show amazing grain sounds exactly like what i want but i’ve heard that some patterns it really just doesn’t work well with and i want to make sure i get one that it does.

For reference i’m 5’11”/1.8M -150LBS/68KG with fairly wide shoulders, so to have someone with some taper, or be able to get it taken in, would be ideal, i really don’t want to end up putting it on for the first time and it looking like i’m wearing a trash bag lol.

I would love to hear anyone’s opinion and observations as most have had 10x more experience than me.

Thank you,
B

All the Aero's are different. I have seen 36's that fit 42. You would do best to have it custom made. I had a luftwaffe made by Sean at 5-star. made exactly like i requested but when wearing it was not what I expected. No lose but a $2,000 Aero that did not come out like you expected would be a deep frustration to me. If you want "Off the shelf" maybe think about Japanese models. The oriental fit may be better for you than those made for Fat Americans or board-like Europeans...... (Sorry if anyone feels insulted by my generalizations !!).

 

[gjchristy]

BTW - Here is the post - Sleeves are long at ~26" - probably fits you great! -https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...ide-size-40-–-customized.121394/#post-3230656

 

[MrProper]

Go with the 1930s Premier Halfbelt which I have a new one for sale but need to wait till I hit 20 posts before I can sell

Oh, that's why there are so many short posts. So that the number of posts increases