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  1. Fastuni

    What are you wearing today??

    HBK mentioned before that he wanted white cuffs, but Luxire made a mistake here.
  2. Fastuni

    1930's Joseph & Fiess Co. Pinstripe Tweed Suit!

    A lower rise and those slanted pockets were frequent on late-20's to mid-30's US suits.* Often flat front, too. The high waist with double pleats that we consider typical for "Golden era" fashion are more a mid-30's to mid-50's thing. As I would date Atterbury's suit around 1934 that would...
  3. Fastuni

    Some quotes on style and fashion

    No friend of drape and wide trousers that Mr. Astaire... ;) but his statments just fit with the current fashion of the late 50's anyway.
  4. Fastuni

    was tipping at restaurants common in the old days?

    A dream job. Don't you think these figures are exaggerated? I go ahead with statistics: all statistics to be found put the US averages (depending on state and restaurant type) at between 20k to 30k for waiters. Sounds much more realistic. Even when accepting the proposition that the statistics...
  5. Fastuni

    quick question

    Fading Fast, you are right - there certainly are such botchers and dabblers calling themselves "tailors" out there. They find their clients among those who do not know better. In Germany this is not the case, because there is still the legal "master compulsion" for tailors. There are...
  6. Fastuni

    1920s suits

    Interesting. I'd have to check German tailoring publications on this change. I think the straight seam became prevalent when broad, straight (instead of hollow) shoulders became the fashion in the second half of the 30's. Patterns were also simplified at that time - cleaner lines and less...
  7. Fastuni

    quick question

    Depends if we talk about vintage or modern clothes. Then there were lot's of mediocre small tailors who made worse work than clothing factories (in Europe at least, where RTW took longer to take over the market than in the US). These type of tailors are largely gone, though. A bespoke suit...
  8. Fastuni

    What are you wearing today??

    Hyena, you really nail the look of the 30-40's in your clothes and surroundings! :cool: You obviously pay a lot attention to details. But it would be perfect with a typical period hair-cut... don't you agree?
  9. Fastuni

    1920s suits

    Great plate showing the different angles of shoulder seams that existed at that time, from little to very steep slope. The first one is pretty much the same as on most of my 30's suits.
  10. Fastuni

    quick question

    It means a custom suit made by an artisanal tailor for a costumer to his specific measurements. The opposite would be Ready-to-wear/off-the-rack mass produced clothing found in stores. A middle form is semi-factory produced "made-to-measure". "Bespoke" because the costumer bespeaks (requests)...
  11. Fastuni

    1920s suits

    My certainly mid-30's American sport-suit has still rather sloped shoulder seams - not as extreme as in earlier years, but clearly not straight.
  12. Fastuni

    1920s suits

    Sloped shoulder seams were common in European tailoring until the late 30's. They gradually got straighter, but the use of sloped seams also depended on the individual tailor. My earliest jackets with straight shoulder seams are ca. 1936-38. All of my early 1930's jackets have very sloped seams.
  13. Fastuni

    1920s suits

    Silly me... I would put it at early 30's actually. Ca. 1928-1933. Very conservative for sure... certainly meant for a stroller. The lack of front darts was well into the 30's usual to accomodate larger bellies. The button stance, lapels and overall cut are for me not particularly evoking the...
  14. Fastuni

    What are you wearing today??

    The first tie is verrry nice - British I assume?
  15. Fastuni

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    Yes. You have to stitch a new center seam on the crotch at a lower height. The legs will shorten and the waist will be higher. You might then have to lengthen the legs to compensate.
  16. Fastuni

    What are you wearing today??

    Lot's of panaché going on! I like the wide waistband flannels. Are you going to have a lot of garments refitted? You did great on losing weight. (Reminds me that I should get into better shape... some of my lovelier suits are getting a bit tight in recent months.) Once my exam phase is over I...
  17. Fastuni

    Cummerbund with a Suit?

    Good question that would need a bit of research. I have the suspicion that the wearing of military sashes around the waist (instead over the shoulder) in Europe since the 17th century was derived from Moorish/Turkish inspirations. But I need to check on that. There certainly were repeated...
  18. Fastuni

    Cummerbund with a Suit?

    I think we need to differ between the cummerbund (from Persian kamarband = lit. waist-belt) as part of Middle Eastern and wider "oriental" local dress and the cummerbund as part of Western evening dress, which was derived from the former. The original cummerbund is a wide shawl worn on the waist...
  19. Fastuni

    Calling Fastuni: German civillian/Luftwaffe jacket?

    Metatron, I agree with your estimate: Late-40's to mid-50's German civilian jacket made by one of the manufactures who made Luftwaffe items during the war. The riri-Zipper almost certainly is post war. At least I have never seen bona-fide evidence of this square type during wartime. However it...
  20. Fastuni

    Cummerbund with a Suit?

    Well it is a combination of elements of "typical local" dress (red fez and cummerbund) with a Western suit. Such combinations of "traditional" and "modern" dress weren't unusual across the world. Compare images from N-Africa or the wider Arab world from that time. Within the context of these...

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