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  1. Patrick Hall

    REPRODUCTION: 1910s waist-seam suit

    Several years ago, I became fascinated with waist-seam suits, a strange marriage of a lounge suit and a body coat that was a popular young men's style for a hot minute in the 1910's. I had recently met the folks at Bykowski Tailor & Garb in Austin, and we worked together to come up with a M2M...
  2. Patrick Hall

    1940s donegal tweed suit

    Suit is SOLD, thanks for looking!
  3. Patrick Hall

    1930s/40s teal tweed sport coat

    Alas, I was apparently once a little slimmer than me as well. Or, at least, more willing to truck with tight fitting jackets.
  4. Patrick Hall

    1940s donegal tweed suit

    Up for sale is a beautiful tan donegal tweed two piece suit. The suit is cut from a heavy but loosely woven tan tweed with multi-colored knops, which both drapes and breathes well. Sufficient ventilation for three season wear. The suit features built up shoulders, nipped waist, a three-roll-two...
  5. Patrick Hall

    1930s/40s teal tweed sport coat

    I am selling this beautiful sport coat cut from a gorgeous teal tweed with a copper overcheck. Patch pockets, half-belted, bi-swing back, throat latch, everything you need to resemble a Fellows illustration! http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/252722503050
  7. Patrick Hall

    1930s "collegiate" sport suit, 35/36R

    Selling the jewel of my wardrobe, a 30's sport suit in chocolate gabardine with all imaginable bells and whistles. it's just too small for me to wear comfortably. My loss can be your gain! http://www.ebay.com/itm/252722423111
  8. Patrick Hall

    Collar and cuff steamer??

    fascinating piece. I know that old laundries, and perhaps some specialists still in the UK, used to have special machines that allowed them to perfectly shape and starch the hard cuffs and collars that were used before the soft-collar revolution of the 20s. I've never SEEN one of these...
  9. Patrick Hall

    Help with 30s style made to measure suit

    Looks great! Really love that fabric. Even though some coats in the 30's were cut short, I'd ask your tailor to amend any pattern he makes from that coat by adding some length to skirt, and shortening the sleeves. Short coat/low button stance isn't a great combo, and I suspect the bottom of that...
  10. Patrick Hall

    Help with 30s style made to measure suit

    Hacking pockets (slanted hip pockets) would be inappropriate on a suit with peak lapels, which indicate a more formal suit. I'd recommend jetted pockets sans flaps. Also, see if your tailor can carry the lapel roll right into the top button, so that the lapel turns over right where the top...
  11. Patrick Hall

    Post '30s belt-back jackets and suits

    I'd be very careful about this. Shoulder surgery is one of the most difficult and expensive alterations. I would just live with the natural shoulders, if I were you. If you must get the shoulder reshaped, make absolutely sure that whoever you approach to do the work is beyond competent...
  13. Patrick Hall

    Tuxedo Quality

    Frankly, there is absolutely no reason to pay retail prices for a modern tuxedo. There are zillions of vintage tuxes to be had that perpetually float around the Internet, better made and with classic styling. Their ubiquity means they can be picked up for peanuts. If you do decide to go vintage...
  14. Patrick Hall

    Formal Wear Primer

    Wonderful evening ensembles. Particularly impressive is the harmony between the bottom of your tailcoat and the points of your waistcoat. This is a grievously overlooked detail in most contemporary white tie, with many a marcella waistcoat protruding beneath the fronts of the tailcoat, and...
  15. Patrick Hall

    Shoe tree advice? Split or solid?

    Yeah, once those creases are in the leather, I'm not sure there is a way to fix them. But as goes the conventional refrain on the Lounge, you should definitely soak them in Cadillac's leather conditioner. It will restore an amazing amount of life to the leather.
  16. Patrick Hall

    Shoe tree advice? Split or solid?

    The effectiveness of shoe trees in maintaining the form of the shoe will vary greatly, depending on how well the shape of the tree corresponds to the last that was used to make the shoe. This is why high end makers craft trees to go with their shoes. In terms of after-market shoe trees, I think...
  17. Patrick Hall

    Collar question

    Looks to me like a standard two piece collar with a higher band-height and some lining or fusing thrown in to stiffen it up for open-necked wear. These shirts are a dime-a-dozen at the thrifts. Pretty sure this thread belongs in general attire, also.
  19. Patrick Hall

    Show off the sports coats.

    Dating a coat would be hard to do just based on the look of a tweed, most of the time. Modern donegals still look like donegals, same with the Harris variety. The exception to this are tweeds that are all but extinct, but that were very common through the 40's. Fancy patterns in the weave, like...
  20. Patrick Hall

    What are you wearing today??

    Don't much like changing clothes between the afternoon and evening, but today mandated it - had a fundraiser my wife helped organize to attend, and a Palm Beach suit wasn't going to make friends. Second suit is a new-to-me favorite - British as you can get - drape, extended but soft shoulders...
  21. Patrick Hall

    New to this - Looking for advice

    You are right - my descriptor wasn't specific enough: I think they do make their garments by hand, but in an assembly line fashion, as opposed to having a single crafstman make a complete garment. I'd guess that's how Kiton, Brioni and all the rest of the upper tier R2W makers do it. You're...
  22. Patrick Hall

    New to this - Looking for advice

    Dirk, What's your opinion on those RTW firms who declare their fully canvassed, not-hand-made coats to be equivalent in quality to the hand-made coats available from bespoke craftsmen? I'm thinking here about houses like Kiton, Oxxford, Brioni, etc. Their retail prices are on par with a...
  23. Patrick Hall

    New to this - Looking for advice

    Full retail prices are prohibitive, but ebay levels the field a bit. You can get coats from the best RTW firms with full canvassing, for a fraction of retail, though still not inexpensively, exactly.

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