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Custom Suit help
Yeah golden era lapels were over 4 inches (talking about notch lapels now, for peaks there are different standards). Unless your trousers will be over 20 inches at the hem, 3.75 inches should be fine. That's the wide side of moderate, and will pair with most ties, which are between 3 and 4 inches.- Patrick Hall
- Post #16
- Forum: Suits
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Custom Suit help
no reason you have to have a wide lapel, but keep in mind that all stylistic elements will be speaking to each other - so if you are going for a wide trouser, it would look strange paired with a really skinny lapel. I'd also consider going with three patch pockets - it will harmonize with belt...- Patrick Hall
- Post #4
- Forum: Suits
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The Vintage Tailoring Thread
It's hard for me to tell from that picture, because you have imposed the triangle showing how you would ask for the collar to be cut away on top of the image. But from what I can see, I don't think they look too egregiously of their era. I think an easier, less risky solution might be to blunt...- Patrick Hall
- Post #565
- Forum: Suits
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The Vintage Tailoring Thread
I had a similar operation done on a bespoke coat I received where the gorge was too high, and the peak of the peak lapel where it met the collar piece was over my collar bone and thus not lying flat on the coat front. I had the tailor convert the lapel to a "lazy" peak, which involved cutting...- Patrick Hall
- Post #562
- Forum: Suits
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The chase for a suit; should I even bother?
that wool is pretty hardy. I wouldn't worry about the durability of the fabric. That's a quality piece, for sure. Jeff is a good seller, too. I've bought several suits from him in the past. The patch pockets and the fleck in the weave make this a very unique piece. Sport coats without...- Patrick Hall
- Post #13
- Forum: Suits
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The chase for a suit; should I even bother?
Very slim vintage suits are rare, admittedly, but they also tend to go for lower prices, because there is less demand for them, and they tend to be in better shape, because often the original purchasers, er, outgrew them. So, be patient, keep an eye out, and spring for anything listed as a...- Patrick Hall
- Post #2
- Forum: Suits
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Waist covering with 1930's double breasted black tie?
I have a number of these vintage three piece double breasted suits. I have no doubt that the practice was common with dinner suits as well during the early days of black tie. I really love having a waistcoat with a double breasted coat, because not all double breasted coats look good buttoned...- Patrick Hall
- Post #13
- Forum: Suits
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Show us your suits
Beautiful donegal tweed, Michael. Hard to say on the age, especially without seeing the inside of the coat, the labels/union label and the closure method on the trousers. Based on width of the trouser hems, button point, lapel shape, shoulder expression, and coat length, I'd guess 1940s. I used...- Patrick Hall
- Post #5,612
- Forum: Suits
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FS: Mid-century Brooks Brothers three piece tweed sack suit
Suit is SOLD.- Patrick Hall
- Post #2
- Forum: Classifieds
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Show off the sports coats.
Beautiful coat - Ivy League detailing - no darts on the chest, natural shoulder, the hooked vent, and the 3-2 button stance. I'd say late 50's-early 60's.- Patrick Hall
- Post #1,489
- Forum: Suits
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Show us your British suits
I think 1930s is a safe bet. Is there no breast pocket? How peculiar.- Patrick Hall
- Post #1,002
- Forum: Suits
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FS: Mid-century Brooks Brothers three piece tweed sack suit
Up for sale is a beautiful Brooks Brothers three piece sack suit, cut from a gray herringbone tweed with a blue pinstripe. This piece has all the classic details of mid-century American tailoring: a natural shoulder, three-roll-two button stance, dartless front, single vented back, flapped patch...- Patrick Hall
- Thread
- Replies: 1
- Forum: Classifieds
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Just won this suit on Ebay
That's a steal for the price. The fact that is was made in Shanghai complicates things somewhat, because old construction practices and styles might have been in use longer than in the west. But, that said, this suit looks like it's from the 1930's to me. The self-stripe of the fabric is...- Patrick Hall
- Post #13
- Forum: Suits
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The Thread to Display Your 1930s Suits
I concur with Mathematicus. I'd guess pre-war 1940's. Beautiful suit!- Patrick Hall
- Post #471
- Forum: Suits
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Experiences with Walker Slater?
I actually popped into one of their shops in Covent Garden when I was in London last week. I was favorably impressed by their wares. The tweeds are great - really colorful interesting patterns. They had some pretty, slubby linen-silk blends on offer as well, a sort of summer tweed. Most of their...- Patrick Hall
- Post #2
- Forum: Suits
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Show off the sports coats.
Love that twill camelhair. Early 40's is a good bet. Great find!- Patrick Hall
- Post #1,480
- Forum: Suits
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All us fat guys...
Jackie Gleason is another good inspiration for big guys looking to wear tailored clothes well. Willyto is right - vintage pieces in big sizes go for a king's ransom. Your best bet will be a local tailor. Local bespoke options tend to cost a fraction of what the international firms cost.- Patrick Hall
- Post #4
- Forum: Suits
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Delon's strange DB in 1970 gangster flick "Borsalino"
I've never heard of or seen examples of this being done intentionally. My guess? They were using vintage pieces and this suit lost a button at some point during its life. Fixing it would have meant replacing all the buttons on the coat front, and so they didn't.- Patrick Hall
- Post #2
- Forum: Suits
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Richman Brothers suit jacket
Also, bold-look coats shift the button point lower, to create that long lapel line that was very much in vogue. So you end up with a lot more coat in the top half than the bottom, in terms of silhouette.- Patrick Hall
- Post #8
- Forum: Suits
