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  1. Patrick Hall

    Show us your British suits

    That suit's a beauty Nik. Were the trousers longer, I'd be taking it off your hands in a second.
  2. Patrick Hall

    Show us your British suits

    I believe that's what they call a gunclub check? A real beauty. Great find Fastuni!
  3. Patrick Hall

    Males, do you part/manage your hair everyday?

    I use Layrite's water soluble matte finish pomade when damp. Do a simple side part. The front falls down in my face a little after a couple hours. I also have my barber edge in my part with his razor every three weeks, when I get the fade and taper refreshed.
  4. Patrick Hall

    Tweed Suit Advice

    You might also keep an eye on Cordings (http://www.cordings.co.uk/). The prices are cheaper than bespoke, but still not dirt cheap. But they have a range of different tweed fabrics, and a variety of different makeups. In terms of vintage, keep an eye on ebay, and check sellers on Etsy. I know...
  5. Patrick Hall

    New to this - Looking for advice

    If you are starting to build a wardrobe, I'd recommend you steer clear of niche fabrics like linen. These days there are countless worsted wools in lighter fabric weights. You'll find that such worsteds are not held in high regard here, because they usually don't drape or breathe or take a...
  7. Patrick Hall

    This suit's material?

    Glenchecks in the conservative scale of Grant's suit are hard to come by these days. I have a three piece 1940's suit in a similar worsted fabric that I absolutely love. But I haven't seen any modern fabrics that compare. You'd have to dig through swatches at a local tailor to see if someone...
  8. Patrick Hall

    Running amuck w/ Palm Beach Linen!

    in future you should consider laundering Palm Beach garments with oxygen bleach. It's gentle on fabrics, and has generated incredible results for me. In fact, the Palm Beach suit I am wearing in my avatar came to me totally soiled, stained, and unwearable. A six hour soak in oxygen bleach...
  9. Patrick Hall

    How you ever worn certain clothes to give others "the finger?"

    Spambots sure are getting sophisticated. This one almost sounds sentient.
  10. Patrick Hall

    Help Dating DB 3 pc Suit Please

    I'd wager late 30's - early 40's. The double-button fastening on the front of the trouser and the wide waistband suggests an earlier date to me, but that jacket could have been made at any point before button stances started to droop post-war. Given how much inlay there is in the side seam of...
  11. Patrick Hall

    How Does One Comb Their Hair Like This?

    Also, how you comb matters. To create a bit of volume, use the technique folks use for pomps - repeatedly comb the first quarter inch of your hair up in front, while pushing the whole volume of your hair forward into the comb. It'll create that round shape in the ads. I have to do this because...
  13. Patrick Hall

    Sprezzatura vs trying too hard.

    This has long been a school of thought about tasteful dressing. Cary Grant was indeed famous for his restraint. Currently Patrick Grant (no relation) of Norton and Sons is the poster boy for a contemporary commitment to impeccably fitted minimalism. I think this sentiment goes as far back as...
  14. Patrick Hall

    FS: Aero CC41 repro trousers size 30 - ginger tweed and navy corduroy

    Hey Nik, really digging those straw cords. Think there is any chance of milking 32 inches out of the inseam?
  15. Patrick Hall

    Sprezzatura vs trying too hard.

    Actually, I think this is the first step towards achieving it. Remember, the original context for the concept is the art of etiquette. The point wasn't to exert no effort, but to persuasively appear as though you weren't. Painstaking practice was required, first to learn whatever art you were...
  16. Patrick Hall

    Sprezzatura vs trying too hard.

    To take things the other direction from the affected tie knots, pocket square fluffs, etc, here is a look that I think could benefit from a little less precision, along with a less dramatic collar cutaway. To me this ensemble telegraphs far too much forethought and painstaking effort in color...
  17. Patrick Hall

    Sprezzatura vs trying too hard.

    I tend to like those old pictures/catalogue illustrations of the off-the-shoe look. In the photo above, something doesn't quite click. The shoes and balmoral boots of late teens-early 20's were generally pretty sleek, though I know I've seen some clunkers from that period that could've passed...
  19. Patrick Hall

    Sprezzatura vs trying too hard.

    You are probably talking about "RRL", their heavily vintage inspired line of ranch and tailored clothes. If any R2W line was to promote external brace buttons, RRL would be the most likely suspect, without question. Their short-lived Rugby line also had some trousers with vintage details, like...
  20. Patrick Hall

    Sprezzatura vs trying too hard.

    Yes, he sews the buttons on the inside of the waistband, without carrying the threading through to the exterior. That would be an unforgivable alterations mishap! Belts are the reigning (if fatally flawed) suspension kings in the US, so if I buy a non-vintage pair of trousers, I almost always...
  21. Patrick Hall

    Sprezzatura vs trying too hard.

    Thanks for explaining. It hadn't occurred to me that the placement of the brace buttons determines how symmetrically the trousers drape, but it makes perfect sense. I often have to have brace buttons sewn into trouser waistbands by my alterations person. One more thing to start habitually...
  22. Patrick Hall

    Sprezzatura vs trying too hard.

    Would LOVE to know how this man got a carabiner stuck in his collar. Also, he spent hours fluffing that pocket square.
  23. Patrick Hall

    Sprezzatura vs trying too hard.

    Interesting, what's off about the brace button positions? Should they be further to the sides? There's a lot about this man's taste that I like - the knit tie, the checked jacket fabric, the healthy trouser rise, the restraint demonstrated in the bit of white linen peaking out of the pocket...

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