When I began this hat making journey I would daydream of the day I could afford an ASM or such to sew the sweats. But now that I am established and can afford to buy one.....I am content to continue to hand sew them. It takes me about an hour, all in, and I enjoy the process. The time saved...
All my blocks are in centimetres. I always block one size up. So for a size 58cm head I block on a 59cm block. Check out WalshDesigns3D on ETSY for the best price on a block. It is very hard to block a felt with the sweat band in place. The felt needs to be well steamed in order to...
Go to Amazon and buy a Flex Curve, 36" (if your head is smaller than 7 1/4" you can get away with a 24". Get someone to wrap the Flex Curve around your head making sure to get a tight fit to the head (No gaps!). Gently slip it off your head and voila, you have your head shape. This...
Do you know the shape of your head? You are not really stretching the hat if it is the right size for you just the wrong shape. If you know the shape you can cut yourself a band block out of 1" plank or plywood. Then when not wearing it slip in the band block and it will help conform the...
As a general rule Petersham (scalloped edge) is a millinery item suitable only for women's hats. Woven edge grosgrain is used on men's hats. Be careful when purchasing ribbon as both types are referred to as grosgrain.
Yes, I prefer both my vintage wood blocks & flanges but have used him to fill in on some sizes and shapes. Ones that I don't get calls for that often and it is hard to justify the expense but at Allan's prices it makes it doable. He keeps honing his quality. His latest is an acetone bath...
I am in the middle of making a funky modern Bowler for a lady in a dark purple felt. I don't have the right colour ribbon for the trim.......so I dyed some ivory ribbon to get the right colour and the match.
It won't look perfect but stitch it yourself. The holes are already there, use a poly thread and just do a simple cross stitch. It will at least hold it together and stop it from getting worse.
I have a female client that has purchased a number of hats from me. She is very well dressed, classic Audrey Hepburn vibe. She tells me she often gets comments from other women on her great hats and a question on "where do you get them?". She replies..."I know a guy!". They say ..."No...
I have been using the largest enameled canning pot I could find. It is not large enough to give the felt room to stretch out. Hence I am having difficulty getting an even dye job. I am looking to buy a stainless laundry tub 20" x 18" and have the drain welded shut with a stainless plate...
I use a good quality Acid dye such as Ciba or Jacquard. An important step in the dye process is 'setting' the dye into the fabric. I would feel terrible if I sold one of my dyed hats and had the customer end up with a blue, black or brown face! I have begun to experiment using natural...
I spent a few years learning hatting by working on beater westerns that I picked up cheap on the Bay. I would first wash them using Orvis Paste, a low PH soap/cleanser. Then if that didn't work well I would up the ante to the naptha bath. It was a real crap shoot. Black hats were the...
My client has a 'fear'....perhaps exaggerated but I have to come up with something that will fully allay her fears so she can relax, wear the hat and enjoy it rather than fearing its sudden loss. Sometimes I am called upon to be more than a hat maker......a hat counsellor perhaps?
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