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  1. Bird's One View

    Just how "sacky" would a sack suit have been?

    The most obvious sign that the suit was originally bigger is the horizontal distance between the pockets and the buttons. Suppressing the waist further will only exaggerate this. I would probably leave it alone.
  2. Bird's One View

    Hat comparison Help

    I like the Nostalgia, but go with whatever looks best on you.
  3. Bird's One View

    Hat Matching Suit?

    Matching is overrated.
  4. Bird's One View

    Belting a back

    Unless you are very thin and the trouser legs are very generously cut, you will not get a piece of cloth from the trouser hem long enough to construct a half belt.
  5. Bird's One View

    How large can I go? (Suit Sizes pre-tailor)

    Is your 40" chest measurement your actual chest measurement, or the measurement of a jacket you already have? If your chest actually is 40" you will not be comfrortable in a jacket with a 40" (measured) chest. All jackets measure larger than their tagged size. The size is, in theory, the...
  6. Bird's One View

    Coat arm holes, how high is high?

    This may have been done but I am not aware of it. It might help to think about the amount of ease added to the measure around your arm at the shoulder. Whether the armhole is "high" or "low" is an arbitrary distinction made at some point along a continuum of possibilities. It's like...
  7. Bird's One View

    Coat arm holes, how high is high?

    The idea is just to get it as small as you can comfortably wear. This has more to do with the bulk of your upper arm than with a ratio to some other measurement. I would just ask that the next one be made with armholes higher than the last one. I also might suggest that I wish to dance, fire...
  8. Bird's One View

    Need help with pants

    J Press trousers are pretty high waisted. Any real tailor (provided there is one in your city) should be able to make 40s style trousers. You shouldn't have to provide a pattern. It might help to have photos or sketches though. I don't have anything from either of them, but have a look at...
  9. Bird's One View

    Need advice on overall appearance in suit

    I like that combination better than the first.
  10. Bird's One View

    Need advice on overall appearance in suit

    There are different opinions about proper shirt sleeve lengths and many men do wear longer sleeves as Widebrim suggests. I can't stand wearing sleeves (except on overcoats) that cover any of my hand, hence my earlier suggestion. There is an interesting thread at styleforum on this topic.
  11. Bird's One View

    Need advice on overall appearance in suit

    If you want to show shirt cuff, shorten the coat sleeves a touch. If not ... don't. The trousers may be a little long, or perhaps they have just slipped down a bit. I would prefer a darker tie and / or a plain white pocket square. No need for the hat to match anything and no need to match...
  12. Bird's One View

    What is a good alternative for a tie? Help required.

    I like jacket without tie much better than tie without jacket.
  13. Bird's One View

    Just got my first hat in..

    The gaps at the sides imply that your head is a longer oval than the hat was blocked. This is true for me as well. I have put foam at the front and back, rather than filling the gaps at the sides, to encourage the hat to conform to my head.
  14. Bird's One View

    Federation Deluxe IV Size

    My head is a little under 60 cm (but also long oval), and my size 60 Fed IV Dlx is still a touch loose after about 6 months of regular wear. I took the foam out of the front after a few weeks but left some in the back. I'm tempted to order a 59 to try, but I'm pretty sure it would be too small...
  15. Bird's One View

    Capped-toe brown shoes - thois should be easy...

    Alden, Allen Edmonds, or Brooks Brothers.
  16. Bird's One View

    Show us your seersucker.

    Glad to hear it, since I have worn that out in public.
  17. Bird's One View

    Show us your seersucker.

    This is more "what not to wear with seersucker":
  18. Bird's One View

    Stetson "Nostalgia"? (now with pics)

    The difference is exaggerated by the Fed's narrower ribbon; but yes, it is slightly straighter than the Nostalgia.
  19. Bird's One View

    What era does this suit convey to the forum?

    I've read that putting buttonholes in both lapels of a DB coat is still common in English tailoring. I don't think of it as a period-specific detail. I like it but it's not that important to me.
  20. Bird's One View

    So which era of clothing do you like best?

    Voted 20s, would have voted teens. Thirties and later stuff (whether vintage or "inspired by") is easier to wear casually today though. I saw THE FOG OF WAR not long ago, and Woodrow Wilson's clothes put JFK's to shame.

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