Thedi vs equivalent Japanese makers?

[philli]

I own 4 Thedi jackets, 3 of which were made to measure. They are all perfect, in the sense that nothing could be done (or undone) to make them better. Up to now, that means I have total trust when I order from Theodoros. Which is far from the case when buying online a japanese jacket. I had a lot of misfortunes either because the sizes were off or the patterns didn't match my body type. Sometimes the figures seemed to be correct, but in the flesh, the jackets didn't fit, being too tight or too short. I had some frustrating misses with Freewheelers and Rainbow country, some happy guesses with RMC and Toys McCoy, and through experience, I learned that I had to take size 40 in Sugar Cane and Y2. If I could have tried the jackets on before buying, it would have saved a lot of time and money,

That is honestly the struggle, I lack the patience to wait for the opportunity to try something in person and I’m also limited if I only try stuff within my vicinity. Most of the stuff I’m interested in was through doom scrolling on IG or other platforms.

I went to Japan twice and that was before I was committed to buying leather jackets/boots. But I am definitely trying some stuff on when I go there again.

Re your experience with Thedi, the fact that you have 4 of them is pretty telling in itself. The model I ordered is the same one I attached photos of but with silver zips since that’s what they stock over there at wardrobe 19. I really wanted the one with brass zips but I would’ve had to pay slightly more and wait much longer. So we’ll see how it goes….how the leather looks in photos/videos and the pattern is stunning though

 

[philli]

Aero’s jerky horsehide or Vicenza would fit the bill. Vicenza is ‘leaner’ and smarter, but jerky is marginally easier to wear. It’s a teacore (as is Vicenza Blackened Brown). I may get a Shinki jacket (I might buy one from the Flat Head store in Harajuku, as I tried a single rider on there. The guys were as excited at the Vicenza Cafe Racer that I had on as the possibility of making a sale), but I think I’d need to be certain on sizing...

I had my eyes on a Vincenza blackened brown D pocket from aero as well. If the opportunity arises and I can try one in person I definitely would. But I’m not aware of any stockists for aero here in NYC

 

[philli]

Where are you based? It would certainly help if you could find a retailer stocking Thedi to get a feel for size and fit.

I can say only good things about Thedi. His jackets are unique in the way he tweaks old styles into something completely new. Also, the way he treats the leather (especially his signature washed buffalo) makes them special.
All this considered, I’d always want a Thedi in my stable but probably not as an only-jacket.

I find his patterns pretty easy wearing, both off-the rack and the one where he measured me up in person in Thessaloniki.
Where it may become tricky is with his size recommendations based on your numbers. Theodoros is a man that likes his leather TIGHT. I’d always err on the plus side when it comes to him offering sizing advice. But again, the jacket I got after him sizing me up fits perfectly to this day.

You can read a ton elsewhere on RMC, Shinki, the lot. Many great options to choose from. Some feel, all things Japanese are either overrated, overpriced or both, but personally I love my occasional dose of them.

I am based in NYC. Not sure if there are any retailers stocking Thedi. And yeah the photos of Theo wearing his jackets do look super tight, I opted for an off the rack one which looks like a true US medium on Kenan who happens to have similar proportions to me.

But yeah, I think I’ll make the call if I want to keep both jackets when my Thedi arrives. The black bruciato horsehide seems versatile enough if I want to go jacket-monogamous but if anything I would probably just replace the double helix instead.

If I were a repro nut I think going Japanese would be the right move as they are pretty good at making 1 to 1s or very close at least. As for my case I just happen to like some older patterns and want one that is unique.

 

[El Marro]

Honestly with the wait time (and usually higher price) I’m not sure I want to do another custom either, considering i have pretty standard proportions

Many of us here have come to this realization over time. Unless you are a really short weightlifter or super tall and skinny it seems like off the rack is probably the way to go. And the ability to have the jacket in a matter of days rather than months (or years) is even better.

 

[TartuWolf]

Here it is, I honestly still do like how it looks on me. I might keep it or I might get rid of it and get something in shinki. One things for sure though, I could have added another inch to the sleeves….

Interesting how many folks coming to TFL are fixated on Shinki. Fjorde (or whatever his name was) has has great success with hyping it up I guess.
That jacket looks anything but tight on you from that shot, at least in the shoulders. But I guess bottoned up it's tighter.

 

[philli]

Interesting how many folks coming to TFL are fixated on Shinki. Fjorde (or whatever his name was) has has great success with hyping it up I guess.
That jacket looks anything but tight on you from that shot, at least in the shoulders. But I guess bottoned up it's tighter.

It’s probably the arm hole positioning to be honest cause it feels restrictive as hell when driving, even unbuttoned.

And yes Fjorde definitely did a great job hyping that up, and double helix too but I will say the horsehide from Nitta is pretty nice. And the semi aniline finish produces a pretty nice luster/sheen that is apparent to people who aren’t into leather either. I’ll have to feel out the shinki in person to see if it fits my needs.

Aside from that though, what Fjorde says is 90% blanket statements about the leather and marketing jargon. But I think that is true for almost all content creators in the space, with the exception of almostvintagestyle and a few others.

 

[cbez]

Here it is, I honestly still do like how it looks on me. I might keep it or I might get rid of it and get something in shinki. One things for sure though, I could have added another inch to the sleeves….

Looks like a perfect fit to me. Some jackets are destined to be tshirt jackets.

That's also my ideal sleeve length because it doesn't touch my palm or interfere with what I'm doing with my hands. Will ride up when driving but not too bad.

 

[Carlos840]

I have handled a few Thedis and i own one and i have to say that even though i really respect the makers, the style is not for me.
They all have a "costume departement" vibe to me, not in a cheap way, in a "high quality theatre prop" way.
The leather choice and finishing, the thick thread, the pattern/style cues, to me it all adds up to that.

They make me think of the kinda stuff Johnny Depp would wear...

I have never felt that way with the Japanese jackets i have owned/handled.

 

[cbez]

I also get a costume vibe from a lot of thedi. Some are more subdued and cool though.

 

[Tom71]

Many of us here have come to this realization over time. Unless you are a really short weightlifter or super tall and skinny it seems like off the rack is probably the way to go. And the ability to have the jacket in a matter of days rather than months (or years) is even better.

This is my impression as well. If you’re more or less of a standard size, you’re good with OTR.

 

[Tom71]

Here it is, I honestly still do like how it looks on me. I might keep it or I might get rid of it and get something in shinki. One things for sure though, I could have added another inch to the sleeves….

Wow, this looks great!

Only you can know how it feels, and a lot of jackets look great in pictures BECAUSE they are one size too small (movies make a habit out of sizing clothing one size down for “hero shots”, i.e. For closeups without a lot of movement involved).
But man, that looks awesome.

 

[philli]

Wow, this looks great!

Only you can know how it feels, and a lot of jackets look great in pictures BECAUSE they are one size too small (movies make a habit out of sizing clothing one size down for “hero shots”, i.e. For closeups without a lot of movement involved).
But man, that looks awesome.

Looks wise, it’s great. I’ve received many compliments on it. But with day to day tasks and driving, the mobility it offers is terrible haha. Under arm gussets probably would’ve helped with this.
I went down the rabbit hole of searching whether or not horsehide will stretch over time and seems like the consensus is that it won’t “stretch” but it’ll just be less stiff.

 

[El Marro]

Interesting how many folks coming to TFL are fixated on Shinki. Fjorde (or whatever his name was) has has great success with hyping it up I guess.

Shinki definitely seems to be the hot leather around here again these days. Now I am a big fan of Shinki, but even more so I’m a fan of nailing the fit first. There is a reason that Vanson is a perennial favorite around here, despite the fact that their leather offerings tend to be rather boring, and that reason is that their jackets just fit great and feel good when worn.
Nothing wrong with wanting a shinki jacket, just make sure you get one that fits well. Or else you will be stuck with something pretty to look at that you don’t particularly like to wear.

 

[philli]

I’ll be sure to update this thread once my thedi arrives. Thanks for all the input everybody

 

[scurvyfreedman]

My experience with Thurston was the exact opposite. I tried one on. Ordered the size with the shoulders and chest I wanted and had the arms/body shortened. Maybe, I'm that short weightlifter body, but without the muscles. Short baseball player here. Anyway, the fit is great. Then, COVID happened and I gained 10 pounds that I never lost back, so it's an open jacket only. Gets a ton of compliments. Looks amazing. Buffalo is great. Sewing is top notch. I got true brown (no red tones), forgot the name of the color, but I love it.

 

[philli]

In the meantime though, putting up my double helix jacket for sale
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...-cowboy-horsehide-jacket-type-1-style.121113/

honestly still really love this jacket. Might get another one with the proper fit in the future. Its like 95% of the way there in terms of fit tbh

 

[ton312]

^ NO. Please for the love of God ignore this post. This is pure nonsense... Catastrophe in the making.

 

[Zoro]

And the result would look great, you would just need to ignore the folds and the stitching to the shoulders piece that won't let them go away properly!

 

[Biff42]

^ NO. Please for the love of God ignore this post. This is pure nonsense... Catastrophe in the making.

Seconded. I did this to a denim type 1 and while fine for denim (for a rugged look) do not do it to leather. It'll ruin the jacket.

 

[ABCD]

I thought the sleeve length fits you fine tbh. Have you thought about undoing the top rows of rectangular stitchings where the pleated folds are (circled in red below) for more room and better movement? That’s what they are for.

View attachment 756850

Edit: Google
View attachment 756854

Thank you captain AI for this piece of terrible advice lol.