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Spring-loaded Crown zipper thread

jchance

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Starting a thread on spring-loaded Crown zippers and its various different types, given our collective interest in this premium-grade zipper. It’s a concentrated space to post your jackets with spring-loaded Crown zippers or discuss anything Crown-related.

Crown was a division of the Clarks O.N.T / J&P Coats "family". Originally an independent company—the Crown Fastener Division of the Spool Cotton Company—Clarks Coats bought them out in around 1936. Originally located in Warren, PA, they moved production to Oriskany Falls, NY in 1946. So both of those C&C and Crown zips were produced on the same machines in the same plant. Strangely, Coats/Clark were producing nearly identical zips under their own name as well as their Crown zipper subsidiary.

Crown made the switch from the "chevron" teeth (hen’s teeth) found on the left zipper to the "two way" symmetrical teeth on the right zipper in about 1943-44 on wartime applications. The symmetrical tooth design allowed for smoother action in both directions, and allowed the zip to go around the curve of the turret. The design on the right was released to civilian applications after WWII. So a jacket with the two-way tooth design on the right would be 1945-1946 or later.
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The spring-locking slider was superseded around 1952 by an interlocking, or automatic-lock, slider, shown below. No more usage of spring thereafter.
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From mid-1930s to mid-1960s, Crown die-cast their teeth directly onto the zipper tape, unlike other manufacturers, like Talon, which clamped the teeth onto the tape. On one hand, it makes for a more durable product and a smoother slide, on the other, it makes replacement necessary if any one tooth goes bad. According to ads, the die casting made the production of larger gauge zippers easier.

Crown also innovated the use of multiple sliders on the same zipper tape, so that gaps could be made wherever needed. Then, as now, this was most common on sleeping bags and on tent panels. Period ads say as many as 10 sliders were used on a single zipper.

C-style Top Stops were developed in the mid-30s by Talon Inc. They were continued to be used until it was changed to the simplified style in mid-40s. And other US zip manufacturers in same era, including Crown, also used same style or similar top stops.
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MASH’s repro Crown zippers are available for order from Japan. Link
NOS 1st model
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Zip pull strap
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Packaging instruction. Note that zipper tape can be dyed to different colors.
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jchance

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1st model, Chevron teeth, including M39-42.
2nd model, 2-way symmetrical teeth, including M46-51.
2nd model, 2-way symmetrical teeth, M55 and later (including M57-M61), are no longer spring-loaded.

1st model, M39, late 1930s-early 1940s, #5
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1st model, M40, early 1940s, #5
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1st model, M41, 1941-42, #5
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1st model, M42, 1942-45, #5 (MASH incorrectly calls this 2nd model)
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2nd model, M46, c.1946, #10
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2nd model, M48, 1948-52, #10
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2nd model, M51, 1949-52, #10, circular stopper
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M55, 1955-60, #5, not spring-loaded, quarter-circle stopper
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M57, 1957-1958, #10, not spring-loaded
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M58, 1958, #10, not spring-loaded
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jchance

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M61, 1962, #10, not spring-loaded, circular stopper
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1st model, 7.5”, nonseparating. Note the ball stopper.
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2nd model, #9
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2nd model, main zip, 40s Seattle Woolen Co. straight-zip CHP
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2nd model, #6, main zip on c.1950s Ralph Edwards suede
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2nd model, main zip on Star Glove straight-zip. The tell-tale sign of an unlabeled Star Glove is the usage of Crown zipper(s).
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2nd model, #5, on c.1940s Star Glove sleeve
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2nd model, main zip on 1950s Kit Karson
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photo2u

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I have removed some crown zippers from aircraft separating windows also. Some of the images shown here are from repros. Originals were finish a little different. There were many more models produced. One very simple key to appreciate the age of crowns lay on the zipper end stops. The older designed had nice design to them. Sadly, the metal used in some of the military zippers did deteriorate badly and are very difficult to save. However, I have done it for some pieces when I volunteer at the local flight museums in Chino, California.
 
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photo2u

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The #5 older spring-loaded chevron zippers from crown are not very strong at all. Stu at LW share with me that he does not think they are appropriate for sleeves. However, we did agree with the #5 main zip gold newer design for one of my Trojan he first produced back in the day. Lastly, there is an image of a salesman sample booklet that contained many of the day-to-day production zippers for potential customers to view.
 
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jchance

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zipper slider, same front and back for all of spring-loaded Crown zippers. What’s special about these are the spring, which forces the zipper pull to lay down flat. It’s perfect for using in sleeves to not have hanging zipper pull because the pull springs back and flatten alongside the leather.

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#5
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#12
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photo2u

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Here is an image of the strongest designed crown single and double sided. No spring. Courtesy of Stu eBay's sales. This is a #12; however, it was mainly reproduced in #10, which looks the same but is smaller than the #12. The #12 was used in several applications in the military. I also have used them in Biminis in sailboats back in the day. Some companies produce such zippers for many heavier applications. The industry now uses the talon big teeth design for such products. It also carries on to most current applications.


stu #12.jpg

double sided no spring..jpg



BIG TEETH DESIGNED. INVENTED BY TALON FOR SPECIAL AVIATION AND MILITARY GARMENTS. CURRENTLY, THE MOST COPY DESIGNED USE IN GARMENTS AND INDUSTRIAL APPLICATIONS. Durable used it for Brando's wild one jacket.
big teeth.jpg
 
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jchance

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The number (like #5, #9, #10) refers to the width of the zipper teeth in millimeters when closed. A #5 zipper, for example, has teeth that are approximately 5mm wide. The higher the number, the stronger the zipper. Main zipper for a thick leather jacket should be #10, if you have a choice in the matter. Sleeves are ok with #5 zippers. I have a 1940s Kit Karson leather jacket that has very thin leather, and the main zipper of Conmar #5 is broken, unsurprisingly. I plan to replace it with a #10 Crown.

Not Crown, but showing different teeth sizes
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#12 Crown next to #10 Conmar for slider and teeth size comparison
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jchance

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Eastman repro ad of 1st model, M40
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Buzz Rickson repro, 1st model
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The Few repro, 1st model
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Goodwear repro, 1st model, M41, main zip
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from Goodwear, prob the availability of its offering.
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LW repro, 2nd model, #9, main zip
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2nd model, main zip, LW repro, seen on several of its jackets.
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LW
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jchance

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2nd model, main zip on 40s wool
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2nd model, main zip on Wood Field by Drybak flannel
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main zip on King-Size flannel
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2nd model, main zip on early 1940s Shanhouse
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main zip on 1950s Bantamac
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jchance

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2nd type, main zip on Alaska Sleeping Bag Co. down jacket
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2nd model, main zip on FFA corduroy jacket
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2nd model, main zip on Seattle Quilt Mfg. Co. down jacket
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2nd model, main zip on rayon jacket
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jchance

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1st model, main zip on leather vest
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2nd model, main zip on 40s leather
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2nd model, main zip on 40s leather
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2nd model, main zip on Uncle Sam’s fringe leather
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2nd model, main zip on 50s fringe leather
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2nd model, main zip on Hercules half-belt
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2nd model, main zip on Hercules by Rough Wear
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main zip on Excelled
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jchance

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2nd model, main zip in 50s wool Lambliner
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2nd model, main zip on 40s denim
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2nd model, main zip on 50s Thermo-Jac by Grove
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2nd model, main zip on 50s Thermo-Jac by Grove
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jchance

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2nd model, main zip on 40s wool Buck Skein
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2nd model, main zip on wool Pine Cone
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Main zip on 50s Penney’s
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2nd model, main zip on Reddi-Jac
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jchance

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High Notch repro
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Buzz Rickson repro, 2nd model, MA-1
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Real Mccoy’s repro, 2nd model
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jchance

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1st model, main zip on wool leather Test
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2nd model, main zip on Alaska Sleeping Bag Co.
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2nd model, main zip on wool
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Main zip on Red Circle
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jchance

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2nd model, main zip on B-9 by Reed Products Inc.
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Same B-9 jacket in navy with USAF label
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2nd model, main zip on vintage? N-2 by Reed Products Inc.
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2nd model, multiple zippers on vintage?
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jchance

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IMG_3360.jpeg


A-2 J.A. Dubow ac-20960 (1st model, M40 or M41) and ac-23379, 1st model, M41. Below is M41.
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A-2, Rough Wear ac-23380, 1st model, M41
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A-2, Bronco Mfg. Corp. ac-29191, 1st model, M41 and M42
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1st model in vintage USAF A-4 jumpsuit
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