Can anyone comment on the fit of this vintage wall overcoat I picked up?

[Sirkrimzon]

I was inspired to purchase this coat after seeing some of the older longer overcoats that men in the mid-century wore.


This is a vintage wool made in US coat I picked up from eBay. I like the look of some of the oversized longer coats from brands like fear of God but I obviously don’t want to spend thousands. This was about $70.

I think a slightly oversized long coat is more versatile than a slim one imo. I think it can look elegant with a chunky fisherman sweater, baseball cap, and some straight fit denim and boots but also look nice over a suit. Others may disagree. Excuse the shoes and pants, this is not how I would wear it. I would wear fuller pants and obviously not Birkenstocks.

How does this long coat fit? Going for a somewhat oversized look. I’ve included a picture Here that has me pulling at the back to show how it would look more taken in which I don’t love but open to hear everyone’s thoughts

 

[jchance]

2-3 sizes too big. Shoulder is too wide, the sleeve is a bit long, but most obvious is how long the length of the coat is over your knees, almost touching your feet. The length needs to be chopped at least 7 inches.

 

[Sirkrimzon]

The shoulder is 19 inches which is my shoulder measurement. The tips of the shoulder of the jacket are touching the corner of my shoulder. I do have to take in the sleeves. If 7 inches of the coat are removed it will hit my knees, which is not how a classic long overcoat fits.

 

[jchance]

The shoulder is 19 inches which is my shoulder measurement. The tips of the shoulder of the jacket are touching the corner of my shoulder. I do have to take in the sleeves. If 7 inches of the coat are removed it will hit my knees, which is not how a classic long overcoat fits.

Can you show me a fit pic of how a classic long overcoat should fit on a model? You and I may have very different ideas of how this kind of overcoat fits.

Generally this works better on a tall, skinny dude. Idk your height, but the third pic makes it look like you mistakenly grabbed your grandpa’s coat. Maybe length could work if the coat is aggressively tapered, but it’s not.

Even if the shoulder measurement looks like it should fit perfectly, it doesn’t in this case if the jacket is too wide and you can’t close the coat in a normal way. That’s an oversized shoulder look, you’d need to size down.

 

[Bennarion]

It's too big for you. You should look for another coat that fits you

 

[baldipino]

Hello!

Most late 40's-mid 50's indeed have the "sack suit" trend, though in my memory the shoulders on long coats from that era had a bit more rounding to them. The shoulders on your coat remind me of more of a 30's vibe (with which I am in love) given their sharpness. Tailoring the waist a bit would go a long way toward giving you a more "V" silhouette. If that's what you're going for.

I agree the length of the sleeves need shortening; it would change the shape somewhat, most likely for the better. If it were me, I'd take up the hem to about 3-5 inches below the knee; that way, one still sees a substantial enough pant leg to offset the visual length of the coat. Aesthetically speaking, too long of a coat flirts with Goth/Matrix territory or the dreaded 'Cousin It" look. You seem to have a way better vibe than that!

You know the 3rd Pic down? The silhouette of the arm not holding the phone appears to show a slight bulge that appears to be your arm. That's a good thing! I think a smidgen narrower would still give you the wide look you're looking for AND give a little love to your ***s, visually speaking. Keep us posted on your next move!

 

[MadCat]

youre swimming in it..

 

[TartuWolf]

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/fit-check-thread-for-jackets.114927/

 

[Monitor]

Size, perhaps size and a half too large. Silhouette looks good. This must go comfortably over everything you intend to wear so fitted look is illogical.

 

[Sirkrimzon]

Can you show me a fit pic of how a classic long overcoat should fit on a model? You and I may have very different ideas of how this kind of overcoat fits.

Generally this works better on a tall, skinny dude. Idk your height, but the third pic makes it look like you mistakenly grabbed your grandpa’s coat. Maybe length could work if the coat is aggressively tapered, but it’s not.

Even if the shoulder measurement looks like it should fit perfectly, it doesn’t in this case if the jacket is too wide and you can’t close the coat in a normal way. That’s an oversized shoulder look, you’d need to size down.

 

[baldipino]

Nice! As you no doubt have noticed, the shoulders, while sharp, have roundness just below the top of the shoulder, though the bottom right model is a bit much. The bottom hems on each one is just below the knee.
Merely out of curiosity, do you know the approximate date of the ad? It's really cool.

 

[Sirkrimzon]

Nice! As you no doubt have noticed, the shoulders, while sharp, have roundness just below the top of the shoulder, though the bottom right model is a bit much. The bottom hems on each one is just below the knee.
Merely out of curiosity, do you know the approximate date of the ad? It's really cool.

Thank you. And I unfortunately do not. It was from a guy on Instagram called Elliot Dupree

 

[Zoro]

do you know the approximate date of the ad?

As per reverse image search, 1930s.

 

[jchance]

Ok, I was googling “Fear of God overcoat” and have a better understanding of the look you’re going for.

The oversized coat needs to have short sleeve length to show your full hand size. It also needs to have less buttons (you can remove the unused buttons); buttons provide the coat with specific definitions/breaks and you wouldn't want that; you want a continuous drape of fabric. And the coat needs to be worn with baggy clothes underneath, shown instead of hidden. Without the underlying outfit peaking through, it’s just an unfitted coat. It should be worn as if you’re always putting your hands in your pants’ pocket.

It’s like with leather jacket—when the jacket fits, it looks really good. But when it doesn’t fit, there are so many issues with it. With this oversized coat, the margin of error is really slim. Learning how to style it is most of the battle.

 

[Sirkrimzon]

Ok, I was googling “Fear of God overcoat” and have a better understanding of the look you’re going for.

The oversized coat needs to have short sleeve length to show your full hand size. It also needs to have less buttons (you can remove the unused buttons); buttons provide the coat with specific definitions/breaks and you wouldn't want that; you want a continuous drape of fabric. And the coat needs to be worn with baggy clothes underneath, shown instead of hidden. Without the underlying outfit peaking through, it’s just an unfitted coat. It should be worn as if you’re always putting your hands in your pants’ pocket.

It’s like with leather jacket—when the jacket fits, it looks really good. But when it doesn’t fit, there are so many issues with it. With this oversized coat, the margin of error is really slim. Learning how to style it is most of the battle.

I appreciate your thoughts. I think I’m going to take it to the tailor, shorten the sleeves, the length a few inches, and maybe take it in a hair. I don’t want to be restricted with what type of outfits I wear with this. Kind of want it to be my one and done winter outerwear (I also have a vintage G-1) I will rotate with this