Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[WolfofStateSt]

The coat is too big for you. You need to go at least one size down to a 34. A size 32 might fit you better, but they are almost impossible to find. Hang on to this one, and when you fill out, it will fit you. Don't have it tailored. Leave it the way it is.

What is your actual chest measurement in inches? Not the jacket size you normally wear, but your chest measurement as explained in the guide. This is the first step in determining what size peacoat you need.

I agree with Peacoat. That coat is too big for you.

 

[Bolex]

Thanks Jagg. I got in in the UK from a seller on flea bay, we’d been chatting for a while about it before I decided to go for it. From the pics it’s in remarkable condition but I am a bit worried about the size, it’s a 42, as Mr. Peacoat says, as the P2P measurements are 22” but the shoulders are 20” across according to the images. The previous owner must have been a silverback or something! The only way to find out is to get my hands on it and try it out. The seller has been superb and agreed to accept a return if it is too big. Annoyingly, I’m in London all week and the coat has been delivered already to my house in Norfolk. I won’t see it until Friday…

Im in yarmouth norfolk and looking for a ex navy peacoat im a size 38 chest

 

[Bfd70]

5’10 165# 33x15.5 dress shirt 39” chest
This is with a light layer under.

 

[Kfz]

Hi : Anyone have experience of repairing peacoat lining that is splitting apart? Thanks

 

[Bolex]

So i just bout a ww2 peacoat advertised as a size 19 inch pit to pit in beautiful condition but its too tight for me i can do the buttons up i measured pit to put as 20 inches so better fit fir a 36 inch chest i would say i am a 38 inch correction got someone else to measure me and im a 39 inch chest! iv been going the gym chest have been hitting the weights the last year which showed in my upper body bulking i can see what people mean though about the quality of these it does not look like its 80 years old apart from sone small holes in the lining near the collar beautiful cordrey pockets i am gutted so going forward im unsure if i should be looking for a 40 inch chest ?

 

[Gamma68]

I don't have a size 38 peacoat in my collection. I believe @Gamma68 used to have one and may still.

Sold it long ago.

 

[Peacoat]

So i just bout a ww2 peacoat advertised as a size 19 inch pit to pit in beautiful condition but its too tight for me i can do the buttons up i measured pit to put as 20 inches so better fit fir a 36 inch chest i would say i am a 38 inch correction got someone else to measure me and im a 39 inch chest! iv been going the gym chest have been hitting the weights the last year which showed in my upper body bulking i can see what people mean though about the quality of these it does not look like its 80 years old apart from sone small holes in the lining near the collar beautiful cordrey pockets i am gutted so going forward im unsure if i should be looking for a 40 inch chest ?

P2P of 19" is the standard measurement for a size 34 peacoat. A p2p of 20" is the standard measurement for a size 36 peacoat.

With a chest of 39", you should be able to wear a size 40 peacoat (p2p of 21.25") with room to layer a sweater. A size 38 peacoat (p2p of 20.25) should give you a more fitted coat. I would start with a size 40 and see how that works for you.

A hint on terminology: When discussing the measurements of peacoats, we speak in terms of the p2p measurement only. We don't use the measurement around the coat.

We never refer to our chest in terms of p2p. We use the actual measurement around the chest.

 

[spoonbelly1950]

And I have seen this statement quoted by those who advocate Melton as the superior fabric. My question then, as it is today, exactly what type of fabric were they referring to as "Kersey" and what period of time was this? Don't believe everything you read on the internet. There is a lot of misinformation out there. And a lot of it is subject to misinterpretation.

Those of us who have actually handled the two fabrics should be more credible than an anonymous source on the internet.

Let us not forget that Kersey has a superior appearance over Melton. These US Navy Peacoats certainly look quite sharp!!! Melton looks good but it ain't in the same class as Kersey.

 

[spoonbelly1950]

is actually a this is the peacoat thread, I assume you are asking about Navy peacoats.

Mostly the coats were true to the size stated on the tag. Occasionally there were anomalies, which is why I suggest getting accurate measurements from the seller. It does not vary by manufacturer.

The actual measurement of one's chest is the first step. Not the jacket size one usually wears, but the actual measurement of the chest.

For example if one's chest measures 38", then a size 38 peacoat should give a relaxed fit sufficient for layering a sweater underneath. A size 36 peacoat should give a fitted look without room for comfortable layering.

For details, see the Guides Section.

I have a 1969 Kersey coat which has a tag that states it is " 44L " (Long). It is actually a 46L. It fits the same as my other 8 size 46 peacoats.

 

[Peacoat]

Sold it long ago.

My memory of your peacoat lasted longer than your peacoat itself lasted.

 

[JackieL]

Hello everyone,
After searching thrift stores for a real USN pea coat for 15 years, I believe I have finally found one. At first, I thought it was a 1970s Kersey but now I’m not so sure. It is a very dark blue but at times, it looks black. Haven’t been able to take it outside to compare it to a black pair of shoes because it’s been raining for days. Inside, it looks black at times and other times looks dark blue. There are no tags-only a remnant of the edges of the front tag. There is a partial handwritten number on the lower right of that tag area. It has no insulation. Pockets are an off white, smooth cotton.

The buttons are pewter. It has only one button remaining on the second row. I took it off and sewed it to the right side button line to replace one missing button. I moved all the buttons over because it felt tight. I could get it buttoned up but it was very tight. However, I moved them too far. The asymmetry will be off when I find buttons to restore the second row. So I need to redo that.
The inside left front has a black plastic button which fastens the inside right flap. The flap that fits up against your chest.

By reading on this forum, I have been hoping to find a Kersey wool but would be very happy to find a melton coat.
I can’t post pictures yet because this is my first post. Pit to pit is a little under 20”.

I have purchase civilian pea coats in the last 10 years- a 90% wool American Eagle and an 80% wool Michael Kors. it looks darker than those. The wool on the Navy pea cot feels thicker than the other two coats. It also feels a little coarser.

I hope it is a 1970s US Navy kersey but could be a 1980s melton. I am not knowledgeable enough to know the difference since I have never for certain seen a kersey wool coat in person. The wool is in very good condition with no holes. Lining had some holes which I sewed up.

I will post pics as soon as I can. Is the interior plastic button a normal thing with the pewter outside buttons? Fingers crossed it is a real Navy pea coat. Got it for $4.50.

 

[Peacoat]

Welcome to the Lounge.

Yes, the black inside button is normal.

Your description of the color as being dark blue, but sometimes looking black is normal for a pre 1980 Kersey. When you can get it outside and compare with the black shorts, you will know for sure.

You actually can stand by a south facing window and make the comparison without going outside.

The description of the wool as being rough sounds more like Melton. The Kersey shell is smooth, almost like a velvet finish.

But whichever it is, it may be too small for you from your description of the fit.

Keep us updated. PC

 

[spoonbelly1950]

Welcome to the Lounge.

Yes, the black inside button is normal.

Your description of the color as being dark blue, but sometimes looking black is normal for a pre 1980 Kersey. When you can get it outside and compare with the black shorts, you will know for sure.

You actually can stand by a south facing window and make the comparison without going outside.

The description of the wool as being rough sounds more like Melton. The Kersey shell is smooth, almost like a velvet finish.
have
But whichever it is, it may be too small for you from your description of the fit.

Keep us updated. PC

Melton coats have a vertical pocket opening on the right side of the front of the coat in between the second and third buttons. Inside the coat and inside that pocket is the tag which has the coats information, Melton coats do not have a full length inside nylon liningng.

 

[JackieL]

Thanks for the info and the welcome.

Mine has a pocket on the inside right. Horizontal opening. No tag inside the pocket. A tag had been sewn on the outside of that inside pocket.
The lining inside the coat is full length.

 

[Peacoat]

I think the vertical opening Spoon is referring to is the hand warmer pocket. I checked two of my Meltons, and neither has a tag inside that pocket. Both have the tag on the inside vest pocket (horizontal) on the right side.

Every post 1979 Melton coat I have seen has a thin insulated liner between the outer shell and the inside nylon lining. Don't know if the pre-1980 Melton coats have this liner.

I believe that years ago, a poster said that he had a pre–1980 coat that had a midnight blue Melton. That injects an anomaly in the logic tree.

So, for jackets without a tag: If the shell is black and it has a thin liner between the shell and the inner nylon lining, it is a post 1979 coat, and it is Melton.

 

[spoonbelly1950]

Thanks for the info and the welcome.

Mine has a pocket on the inside right. Horizontal opening. No tag inside the pocket. A tag had been sewn on the outside of that inside pocket.
The lining inside the coat is full length.

Thanks for the info and the welcome.

Mine has a pocket on the inside right. Horizontal opening. No tag inside the pocket. A tag had been sewn on the outside of that inside pocket.
The lining inside the coat is full length.

I could be wrong but it sounds like it's a Kersey.

 

[JackieL]

I have been wearing it outside, sitting on the porch with my dog and going to the mailbox while a very cold wind is blowing. There is zero wind penetration' and the cost is warm with only a t-shirt-flannel shirt on underneath.

On the lining holes I sewed up-I could see there is definitely not a thin insulation liner between the outer wool and inner nylon lining. Some of the holes were high to mid back and were big enough to let me easily see the wool shell.

 

[Peacoat]

I have been wearing it outside, sitting on the porch with my dog and going to the mailbox while a very cold wind is blowing. There is zero wind penetration' and the cost is warm with only a t-shirt-flannel shirt on underneath.

On the lining holes I sewed up-I could see there is definitely not a thin insulation liner between the outer wool and inner nylon lining. Some of the holes were high to mid back and were big enough to let me easily see the wool shell.

That's a good sign that you can see no liner. If the liner were there, you would also be able to feel it between the shell and the inner nylon liner.

 

[JackieL]

That's a good sign that you can see no liner. If the liner were there, you would also be able to feel it between the shell and the inner nylon liner.

 

[JackieL]

Peacoat is on the left. Known black wrist brace is on the right. Sorry about the Australian Shepherd hair!