The Cap Faction

[Brother cavefish]

A stunning study by Edward Hopper, courtesy of Patrick Segui over at Cap Department.

View attachment 16375

nice, since you make hat this would go sweetly in your work room

 

[Fastuni]

Nice photo of a herringbone cap´s back - worn with a short leather jacket. Leipzig 1928-1932.

Click to enlarge:



Source: http://www.deutschefotothek.de/documents/obj/71229418

 

[Stuffsmith]

Nice photo of a herringbone cap´s back - worn with a short leather jacket. Leipzig 1928-1932.

Nice! And I love the fabric of his pants too...

 

[Stuffsmith]

Just finished today... 'Le Couteau' 1920s style pleated-top cap made with 1940s lightweight kimono wool, 1950s kimono silk liner, leather visor and full leather sweatband, 1920s blued-steel buttons. This one'll get heavy rotation; it goes with almost everything I own!

 

[dh66]

Great work! It's great to see these old patterns brought back to life. The buttons are a nice touch.

 

[herringbonekid]

great cap Stuffsmith.

i've noticed that most of the cap makers use a zig-zag stitch to attach the leather band. it seems to be the traditional way... but is there a practical reason ?

 

[1mach1]

Wow! Nice work, Keith. I like everything about that one.

 

[Stuffsmith]

Thanks boyz!

HBK, I can only guess as to why the zigzag stitch is the main one: strength. A straight stitch is essentially a perforated line, and with leather that can spell trouble when it starts to get worn and dried out a bit. Just my guess...

 

[Two Types]

Great stuff!!!!!

 

[simonc]

Quality work SS

 

[RJR]

Wow Keith,very nice!

 

[Simonds]

From my experience the zig zag stitch prevents the edge of the leather from curling as it does with a straight stitch and giving the sweatband a more comfortable feel without the use of a reed.

 

[hatsRme]

Exquisite!

 

[ManofKent]

Lovely work Keith

 

[mikespens]

That's a whole lotta pleats Keith, well done!

 

[alanfgag]

ditto to the kudos!

 

[herringbonekid]

From my experience the zig zag stitch prevents the edge of the leather from curling as it does with a straight stitch and giving the sweatband a more comfortable feel without the use of a reed.

of course... edge curl. makes sense. thanks Barry !

 

[Fastuni]

Yet the most comfortable and stable way would be to stitch the sweatband straightly on the reverse and fold it over. The sweatband has to be soft/thin enough for this, of course.
Also prevents edge curl.

I had several cases of Zig-Zag stitches tearing on the front (on vintage caps/hats).

 

[Simonds]

Yet the most comfortable and stable way would be to stitch the sweatband straightly on the reverse and fold it over. The sweatband has to be soft/thin enough for this, of course.
Also prevents edge curl.

I had several cases of Zig-Zag stitches tearing on the front (on vintage caps/hats).

Leather will eventually cause cotton thread to rot and break. I have seen crusher caps with this type of folded sweatband installation.

 

[Stuffsmith]

Fastuni/Simonds - either of you have images of the technique you're referring to?