Who's Who in the A-1 jacket world?

[Ole K. Vik]

Gentlemen! I am a newbie in the game and have mostly been lurking around on the forum. Now I need some help in figuring out who's who in the world of producers of the A-1 jackets. My question is: Which producers are in the elite divisjon when it comes to quality and authenticity of the A-1 flight jacket? So far I have identified a few producers but have a hard time navigating in design, leather quality and quality of production:
The real Mccoy's
Freewheelers
Eastman leather Company (ELC)
Buzz Rickson's
Good Wear leather coat Company (GWL)
Lost Worlds
Aero Leathers
Your input is much appreciated!

 

[handymike]

Eastman makes a great looking one too!
The best looking IMO is the Goodwear in capeskin owned by @Worf

but if I were to buy one it would be the Real McCoys in dark seal Shinki horsehide with olive knits- love that one.

 

[Peacoat]

I'm no expert in the A-1, don't even own one, but I think any of the makers you mentioned would turn out a quality product.

Welcome to the Lounge. PC

 

[dudewuttheheck]

If you want a capeskin one, I would go with Good Wear or Eastman. If you want a stiffer leather like horsehide/cowhide, go with The Real McCoys. My Aero A-1 was a disaster in terms of pattern. They did not change the pattern to compensate for the stiffer leather like McCoys does and it fit horrendously as a result. Aero makes nice jackets, but I would avoid that one.

 

[Ole K. Vik]

Thanks for your input! Could you please extrapolate a bit on the leathers? I am not too familiar with capeskin... While i know that horsehide will age beautifully, how would that be with capeskin?

 

[Seb Lucas]

Thanks for your input! Could you please extrapolate a bit on the leathers? I am not too familiar with capeskin... While i know that horsehide will age beautifully, how would that be with capeskin?

All good hide at that price will age beautifully. Capeskin is light hide and less robust but accurate for an A1 which is really a kind of light windbreaker. I personally would not want horse in an A1. Goat perhaps. For me it is Eastman if you want a great one now. Goodwear if you want best example of artisanal craft and are happy to wait 3 years.

 

[handymike]

have you read this:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...he-ultimate-golden-era-flying-accessory.1493/

 

[Dr H]

I’ve owned multiple copies of the A-1 from Eastman, Good Wear, and Bill Kelso. They all have their strengths and weaknesses, as you might imagine, and it depends what you're seeking (i.e. whether accuracy matters to you).
For accuracy to pattern, the Eastman is probably to closet as it’s patterned from a Gordon & Ferguson jacket, but even then it has been lengthened slightly to suit modern tastes/belt position and the collar isn’t quite right as it sits low at the back. This is something that most manufacturers get wrong (John Chapman and Bill Kelso have a better pattern) - I opened up my old Eastman .50 cal A-1 and replaced the collar with one that I patterned from a Good Wear jacket and was much happier with the result.
I've examined, but haven’t owned the Buzz, Real McCoys, and Freewheelers offerings (John Lever has an Eastman, Real McCoys, and a Freewheelers 37J1 - the USN version with the high pockets) and as you'd expect the worksmanship is extremely high indeed. Where capeskin is used it's comparatively tough, elastic, and of the right weight. Occasionally, Real McCoys use horsehide or goatskin (and there is a great Freewheelers A-1 in the classifieds in deerskin at the moment) - they're not correct for the issued Type A-1 jacket, but there are plenty of examples of period 1930s buttoned windcheater 'A-1' jackets in those hides. So, if you just want a buttoned windcheater then those hides will work if they aren't too thick/stiff/heavy. John (CBI) showed a budget 5* A-1 in horsehide recently and this looks very good in this hide.
Of the half a dozen Good Wear A-1s that I've had over the years, two or three were from the same batch of hide as Worf's jacket and it's a very good match for a McGregor Sportswear (Doniger) civilian M-422 from the 1940s that I owned around the same time. Having said that, the stitching on those jackets was hampered by the lack of a button hole machine (and were hand cut/hand stitched) so they were a bit rough around the edges. With the Reece machine and many (many) more jackets under his belt, John's A-1 would be an excellent choice in the right hide.
Sadly, the hide shown on Worf's jacket is no longer available and, for me, the Good Wear jackets that were produced just after that (I owned several) time were let down by the hide. I believe that John's latest capeskin looks very good.
Headwind also offer a comparatively accurate A-1/37J1 as well, if Jay is still trading.
I don't think that you'll go wrong with any of the options mentioned.
One piece of advice though, as with all jackets, the A-1 looks best if it's a bit worn so don't be too precious about it. For me, the best A-1 that I have seen (my .50 cal was a close second) is John Lever's paint spattered Eastman, creased, stained, and scraped.

 

[Ole K. Vik]

Wow, you guys! Thank you so much for all this fantastic information! I will dive into this rabbit hole Even furter and follow your leads and tips. Awesome!

 

[Bonefish Jim]

5 Star makes a nice A-1 in Goat that is a great value

 

[CBI]

Yep - Dr. H is the A-1 Doc around here and he covered it well.

At this point, as a rec, I would do a 5 Star in goat. its really an excellent jacket and close enough while not spending an arm and a leg. In an ideal world, Good Wear if you don't mind the wait.

I have owned A-1's from The Few, Good Wear (2), Eastman (3), Headwind and currently 5 Star.

 

[Imuricecreamman]

Don't forget @Dav capeskin A-1. Possibly my favorite of all I've seen.

 

[bn1966]

Loving my Eastman A-1, didn’t rate the A-1 when I first saw one but it held a certain curiosity for me. Visited ELC to add to my A-2 collection, saw an A-1 in the flesh again, tried it on and left having ordered one.
The Cape is tougher than some think and drapes beautifully. My top summer jacket and better for the odd mark (& these do mark easily).

 

[Ole K. Vik]

Impressed by the knowledge and willingness to share! I am leaning towards going for an ELC A-1 for now. I love how the Real Mccoy's A-1 looks and the leather looks stunning, but it seems to be quite boxy and short... or am I wrong? I won't be able to try it on due to geography, so it would be a big leap of faith...
When it comes to GW, I really want to put in an order for a GW A-2 and sit back and wait for that for a year or two. My argument for this wouls be quality and historical accuracy of the GWs A-2 production. I guess this would be for a different thread, but any tips as to a fitted model of the GW. My understanding is that the GW Bronco in horse hide would be a fairly slim and classic jacket. Any oppinions? So many beautiful models to choose from there!

 

[CBI]

for quality and authenticity, etc. Good Wear is THE choice, hands down. ELC has really upped their game but if you don't mind the wait, get in the cue for a Good Wear

 

[nick123]

I’d go Eastman in this case, but opt for the Time Worn finish (it’s more grainy). Also, doesn’t hurt to shoot an email to John at GW and see if he has an A-1 on sale in your size.

 

[John Lever]

Unlike Ian I am no expert on history patterns etc but have owned very early Goodwear(10 years ago) Lost Worlds, Aero, Freewheelers, Real Mccoys and Eastman.
All were horse apart from the Eastman.
The pattern works well with thin pliable skins that are easy to button up.
My battered ELC A1 is a real one off I doubt there is another one like it.
Why ?
I bought from a sight impaired seller who wore it every day for 2 years. The arms are very scraped and wrinkled and the whole jacket has a great patina.

 

[John Lever]

 

[handymike]

This is how it needs to be!!!
Fantastic jacket John!

 

[John Lever]

Sorry about duplicate images, it was directly from my mobile