Marc mndt
I'll Lock Up
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It's not too big, it's a weirdly shaped pattern.
It's not too big, it's a weirdly shaped pattern.
Both are dyed all the way through but unlike full aniline semi-aniline has a small amount of pigment added to the dye which makes the color more uniform. I don't think there's any difference in durability.Btw, do you have any opinions on aniline vs semi-aniline? I was always under the impression that semi meant sacrificing some beauty and aging for more durability.
It might just be me but I personally do not see the out of this world nicer than nice leather. I've handled this one at one of their stockist, the leather looked shiny but the color looked rather flat. I've also visited their Tokyo store but I don't remember their leather to stand out in one way or another.I visited TFH store in Tokyo, their Shinki leather was the most beautiful I had ever seen. It was softer than any other horsehide I had ever felt, including Shinki from other brands.
To my untrained eyes they both have very Japanes issues.
Start with that and then goes on to demonstrate a very very trained eye. Dropping absolute truth bombs.
I think even the ‘Japanese body’ explanation that fans of this cut throw out doesn’t hold, being Asian and having spent much of my life there. To suit the A-shaped cut from Fine Creek (or even the Japanese versions of western makers like Lewis), you would have to be simultaneously very weak and small in the upper body, but then have a big beer belly. I think it is purely a fad pushed by Lightning magazine.
In the case of Fine Creek, you’d need to be 6’4 with a 36” chest and a 42” waist! Someone posted a jacket here recently and it genuinely looked worse than a fashion jacket from Zara or H&M, from the saggy bag shape to the completely limp lapels; the leather looked like pleather, even though I’m sure it’s technically some expensive Shinki. Tbh the Zara types probably have a better pattern.
As I mentioned in another thread, a slim Japanese friend in Tokyo was talked into getting the Japanese “Tight” fit by Lewis, instead of the classic Lewis fit, and now he’s stuck with a baggy bottom block he’s had to find a leather tailor to correct.
I don't think it's useful to talk about one brands leather with a big brush.
BTW I have owned the dead leaf freewheelers too and while it was a beautiful leather I prefer the fc hides to it as well.
It doesn't excuse everything, but there is definitely a difference in shoulder width between the average Japanese man and the average American and that has to have an influence on pattern differences:
Definitely. But what I mean is while that would explain, say, RMC sizing it wouldn’t explain the FCL A-cut.
Agreed, that's why i also mentioned Japanese fashion aesthetics, i think it's a combination of the two.
I think these shapes are more recent in Japanese leather brands, when we first started talking about Japanese brands 10 years ago it wasn't that common.
I might be wrong, but i don't remember seeing these overly long baggy jackets when we first started seeing RMC and Freewheelers jackets for example. It's only in most recent years with Fine Creek, Addict clothing and all these more recent brands that these weird shapes started appearing.
When i think of Japanese fashion i think oversized and straight lines, maybe these modern brands where trying to fit the current Japanese aesthetics more, compared to the old brands that where more Americana and where going for reproductions rather than modern interpretations.
I mean to me these jackets are the same vibe as these suits:
Fc is more consistent with a specific style of HH for their brand altho they are branching out lately too with more finely grained stuff.Except for 'the fc hides' I guess?