Which A2 would fit me best?

[Xopher]

Ive been looking at A2s a bit and would like to get something fairly nice, but Im having trouble figuring out which patterns would fit my body shape the best. I never really notice the difference between them in pictures on like, but from what I hear that depending on the patterns and contracts they can either look horribly stupid on you or fantastic. So if you folks have any suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it.

My body type seems to be a bit top heavy. I think I may have very broad shoulders and large biceps compared to most other men my size. Im 5'7'' 195 lbs and wear size 34 jeans. I measured my chest with a tshirt on and its about 42 inches on the button. Whenever I wear jackets I usually have to wear a size 44 to fit my shoulder width or else I cant move and even then its a little snug across the back with my arms forward, but I just hate the extra baggy room in the chest and stomach area of size 44+ jackets.

I was looking at Rough Wear A2s and from what I can tell those are the ones with the baggy stomach room that Im trying to avoid, if Im right in assuming that is a characteristic of that pattern.

Some of the descriptions of jackets on the Good Wear site seem a tad ambiguous in that people have different standards for "athletic" bodies. I doubt I could call myself an athletic build but I do look like I work for a living.

I like the early war contracts with the collar stand but from what I understand is that they are very slender and have narrow shoulders around 19 inches or less and I think mine may be closer to 20.5 or 21. I think it just comes down to me needing the advice of those who really know their A2s. Thank you folks

 

[atomjet58]

I have a Cooper size 46 with 22 inch shoulders. A size 44 or 42 should be around 21 inches.
Coopers seem to have wider shoulders than other makes.
I also have a Gibson Barnes size 42 with 20 inch shoulders.

 

[andyfalzon]

Xopher hi,
You should get a Dubow A-2

Andy
www.billkelsomfg.com

 

[Dr H]

I'm a recent covert to the Dubow pattern (I have recently bought an older GW 27798 from 2010 in horsehide with dull purple knits) having tried many vintage and GW Perry patterns in goatskin and horsehide, GW Acme (Aero) and Doniger (goat). I love the Perry pattern but it's a little short for my torso and I've gone off the collar stand, the Doniger is almost perfect (wide shoulders, long torso, roomy sleeves and looks superb aside from the angular pocket flaps) but it's quite a snug torso. The Dubow combines all of those features: wide shoulders, roomy and longer torso, wider armholes and neat detailing around the collar (not quite as pointed as the Doniger and no collar stand) and pockets (similar profile to the Perry and some Roughwears).

The Dubow is likely to be the one that I keep now as it feels so comfortable to wear and in this case the horsehide is very flexible and mismatched in grain.

Give a Dubow a try...

 

[aswatland]

The most roomy pattern was the Cable 27753. It has "large wide shoulders, large arm holes, roomy arms, and a roomy body". Good Wear do an excellent reproduction.

http://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/a2_27753.html

 

[Xopher]

After looking at the Dubow A2s a bit, Id have to say they do seem to look more crisp than other patterns for some reason. I think I'll do that one. If you had to pick between the two, would you choose Bill Kelso or Lost Worlds? Those look like the two companies in my price range. Unless there are others I dont know of that would be around $1000 or less. Thanks all.

 

[kasa7]

Hi Xopher, if you choose US Authentic, try the 42R (24" pit-to-pit, and 20" shoulder-to-shoulder)

 

[Foster]

My wife has a Lost Worlds Dubow. It is well made, but the details are not WWII authentic (later zipper, pocket snaps not correct, minor stuff most people would never notice).
Personally, I dislike the way the Dubow collar is cut straight. At the back of the neck, it is narrow. That rules out the Dubow jackets for me, but it's my pure biased opinion. Your opinion may vary, so go with what you like.

 

[TXFlyGuy]

Bottom line is any one of them will fit if ordered correctly. Make it easy on yourself! Call Gibson & Barnes. Great customer service, and great jackets. Absolutely love my A-2. Can you spend more money? Of course. But you have reached the point of diminishing returns.

My G&B Civil A-2 is a 42R. It is not too big! Feels nearly perfect. And I am a 40, or 42 R. It is perfect in length as well as sleeve length. Good fit in the shoulder also. The jacket is flawless, and I will put it up against any jacket, from any manufacturer, any day. Some may like a different color, or goatskin vs. cowhide vs. lamb vs. chrome vs. vegetarian...OMG, give me a break!

 

[zhz]

After looking at the Dubow A2s a bit, Id have to say they do seem to look more crisp than other patterns for some reason. I think I'll do that one. If you had to pick between the two, would you choose Bill Kelso or Lost Worlds? Those look like the two companies in my price range. Unless there are others I dont know of that would be around $1000 or less. Thanks all.

I agree with Foster, LW's repro isn't as accurate as BK, I vote for BK. Also, Andy is a very nice guy to talk to. It is also worth to point out that the leather LW use is thicker than BK and is chrome tanned. It is hard to say this is a good or bad thing.

 

[MightyEighth]

I agree with Foster, LW's repro isn't as accurate as BK, I vote for BK. Also, Andy is a very nice guy to talk to. It is also worth to point out that the leather LW use is thicker than BK and is chrome tanned. It is hard to say this is a good or bad thing.

Agree, and BK will tailor the jacket for you anyway. Just give Andy your dimensions, tell him how you want it to fit, and you're sorted.

 

[thor]

One big advantage to chrome-tanned horsehide in general (and LW in particular) is that rain just beads right off. I've had my LW A-2 out in torrential rain and was as dry as if wearing Gore-Tex.
Not sure about the vegetable-tanned hides though; I've heard mixed reviews about their water resistance.

 

[zhz]

One big advantage to chrome-tanned horsehide in general (and LW in particular) is that rain just beads right off. I've had my LW A-2 out in torrential rain and was as dry as if wearing Gore-Tex.
Not sure about the vegetable-tanned hides though; I've heard mixed reviews about their water resistance.

I think v-tanned hh will absorb water and the shape will change? I cant remember where I learned this so NOT sure about it.
But, as Andy pointed in another thread, (c vs v tanned thread), the v-tanned leather has better quality than c-tanned in general, and more expensive.

 

[andyfalzon]

Vegetable tanning takes a lot longer, but the end result is usually a heavier, stronger and more water-resistant leather. It wears well and tends to be better at holding its shape.

source: http://horsetalk.co.nz/2012/10/23/hide-and-seek-how-to-identify-quality-leather/#axzz2w3ZSbH5d

Vegetable tanned leather also starts out much more rigid than chromium tanned. It’s got a life, and shape, of it’s own. This makes it ideal for my purpose, since I can construct something like a leather wine tote that will hold it’s shape without using anything other than leather. There are different thicknesses (referred to as the “ounces”) that veg-tan leather comes in so I have the flexibility to choose the the leather that will work best for the project given the end weight I want to achieve, and how stiff or flexible it needs to be.

Veg-tan does soften up quickly once you start using it and you get that nice, worn-in, leather look and feel. Chrome-tan doesn’t seem to change much, other than scuffing and wearing.

I am particularly fond of this picture of two boots (from Blue Owl Workshop), the one in the front using chrome-tan and the one in the back using veg-tan, both with the same color dye, at least in theory:

The one in the back has that old, worn in, vintagey satisfying look to it where it’s not entirely even. The one in the front just looks like a boot. With age, that one in the back will just look more and more lovely, too.

source: http://moxieandoliver.blogspot.gr/2012/08/what-is-this-vegetable-tanned-leather.html

 

[kasa7]

I really don't like this fit

 

[Flash]

I agree. But I think that wouldn´t be so bad if there are no handwarmer pockets at the jacket.

 

[schitzo]

afternoon chaps, any advice on which A2 would best suit a tall and skinny frame? Lately I'm starting to look at them in a new light. Mainly to blame I'd say are BK's facebook postings

 

[rocketeer]

source: http://horsetalk.co.nz/2012/10/23/hide-and-seek-how-to-identify-quality-leather/#axzz2w3ZSbH5d

Now that link is interesting, thanks for posting.

Now you have really opened a bag o worms.
Who will be the first to query where the local abattoir or knackers yard is so they can source older hide. Then of course there is the approach from the lot that want there hides from 'Free range horses'(or cows, or goats). I can almost hear someone querying that they want their hide from free running horses that have never been saddled and are dying of old age fresh from the Badlands of Montana, or even sheepskin from a Scottish hillside tended by a 90 year old shepherd.

(Apologies if my geographic knowledge of the USA is somewhat questionable but you get the idea)

 

[rocketeer]

afternoon chaps, any advice on which A2 would best suit a tall and skinny frame? Lately I'm starting to look at them in a new light. Mainly to blame I'd say are BK's facebook postings

Personally, being UK based I would contact a dealer if you wish to buy new, and ask a few simple questions about length and general fit. Make some arrangement about returns postage as you may be able to do a deal if you still buy but have to return.
Though if you think you are an awkward shape dont dive in with custom sizing without talking to the manufacturer first. My first A2 was made by Ken Calder of Aero, he looked at me, too some basic measurements and a few weeks later I had a jacket that fitted perfectly.
Or why not pop along to a militaria show of airshow, you may be able to try something on, then it may have saved you a ton of money, you may be minus a ton of money if you find something you like. Ether way you could have a great day out.
JTeee

 

[thor]

afternoon chaps, any advice on which A2 would best suit a tall and skinny frame? Lately I'm starting to look at them in a new light. Mainly to blame I'd say are BK's facebook postings

Hi Schitzo, check out the new Eastman "slender-fit" A-2; it's a seal brown A-2 cut with a narrower sleeve and torso for a trimmer fit. Looks great on the ELC website.