When should you go MTM/bespoke for a leather jacket?

[aorange]

I've seen the sentiment on this forum that generally it's best to stick to Ready-to-wear (RTW) if possible for your body type, and I was wondering if it's time for me to step outside of that framework and get something custom made.

I have a 19" shoulder bone to bone (more if I include the delt), a 39.5" chest, a 30.5" waist at the belly button, and a 32" hip measured at the top of the hip bone. Thankfully, from a length perspective, I'm ok with a 24-25" sleeve and body length if I'm looking for a modern cut that fits at the hip bone.

Some common challenges I have are that my shoulder measurement usually corresponds to a 44, which is way too big on my chest, waist, and hip. It ends up looking like a big smock. Even for brands that are narrower on the chest, a 21.5 P2P or so, the waist and hip is still way too big.

The one brand I've found that fits generally well is Flat Head, and I'm quite satisfied with the jacket (HW004) I have from them. However, even for that jacket, I could probably take 2-3 inches off the waist and hip, and they do run longer than I'd like for that style.

For my next jacket I'm looking for either a straight zip daily driver that hits at the hip, or a moto jacket that hits higher at the waist. I'd prefer something in seal or light brown Shinki HH, having tried a few other leather types which didn't spark as much joy. I don't ride and this jacket would purely be for fashion purposes.

Where does this leave me? Are there any RTW brands that do a 9" drop? If I should go bespoke or MTM, who would be some good makers to look into first? I'm pretty flexible on the budget and live in Seattle.

 

[AeroFan_07]

I've seen the sentiment on this forum that generally it's best to stick to Ready-to-wear (RTW) if possible for your body type, and I was wondering if it's time for me to step outside of that framework and get something custom made.

I have a 19" shoulder bone to bone (more if I include the delt), a 39.5" chest, a 30.5" waist at the belly button, and a 32" hip measured at the top of the hip bone. Thankfully, from a length perspective, I'm ok with a 24-25" sleeve and body length if I'm looking for a modern cut that fits at the hip bone.

Some common challenges I have are that my shoulder measurement usually corresponds to a 44, which is way too big on my chest, waist, and hip. It ends up looking like a big smock. Even for brands that are narrower on the chest, a 21.5 P2P or so, the waist and hip is still way too big.

The one brand I've found that fits generally well is Flat Head, and I'm quite satisfied with the jacket (HW004) I have from them. However, even for that jacket, I could probably take 2-3 inches off the waist and hip, and they do run longer than I'd like for that style.

For my next jacket I'm looking for either a straight zip daily driver that hits at the hip, or a moto jacket that hits higher at the waist. I'd prefer something in seal or light brown Shinki HH, having tried a few other leather types which didn't spark as much joy. I don't ride and this jacket would purely be for fashion purposes.

Where does this leave me? Are there any RTW brands that do a 9" drop? If I should go bespoke or MTM, who would be some good makers to look into first? I'm pretty flexible on the budget and live in Seattle.

If you're in Seattle, just reach out to Carrie at Thurston Brothers, she could probably meet you in person and help you really nail the fit and anything Vanson, Aero or Theidi.

Or a little drive to Langlitz in Portland and they will size you up (and you can check out their stock sizes & pre-owned items too). But made to measure there is 12-months wait.

 

[aorange]

If you're in Seattle, just reach out to Carrie at Thurston Brothers, she could probably meet you in person and help you really nail the fit and anything Vanson, Aero or Theidi.

Or a little drive to Langlitz in Portland and they will size you up (and you can check out their stock sizes & pre-owned items too). But made to measure there is 12-months wait.

I’ve looked into getting something through Thurston Brothers before, but couldn’t figure out how to get an in person visit in. I heard the store burned down a while ago, and they only interact if you commit to an order.

As is, I’m a bit uncertain on what I’d want from Aero, since I’m not a fan of any of their leathers, even though I quite like their designs.

With Thedi, I like a few of their designs, but they all look quite long. I also am unsure on how their leathers feel — it’s unclear to me from their site which tannery they source from.

At the end of the day I would prefer something in Shinki, so I suppose for MTM that’d leave me with Himel, Good Wear, or FL?

 

[AeroFan_07]

Just reach out to her via her website - email is best. Indicate you are right there in Seattle nearby.
https://www.thurston-bros.com/

Also, their physical location didn't actually burn down, but the gas explosion was very close by and shook the building partially off its foundation. Fortunately, they were not there and did not lose products. I went to their physical store in 2014 & 2015 while visiting Seattle.

Have you ever handled "Shinki" leather (and of course that's a brand name - tannery) they have many types of leather, but the two jackets I've tried with it left me cold, it just was not what I was looking for. Just my $0.02 - your preferences may indeed differ!

 

[aorange]

Just reach out to her via her website - email is best. Indicate you are right there in Seattle nearby.
https://www.thurston-bros.com/

Also, their physical location didn't actually burn down, but the gas explosion was very close by and shook the building partially off its foundation. Fortunately, they were not there and did not lose products. I went to their physical store in 2014 & 2015 while visiting Seattle.

Have you ever handled "Shinki" leather (and of course that's a brand name - tannery) they have many types of leather, but the two jackets I've tried with it left me cold, it just was not what I was looking for. Just my $0.02 - your preferences may indeed differ!

I’ll give it a shot, maybe I’ll change my mind on the leathers if I see it in person.

For Aero, I’ve owned their jerky HH, goatskin, and vicenza before. I’ve owned other items in CXL/pinnacle HH/and badalassi before. Perhaps the only leather I have no data on there is the unfinished HH which could be promising but natural hides in Seattle is always tough. For Thedi, like I said, no experience whatsoever.

For Shinki I’ve handled their oil finish and pigment finish — I’m aware it’s a tannery with all sorts of offerings from Shell to even Steer (in fact I have a pair of Shinki shell boots). I’ve also tried on the Shinki from all the big Japanese makers, RC, RMC, TFH, FCL. I do notice that each of those makers pick their preferred hide characteristics, of which I prefer a smooth to medium grain high oil finish.

I’ve also tried some of the stuff from Lewis, Lost Worlds, Schott, and Y’2. After trying everything I realizing I still prefer a medium weight Shinki the most. I do enjoy wearing goat for my beater jacket though.

Thanks for the input though! I do appreciate other perspectives, which is why this place is so great.

 

[jacketjunkie]

I've seen the sentiment on this forum that generally it's best to stick to Ready-to-wear (RTW) if possible for your body type, and I was wondering if it's time for me to step outside of that framework and get something custom made.

I have a 19" shoulder bone to bone (more if I include the delt), a 39.5" chest, a 30.5" waist at the belly button, and a 32" hip measured at the top of the hip bone. Thankfully, from a length perspective, I'm ok with a 24-25" sleeve and body length if I'm looking for a modern cut that fits at the hip bone.

Some common challenges I have are that my shoulder measurement usually corresponds to a 44, which is way too big on my chest, waist, and hip. It ends up looking like a big smock. Even for brands that are narrower on the chest, a 21.5 P2P or so, the waist and hip is still way too big.

The one brand I've found that fits generally well is Flat Head, and I'm quite satisfied with the jacket (HW004) I have from them. However, even for that jacket, I could probably take 2-3 inches off the waist and hip, and they do run longer than I'd like for that style.

For my next jacket I'm looking for either a straight zip daily driver that hits at the hip, or a moto jacket that hits higher at the waist. I'd prefer something in seal or light brown Shinki HH, having tried a few other leather types which didn't spark as much joy. I don't ride and this jacket would purely be for fashion purposes.

Where does this leave me? Are there any RTW brands that do a 9" drop? If I should go bespoke or MTM, who would be some good makers to look into first? I'm pretty flexible on the budget and live in Seattle.

For a shorter Moto jacket that hits higher at the waist, you should contact Langlitz. Their patterns are very wide in the shoulders, insane taper down the waist, Incredible range of motion. Should be perfect for your body shape. Their basic leather is black steerhide but they do offer Shinki horsehide at a crazy upcharge.

Edit: If not Langlitz, Johnson Leather is your go to. Aero patterns wont cut it for you except the Cafe Racer and wearing that is a constant neck workout. Thedi patterns also aren't very big shoulder to waist drop.

 

[Jasonindenver]

Agree with checking in with Carrie for a consult on whether Aero or Thedi would better meet your needs.

I have bought both through her.

My Vincenza Aero is a wonderful leather. I love to feel it as I slip the jacket on. However, the fit is very restrictive for daily wear. This is more a function of Aero’s pattern than her measuring advice.

The custom Thedi I ordered through her is a freeekin dream. It graces my body and never feels like I am trying to wear it. It becomes a part of me. I will be buried in this jacket,

 

[aorange]

I sent Carrie an inquiry via email. Hopefully I can see some of those patterns in person.

@jacketjunkie you make a good point that even if they can tailor it, some patterns just dont support a 9” drop. In that regard I wonder if a 1930s half belt is just not meant for me.

 

[aorange]

I got a reply from Carrie, they're now 100% online, regardless of where you live. For leather samples, that's something they send after initiating the process and payment. Additionally, it seems that I wouldn't really be suited towards Thedi's patterns.

I also reached out to the folks at Good Wear. Apparently John has an administrative assistant who works for him now, and he got back to me within a reasonable amount of time. After looking at their photo gallery, I put in an order for the Arcadia and Mojave. Hopefully they'll get around to it by next year this time...but I'm not in much of a rush and will put in some more wear on my Flat Head in the meantime.

 

[Bfd70]

Wow. Great to hear GW got an assistant.