What do you think of this New Flat Head Leather Jacket

[red devil]

We will see what if anything Tenjin says. Just keeping my options open as I don’t want to regret what I choose.

Aero would be an option if I wanted another model besides the Board Racer which is known to be hit or miss, once I get this cafe racer thing out of my system they might have something else I like, I surely won’t be stuck with a no refund situation for wanting to try on a jacket. Sleeves can be shortened, waist can be tapered, length can be altered but if the size that will fit my chest and shoulders doesn’t sit right on me then I don’t want to be stuck with it. I can see why they have the policy because they don’t want slot of mailing back and forth with people returning them since they are a small company, it’s not like they are Macy’s.
If I was tall and thin then the board racer would probably fit, it fits perfectly on some.

It may very well be Johnson, you don’t really hear anything bad about the way they fit. I exchanged emails with them about alterations and they are quick responders and were very knowledgeable and helpful though I decided to sell that Himel just because it was to big on too many measurements, generally meant for a tall person

If you decide to order a CR from JL, you might want to go full custom with a mock up. They have a pattern maker in the team who will adjust based on the mock up,.

On a personal note, I am curious to see what you will be looking at once you have the CR out of the way. Cross zips are a lot of fun

 

[Damon141]

Just FYI, I think you're mixing up Aero's cafe racer (which some, though not all, people have had a creasing issue with) with their board racer (Buco J-100), which pretty much fits everyone perfectly as long as the size is right (easy if you go through Thurston). Likewise the cross-zip that has the same pattern as the board racer (Ridley) doesn't have that issue even on people who had the cafe racer creases.

I can’t find the thread but someone was talking about the pattern causing these wrinkles around the collar which was caused by the way it sits on the neck instead of the shoulders. Maybe someone that has had the problem will see this and explain better than I am.
I’ll put some pictures below that shows.
I guess I just know myself and that if I’m not happy with it then I’ll end up selling it and like CanukPanda pointed out the $1,200-1,500 jackets loose value rather fast, especially custom just because of the sizing and jackets like Freewheelers hold their value. That’s kind of why I originally started this thread HOPING that I could find an off the rack jacket jacket that fit me and would keep its value incase I wanted to change it up down the road and not loose too much. So I know it got all twisted that I was obsessed with Japanese brands, and though I do think many take a design and add subtle touches like I mentioned but also a big advantage to only certain Japanese brands, Freewheelers and maybe RMC, they hold their value and I could have a variety from time to time. Where as my Fields I hope fit so good I will keep them until I’m so old and fat that I am bursting out of them.


See around the neck.

 

[Damon141]

If you decide to order a CR from JL, you might want to go full custom with a mock up. They have a pattern maker in the team who will adjust based on the mock up,.

On a personal note, I am curious to see what you will be looking at once you have the CR out of the way. Cross zips are a lot of fun

I love the cross zips but I just feel/worried like they are too bold for my style. My wife hates them thinking they look like old man jackets. I show her so many different ones and it’s always the same.
My favorite cross zip is the durable one star and modern one would be the Himel Nipssing, which is really not so flashy and if I could do button cuffs instead of the zippers, it almost has a dressy appearance.

 

[MrProper]

Likewise the cross-zip that has the same pattern as the board racer (Ridley) doesn't have that issue even on people who had the cafe racer creases.

If the Board Racer and the slim fit motorcycle jacket (Ridley) have the same pattern, I will definitely consider a Board Racer. Because my Ridley is pretty comfortable and fits well I think (and has no wrinkle )

 

[Marc mndt]

@Damon141 the example you showed doesn't have the 'hang by the neck' issue. If anything it has a slightly too tight chest. Otherwise it looks like a perfect fit.

 

[Aloysius]

I can’t find the thread but someone was talking about the pattern causing these wrinkles around the collar which was caused by the way it sits on the neck instead of the shoulders. Maybe someone that has had the problem will see this and explain better than I am.

It's the Cafe Racer you're thinking of. Mr Proper had this issue with the Cafe Racer, but his Ridley (Board Racer/Buco J-100 pattern) does not.

I love the cross zips but I just feel/worried like they are too bold for my style. My wife hates them thinking they look like old man jackets. I show her so many different ones and it’s always the same.

IMO all riding jackets can look like that. It just comes down to how you wear them. (The worst version is probably how it's become the female politician uniform in the US.) The ideal 'young guy' version of riding jackets is probably early Ramones photos, but old guys can pull it off too.

I think our subculture sometimes focuses a bit too much on riding jackets at the expense of some really cool designs, a bit like how diving watches have taken over wide swathes of watch culture. They're definitely cool, but lead to a lot of others being overlooked.

For instance, the US Navy jackets like the ANJ-3 (basically a G-1 without the fur collar) would look amazing on a V-shaped build. It's a much more flattering and complex jacket than the A-2.

 

[Carlos840]

You I think, about some political stuff. Then others rant about Stu from lost worlds, he is a target for many.
What do I care? I don’t know these people personally and never will.
Everyone is entitled to their opinions, that’s why I voiced mine about Goodwear which could save someone time and money knowing that they won’t get their jacket in the advertised year.

Just like my experience with Lewis Leather might help someone. That’s what these boards are for, opinions.

And if owners of these companies want to spout off political nonsense then people are entitled to say something.
Or not answer emails while they have your money then people should say something.

It’s when people run to defend these owners or companies because of their own experience while simultaneously disregarding yours, that’s called getting singled out.

I've never "attacked" Eastman, and i dont "basically attacks Himel, Bill Kelso, Eastman at every opportunity,".
I'd appreciate it if you stopped misrepresenting my words.

 

[red devil]

I love the cross zips but I just feel/worried like they are too bold for my style. My wife hates them thinking they look like old man jackets. I show her so many different ones and it’s always the same.
My favorite cross zip is the durable one star and modern one would be the Himel Nipssing, which is really not so flashy and if I could do button cuffs instead of the zippers, it almost has a dressy appearance.

You certainly have to feel comfortable wearing a jacket to pull it off.A lot of us here started one place and ended up wearing jackets we never thought we would.

 

[Edward]

For instance, the US Navy jackets like the ANJ-3 (basically a G-1 without the fur collar) would look amazing on a V-shaped build. It's a much more flattering and complex jacket than the A-2.

There are a lot of really cool milspec designs from the first half of the 20th Century that get barely any attention (not least the B2, not quite as warm as the B3, but way more elegant; I'm only aware of two brands that even repro it). It would seem that the main problem is they lack the glamour bestowed on them by wartime usage and/or a Steve Macqueen movie.

 

[Damon141]

@Damon141 the example you showed doesn't have the 'hang by the neck' issue. If anything it has a slightly too tight chest. Otherwise it looks like a perfect fit.

View attachment 428076

I had looked them up rather quick. That’s a pretty nice one. I have seen it before when it was mentioned that it wasn’t one of their easiest to fit patterns, I just don’t want to be one of those unlucky ones because Aero is rather expensive here in the US, maybe less expensive for people in Britain?

I know there is no perfect jacket for everyone but if I was going to go with thurston bros I would even likely choose a Thedi CR though it’s not my favorite either, I prefer no side panels.
Some of his other designs are far more interesting than his CR’s

 

[Damon141]

For instance, the US Navy jackets like the ANJ-3 (basically a G-1 without the fur collar) would look amazing on a V-shaped build. It's a much more flattering and complex jacket than the A-2.

you know I hated the flight jackets when I joined here, but kind of like a new car design you are not used to at first, they kind of grow on you. I will have my CR but I can picture myself wearing the one ANJ-3 you mentioned and I’d probably have an easier time finding one that fits just due to the relaxed fit.

 

[Marc mndt]

I know there is no perfect jacket for everyone but if I was going to go with thurston bros I would even likely choose a Thedi CR though it’s not my favorite either, I prefer no side panels.

Why not ask Theodoros whether he could make one for you without side panels.

 

[Edward]

you know I hated the flight jackets when I joined here, but kind of like a new car design you are not used to at first, they kind of grow on you. I will have my CR but I can picture myself wearing the one ANJ-3 you mentioned and I’d probably have an easier time finding one that fits just due to the relaxed fit.

You'll find that a lot. Before I landed on TFL fifteen years ago next month, I didn't care for bow ties other than for black/white tie evening wear, sheepskin flying jackets, grizzly jackets, mid-thigh length leather jackets, wide-leg jeans, my glasses..... probably a whole bunch of other stuff if I think about it enough. This place has a funny way of affecting us all like that....

[Insert They Live meme of your choice here ]

 

[Aloysius]

I have seen it before when it was mentioned that it wasn’t one of their easiest to fit patterns

It’s tricky in terms of getting the right size. Once you do, it’s easy. Thurston took out that guesswork for me.

 

[Peacoat]

It’s tricky in terms of getting the right size. Once you do, it’s easy. Thurston took out that guesswork for me.

Yes, by going through Carrie and Wade, their test jackets make it pretty much a foolproof process.

 

[Damon141]

Why not ask Theodoros whether he could make one for you without side panels.

I thought about that but didn’t want to offend him or even worse, end up with a terrible fit because I asked for something out of the ordinary.
Obviously I’m not going to get lucky and find an off the rack so if I want a jacket for this season I’m just going to have to choose something that might not be exactly what I want. To be honest though, as soon as whatever I choose arrives and fits properly, and has excellent workmanship, all that desire for something else will go out the window as we say. So in the end I could just live with the side panels knowing I finally have a great fit.

I’m not sure on his prices and if I should go direct rather than using Thurston as a middle man. I prefer to have direct contact with who I’m dealing with in any thing if I can.
I’m not fond of his washed and waxed look for a cafe racer, I wouldn’t want something he dyed himself. I would prefer horsehide but it might be cost prohibitive and I thought I read he uses Badalassi cowhide but I don’t know for sure.

Out of his model selection this black one looks best for me personally but I think this collar on the other picture looks better or should I say just what I’m used to seeing


For a custom fit with a faster turn around time there are not exactly a lot of options in this style. We need more bespoke jacket makers. For a build in under 6 months with interesting leather choices and custom sizing, we pretty much have Aero, Thedi, Simmons Bilt and Himel. I’m probably leaving out someone.

 

[Marc mndt]

I thought about that but didn’t want to offend him or even worse, end up with a terrible fit because I asked for something out of the ordinary.

I don't think theodoros will be offended. As long as you don't mention chrome tanned leathers.

If theodoros doesn't think he will nail the fit, he won't even try to make the jacket for you.

I’m not sure on his prices and if I should go direct rather than using Thurston as a middle man.

His prices for custom jacket are comparable to what Thurston charges. Great value actually, imo thedi is at the same level as Freewheelers (if not above).

I’m not fond of his washed and waxed look for a cafe racer, I wouldn’t want something he dyed himself.

You can get non-washed /waxed horsehide.

For a custom fit with a faster turn around time there are not exactly a lot of options in this style.

Thedi usually delivers within three months.

 

[Damon141]

If the Board Racer and the slim fit motorcycle jacket (Ridley) have the same pattern, I will definitely consider a Board Racer. Because my Ridley is pretty comfortable and fits well I think (and has no wrinkle ) View attachment 428048

I didn’t know that. Does yours have the same shoulder yoke?

I feel like you are one of those lucky guys that just rarely get a bad fit, even the inexpensive five stars look better than expensive jackets on most.
Tall, physically fit, and v shaped fit jackets so well. I’m not sure I’d have the same luck, it’s hard to say. I do feel like when I do own a perfect fitting jacket then I will have a base to go with for any future purchase and that’s why I took the plunge with the 1 year wait with Fields, I know that if it fits I can use those measurements for many others

 

[Damon141]

I don't think theodoros will be offended. As long as you don't mention chrome tanned leathers.

If theodoros doesn't think he will nail the fit, he won't even try to make the jacket for you.

His prices for custom jacket are comparable to what Thurston charges. Great value actually, imo thedi is at the same level as Freewheelers (if not above).

You can get non-washed /waxed horsehide.

View attachment 428102




Thedi usually delivers within three months.

That picture actually shows off his ability to achieve a perfect fit even if someone has a wider waist like I do at times. Which horsehide is that?
Is it a brand name that we might know like vincenza?
What’s the thought on potentially saving money with cowhide?

 

[red devil]

That picture actually shows off his ability to achieve a perfect fit even if someone has a wider waist like I do at times. Which horsehide is that?
Is it a brand name that we might know like vincenza?
What’s the thought on potentially saving money with cowhide?

One piece of advice I have been harping on about is not to be fixated in brands, especially when it comes to the leather when you trust the maker.

Theo has I don't know how many decades of working leather under his belt, you are better off telling him what characteristics you are looking for in a leather if you have any. Otherwise ask him what leather goes best with the style, I am sure he knows best what fits. Case in point this is cowhide. My only request was that the jacket be red with his signature treatment.