Wearing Vintage Shoes

[MondoFW]

I often drool over vintage shoes that are in good condition, but what stops me from buying a pair is the feeling that I'm exposing a piece of history to the elements, and it would be wasteful to submit a slick pair of spectators to the ground. Is it possible to cop a pair that's in great condition and keep them that way for a while? Perhaps specific methods of care? I sit in a classroom for most of the day nowadays, so I'm not doing anything too treacherous with my kicks. Would it be better to forget about buying a pair in amazing condition unless it's intended for display, and settle for a pair of just adequate beaters?

 

[Short Balding Guy]

Lot of opinions. At my house vintage shoes get gently worn. Shoes that do not get worn are distributed to others who can make good use and appreciate them.

I have posted many on the shoe and spectator threads of pics of the shoes out and about. Common sense rules with quality shoes apply. I do wear Swims, shoe protectors when I need to wear quality shoes (modern or vintage) in rain/snow. I treat them kindly during their adventures. Arriving home they get brushed and a rest with shoe trees. Shoe care regularly is my norm.

Not vintage, but I have a couple friends who have bespoke shoes. They cost many time more than most pricey vintage or many times more than my Cordovan Alden gunboats and they wear them frequently. They wear them proudly. Gently, but walk all over, travel with them and even wear them in real Minnesota weather. The shoes with care do great. All leather shoes crease and the soles wear. All top creases are earned patina, heels replaced and the soles, when they reach the magical point, can be re-soled. A re-sole on a pair of bespoke shoes is not cheap nor speedy. In any case, you get the idea - wear the shoes and truly enjoy them. If you not a member, join and read the Style Forum to see pics and hear folks wearing their grand shoes in real life. I enjoy seeing the shoes of dreams out and about.

My very special vintage shoes are not worn weekly, but for special occasions. My 1st world problem is I have choice between shoes. I choose not to have "beater" shoes to wear in public. A few cared for special shoes, to me, are more worthy than a whole shoe rack of "beater" shoes. I recall my Grandfather telling me that I should strive for quality over quantity in selecting attire. Taking care of your "kit" is a demonstration of personal respect and class.


I hope I have assisted to your query whether to wear vintage shoes or not.
Best, Eric -

 

[Canadian]

Mondo. I have found your posts to be inspiring and they make me think.

I have spectator shoes dating from some time ago, and a pair in red/white leather which are repros. Unfortunately as I wear a size 13W I don't typically have the option of buying vintage shoes.

I choose to buy the best shoes I can afford, with new shoes taking priority over cheap shoes which are inexpensive. I learned my lesson by plunking down some serious cash for a pair of AE Sandfords which were "Only worn a couple of times". I wore the shoes to a dance and when I got home, I realized there were some serious tears in the heel.

Are you exposing something which has historical value? History is the culmination of the past with an eye for the future. Don't think of it as destroying the past, think of it as a legacy you're carrying on. And really, a pair of shoes dating from 1945 is hardly old in the grand scheme of things, it's not like you're wearing Wellington's boots or Nazi jackboots. In that case sure they belong in a museum, but in my family, it's common to wear something till it falls apart, not to take old stuff, put them in a closet and look at them fondly, thinking, "I envy the man who wore these shoes. They're so old".

Shoes do not belong in a museum if they are wearable. Your feet are all the museum it needs.

 

[MondoFW]

Lot of opinions. At my house vintage shoes get gently worn. Shoes that do not get worn are distributed to others who can make good use and appreciate them.

I have posted many on the shoe and spectator threads of pics of the shoes out and about. Common sense rules with quality shoes apply. I do wear Swims, shoe protectors when I need to wear quality shoes (modern or vintage) out and about. I treat them kindly during their adventures. Arriving home they get brushed and a rest with shoe trees. Shoe care regularly is my norm.

Not vintage, but I have a couple friends who have bespoke shoes. They cost many time more than most pricey vintage or many times more than my Cordovan Alden gunboats and they wear them frequently. They wear them proudly. Gently, but walk all over, travel with them and even wear them in real Minnesota weather. The shoes with care do great. All leather shoes crease and the soles wear. All top creases are earned patina, heels replaced and the soles, when they reach the magical point, can be re-soled. A re-sole on a pair of bespoke shoes is not cheap nor speedy. In any case, you get the idea - wear the shoes and truly enjoy them. If you not a member, join and read the Style Forum to see pics and hear folks wearing their grand shoes in real life. I enjoy seeing the shoes of dreams out and about.

My very special vintage shoes are not worn weekly, but for special occasions. My 1st world problem is I have choice between shoes. I choose not to have "beater" shoes to wear in public. A few cared for special shoes, to me, are more worthy than a whole shoe rack of "beater" shoes. I recall my Grandfather telling me that I should strive for quality over quantity in selecting attire. Taking care of your "kit" is a demonstration of personal respect and class.


I hope I have assisted to your query whether to wear vintage shoes or not.
Best, Eric -

Your grandfather had the right idea with that statement. It's wonderful to hear that you're taking care of your kicks, and I have been inspired by you in particular to seek them (your photos in the How to Wear White Bucks thread exhibited how stylish these shoes can be). Thanks for sharing.

Mondo. I have found your posts to be inspiring and they make me think.

I think all my posts on this forum have been expressing gripes and questionable queries.

I suppose your viewpoint makes sense. They're just normal, 70-year-old shoes, not ones with widely recognized historical value. Besides, $200 can either get me your average boring black leather oxfords at a mall or deadstock 30's/40's shoes. Hmmm. Thanks for your input, Canadian.

 

[Short Balding Guy]

Your grandfather had the right idea with that statement. It's wonderful to hear that you're taking care of your kicks, and I have been inspired by you in particular to seek them (your photos in the How to Wear White Bucks thread exhibited how stylish these shoes can be). Thanks for sharing.



I think all my posts on this forum have been expressing gripes and questionable queries.

I suppose your viewpoint makes sense. They're just normal, 70-year-old shoes, not ones with widely recognized historical value. Besides, $200 can either get me your average boring black leather oxfords at a mall or deadstock 30's/40's shoes. Hmmm. Thanks for your input, Canadian.

You are welcome sir. Best to you in your hunt for the right pairs of shoes. Eric -

 

[Canadian]

Mondo, what condition are the shoes in? In my case, I find that the cork beds tend to be somewhat worn out in older shoes. I had several pairs of old bespoke shoes which almost fit me being passed on to me during high school. I wore the heck out of them, but at the end of the day, I just wanted to put on a pair of casual sneakers because the shoes were already fitted to somebody else's foot. Recrafting is an option, but that can be expensive.

My advice is to keep an eye on Ebay and see if there are any new shoes which are exciting to you. I bought those red/white spectators for about 30 dollars plus shipping. I understand shipping point to point in the USA is cheaper than international shipping to Canada.

For shoes, go spend the 200 dollars on some black oxfords. Get two pair. Preferably a good brand (AE, Alden, Church, Trickers, E&G) which you can often find on sale. I like, for cheap shoes, Rockports and Clark's desert boots. Once you've got some beater, everyday shoes, then consider buying fancy shoes you'd wear once in a while.

And yes it's inspiring to see a younger fellow into something like vintage. Just take care of the regular stuff before you start specializing. But yes, shoes are the most important thing to buy.

 

[LuvMyMan]

I often drool over vintage shoes that are in good condition, but what stops me from buying a pair is the feeling that I'm exposing a piece of history to the elements, and it would be wasteful to submit a slick pair of spectators to the ground. Is it possible to cop a pair that's in great condition and keep them that way for a while? Perhaps specific methods of care? I sit in a classroom for most of the day nowadays, so I'm not doing anything too treacherous with my kicks. Would it be better to forget about buying a pair in amazing condition unless it's intended for display, and settle for a pair of just adequate beaters?

You can wear vintage, get a few nice pairs and rotate wearing them. When you first obtain the shoes, do a few things to them right off before you start wearing them.

Clean the inside of the shoes with a spray disinfectant, or use a wash clothe with a very light amount of water and rubbing alcohol (basically just damp) and then use some saddle soap on any leather (not on any suede) when dry then soak them up for a few days with some very good leather conditioner...something thin works best so it can soak into the leather. Let the leather have a good chance to soak in the conditioner to rejuvenate it and it will add life to the shoes. Let the shoes sit and dry after soaking a few days then buff them off and apply some cream shoe polish, buff that and then a wax for shine. Use the conditioner on the inside of the shoes also...they need it as the inside of the shoe will help absorb the conditioner into the leather. I do this all to even new shoes....conditioner is very worth while to do on leather boots and shoes. Also always use shoe trees on your shoes. Taking care of your vintage shoes will make them last a very long time. Both myself and my husband have shoes from the late 1930's and they look fairly new and I have one pair of shoes (high fashion lace ups) from 1918.

 

[MondoFW]

Mondo, what condition are the shoes in? In my case, I find that the cork beds tend to be somewhat worn out in older shoes. I had several pairs of old bespoke shoes which almost fit me being passed on to me during high school. I wore the heck out of them, but at the end of the day, I just wanted to put on a pair of casual sneakers because the shoes were already fitted to somebody else's foot. Recrafting is an option, but that can be expensive.

My advice is to keep an eye on Ebay and see if there are any new shoes which are exciting to you. I bought those red/white spectators for about 30 dollars plus shipping. I understand shipping point to point in the USA is cheaper than international shipping to Canada.

For shoes, go spend the 200 dollars on some black oxfords. Get two pair. Preferably a good brand (AE, Alden, Church, Trickers, E&G) which you can often find on sale. I like, for cheap shoes, Rockports and Clark's desert boots. Once you've got some beater, everyday shoes, then consider buying fancy shoes you'd wear once in a while.

And yes it's inspiring to see a younger fellow into something like vintage. Just take care of the regular stuff before you start specializing. But yes, shoes are the most important thing to buy.

I've already got a cheap pair of wingtip oxford shoes I got from Macy's that I use daily. What Frank Zappa won't like is that they're brown. This is because with most of my outfits, brown shoes compliment it well, but if I obtained a navy or gray suit, I'd start prioritizing a black pair.

I'm looking at two pairs in mind, and it's one or the other if I have the chance to even cop a pair.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-An...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

https://www.etsy.com/listing/560342755/vintage-mens-quality-made-brown-and?ref=hp_rv

The reddish brown oxfords are obviously NOS. I don't know the exact term for the condition the spectators are in, but they appear in good shape. With my luck, both these shoes will be seized before I even make my decision.

You can wear vintage, get a few nice pairs and rotate wearing them. When you first obtain the shoes, do a few things to them right off before you start wearing them.

Clean the inside of the shoes with a spray disinfectant, or use a wash clothe with a very light amount of water and rubbing alcohol (basically just damp) and then use some saddle soap on any leather (not on any suede) when dry then soak them up for a few days with some very good leather conditioner...something thin works best so it can soak into the leather. Let the leather have a good chance to soak in the conditioner to rejuvenate it and it will add life to the shoes. Let the shoes sit and dry after soaking a few days then buff them off and apply some cream shoe polish, buff that and then a wax for shine. Use the conditioner on the inside of the shoes also...they need it as the inside of the shoe will help absorb the conditioner into the leather. I do this all to even new shoes....conditioner is very worth while to do on leather boots and shoes. Also always use shoe trees on your shoes. Taking care of your vintage shoes will make them last a very long time. Both myself and my husband have shoes from the late 1930's and they look fairly new and I have one pair of shoes (high fashion lace ups) from 1918.

Much appreciated advice, I'll be sure to see to that with future pairs I own! Curious as to what your 1918 shoes look like!

 

[LuvMyMan]

I've already got a cheap pair of wingtip oxford shoes I got from Macy's that I use daily. What Frank Zappa won't like is that they're brown. This is because with most of my outfits, brown shoes compliment it well, but if I obtained a navy or gray suit, I'd start prioritizing a black pair.

I'm looking at two pairs in mind, and it's one or the other if I have the chance to even cop a pair.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Antique-1930s-Sundial-Cap-Toe-Oxford-Shoes-Mens-9-Dead-Stock-NOS-USA/222708901524?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

https://www.etsy.com/listing/560342755/vintage-mens-quality-made-brown-and?ref=hp_rv

The reddish brown oxfords are obviously NOS. I don't know the exact term for the condition the spectators are in, but they appear in good shape. With my luck, both these shoes will be seized before I even make my decision.


Much appreciated advice, I'll be sure to see to that with future pairs I own! Curious as to what your 1918 shoes look like!

Of the two pairs you give as an example of what you may be looking to buy, be careful on the real size of the shoes. Vintage shoes can run all over in sizing no matter what the size label may say. I would suggest you contact the seller and ask them to measure the inside of the shoe the best they can, then you need to do the same on a pair of shoes that fit you well to make sure the shoes will fit you and be careful also on how the width of the shoes are. The Spectator shoes are narrow and unless you wear a narrow shoe, those spectators are going to be very very tight on your foot if they do fit your length in sizing. The NOS shoes on eBay appear to be a bit wider and most likely would not be a problem as far as that goes.

Any older vintage shoes that have a rubber heel can have the rubber so dried out also that you need be careful the rubber is not going to "crumble" if worn. A fix for the rubber to help bring it back to life is careful soaking of just the heel part of the shoe in a clear liquid silicone, I have used a product that normally is used on automotive trim by Black Magic. I pour some on anything like a plastic lid that I can rest just the heel of the shoe in and leave it sit a few days to soak in. However if the rubber is already super dried out you will have to find a heel replacement. There is a point where there is no cure for dried out rubber that is ready to just crumble.

 

[MondoFW]

Of the two pairs you give as an example of what you may be looking to buy, be careful on the real size of the shoes. Vintage shoes can run all over in sizing no matter what the size label may say. I would suggest you contact the seller and ask them to measure the inside of the shoe the best they can, then you need to do the same on a pair of shoes that fit you well to make sure the shoes will fit you and be careful also on how the width of the shoes are. The Spectator shoes are narrow and unless you wear a narrow shoe, those spectators are going to be very very tight on your foot if they do fit your length in sizing. The NOS shoes on eBay appear to be a bit wider and most likely would not be a problem as far as that goes.

Any older vintage shoes that have a rubber heel can have the rubber so dried out also that you need be careful the rubber is not going to "crumble" if worn. A fix for the rubber to help bring it back to life is careful soaking of just the heel part of the shoe in a clear liquid silicone, I have used a product that normally is used on automotive trim by Black Magic. I pour some on anything like a plastic lid that I can rest just the heel of the shoe in and leave it sit a few days to soak in. However if the rubber is already super dried out you will have to find a heel replacement. There is a point where there is no cure for dried out rubber that is ready to just crumble.

I must admit, it's starting to sound like these are more trouble than they're worth. How much would cleaning and remedy stuff be??

 

[willyto]

I've already got a cheap pair of wingtip oxford shoes I got from Macy's that I use daily. What Frank Zappa won't like is that they're brown. This is because with most of my outfits, brown shoes compliment it well, but if I obtained a navy or gray suit, I'd start prioritizing a black pair.

I'm looking at two pairs in mind, and it's one or the other if I have the chance to even cop a pair.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Antique-1930s-Sundial-Cap-Toe-Oxford-Shoes-Mens-9-Dead-Stock-NOS-USA/222708901524?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

https://www.etsy.com/listing/560342755/vintage-mens-quality-made-brown-and?ref=hp_rv

The reddish brown oxfords are obviously NOS. I don't know the exact term for the condition the spectators are in, but they appear in good shape. With my luck, both these shoes will be seized before I even make my decision.


Much appreciated advice, I'll be sure to see to that with future pairs I own! Curious as to what your 1918 shoes look like!

The first pair has been there for a while. Do you want to know why? Because of this:

Those are not wearable and can't be fixed. Otherwise those shoes would have been long gone. You can't really tell from pictures if the leather is ready to crack or tear but the moment you see some signs of cracking and tears, specially in the heel area just don't bother. That's money down the drain that you won't get back.

I wear vintage shoes almost on a daily basis without any problem. If you take proper care with conditioners like Cadillac or Bick 4 and replace the heels you'll have shoes for a loong time. Major problem with vintage shoes is the stitching sometimes it will just fail, rot or break.

 

[Short Balding Guy]

I must admit, it's starting to sound like these are more trouble than they're worth. How much would cleaning and remedy stuff be??

How much? Varies all over the place. When purchasing vintage shoes (older than 60 years old) it can be a risk as the leather condition (dried/rotted/small micro tears), stiching condition, soles, heels, interior and other can all be issues.

A real life example of costs are the posts of the last 2 pairs of shoes I posted in the spectator thread. One pair is at the cobblers now with a protective Topy (like) sole being applied, new heals (the cobbler identified that the heels would crumble)and some inserts for the heel and replacement leather insoles. This is on top of the money spent on Cadilac conditioner, leather cleaner (Saphire) (to stip off old polish and wax layers), purchase of new Saphire cream (color match) and clear (Saphire) polish (for final shine). The original box I sent out to an archivist for work and the estimated cost was $50.00. The laces I cleaned with a gentle treatment of very small bit of Laudress (ph nuetral cleaner). Cobbler costs ,$100.00 estimated at time of consultation. Shoe trees - $20.00 (cedar supplied and modified by cobbler). Supplies cost, $50 estimated (they can be used for this and other pairs).

I recognize that wearing vintage shoes does not come with a guarantee that they will not suddenly self destruct, tear or have significant damage. I wear them gently and have been very happy in the past. If an occasion comes up that I need to select shoes that might have some dubious weather, dancing, long walks I select accordingly. Along with the risks come rewards. I just thoroughly enjoy wearing the "oldster" shoes. They are unique and have history. Not all the time folks notice, but I do not care as I like them. When they do, I share what they will appreciate. Check out the intro to Vinatge Shoe Addicts website as he shares why he likes vintage shoes; http://www.vintageshoesaddict.com . I think he captures the spirit well.

I advise do not stay away from vintage, just buy eyes wide open.

Best, Eric -

 

[MondoFW]

The first pair has been there for a while. Do you want to know why? Because of this:

Those are not wearable and can't be fixed. Otherwise those shoes would have been long gone. You can't really tell from pictures if the leather is ready to crack or tear but the moment you see some signs of cracking and tears, specially in the heel area just don't bother. That's money down the drain that you won't get back.

I wear vintage shoes almost on a daily basis without any problem. If you take proper care with conditioners like Cadillac or Bick 4 and replace the heels you'll have shoes for a loong time. Major problem with vintage shoes is the stitching sometimes it will just fail, rot or break.

My, my, thanks for this observation. I was wondering why these haven't already been swiped. It's funny because the seller uses "museum quality" to describe them.

I wonder why these babies haven't been sold yet:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/332499970962

Not mine, but it seems like a good deal.

What about the pair of etsy spectators, any discrepancies there?

 

[MondoFW]

How much? Varies all over the place. When purchasing vintage shoes (older than 60 years old) it can be a risk as the leather condition (dried/rotted/small micro tears), stiching condition, soles, heels, interior and other can all be issues.

Check out the intro to Vinatge Shoe Addicts website as he shares why he likes vintage shoes; http://www.vintageshoesaddict.com . I think he captures the spirit well.

I advise do not stay away from vintage, just buy eyes wide open.

Best, Eric -

They seem to have a diverse and colorful stock. Are they reputable? How do I go about making an exchange with them?

 

[tropicalbob]

To each his own, but I always like to see things being used for the purpose for which they were created, and shoes have only one purpose. Last week I heard a guy on an elevator say that he and his soon-to-be wife had decided they were going to decorate their future living room with books: "They just give such a warm feeling!" I had to remind myself about the penalties for physical assault.

 

[Short Balding Guy]

They seem to have a diverse and colorful stock. Are they reputable? How do I go about making an exchange with them?

MondoFW; I am not sure what you are asking. The Vintage Shoe Addict gets my highest rating of a reputable, passionate guy. A+ gentleman. Call him, contact him thru his published contact info - ask away. His knowledge is "king of the hill" in regards to vinatge shoes.

Patience as your continued search will be rewarded with finding the right vintage shoes. Chuckling tonight as I type this as I am reminded of the TV series Kung Fu were the main character, when a child (Kwai Chang Caine) , is frequently told "patience grasshopper." This aphormism is adopted from Taoism philosophy. It is important to recognize that the goal is not to be patient, but to pace yourself to the essance at hand. Embrace the search for the valued vintage shoes. Explore the search with more than one approach and a fullness. Take time to seek knowledge about the objective and to better understand the whys of the search.

Evidently my day has propelled me to a very philosophical point. Long and challenging day for me.

Best wishes, Eric -

 

[LuvMyMan]

The first pair has been there for a while. Do you want to know why? Because of this:

Those are not wearable and can't be fixed. Otherwise those shoes would have been long gone. You can't really tell from pictures if the leather is ready to crack or tear but the moment you see some signs of cracking and tears, specially in the heel area just don't bother. That's money down the drain that you won't get back.

I wear vintage shoes almost on a daily basis without any problem. If you take proper care with conditioners like Cadillac or Bick 4 and replace the heels you'll have shoes for a loong time. Major problem with vintage shoes is the stitching sometimes it will just fail, rot or break.

Yes indeed, those are in some sad shape, those splits will only get worse even if the leather is conditioned for a long time. Of course, those shoes would make a fairly decent set of book ends.....lol!

 

[LuvMyMan]

MondoFW; I am not sure what you are asking. The Vintage Shoe Addict gets my highest rating of a reputable, passionate guy. A+ gentleman. Call him, contact him thru his published contact info - ask away. His knowledge is "king of the hill" in regards to vinatge shoes.

Patience as your continued search will be rewarded with finding the right vintage shoes. Chuckling tonight as I type this as I am reminded of the TV series Kung Fu were the main character, when a child (Kwai Chang Caine) , is frequently told "patience grasshopper." This aphormism is adopted from Taoism philosophy. It is important to recognize that the goal is not to be patient, but to pace yourself to the essance at hand. Embrace the search for the valued vintage shoes. Explore the search with more than one approach and a fullness. Take time to seek knowledge about the objective and to better understand the whys of the search.

Evidently my day has propelled me to a very philosophical point. Long and challenging day for me.

Best wishes, Eric -

I agree, Cole is top of the ladder in information regarding vintage shoes and shoe history, and he has some super nice shoes for sale on eBay and can help find a pair if he knows a shoe size.

 

[LuvMyMan]

They seem to have a diverse and colorful stock. Are they reputable? How do I go about making an exchange with them?

Just do a google search on Vintage Shoe Addict and you will see his eBay store.....head there and you will be fine....

 

[green papaya]

old shoes could fall apart if you tried wearing them, the stitching breaks down the soles come apart, too old dry and stiff