Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

[Marc mndt]

Teaser of my unlabeled Phillips 66 HH Halfbelt. It’s exceeded expectations and was thrown on my porch in a box that looks like it must’ve held a hand grenade. The jacket is absolutely mint. As good as old jackets get. I owe this thread better pics and details and will oblige when the light is kind. This one is an absolute stunner. Glad I took the gamble.
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I've been refreshing this thread all day waiting for better pics of this beauty. Don't keep us waiting any longer

 

[tmitchell59]

These two are inbound to Buckeye AZ.
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with some help from @JMax in making a positive ID on this 2nd one
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Great listing of many cool jackets. I just caught up with all these postings.

This is the earliest edition of the iconic Windward. I have never seen one like this. I associate this label with the mid to late 40s. I also associate it with the maker California Sportswear Company.

The is the standard Windward which came in Horsehide and Steerhide. I have recently seen this style with a Hercules label.

This is the most common Windward 50s label, probably began around 1952.

 

[tmitchell59]

Can I hang with the big dogs now?

Now I finally understand what the fuzz is about. These are amazing.

Special thanks to @Monitor (there's an interesting story behind getting the Herc which I will tell later) and @JMax

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Don't stop now, there are more out there. now you need one with the Wool lining.

 

[tmitchell59]

I sold one very similar a few years back.

Very cool jacket!

 

[tmitchell59]

40’s Sears Hercules Horsehide
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1947 Sears catalog

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Lining and zipper tape are so pristine at first assumed they were redone but absolutely no new stitching, I believe them to be original.

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After reading the newer Leather Conditioner comparison thread, thought I’d try Skidmores, never again for me, leather still slightly tacky after 2 months, I’ll stick with my longtime standby Dr Jackson’s

Beautiful jacket! A favorite Hercules label that was short lived.

That is the original zipper for that era jacket.

 

[Marc mndt]

Funny detail on this steerhide Hercules. @JMax does yours have white leather lining on the inside of the the belt passant too?

 

[JMax]

Funny detail on this steerhide Hercules. @JMax does yours have white leather lining on the inside of the the belt passant too?

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Negative. Looks cool with the white hide.

 

[ton312]

I've been refreshing this thread all day waiting for better pics of this beauty. Don't keep us waiting any longer

Sadly the light in Chicago is just awful and only makes a very brief appearance! I have another one due today. Another unlabeled HH Halfbelt, unique design. Here’s a couple more shots. This weekend I’ll unload some decent ones of both jackets. This one rivals your Albert Richards, it may be even cleaner. It’s like a brand new jacket! Really nice HH too. Mid weight, thick and very soft.

 

[Marc mndt]

Sadly the light in Chicago is just awful and only makes a very brief appearance! I have another one due today. Another unlabeled HH Halfbelt, unique design. Here’s a couple more shots. This weekend I’ll unload some decent ones of both jackets. This one rivals your Albert Richards, it may be even cleaner. It’s like a brand new jacket! Really nice HH too. Mid weight, thick and very soft.
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It's perfect, absolutely perfect.

Those handwarmer pockets are placed really high, makes me think of the elmc californian.

 

[ton312]

It's perfect, absolutely perfect.

Those handwarmer pockets are placed really high, makes me think of the elmc californian.

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Pretty close actually. Little different angle. The Halfbelt is way up there too. I can’t pull it in very much. It’s closer to a pit to pit belt.

 

[Yamahana]

Funny detail on this steerhide Hercules. @JMax does yours have white leather lining on the inside of the the belt passant too?

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Appalachian vertical zip map pocket, some of the black from the belt has rubbed onto it

 

[JMax]

My other Herc is leather lined and then a piece of fabric on top.

 

[ton312]

Another no name old horse resurrection... Took a bit of elbow grease but nothing terribly severe. Fits a bit large on me. Surprisingly heavy, weighs 7lbs. Some wonky stitching.
Liner is heavy rayon, pocket bags are heavy white canvas. Unique pattern. 25” back with a 3” drop. Kind of sport jacket car coat mash up. Long sleeves for an oldie. Easy to wear.

 

[tmitchell59]

I have this same lining in my 2 vertical zips. Is it leather?

 

[tmitchell59]

Another no name old horse resurrection... Took a bit of elbow grease but nothing terribly severe. Fits a bit large on me. Surprisingly heavy, weighs 7lbs. Some wonky stitching.
Liner is heavy rayon, pocket bags are heavy white canvas. Unique pattern. 25” back with a 3” drop. Kind of sport jacket car coat mash up. Long sleeves for an oldie. Easy to wear.

7 pounds is way heavy for a vintage jacket! I've owned a few heavies in that range. I don't recognize a maker. The chest pocket flap is a nice detail. Half-belts can fit so different from one to the next, belt high, belt low.

 

[ton312]

Realized all my leather jackets are 50’s or older. Nary a post 50’s jacket in the bunch. One thing is for certain, I’ve got a decent collection of collars, if nothing else. Photo dump of the lot:

 

[Yamahana]

I have this same lining in my 2 vertical zips. Is it leather?

Yes it is leather

 

[JMax]

Realized all my leather jackets are 50’s or older. Nary a post 50’s jacket in the bunch. One thing is for certain, I’ve got a decent collection of collars, if nothing else. Photo dump of the lot:
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All are great, but the top three are spectacular. That Monarch.

 

[ton312]

I was disappointed with the feel of this Halfbelt after both the obernaufs oiling and the Urad waxing. I went atomic and let it soak for an hour. It’s not too often I find a vintage piece with these lengths so I’ll go to greater ones to revive it. Oiling it while damp and it’s soaking it up. Hopefully the end result is good.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Wait what just happened? Was this the same brown jacket on the top of the page? You dyed it black/seal too? As much as I like brown jackets I think this one looks a lot nicer in seal/black now.