Vintage Car Thread - Discussion and Parts Requests

[LizzieMaine]

Made it home safe and sound -- lights stayed lit, no other issues noted. I was pulling into the street and thinking "jeez, it's really straining." Got halfway home before I realized I'd started and come the whole way in 3rd gear. Go Mopar.

I did not, however, expect it to rain tonite -- but the vacuum wipers seem to be working quite well, or as well as they can work.

 

[Stanley Doble]

If it keeps blowing fuses it indicates a short circuit. Look for chafed or bare wires between the headlights and the dimmer switch or headlight switch especially under the hood.

 

[Stanley Doble]

Try this procedure for lubricating the wiper motor.

http://www.ply33.com/Repair/wiper

 

[jamespowers]

Made it home safe and sound -- lights stayed lit, no other issues noted. I was pulling into the street and thinking "jeez, it's really straining." Got halfway home before I realized I'd started and come the whole way in 3rd gear. Go Mopar.

I did not, however, expect it to rain tonite -- but the vacuum wipers seem to be working quite well, or as well as they can work.

Good to hear. Maybe the fuse was just old and ready to go anyway.
Vacuum wipers are interesting to say the least.

 

[Stanley Doble]

When they were new vacuum wipers worked well. Buick, Cadillac and Packard used them until the late 50s, American Motors until the early sixties.

The secret was they had a vacuum pump to prevent the wipers stalling on hills. You can buy a fuel pump with a built in vacuum pump for most old vehicles. One for a mid fifties Ford costs about $65 vs $15 for a single pump.

Another thing you can do is add a vacuum reservoir. Many cars have them for vacuum accessories. Fords and Lincolns use a tomato juice can. You could make your own by soldering a pipe to a can. I recommend an apple juice can, easier to wash out. Don't forget a one way valve. Not as good as a vacuum pump but will keep the wipers going a little longer, and doesn't cost much.

There are also electric vacuum pumps used on many late model cars and pickups. New ones $40 and up. Unfortunately all 12 volt negative ground. I did a web search and they do make 6 volt + ground vacuum pumps but I didn't look into cost, and capacity.

 

[LizzieMaine]

I think most of the problems with mine are linkage-related. When I went out to run some errands this morning the wipers didn't want to shut off -- turns out the lever from the dash knob that engages the linkage to open the valve to the vacuum motor had slipped out from between the prongs that hold it. Had to reach up under the dash and pull it back into position to get them to stop. The motor itself seems to work quite well, by vacuum motor standards, although the hoses could probably stand to be replaced at some point.

 

[Carl Miller]

My buddy Brandon called tonight because his '48 dodge was having some issues. It was only running on a few cylinders and wouldn't idle. A compression test showed cylinders 3&4 at 0 psi, so tomorrow I'll be pulling the cylinder head. Pictures to follow.

Happy thoughts and positive vibes are welcomed. I'm hoping for the best and he is preparing for the worst.

 

[AtomicEraTom]

Pulled the rear-end out of the '52 Ford today. Planned on replacing the Dana 80 with a Ford 9". The Dana has 5:56 gears, and the Ford 9" has 3:55 gears or something similar.

My brother said that he had gotten it for free from his girlfriend's dad and it had come out of a Bronco, what he failed to mention was that the Bronco was a Bronco II, so it was Wayyyyyy too narrow.

So, we were doing some thinking and thought maybe a Chevy pick-up rear-end would work, since they're plentiful around here. I came up with the idea of perhaps a Crown Vic rear-end, since they're highway geared, and we're trying to get good mileage out of it. Sure enough, right measurements, and they typically have something around 3:08 gears. Hopefully we can find one, as they junk the squad cars nearby and we can have it on the road soon!

 

[Carl Miller]

5.56:1 gears are horrible. My '59 has 8.43s so I know what its like screaming down the road in top gear at 45 mph. Post a picture of that '52!

 

[jamespowers]

5.56:1 gears are horrible. My '59 has 8.43s so I know what its like screaming down the road in top gear at 45 mph. Post a picture of that '52!

Geez, I thought my 57 truck with 4:11 gears was bad! You could go up a tree with that gearing.

 

[Carl Miller]

Geez, I thought my 57 truck with 4:11 gears was bad! You could go up a tree with that gearing.

Id kill for 4.11 gears.

Too be honest, 8.43 is in low range. High range is a much better 6.14:1.

I've even thought about adding a "brownie" to help get the rpm's down.

[video=youtube;iU3gZGUInd4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iU3gZGUInd4&list=UUh4lL6aDK3D3GdfbTruY2cw&index=6&feature=plcp[/video]

 

[AtomicEraTom]

Old pic of it from my Senior year of high school, not that the truck has changed much!

5.56:1 gears are horrible. My '59 has 8.43s so I know what its like screaming down the road in top gear at 45 mph. Post a picture of that '52!

And that Ford's a V8, but let's face it, at 96 HP or whatever they were rated in 1952, that engine's just not gonna accomplish much, speed-wise, especially with that stump-puller rear-end.

Geez, I thought my 57 truck with 4:11 gears was bad! You could go up a tree with that gearing.

 

[jamespowers]

Id kill for 4.11 gears.

Too be honest, 8.43 is in low range. High range is a much better 6.14:1.

I've even thought about adding a "brownie" to help get the rpm's down.

[video=youtube;iU3gZGUInd4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iU3gZGUInd4&list=UUh4lL6aDK3D3GdfbTruY2cw&index=6&feature=plcp[/video]

Geez, I would get cramps in my arm and leg with that much shifting. Changing the gears in the pumpkin seems to be a better idea.

 

[jamespowers]

Old pic of it from my Senior year of high school, not that the truck has changed much!



And that Ford's a V8, but let's face it, at 96 HP or whatever they were rated in 1952, that engine's just not gonna accomplish much, speed-wise, especially with that stump-puller rear-end.

My father had a similar one in yellow with chrome stacks coming up at the cab corners. It was a rust bucket and he got rid of it. I hope you don't have such problems.

 

[LizzieMaine]

A few Plodge pix -- borrowed camera, so excuse quality.

Got the radio installed this morning, and took a drive this afternoon with the ball game on. Solid comfort.

 

[Carl Miller]

Geez, I would get cramps in my arm and leg with that much shifting. Changing the gears in the pumpkin seems to be a better idea.

Im looking for a 10 lug rear axle out of a chevy topkick. 4.48 gears coupled to my new "double over" transmission will get it just about perfect.

 

[Stanley Doble]

My buddy Brandon called tonight because his '48 dodge was having some issues. It was only running on a few cylinders and wouldn't idle. A compression test showed cylinders 3&4 at 0 psi, so tomorrow I'll be pulling the cylinder head. Pictures to follow.

Happy thoughts and positive vibes are welcomed. I'm hoping for the best and he is preparing for the worst.

No compression in 3 and 4 usually indicates a blown head gasket. If that is the case, usually a new gasket is all that is called for. Remember to check the head is flat, and chase the bolt holes to get a true torque reading. Torque the head, torque it again after the engine is warmed up, check again after 100 miles and it should last forever.

 

[Stanley Doble]

Terrific pics Lizzie, very atmospheric with the old house and garage in the background. I hope you and your friends have some nice rides.

 

[jamespowers]

A few Plodge pix -- borrowed camera, so excuse quality.

Got the radio installed this morning, and took a drive this afternoon with the ball game on. Solid comfort.

She looks great! You certainly put a lot of elbow grease in there.
The radio is in glowing like a champ.

 

[Carl Miller]

No compression in 3 and 4 usually indicates a blown head gasket. If that is the case, usually a new gasket is all that is called for. Remember to check the head is flat, and chase the bolt holes to get a true torque reading. Torque the head, torque it again after the engine is warmed up, check again after 100 miles and it should last forever.

You, sir, win a prize. That is exactly what it was. Pics uploading now...